First attempt at polishing

Alright lets see if we can give you some help w/instructions

1. Wash it down really well, using Dawn is just fine (just use a mitt that is diff than the one you normally use), this will rid the surface of any LSP (last step product, i.e.... wax/sealant/oils)

2. Iron X

3. If you have not bought clay yet, then buy the Nanoskin Disc. This product is great, worth every penny and u can use over and over again, if dropped then spray it off. I hate clay, this changed my opinion, and I use the same Dawn wash bucket to lubricate it, just a little heavier with the soap.

4. Start polishing. Compounding stage you want to use a heavier cutting "polish" to level the surface. Yes the Scholl S3 Compound is the one to start with. Make sure you test an area of the car first and see what works the best. You can try the heavier cutting pad with the S40 polish first to see how that works. Then try the White light cutting pad with the S3 next. If one of those works then start there. IF not then heavy cutting pad and S3. You want to go lightest cutting to heaviest in the process. The least amount of Clear Coat you remove is the best. Some areas of the vehicle may be better or worse so you might have to switch up a little so you remove the least amount.

You said Orange LC (which one) some are cutting and some are light cut polish. If CCS pads then yes and white for polishing. You want to use at least 3-4 if not 5-6 for the whole car, unless you clean them every few panels. Clear Coat will build up on the pads and make them not as productive and can introduce increased marring from the debris. Standard size sedan I use 6 pads for cutting, not including small pads for tight areas.

Polishing - you want to use a light cut polishing pad (red is no cut for most of LC's pads that is used to VERY lightly polish or apply sealant) Usually this is a White pad or Green and use this with a light polish such as your Scholl S40. Start you first 2-3 passes with normal pressure, then your last 2 passes with little to no pressure and just the weight of your buffer. Do the same similar process doing a pass or so with very little pressure at the end of compounding also. This helps lessen the marring left by the pad and compound.

If using a coating like you said you were, then after all is polished to the way you want, lightly wash the vehicle off with Dawn and this will help remove all the oils from the polishes. This will help prepare the surface to accept the coating. If using the same brand of liquids, and applying a sealant, then you would not have to wash it, just apply the LSP and be done. Coatings need a fresh surface.

Remember, over 60% of scratches come from the drying stage of the vehicle. Do yourself a favor and buy a Master Blaster air dryer (about 80$) and use this from now on. You will be amazed how scratch free the car will be 6 months from now. This is actually my favorite part of the process. Call me nuts I guess. :)

If your purpose is to check that your initial polishing steps worked and not simply filling in the swirls, then yes go ahead. But Mike Philips notes that the act of IPA wipedown itself (or any chemical stripper) may cause marring because IPA is not a lubricant. So the question becomes, did your polishing worked, or did you induce marring after polishing?

And for sealant to bond, it's not important. Take it directly from our guru, Mike Philips:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ble-immiscible-wax-paint-sealant-bonding.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-how-important-ipa-wipedown-2.html#post880828

In summary, he said to follow manufacturer's recommendation. He points out that most wax and sealant manufacturers do not state to chemically strip the surface before applying their product.

:iagree::righton::iagree:

I thought about a long winded reply but these two pretty much say it all. :props:

Pads, GET LOTS OF PADS!
Cutting/compounding means you'll need 6~8 of whichever color your TEST SPOT tells you works the best. If that's orange or white, either one you'll need a LOT of.

You can also polish with a white pad so keep that in mind. (I own more white pads in all sizes than all others, easily a couple dozen.)

I'm with the consensus on not using an alcohol wipe if you're using a sealant as well.

Sure.... to "inspect your work" it's a great tool. But on gray metallic it's going to be hard to see (especially if you're new at it, and without a good inspection light). Do be careful and use a QUALITY microfiber towel to do all your final wiping, be that compounding, polishing and LSP wipes.

On the towel thing. GET LOTS OF TOWELS!!!!!! Go to Microfiber Tech or The Rag Company (anybody here knows which one is my favorite) ;) and order a couple dozen gold 360GSM towels. Get a dozen 530GSM units, and then get maybe half a dozen 470/500GSM split weave Korean towels. When compound wiping DO NOT use the same towels to wipe polish with that you used for compound wiping. Also DO NOT try and wipe the entire car with 1 or 2 towels. Compounding should use up 8 or so. Polishing can use a few less.
 
Placed an order for some more pads and microfiber towels. Wow this stuff adds up quick.


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It does but consider that you are building up materials for that initial outlay of funds. Towels, pads etc last a long time (for me anyway) and while the initial acquisition cost seems high they last a long time and you won't be buying them again soon. Even the "consumables" (polishes, waxes, sealants etc.) last a long time if you are only doing your household's vehicles.
 
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