Finished the job and your thoughts on this matter.

Don't you think using FG400 plus an aio would take you out of a price range for car dealers? Or, a lot of DD jobs for that matter.

Wouldn't it be better time wise to use a SMAT compound and vary the application time on different body areas to max out your bang for the effort? E.g. A couple passes (or none) in some areas and more effort on the hood and trunk lid.
 
Nice job art! The floor mats look good! Did you just use 1500 grit or did you use your process you were telling me about?

Question when you do a interior with folex do you do just the floor mats that are dirty or the seats and everything else? Reason why I ask is because I have a steamer and trying to learn what products/tools I should use to do the job right
 
The Guz said:
Nice job. The car came out great.
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Thank you very much Guz!

ducksfan said:
Don't you think using FG400 plus an aio would take you out of a price range for car dealers? Or, a lot of DD jobs for that matter.

Wouldn't it be better time wise to use a SMAT compound and vary the application time on different body areas to max out your bang for the effort? E.g. A couple passes (or none) in some areas and more effort on the hood and trunk lid.
Click to expand...

Not to sure what your asking exactly, I think Tony put in a good way with him mentioning the 1.5.

So it could fall under a

1 step - AIO
2 step - Polish and wax
3 step - compound, polish and wax

so a 1.5 step could be in between a 1 step and a 2 or 3 step. Where you would be would be doing heavy correction with a DAT product like Menzerna FG400 and then switching to an AIO to polish and wax your results. I haven't tried this method yet, but Menzerna FG400 finishes out so nicely that I imagine it could be possible.

So you could be saving time and product and I would imagine you could then charge accordingly. Plus from what I remember reading D151 offers heavy correction for an AIO.

I think doing 1.5 step wouldn't be good for daily drivers that just want gloss or dealerships that just want to get the car out the door. However, I think it would be a good candidate for someone that wants a 3 step but might be out of there price range. So then you could hand them that package and of course all paint systems are different.

I got the idea because someone asked me after seeing some of my work in removing all the swirls from their car, but then I quoted them a 3 step, but that was out of their ideal price range, but wanted better results of a 1 step.

So I then thought why not combine the steps...

for example:

They wanted these results which this was a 3 step

IMG_7496.JPG


but then showed them the results of an AIO, but they wanted a better finish

IMG_7182.JPG


So I then though well I wonder if I could correct the paint with a DAT compound and finish it out with an AIO so I could eliminate a step in a sense. So that is why I asked here to see who has tried this combo.

I'll test it out and post pictures.
 
BrianMcLeod said:
Nice job art! The floor mats look good! Did you just use 1500 grit or did you use your process you were telling me about?

Question when you do a interior with folex do you do just the floor mats that are dirty or the seats and everything else? Reason why I ask is because I have a steamer and trying to learn what products/tools I should use to do the job right
Click to expand...

umm... sorry but my memory is always all screwy so don't remember what process I was telling you about. :dunno: lol, you could tell it to me here or just PM it to me so no worries and thanks.

(I would have taken more pictures but couldn't this time) :)

for the headlights I used:

1500
3000
Menzerna FG400
Meguiar's M205
My Rotary with a 3" backing plate
3" Tuf Buff wool pad
3" B&S Polishing pad

I could have removed 1500 with my Rotary but going 3000 is just so much easier and quicker.

I also gave it a quick pass after restoring the headlights and while correcting the hood with a 6" LC Orange pad and HD Speed on my Rupes 21. I figured the wax in HD Speed could seal the headlights for a bit.

wow... and I quoted him for the headlights just a quick polish lol

As for the carpet and Folex (again I just quoted a vacuum, but wanted to show off my work and what I was capable of doing, plus the stains were bugging me :laughing: )

I vacuumed the entire interior but only did carpet cleaning with Folex on the floor mats. (I am not to sure about this, but would imagine it would work) You could clean a lot of the interior i.e. carpet, seats and doors with Folex and brushes and just suck it up with a wet vac.

Doing only spot carpet stain removal using just Folex could literally just leave clean spot that will stand out from the dirtier carpet,

So what I do is remove that spot with Folex, brushes and wet/dry vac, etc. I then "blend" that area to match the rest of the carpet. That's why you can see the floor mats had random stains but I did the entire floor mats to "blend" the cleaning so it wouldn't stand out.

i.e.
imagine a stain that is 3" inches in diameter, while you might remove that stain it will now stand out from it's surrounding area. So what I do is clean the 3" area then I clean the area surrounding it as well increasing the area to say a 6" or a bigger area if need be and just blend it lighter and lighter by cleaning less and less so it can blend into the rest of the carpet.

Kinda like drawing when your shading... (kinda hard to explain, but my uncle showed me this when I was cleaning a stain on a dirty seat using Folex, because I then had a clean dot that stood out so he told me to just lightly clean the surrounding area as well)

Hope that helps some
 
Art,

On that "1.5 step" thing.....
I've done it using nothing *but* SMAT. (The level of cut depends on what/how much correction is needed to begin with.)

But basically you can take the 151 with a heavy cut pad and get your biggest correction, using the benefit of BOTH the pad and the compound. Then switch to a pad with little to no cut and finish down, just letting the compound do it's thing.

No need to mess with 2 compounds, just 2 pads. That's why I said go ahead and prime them both, so that when you're working the product it's just a matter of moving from one to another. The extra added benefit is that the cutting pad has a while to cool down (remembering you've cleaned it on the fly when you pulled it off the DA) while you're finishing the panel with the final pad. Which also means you complete each panel as you go, rather than do all the compounding, then go back to the polishing. :dblthumb2:
 
Ahh... I think I got you Tony. So what I believe your saying is if the paint needs heavy correction I could go with D151 and a heavy cut pad.

Then go back to D151 with a polishing.

Is that correct?

I wonder if that is one of the reasons I got such great correction on the Red Celica. I used B&S MF Cutting pad and D151 on my Rupes.

I wanted to experiment with MF pads and AIO's to see if I get any micro marring that Mike has mentioned, but didn't see any but at the same time the car was a beater so anything besides throwing my Rupes at it would have made it look better lol.
 
hernandez.art13 said:
Ahh... I think I got you Tony. So what I believe your saying is if the paint needs heavy correction I could go with D151 and a heavy cut pad.

Then go back to D151 with a polishing.

Is that correct?

I wonder if that is one of the reasons I got such great correction on the Red Celica. I used B&S MF Cutting pad and D151 on my Rupes.

I wanted to experiment with MF pads and AIO's to see if I get any micro marring that Mike has mentioned, but didn't see any but at the same time the car was a beater so anything besides throwing my Rupes at it would have made it look better lol.
Click to expand...

Yup.... you got it!:dblthumb2:

IMHO, 151 has the ability to correct like a mo-fo, (for what it is) being SMAT, using it with heavy cut pads (providing the paint is hard enough for heavy cut pads without micro-marring) yet when you work it through the full cycle, AND change to a (say white) lesser cut pad, or even a ZERO cut pad you can get it to finish exceptionally well. Heck, it'll even work with your rotary! ;)

The real caveat (as you know) is that you need to make sure you don't try to correct something that'll end up hazed and micro-marred like crazy. That can be caused by the pad, the compound, or BOTH. :eek: Not hard to recall a situation I was in last summer where I was told "use maximum cut" but that turned out to be too much for the paint system that day (to avoid micro-marring). :rolleyes: Having used less cut, (like maybe 151, just that it wasn't suitable due to the wax quotient involved) things would have been different. ;)
 
This was the first detail I did with D151. I think the stuff is great. Very glad I bought it.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
Boy I found out today what 151 will *NOT* work on.
That'd be an old ppf/bra that's past it's prime! :rolleyes:
Megs UP didn't help, neither did 151 (just left buffer marks with a 4" white pad). Rubbing it with my finger or the heel of my hand made it look better! :eek:

Finally I pulled out some DG101 and a white pad and it's as good as it'll ever get, (all things considered).

FWIW the bra needs to be removed, yet short another $550 to replace it all, on the bumper, fenders (low and high), headlights, AND hood.... the hood was (so far) the only place that it was removed thus far. :(

Thank goodness for a steamer! ;)
 
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