FG400 - foam vs. mf follow up

lane5515

lane5515

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I'm currently working on a 2014 GMC Sierra. After several test spots I found FG400 to have the right amount of cut for the job. I started with a Rupes Green pad and it finishes really nice with 6-8 section passes. I also tried a Meg's MF Cutting pad and it works great and with fewer section passes and I find it easier to use then the green Rupes pad...but the haze is significant compared to the foam pad. I planned on doing a second step with one of the following: SF4000, HD Adapt, Keramik or Blackfire SRC Finishing polish (will do test spots to determine best option). My question is this - is the time saved using a MF pad with FG400 going to cost me time during the second step due to the haze or will the second step polish finish just as well as following a first step foam pad?
 
How many fewer passes are you doing with the MF pad?
 
So then see if 2-3 passes with your polish of choice will remove the haze. If so then you will still be doing same amount of passes. And close to same amount of time.
 
StephenK said:
So then see if 2-3 passes with your polish of choice will remove the haze. If so then you will still be doing same amount of passes. And close to same amount of time.
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Good point. I'm also worried I won't get as nice of a finish with the haze left from the MF pad. I might be over thinking this but I want to proceed with the combination that will give me the best finish with the least amount of work.
 
That's why I cut with microfiber if I'm doing a two step.

(I always see if I can get away with foam first, if not I then go to microfiber)

It just saves time, don't be intimidated by the compound haze, it comes out really fast in the polishing step.

If your going to do a 2 step it doesn't really matter how good the first step finishes, as long as it's not ab normal bad marring, as long as you level all the defects.

The finishing step with get that out in a breeze.

Now if your planing for a one step that's a different story.

If you can get it done faster with microfiber do it, if I can get it near perfect with one buffing cycle, and would have to do 2 buffing cycles with foam to get the same results, I'm going microfiber Everytime , if I'm doing a 2 step.

It saves time, creates less heat and stress on the paint, pad machine and you.

Always remember to clean your pad on the fly every panel, for optimum results, especially microfiber!
 
Start with sf4000 then do another spot with SRC. Those I think will be best follow up
 
There shouldn't be any issues removing hazing from your first step with SF4000. It will not cost you anymore time on the polishing step to remove the hazing.

I know I can cut with the PE14, Hybrid Wool, and SC300 for my first step and polish out anything from my first step with the 3401, White Hybrid, and SF4000.
 
What I would like to humbly add is that sometimes I use a mf finishing pad for cutting.
Better finishing, though less cut.
I found it out by chance, got the wrong mf pad by mistake once, and worked well.
If the paint system is soft to medium, it works.
 
This

Joe@NextLevelDetail said:
don't be intimidated by the compound haze, it comes out really fast in the polishing step.
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Fibers are a form of abrasive, that's why you see micro-marring when you use a fiber pad with any dual action polisher on some paints.

When you use a fiber pad with a rotary buffer you get holograms and part of the culprit for the hologram scratches like the scratches caused by microfiber pads is because fibers are a form of abrasive.


:)
 
Mike@DedicatedPerfection said:
There shouldn't be any issues removing hazing from your first step with SF4000. It will not cost you anymore time on the polishing step to remove the hazing.

I know I can cut with the PE14, Hybrid Wool, and SC300 for my first step and polish out anything from my first step with the 3401, White Hybrid, and SF4000.
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Isn't Menz just the cats meow for how easily and quickly it works?
 
And all of them finish so well and are great to work getting there.
 
Myself and other detailers were just chatting last night on how modern compounds and modern hard clear coats finish so well theres no need to second step with a finishing polish and on test spots the finishing step didn't add anything. You can one step with compounds on hard clear coats now days.
 
Zubair said:
Myself and other detailers were just chatting last night on how modern compounds and modern hard clear coats finish so well theres no need to second step with a finishing polish and on test spots the finishing step didn't add anything. You can one step with compounds on hard clear coats now days.
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Which brings back what Mike Phillips said about abrasive technology being the key (and I agree 100%).
 
RPM_BR said:
Which brings back what Mike Phillips said about abrasive technology being the key (and I agree 100%).
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it also brings back the fact that paint has alot to do with they way products work. If it was not for the hard clears the abrasive technology would not be where it is
 
StephenK said:
it also brings back the fact that paint has alot to do with they way products work.

If it was not for the hard clears the abrasive technology would not be where it is
Click to expand...


But not all clearcoats a hard and you never know if a paint is hard, soft or somewhere in-between until you do a Test Spot or two.

So the paint polishing process starts with what touches the paint and that comes down to the abrasive technology. Just my opinion of course.


:)
 
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