Finishing glaze - how large is working area each time ?

Avgguy

Avgguy

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I'm compounding my black '11 Miata w Uber and Orange LC flat pads. I try to do no larger than a 1.5 X 1.5 ft. area w Uber. (Sometime even smaller). What size/how large are your passes for Finishing Glaze ? Actually I think this is my first time using it. I have a small, low-volume biz. I'll likely be using white LC flat pads. Very little marring with Uber, even w orange pads... which is why I love it.

Oh, my steps in this process are in order: wet car, Tarminator, foam wash/1 bucket, dry, BF Iron X, dry, clay (real bar), test spot, Wg Uber, WG FG, WG DGPS, P21S Carnauba (after 12 hour dwell on DGPS).

Thanks in advance.
 
I found instructions that say 2X2 ft.area. Anyone going larger than that ?
 
This is a pretty subjective question.

Many factors to consider like temperature, humidity, etc.

Are you asking because you are experiencing problems?

The 2'x2' "suggestion" is pretty common across most lines of products (liquids) used to machine correct. IMO, it is to kind of "idiot-proof" it so that Ol' Bubba doesn't correct the entire car, have problems removing it, and then write a review of how "THIS IS THE WORST PRODUCT EVER!!" :doh:

That said, it is kind of your call on how much area to correct in one section. It could be less than 2'x2', or more. :)
 
I treat it just like a polish and work in 2 x 2 sections or smaller. I like to make sure that I can wipe away the residue before it dries up.
 
PaulMys said:
This is a pretty subjective question.

Many factors to consider like temperature, humidity, etc.

Are you asking because you are experiencing problems?

The 2'x2' "suggestion" is pretty common across most lines of products (liquids) used to machine correct. IMO, it is to kind of "idiot-proof" it so that Ol' Bubba doesn't correct the entire car, have problems removing it, and then write a review of how "THIS IS THE WORST PRODUCT EVER!!" :doh:

That said, it is kind of your call on how much area to correct in one section. It could be less than 2'x2', or more. :)
Click to expand...

Yep... all that comes into play. I'm asking because I haven't used this particular polish much at all. I always like to get opinions from others who have used the same products I use, especially professionally. Also I've spent a lot of time on a small black car using Uber compound and it looks amazing...... but I'm ready to get on with it.
 
I find it VERY helpful to keep it to 2X2 with new products I'm trying out. It helps me focus on the correct process for using it.

You can always go larger once you get more comfortable with it but dial it in with 1.5'ers or 2X2'ers.

I still wouldn't go any bigger than 3X3. Basically, I get to know a product in small 1.5/2' sections and many times continue that size around the vehicle.

I will say that my machine choice sometimes dictates a larger "working area". Direct drive or rotary get larger sections but not when trying new product.
 
Paul A. said:
I find it VERY helpful to keep it to 2X2 with new products I'm trying out. It helps me focus on the correct process for using it.

You can always go larger once you get more comfortable with it but dial it in with 1.5'ers or 2X2'ers.

I still wouldn't go any bigger than 3X3. Basically, I get to know a product in small 1.5/2' sections and many times continue that size around the vehicle.

I will say that my machine choice sometimes dictates a larger "working area". Direct drive or rotary get larger sections but not when trying new product.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes on the 1.5/2's. 3 X 3 is usually my limit too. Don't think I've ever gone past that.
 
Like many other's already posting here, I'll use the 2'x2' as a starting point and from there I'll let the panels on the vehicle be my guide and adjust to roughly the same amount of square area. Often there is crease, bend, or other point that catches my eye on larger panels which helps divide up my polishing areas.
 
Good point, Nate. I do the same i.e. find a good boundary on certain panels/sections to work. Maybe from "here" to this body line etc. however i still don't go crazy trying to work too big of an area.

I like to focus my work on manageable sections and make sure it matched my test spot before moving on. There have been times when i hit that section again before moving on.
 
I recently did my bike and used all Wolfgang products.

For the most part, I did a two step using their Total Swirl remover and the Finishing Glaze. I used the Uber Compound for some spot correcting where I needed a heavy hitter, but then followed with two more steps. With a smaller 3" pad, I did about 1' square sections.

Instructions say to wipe down with a damp MF towel afterward, but instead, I wiped it off with an MF dampened with Gyeon Prep. Whether water or prep, I found I needed to do this or the product wouldn't easily wipe off without risking having to muscle the product off by wiping super hard.

I was super happy with the outcome. I have been looking into the WG's DGPS. So far, anything WG I have used has been good stuff.
 
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