Finally!! My own car! 2001 Mustang GT

Whitethunder46 said:
Well, after practicing on my Dad's van, mom's car, friend's beat up '88 Tercel. I tried it out on my car today.

Only one panel (passenger side door), so I can really get a feel for what I need to use.

Process for the right side: XMT 3 on yellow pad. Still some decent scratches, so I tried XMT 2 and green pad. Again, some slight markings so I finished with XMT 1 and orange pad. Turned out flawless.

For the left side (not pictured) I did #3 with yellow pad followed with orange pad and #2 XMT. I tried to eliminate the middle step, but after working this in, there are still some very very slight markings left.

Out of the car's I've practiced on, my CC was pretty hard.

Before:
Tape.jpg


After:
Halfhalfmycar.jpg


halfhalfclose.jpg
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Looks great......How tough was it to see the swirl removers breaking down? I have a 02 F350 that is white.
I hope this warm weather stays for a while in the Mid Altantic states. I need time to do my truck.

Ken
 
Looks like you're really getting the hang of it! Good work :applause:

6LS2
 
amazing pictures man! I'm waiting on some new pads and towels to arrive before one more pass at my white suby! great work!
 
blckbrd said:
Looks great......How tough was it to see the swirl removers breaking down? I have a 02 F350 that is white.
I hope this warm weather stays for a while in the Mid Altantic states. I need time to do my truck.

Ken
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It was definately a little more difficult. I had the light positioned about 6 feet away and hitting the area head on. I kind of stood to the side or at an angle while polishing, this way I could see everything break down and swirls being removed.
 
So I did a little more today.


Worked on the entire driver side and part of the roof.

Well, it's now frustrating, lol. The rear quarter panels, and roof went pretty well. I used yellow pad/#3 and then orange pad/#1.

The door however, was a PITA. There's still a lot of swirls after using yellow and #3. I think I have to use a 3 step system and follow this with green/#2 and orange/#1 like I did the passenger door.

As far as the fron fender, severe water spots. I barely made a dent with yellow and #3. This is frustrating.

I did do the hood scoop real quick which is urethane, well, at least that was quick and simple, lol. I like plastic, haha.

Topped everything with Natty's blue since it's supposed to drop below 40* for the next 2 weeks. I need a break. haha
 
Keep it up bud, polishing with a PC/rotary, is just like a sport. It requires skill, and stamina... :applause: :cheers:
 
Whitethunder46 said:
The door however, was a PITA. There's still a lot of swirls after using yellow and #3. I think I have to use a 3 step system and follow this with green/#2 and orange/#1 like I did the passenger door.
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When you went from #3 to #2 and to #1 did you see any micromarring? I found by doing the three step that I was getting some hazing and some micromarring.

Whitethunder46 said:
As far as the fron fender, severe water spots. I barely made a dent with yellow and #3. This is frustrating.
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I'm curious, what is your plan of attach on this one. If you made a pas with yellow pad and XMT#3 your only step is to give it another pass and perhaps the three step system. Would you consider using another polish?
 
Nica said:
When you went from #3 to #2 and to #1 did you see any micromarring? I found by doing the three step that I was getting some hazing and some micromarring.
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No micromarring, this is what I did in the picture I posted. It's the best result I've gotten on my mustang so far.

Nica said:
I'm curious, what is your plan of attach on this one. If you made a pas with yellow pad and XMT#3 your only step is to give it another pass and perhaps the three step system. Would you consider using another polish?
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Of course I'd try another polish if there is something that will work better. If I do, I might wait though until I order a $75 order so I can get free shipping.
 
There are stronger polishes/compounds out there.. PM me if you need a little help.
 
As mentioned previously, try another pass. I had to do two passes with OHC on my car before I could go to polish.
 
Grimm said:
As mentioned previously, try another pass. I had to do two passes with OHC on my car before I could go to polish.
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I was told the OHC might be too strong for the PC? That the PC may not build up enough heat to break down that polish? This was the one I was thinking of getting.

That or Poorboys SSR3.
 
That I can't comment on as I have the old formula. But it works fine. I think I've heard that the new formula is more suited for the rotary, but will work fine with the PC. I know there were mixed reports on whether you can go straight to lsp from OHC. Not sure if it depends on the time allowed, or the paint. I thought it finished well on my first car (dark teal), but then on my black car I had to do a pass with the polish. I have a feeling that those who say it isn't good for a PC just haven't given it enough working time. Otherwise you can't beat this stuff as there is no dusting at all.
 
Whitethunder46 said:
I was told the OHC might be too strong for the PC? That the PC may not build up enough heat to break down that polish? This was the one I was thinking of getting.

That or Poorboys SSR3.
Click to expand...
It shouldn't be a problem, but I've used a Meg's compound, that is for rotary use, but with enough time and pressure, you can get it to break down.

I would try PB SSR3 first, but order both, just in case, and in the future, you have it. Make another pass with XMT #3, nice slow, and apply a great deal of pressure and see how it comes out. I would bet it comes out a lot better, and you just need #2/#1 to fix anything left.

For now, I would gain more experience before you use a compound, or anything in that range. SSR3 would be the highest I would suggest, until you get more experience using the PC.


Good luck bud.. :cheers:



-Nick
 
I know I'm still new with the PC, but I've messed around on 5 vehicles already and feel pretty confident.

I probably will order both the SSR 3 and OHC. Since I'm going to be doing this as a side business in the spring, I want to be able to have a very heavy cutting compound for worst case scenarios. Also, I'd rather not use a ton of pressure on the PC and would rather have a heavier compound that would still require another light polish over that.
 
Pressure generates the heat needed to break down the polish, along with the correct speed.

Don't skimp on the pressure, 10-15lbs of pressure on the head is NEEDED to break down the polish...



-Nick :cheers:
 
Very nice, you are positively getting it! Great Job.
 
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