First customer interested in a coating application.... NEED HELP PLEASE!!!

Dan Tran

Dan Tran

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Good afternoon AGO, it's Dan Tran again. This time I have a newbie question to something I have never dealt with. I have been researching as much as I can and I am starting to feel more comfortable with the idea of coating applications.

Here is the story..

One of my client is in the process of purchasing a brand new 2016 Honda Accord Sedan in the dark blue color I believe or black. Either he wants to have the car polished up to pop out the color and have it sealed in. He is on a budget. So the first thing I thought of was applying HD speed with a polishing pad and topping off with HD Poxy for the extra kick.

However, after talking to him a bit more he mentioned that since he is buying a new car that me he may want to go with a coating option instead as long as it doesn't cost him much more.

I'm not against this but this obvious changes things up a bit as far as paint preparation correct folks!?

My second thought was looking into Carpro Essence topped with CQuartz. I read that with Essence it preps the paint for coatings, is this true?!

My first question: Is this the right move?

Are coatings anything to be scared about as far as proper application?

My second question is:

Once proper paint preparation is done, I apply the coating with a foam applicator, then level it off with a micro fiber towel?

Am I on the right track?

If so are these steps universal with all coating options?

Lastly, Cure time is how long for coatings typically?
 
Most coatings are user friendly, some more than others. First thing you want to do is polish any defects from the paint as the coating will seal them in semi permanently. After polishing, you want to remove the polishing oils to allow the coating to properly adhere. There are many coating preps available, most just mist on and wipe off. As for application and buffing, it really depends on which coating you go with. Personally I'd suggest Wolfgang Uber Coating, it can be used on everything on the car and is super user friendly.

No matter which coating you choose, remember, Thin To Win, don't over apply. Cure time is 12-24 hours typically
 
Dan Tran said:
Either he wants to have the car
polished up to pop out the color
and have it sealed in.

He is on a budget.

However, after talking to him a bit more
he mentioned that since he is buying a
new car that me he may want to go with
a coating option instead

as long as it doesn't cost him
much more.

I'm not against this but this obvious
changes things up a bit as far as paint
preparation
Dan Tran said:
Is this the right move?
Am I on the right track?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
If a Coating does become the Customer's
preferred choice: don't short change yourself;
charge accordingly.


Bob
 
FUNX650 said:
If a Coating does become the Customer's
preferred choice: don't short change yourself;
charge accordingly.


Bob
Click to expand...

Is this something I should charge by the hour. Because for a mid size sedan say he only wanted a full exterior done with a machine wax coating, if the car is in really good shape (in this case new) including paint decon, I would normally start at about $95 and I would add on $90 for 1 step (AIO) $160 for 2 steps and $200 for a three step

I would think it would be safe to charge for the cost of the product also.

Matter of fact, where should I be with charging?
 
Docpeanut said:
Most coatings are user friendly, some more than others. First thing you want to do is polish any defects from the paint as the coating will seal them in semi permanently. After polishing, you want to remove the polishing oils to allow the coating to properly adhere. There are many coating preps available, most just mist on and wipe off. As for application and buffing, it really depends on which coating you go with. Personally I'd suggest Wolfgang Uber Coating, it can be used on EVERYTHING on the car and is super user friendly.

No matter which coating you choose, remember, Thin To Win, don't over apply. Cure time is 12-24 hours typically
Click to expand...


LITERALLY EVERYTHING?

Exterior trim pieces, chrome, wheels?? Glass too?

Are some coatings paint only applications?
 
Btw everyone, even if he doesn't go with the coating, this is a learning thread for me.

Thanks in advance for your insight!
 
I applied my first coating this weekend and it was pretty easy. I used PBL Diamond Paint Coating on a 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab. The overall process (paint cleansing lotion and coating) took about 2 hours. I'd charge a flat rate instead of by the hour as I'm sure more experienced detailing professionals can complete the process faster.
 
Dan Tran said:
Is this something I should charge by the hour. Because for a mid size sedan say he only wanted a full exterior done with a machine wax coating, if the car is in really good shape (in this case new) including paint decon, I would normally start at about $95 and I would add on $90 for 1 step (AIO) $160 for 2 steps and $200 for a three step

I would think it would be safe to charge for the cost of the product also.

Matter of fact, where should I be with charging?
Click to expand...
I would at least try to get 450.00.Thats a whole day process.59 bucks for bf and the rest labor.I know guys getting way more than that in my area.If he deosnt want to commit less work for you,200 isn't gonna change your life.charge what you are worth.I had a guy wanted me to remove dog hair from a terrain mid sized suv,I said no cause I could tell off the bat he wasn't gonna pay me 8 hrs of cleaning that disaster.
 
Dan Tran said:
LITERALLY EVERYTHING?

Exterior trim pieces, chrome, wheels?? Glass too?

Are some coatings paint only applications?
Click to expand...

Literally everything, and yes, some coatings are designed only for paint, others for wheels and others for glass
 
Something like WG Uber Ceramic is easy to apply and you can get 2-3 cars from the syringe. Also OPT Gloss Coat is easy to apply. My vehicles have Uber on them now, very happy with it.
 
Don't forget to factor in how much a coating will cost YOU! Essence and cquartz ain't cheap...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Dan Tran said:
Good afternoon AGO, it's Dan Tran again. This time I have a newbie question to something I have never dealt with. I have been researching as much as I can and I am starting to feel more comfortable with the idea of coating applications.

Here is the story..

One of my client is in the process of purchasing a brand new 2016 Honda Accord Sedan in the dark blue color I believe or black. Either he wants to have the car polished up to pop out the color and have it sealed in. He is on a budget. So the first thing I thought of was applying HD speed with a polishing pad and topping off with HD Poxy for the extra kick.

However, after talking to him a bit more he mentioned that since he is buying a new car that me he may want to go with a coating option instead as long as it doesn't cost him much more.

I'm not against this but this obvious changes things up a bit as far as paint preparation correct folks!?

????My second thought was looking into Carpro Essence topped with CQuartz. I read that with Essence it preps the paint for coatings, is this true?!

???? My first question: Is this the right move?

IM FEELING GOOD HERE - Are coatings anything to be scared about as far as proper application?

My second question is:

Once proper paint preparation is done, I apply the coating with a foam applicator, then level it off with a micro fiber towel?

????? Am I on the right track?

If so are these steps universal with all coating options?

ANSWERED - Lastly, Cure time is how long for coatings typically?
Click to expand...

So far I have gotten great help.

Any thoughts of the previous questions I have unanswered?

Instead of essence, I have Wolfgang total swirl remover and finishing glaze. Is it a matter of just applying a paint prep item like an IPA?
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I wouldn't apply a glaze and then prep the paint.

I'd use a compound/polish - whatever gets the paint in its best condition - and then prep the paint. IPA, Gtechniq panel wipe, CarPro Eraser, etc.

Reportedly, if you use CarPro Essence, you can skip the paint prep after you buff off the essence residue. It is designed for CarPro coatings, but others report success topping it with other coatings.

Wolfgang is really easy to apply and it does coat anything.

Pinnacle Black Label and McKees (formerly DP coating?) are easy to apply.

22PLE is easy to apply.

Gtechniq C1/EXO requires applying two separate coatings and requires a bit of a learning curve to overcome, but the results are nothing short of incredible.

I prefer applying the coatings with a microfiber suede cloth. There are 10cm x 10cm cloths you can buy or get one of those 16x16 inch ones and cut it up (that's what I do).

Agree with Bob: charge more for this.

(Sent from my mobile device.)
 
kevincwelch said:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I wouldn't apply a glaze and then prep the paint.

I'd use a compound/polish - whatever gets the paint in its best condition - and then prep the paint. IPA, Gtechniq panel wipe, CarPro Eraser, etc.

Reportedly, if you use CarPro Essence, you can skip the paint prep after you buff off the essence residue. It is designed for CarPro coatings, but others report success topping it with other coatings.

Wolfgang is really easy to apply and it does coat anything.

Pinnacle Black Label and McKees (formerly DP coating?) are easy to apply.

22PLE is easy to apply.

Gtechniq C1/EXO requires applying two separate coatings and requires a bit of a learning curve to overcome, but the results are nothing short of incredible.

I prefer applying the coatings with a microfiber suede cloth. There are 10cm x 10cm cloths you can buy or get one of those 16x16 inch ones and cut it up (that's what I do).

Agree with Bob: charge more for this.

(Sent from my mobile device.)
Click to expand...

Yeah sorry. This is lack of sleep Dan talking.

My understand is correct/ polish as best as possible

Then what I was trying clarify is the phrase "paint prepping". So IPA/Carpro eraser, right?! This is the important part in order for the coating to adhere well?
 
Coatings adhere best to clean and smooth clear coat. Therefore, one should correct the paint (if needed) with a compound and/or polish. This step is important to get the clearcoat in its best condition.

Some polishes are oily. Some are dusty. Some leave behind lubricants, etc. These will all interfere with the bonding of the coating to the clearcoat; therefore, they need to be removed. (This is not the case with CarPro Essence.)

This is the "paint prep" stage, which is done with IPA, eraser, panel wipe, mineral spirits, etc.

Each coating manufacturer makes its own paint prep product. I tend to use the one that is recommended by the manufacturer, but I suspect this has more to do with successful marketing than science, but you will have to make your own decisions.

(Sent from my mobile device.)
 
What I do is polish then rewash car with a tinch of apc.Then iPa and letting the iPa gas out for 30 min then start coating.
 
Since it will be your first coating, I would go Ceramic. Pinnacle, Duragloss, McKee's, they are easier to apply, WOWO.
Silica coatings are trickier, a bit of learning curve, and high spots, especially on black cars (more difficult to spot it when leveling it).
I just had a problem with coating a black Audi friday, a silica based coating, it was really hot and the coating started to harden it really fast, even the applicator had to be changed after 50 minutes, I had to redo the hood.
My two cents.
 
Last edited:
kevincwelch said:
Coatings adhere best to clean and smooth clear coat. Therefore, one should correct the paint (if needed) with a compound and/or polish. This step is important to get the clearcoat in its best condition.

Some polishes are oily. Some are dusty. Some leave behind lubricants, etc. These will all interfere with the bonding of the coating to the clearcoat; therefore, they need to be removed. (This is not the case with CarPro Essence.)

This is the "paint prep" stage, which is done with IPA, eraser, panel wipe, mineral spirits, etc.

Each coating manufacturer makes its own paint prep product. I tend to use the one that is recommended by the manufacturer, but I suspect this has more to do with successful marketing than science, but you will have to make your own decisions.

(Sent from my mobile device.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! This is very helpful!!
 
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