Final coating questions - Gyeon Mohs

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boostedmoose003

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This weekend I'll be tackling my car and applying Gyeon Mohs. I have a few quick final questions. As for application on the Gyeon, it states to "put a thick layer of coating on." What would be considered thick? From most of my research only a few drops seem to be needed to get started with most coatings. Also I know the car will need a full decon and polish. If a certain spot may not be able to be polished to full perfection and some minor defects are present, is there any adverse affect to applying the coating or is it just the fact that the defect will be "locked in" by the coating. I generally polish on the side of caution and if my most aggressive available option doesn't fully remove it I will stop there. For my final question would be for those that have used this coating how long to wait into applying a second coat if this a viable option to do.
 
Excellent choice there.

I wouldn't take that "thick layer" recommendation to heart. If you use the supplied coating block applicator and the suede microfiber sheets, just put a thin line of coating across the suede. I don't have a picture myself, but either a thin line across the suede or something like this:
View attachment 57294

By applying this to a 2x2 foot section (you can get away with larger sections) and applying in criss-cross patterns, you will get a good distribution of the product that you eventually spread with a mf towel and then buff again. The problem with "thick" applications is that most of it is wiped or buffed away -- a wasted amount. If you want thicker coating, apply a second or third layer.

Yes: decontaminate, compound (if needed) and polish.

A big important step that I'm sure you are aware of (but didn't mention) is the prep before the coating. Personally, I think Gyeon Prep stinks. I think Gtechniq Panel Wipe is WAY better. I also like Wolfgang Prep. You need a surface devoid of any polishing oils or anything that would stand between the coating and the clear coat.

You can apply coatings over swirls and water spots. It just sticks out like a sore thumb sometimes!

I'd wait about an hour between applications/layers, unless you're going to bake the coating -- 15 minutes between applications.

EDIT: BTW, pay close attention to your first few panels. Given the humidity and temperature, that Mohs can flash quickly and leave a high spot that you won't get out without polishing.
 
Thanks for the detailed response. I am aware of the prep after polishing. I have the Gyeon prep and also carpro eraser.
 
Here's a good application video from the Autogeek YouTube channel.

 
boostedmoose003 said:
This weekend I'll be tackling my car and applying Gyeon Mohs. I have a few quick final questions. As for application on the Gyeon, it states to "put a thick layer of coating on." What would be considered thick? From most of my research only a few drops seem to be needed to get started with most coatings. Also I know the car will need a full decon and polish. If a certain spot may not be able to be polished to full perfection and some minor defects are present, is there any adverse affect to applying the coating or is it just the fact that the defect will be "locked in" by the coating. I generally polish on the side of caution and if my most aggressive available option doesn't fully remove it I will stop there. For my final question would be for those that have used this coating how long to wait into applying a second coat if this a viable option to do.
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I personally find gyeon a pita to work with.Tried the coating to tacky .If your not super careful high spots .Boyds true coat is a nice coating but never gets mentioned on here.Deep gloss and thick and a pleasure to work with.Had it on my last car and i would tunnel wash it every now and then.The hydrophobic was very strong and didn't degrade a fast without any booster applied.
 
I also forgot to ask. Once the applicator is initially primed how much do you normally add to the applicator afterwards, just a drop or two? Also how often should the applicator be changed out?
 
boostedmoose003 said:
I also forgot to ask. Once the applicator is initially primed how much do you normally add to the applicator afterwards, just a drop or two? Also how often should the applicator be changed out?
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about every time just like the picture I showed...

You have to be careful. The suede mf isn't "primed" like a polishing pad is. If you don't move those little suede mf out of the rotation, I've seen small glass crystals at points.
 
How many suede pads do you get with the kit?

Tom
 
So I got a late start today and still have some more polishing to do tomorrow. My question is what should I use to wipe any dust off the already buffed panels before I do my prep wipe down? My garage gets a little dusty. Would Kentokek Showroom Shine be ok?
 
I'm not familiar with that detail spray. Do you happen to own McKee's N914 or Meguiar's D114?
 
boostedmoose003 said:
So I got a late start today and still have some more polishing to do tomorrow. My question is what should I use to wipe any dust off the already buffed panels before I do my prep wipe down? My garage gets a little dusty. Would Kentokek Showroom Shine be ok?
Click to expand...
Poorboys Spray and Wipe leaves nothing behind...I think Kenotech contains wax/glossing agents so maybe stay away from that. McKees 914 Rinseless also leaves nothing behind.
 
I just realized I do have nanoskin glide that can be mixed as a detail spray. It states it is silicone free, can anyone verify that?
 
How did the Mohs turn out? I'm getting ready to apply once I'm done piloshing. I also have the Gyeon Prep, which seems weak as others have mentioned. How about just using an ipa solution?
 
I was recommended by Todd at Esoteric and Gyeon Jeremy that 1 hour between layer is the BARE minimum. Todd recommended 3 hours between layers. Even with IR heat lamps of 15 minutes baking, that does not reduce the wait times between layers. Jeremy said "Force-curing helps prevent water spots in the future and gives you more confidence the installed coating is ready to leave your studio/garage." IR curing will just add further benefits but regardless if you use IR curing,you will still need to wait a minimum of 1 hour between coats.
 
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