First DA attempt reveals issues I didn't know I had

[Wadey]

Howdy! Old lurker — new member.

I'm the proud owner of a new Porter Cable. And while I've obsessed about keeping my vehicles nice since highschool, this is my first DA.

I have a silver 2002 Tacoma that lives outdoors. I do the best I can to keep it coated so it stays youthful.

Last night, I started on a portion of the hood. I used a four-step process:

1) Clay
2) Megs Ult Compound w/ green pad
3) Megs Ult Polish w/ white pad
4) Megs Ult Wax w/ black pad

The DA produced sweet results and I sweated far less than I ever have when working by hand!

I'm happy with the smoothness, BUT — now that my clearcoat is more reflective, I can see tons of little of imperfections under artificial light. Looks like water spot damage.

Where would anyone recommend I start and how to proceed?

I'm thinking try vinegar to see if these are deposits rather than etched?

If that doesn't fix it, can anyone recommend product/pad and method?

Thanks much!

 

[trashmanssd]

ostpics:

Just being wise guy but if you can capture it in a picture it is worth a thousand words. But best guess would be deeply etched water spots that you may get out with more aggressive compounding but eat up a lot clearcoat chasing them.

 

[expdetailing]

Sir, I am new at this so I don't have any fancy tricks other than suggesting start all over again in the troubled areas. This time around, use a microfiber pad, use speed six, and apply 15 lbs of downward pressure. I have used this technique with excellent cutting with the pc. My compound was hd cut. I believe ulitmate compound is high on the cut scale, but you could go higher. If you choose to order a mf pad(s) based on my amatuer recommendation, order a small botttle of menzerna fg400, or meg's m105, or m101, or something along those lines. There's also a compound in the PBMG line that is equal to what I previously listed. If you google, "compound comparison chart autogeek," you can compare cuting ability and see names.

 

[expdetailing]

Here's the link to the updated chart:

Autogeek Swirl Removers & Compounds Comparison Chart

 

[refreshauto]

with the PC, you want to be at speed 6, 6-8 section passes with slow arm movement, enough pressure not to stop the pad from rotating. you can also try Carpro Spotless and see if that helps.

i just worked on a Tacoma, i used FG-400 with a TufBuff Black Wool Pad

 

[FUNX650]

Howdy! Old lurker — new member.

:welcome: ...to AGO!

now that my clearcoat is more reflective, I can see tons of little of imperfections under artificial light.

That's par for course...
Now comes the decision to chase them, or not.

Looks like water spot damage.

I'm thinking try vinegar to see if these are deposits rather than etched?

If that doesn't fix it, can anyone recommend product/pad and method?

Meguiars #47 Hard Water Spot Remover is a boat polish for fiberglass boats that cleans the gel coat and prevents further oxidation.


Bob

 

[allenk4]

Whatever you decide to try....do a Test Spot, before proceeding to do the entire vehicle

 

[sixsix]

Why did you use the compound with the green pad and the polish with the white pad? I thought the white pad had more "cut" than the green?

 

[expdetailing]

I could be very wrong sixsix, but I think the green is a light cutting/heavy polishing pad.

 

[David Hayward]

The old green was a cut and polish the new green from lc is lighter than white. The old green pad was replaced with pink.

 

[kevin_1981]

I normally use the Green pad for polishing, and Orange/Yellow pad offers significantly more cut, IMO.

 

[sixsix]

I guess it depends if you use the ccs or the flat pads.

From the autogeek website
CCS Green Polishing/Finishing Foam 4 Pad - Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application

CCS White Polishing Foam Pad - This pad features high absorption foam for the application of waxes, polishes and sealants. This pad has very little cutting power and works well for application purposes. It’s made of soft, porous foam so it’s gentle on your paint. They’re also perfect for polishing metal wheels, bumpers, and mirror covers.

I tend to use the white pads for cleaner waxes(wolfgang paint polish enhancer)... I have some green pads but I have yet to use them. I was just gonna wait till I wore out one of the white pads.

 

[DaveT435]

Not really anything to do with the problem...I don't think...I'm on my iPad and can't really see anything in the picture. Just curious do you use iron x somewhere in your steps?

 

[Wadey]

Wow! I'm impressed with the community here. Amazing amount of responses in no time from people attempting to help out a newbie. Thanks!

Not sure how helpful this image will be. I was hoping to get a shot where you could see a bunch of these, but I couldn't get my point and shoot to cooperate. The best I could do is zoom way in on one that was a little larger. Keep in mind the diameter of the shape you see here is approximately 1/4". You really only notice these when you view the surface from an extreme angle. Maybe I'm being too fussy?

Meanwhile, FUNX725's response has me wondering if I should be using different products when I hit my cap (or topper, depending where you live). That's fiberglass with a gel coat …

Regarding my pads: I should have mentioned they are hex-logics. Unless I misunderstood, I thought the green was a reasonable choice with the compound. I think it's a light cut? Maybe I need a more aggressive pad. Again, it's my first time so I was attempting to be conservative.

Re: IronX — I had never heard of that before today. Need to investigate.

 

[David Hayward]

Ok Yea the hex pads green is a light cut. If that's not getting the results you may need step up to orange and test a spot with that.

 

[refreshauto]

Go up with your pad choice, that should help out a lot

Sent from my SPH-D710 using AG Online

 

[Wadey]

Thanks for all the advice. I will order an orange and a microfiber.

I don't see any mfs labeled 5.5". Can anyone tell me if the 5" mfs are all 5.5?

 

[trashmanssd]

Thanks for all the advice. I will order an orange and a microfiber.

I don't see any mfs labeled 5.5". Can anyone tell me if the 5" mfs are all 5.5?

most 5" MFS pads are 5" on the dot and they work great on a 5" backing plate but wont work on a 5.25" backing plate.

 

[chet31]

I guess it depends if you use the ccs or the flat pads.

From the autogeek website
CCS Green Polishing/Finishing Foam 4 Pad - Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application

CCS White Polishing Foam Pad - This pad features high absorption foam for the application of waxes, polishes and sealants. This pad has very little cutting power and works well for application purposes. It’s made of soft, porous foam so it’s gentle on your paint. They’re also perfect for polishing metal wheels, bumpers, and mirror covers.

I tend to use the white pads for cleaner waxes(wolfgang paint polish enhancer)... I have some green pads but I have yet to use them. I was just gonna wait till I wore out one of the white pads.

Speaking of which, why can't Lake Country standardize their color scheme? On the old-fashioned flat pads, orange = light cut, blue = fine polishing. With HydroTech pads, orange = fine polishing. With the HD Orbital, blue = cutting. It seems they are going out of their way to confuse customers.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Howdy! Old lurker — new member.

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:

2) Megs Ult Compound w/ green pad

I'm happy with the smoothness, BUT — now that my clearcoat is more reflective, I can see tons of little of imperfections under artificial light. Looks like water spot damage.

Where would anyone recommend I start and how to proceed?

Like recommended by our other stellar members, you need a more aggressive pad and be sure to mark your backing plate so you can easily tell with your eyes that the pad is rotating. The pad must rotate in order to remove below surface defects.


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


Also, move the polisher SLOWLY over the surface. If you have not read my troubleshooting guide yet I'd recommend reading it to make sure you're not making all the normal mistakes made by people new to machine polishing.


DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide

I'm thinking try vinegar to see if these are deposits rather than etched?

Vinegar is an old wives tale or urban myth in most cases. It can work for releasing actual mineral deposits ON the surface by breaking down the bond the minerals have with the paint but that's only when you can actually see a crusty looking residue on the paint.

I explain all of the fallacy that is repeated and regurgitated on forums about vinegar here,

Using Vinegar to remove water spots


Here's your picture inserted, I uploaded it to your free gallery....

The picture shows a water spot IMPRINT RING or etching. Vinegar won't remove this only abrading the paint will remove it.


This article has pictures and how-to info....


3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III


Imprint Rings
These water spots look like they're established water spots, that is, every time it rains, or a sprinkler goes off, the water pools in the same place giving any corrosive substances repeated opportunity to etch into the paint.

Visually, I can tell the paint is likely etched in this instance but I won't know till I get the surface clean. The first step is to wash or wipe the finish, in this instance I'm going to repeat wiping process I used on the Mercedes-Benz with a spray detailer.

After wiping the paint clean, there are water spot imprints remaining in the paint.

So get the more aggressive pad, use good technique and you should be able to remove most if not all the water spot imprint rings....