Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System

08xB said:
OK. I used the Finish Kare Paint Decontamination system yesterday. The victim was a new white 2010 Kia Forte Sedan. It had massive protective film adhesive residue, rail dust, all kinds of paint contamination. I started with step one, it is a white liquid, mix it 4:1, I found that adding the 64 oz bottle to 2 gallons of water worked best. It has a mild solvent smell, best used outside. You sponge it on and let it dwell for 5 or so minutes. Being careful not to let it dry. Looking at the rinse water coming off, you'd think the car was black. Next up, step 2. It is a yellow'ish liquid and obviously acid-based. USE GLOVES! This is applied full strength to a couple panels at a time, again... DOT NOT LET IT DRY. It did require some agitation in a few spots where the rail dust was concentrated, but you could actually see the little orange spots slowly disappear. Let this dwell for 5 or so minutes. Then, wash with step 3. It is supposed to neutralize step 2 and remove any additional grease, wax or whatever. For those of you who are worried about plastic and rubber trim... Don't. It had NO effects AT ALL on any of my trim, even chrome plated plastic.

Does this replace claying.... NO. Does it significantly reduce the time spent claying... YES. I took an additional 30 minutes or so spot-claying some difficult areas.

Overall... definitely worth it. The paint was smooth as glass on 90% of the paint surface after the 3-step system alone.

Anybody have any ?'s on anything I missed.... lemme know.

EDIT: I think that Meguiar's body solvent would do the same as step one, but at a greater value.
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I believe it was Accumulator over at Autopia who said that he would often clay while the Step 2 of the Valuguard was dwelling. He said it was like claying on steriods. A highly contaminated that would take you a few hours to clay would become a very simple task. The bonded contaminants would come off so easily.
 
I used the FK Decon Sys about 2 months ago, on my white 06 Trailblazer. We had a rough winter here, salt and sand were continuous throughout the winter months.

I started seeing some rust dot's all over the vehicle, and tried only claying, but on such a large vehicle, it took forever. So I decided to give FK a try. It worked like a charm, and the red dot's have yet to re-appear.

Anyone thinking of using the FK Decon Sys, depending on how contaminated the vehicle, should clay after the second step if contamination is heavy. This will remove any left over contaminants before closing the pores of the paint, which the 3rd step does.

If you are thinking of trying the FK Decon Sys, consider ordering some FK 218 sealant-conditioner with your order, you wont be sorry.
 
Aquartz Iron Cut. That is all I have to say. AG should really carry Aquartz products, nothing they have (that I have used for removal of embedded Iron) compares to it.
 
so for you that have used it, are you mixing step one in a bucket or spray bottle? and how about step 2? dump the bottle in a bucket or just a spray bottle? very interested as i just acquired an 06 chevy trailblazer, white in color, with obvious brake dust, just want to make sure im clear on how to use it so i dont waste 40 bucks. thanks a million.
 
I mixed step one in a wash bucket, 4:1, so the 64oz bottle to two gallons of water. You could probably get away with using 32 oz. to one gallon of water therefore offering two applications. As far as step two, I just put a top with a spout on the bottle and dispensed the product directly on a wash pad. Hope this helps.
 
Bert31 said:
I believe it was Accumulator over at Autopia who said that he would often clay while the Step 2 of the Valuguard was dwelling. He said it was like claying on steriods. A highly contaminated that would take you a few hours to clay would become a very simple task. The bonded contaminants would come off so easily.
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Do bear in mind that step two of the Valugard system is the alkaline product, while step two of the Finish Kare system is the acidic product. If using the Finish Kare system, you'd want to clay during step one. I would think though, since step one contains petroleum distillates, it would eat up your clay pretty fast.
 
I own and have used the Finish Kare Decontamination system several times. It does indeed work. :xyxthumbs:
 
Erik Mejia said:
I own and have used the Finish Kare Decontamination system several times. It does indeed work. :xyxthumbs:
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I've never had the cahones to try the ABC system or the FK system, the "don't let it dry" warnings freak me out. I live in TX and it's pretty easy to blink your eyes and have the car dry up on you when doing a wash.

:/
 
08xB said:
Do bear in mind that step two of the Valugard system is the alkaline product, while step two of the Finish Kare system is the acidic product. If using the Finish Kare system, you'd want to clay during step one. I would think though, since step one contains petroleum distillates, it would eat up your clay pretty fast.
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Their website would lead you to believe the order is the same as Finish Kare's.

ValuGard Neutralization System

First the Alkaline product to neutralize acids and completely clean LSPs, silicone and other junk off the paint. (you wouldn't use an acid to neutralize an acid).

Second the Acid product to neutralize the Alkaline and to dissolve ferrous metal particles.

Lastly the Wash to clean off the first two products.

You are correct, after claying during the second step, your clay is pretty much shot so don't use a brand new piece however he swears it is worth sacrificing the clay for the results you can get.
 
proudpoppa said:
so for you that have used it, are you mixing step one in a bucket or spray bottle? and how about step 2? dump the bottle in a bucket or just a spray bottle? very interested as i just acquired an 06 chevy trailblazer, white in color, with obvious brake dust, just want to make sure im clear on how to use it so i dont waste 40 bucks. thanks a million.
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Here is the process I used on my white 06 Trailblazer.

Step 1: Mixed in a spray bottle. (Makes it easy to keep the panel wet with product, and minimize waste.)

Step 2: Put a sprayer on the bottle. (Makes it easy to use with clay.)

Step 3: Wash.

I recommend trying SONAX Wheel Cleaner, all wheel cleaner, chrome wheel cleaner, aluminum wheel cleaner, full effect wheel cleaner if just cleaning brake dust and contaminants on wheels. Then put a sealer on wheels to make future cleaning easy.
 
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