Finally have a car worthy to Detail

wolven

New member
Joined
Apr 3, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
I recently purchased a 2002 Porsche 911 C2 Cabriolet 996 in Speed Yellow. HAving moved from New England to Florida it was time to get a convertible. After getting it with horrible paint condition, I decided I needed to go further than my standard hand wash, polish, carnuba Mothers and Meguiars method I have been using for 20 years. Although clean it was seriously in need of some clay, that I never had done. after completing using Mothers CG Clay (California Gold Clay) and SDS (Showtime Detailing Spray) what a differnece in the smoothness. I then used the SDS for daily touchups from bugs or brake dust until I could await the Detailfest. The swirl marks and haze were just too much to overcome by hand, even after a complete weekend of claying, polishing with Mothers CGS&G (Sealant and Glaze) and CG Carnuba. I was not about to take the polishing or rubbing compounds to her until I found out more info.

At Detailfest I met Mike and bought and read his book as well as watched most of the videos online explaining process. All the classes were booked weeks ahead so I missed it. I did get in a Pinnacle session by Nick (?) and asked lots of questions.

I ended up purchasing the PC (PortaCable 7424XP) with the Wolfgang Swirl Remover Kit.

Although the shine came out wonderful on my test spot (See attachments of whole hood, done in 4 sections) using Orange CCS Pad w/ TSR (Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover) 5-6 passes speed 5 with about 15psi on passes 3-5 after on surface, then White CCS pad w/ FG (Finishing glaze) 4-5 passess speed 4; and Blue CCS w/ DGPS (Deep Gloss Paint Sealant) 4 passess speed 3.

I still have deeper surface scratches, swirls and some type of water spots that I know should be able to get removed.

My big question is do I go with the wool or MMF (Meguiars MicroFiber) to correct or a more agressive compound.

Kit comes with 6.5" CCS pads with 5" backing plate, it shows pictures that show the same overhang, just making sure that is normal. Marked backing plate and it spins freely and centered.
 
In my experience, microfiber pads are the way to go for correction using a DA.
 
Thanks. I saw another detail in the forum on a newer 997 that used the Mmf with good results. Just want to make sure that would be next step. Trying the least destructive path is not something I am accustomed to.
 
No need for wool on the 996. Mine corrects beautifully with the orange and white Lake Country pads. Congratulations on the P-car!
 
First...

Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:

I still have deeper surface scratches, swirls and some type of water spots that I know should be able to get removed.

My big question is do I go with the wool or MMF (Meguiars MicroFiber) to correct or a more agressive compound.


Wool pads don't work on PC style tools... Microfiber pads do.

You can try the MF System with the M105 or the D300 or you can take another shot at it using a more aggressive product than the TSR.

The TSR is an awesome "Medium Cut" polish and it's a good idea to have a true compound in your arsenal, look at the Optimum Compound II, or one of the Megs compounds like M105 or Ultimate Compound.

All of these compounds can be used with foam or microfiber pads.

Here's another tip, when trying to remove deeper defects shrink the size of your work area down for the reasons I explain in this article for working in the sun...


Here's the article,
Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight


Here's the excerpt...


Mike Phillips said:
Shrink your work area down to a smaller size...
Anytime a product becomes difficult to work with, one tip you can try is to shrink down the size of your work area. This means you spread the product out over a smaller area and because you're engaging the working film of product over the area more quickly as you move the polisher there's less time for the product to dry.

AND to add to that... when you work a smaller area you're doing more abrading to the surface than working a larger area thus removing more paint faster and that's how you remove below surface defects... you remove a little paint.

I would caution you however since you live in Florida that the sun is not your friends as it relates to your car's paint, the more paint you remove the less UV protection you have in the clear layer to protect the basecoat or colored layer.


See this article,

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...


And then read this thread started yesterday right as I was leaving work for the day...


Optimum Spray wax with UV(Is it that good)



And it was a pleasure meeting you at Detail Fest!


:xyxthumbs:
 
I see you referencing 6.5" pads, if you pick up some Megs MF pads, you would want to probably drop a pad size as to not overload the PC. And if it is just specific small areas that you would focusing on, you could even drop down into a 3.5-4.5 inch pad.

By the way, I love it "Finally have a car worthy to Detail
I recently purchased a 2002 Porsche 911 C2 Cabriolet 996 in Speed Yellow."
 
Thanks for the advice, I will go with the Optimum and get a smaller orange pad. Breaking the hood into 6 sections as the 4 were 15-20X20-24, for correction I can see why might be big. I will slow my arm speed a little more to concentrate on those areas, as book and video suggests as well.

While ordering any recommendations on exterior Black plastic (turned gray) under wipers, and on interior dash and trim.
Seats I took care of with Leather Master and Roof with RaggTopp while at Detailfest.
 
Moar pics of the Porsche.....and welcome:dblthumb2:
 
Thanks for the advice, I will go with the Optimum and get a smaller orange pad. Breaking the hood into 6 sections as the 4 were 15-20X20-24, for correction I can see why might be big. I will slow my arm speed a little more to concentrate on those areas, as book and video suggests as well.

While ordering any recommendations on exterior Black plastic (turned gray) under wipers, and on interior dash and trim.
Seats I took care of with Leather Master and Roof with RaggTopp while at Detailfest.


Regarding the small orange pad, especially if you are having trouble getting some defects out, go with a small microfiber pad. I picked up some of the 4-4.5" optimum MF pads to go with my 4.5" ccs finishing pads I already had (didn't want to being swapping out backing plates with the 3" megs MF and back to the 4.5" ccs gray pad.)

On exterior trim, I have only used Opti-bond, it made it look great, but didn't last as long as it does on the tires. There are some other products I want to try here for this role but someone else will have to chime in for experience.

For the interior, I have used Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer which is a nice matt finish that doesn’t leave a residue behind. I recently got a sample of DP Interior Protectant and I am liking it. It has a little gloss, not much but more than the Mequiars I was using, and still doesn't feel slippery or oily (liked the sample enough that I placed an order last night for DP interior protect which is BOGO right now along with a couple other things, 2-32 oz bottles will last a long time I suspect).
 
Nice car. I have a 01 Boxster. Ive always loved the 996 body style. I just got a PC and will be breaking it in in my Boxster tomorrow. Its Arctic Silver so swirles arent too much of an issue. I do have some scratches to work on though.
 
Well got a chance to purchase the Optimum Compound and MF pad as well as a smaller Orange pad for testing a section. Nice being a few hours a way, it was here today, in time for the weekend. Started with the Orange Pad on a section 1'x2' and no difference. I stepped up to the Optimimum MF and compound and still streaks and spots abound. Finished off the process with the same original method of Wolfgang SR-> Glaze->Sealant. Side by side no noticeable difference, removed tape and wiped clean and going to have to leave it at that. I will not be sanding out the clear coat without putting more layers on.
 
Back
Top