Final wax removal - by hand or machine?

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Kenreau

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Hello AGO Forum,

I'm a newbie and just getting underway with the detailing bug. I'm taking delivery of a Flex kit tomorrow and planning to do a winter prep on my car this weekend.

I've watched a bunch of the videos here and have learned a great deal already. I just recently joined this forum and was curious to find out what most people do to remove & buff out the final LSP or wax? I plan to use my flex machine for the wax application.

I was thinking of getting a wool pad and a few of the micro fiber bonnets for this final wax removal, but in all of the videos I've watched so far, this final process is apparently typically done by hand?

Does anyone use the wool pad and mf bonnets?

Is there a consensus on a preferred method?

Thanks
Kenreau
 
Hi Kenreau,

Since this is your first post to AGO...

Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:


I've never tried to remove wax using a Flex 3401, I could do so tonight when we're working on the black SSR project out in the studio.

Historically, the PC style tool is used to remove waxes that dry using a microfiber bonnet on the high speed setting.

It's personal preference to remove wax by hand or machine, I always show both techniques in my classes and let each person decide on their own.

It could the the direct drive oscillating action of the Flex 3401 won't lend itself well for wax removal so let me try first and get back to you.


:)
 
I prefer to remove it by hand. I do not like not having any tactical feel when using a machine to do it. When I do it by hand I can feel if the wax is gone, and I also get to flip the towel often.
 
I always remove and buff my waxes by hand....:props:
 
Also...

You can only remove waxes that dry by mahine, not wipe-on, wipe-off waxes as your bonnet will just get wet and stop removing the wax and start spreading it again.

I cover that on pages 110 and 111 of my how-to book...


E-book
(Displayed on iPad - iPad not included)
EbookCarWashingPage.jpg


Paperback


Mike Phillips' Principles of Machine Polishing



:)
 
I like to remove by hand. Jim like that new avatar.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Hi Kenreau,

Since this is your first post to AGO...

Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:


I've never tried to remove wax using a Flex 3401, I could do so tonight when we're working on the black SSR project out in the studio.

Historically, the PC style tool is used to remove waxes that dry using a microfiber bonnet on the high speed setting.

It's personal preference to remove wax by hand or machine, I always show both techniques in my classes and let each person decide on their own.

It could the the direct drive oscillating action of the Flex 3401 won't lend itself well for wax removal so let me try first and get back to you.


:)
Click to expand...

Excellent, thank you. I will look forward to that.

Kenreau
 
Remove by hand.. . Love that fresh smooth glide of a just waxed car..... HEY DONT LOOK AT ME LIKE IM CRAZY!!! YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IM TALKIN ABOUT lol
 
I like to remove by hand. Just a really good feeling wiping off a fresh coat of sealant or wax.
 
Usually I remove wax by hand, which is easy enough with nxt 2.0, but this time I was in a hurry and decided to use my pc with a 6.5" cobra mf bonnet over a MG w7006 pad. The job was done much fastre tha usual and everything looked nice and shiny. However, the bonnet slid off center several times in the process and its elastic band got jammed between the backing plate and the motor housing. Also, the outer part of the cutting pad underneath became separated from its core in several places. Not good. So I have two questions for you guys:
(1) Can the pad be repaired? If so, what glue would you use on it?
(2) Here they sell a kit consisting of a lambswool leveling pad and 6" Cobra bonnets. A similar pad can be purchased separately elsewhere, but I'm not sure if it will work with the 6.5" bonnets.
 
kind of on the same page....but

When removing wax(tech 2.0) I notice left over oils/ smears after I wipe it clean. The smears were not there before I applied the wax so it has to be leftover from the wax....correct? I assume it has to do with dry and the wax being activated properly...should I try something less synthetic and more natural?

thanks for the help
 
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