First detail, which of these processes / products is best?

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direct

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I've been reading the forums for a week or so, and the more I research, the more confused I get about which products / process to use. I have a 2015 pearl white kia optima, 2016 black honda accord and a 2017 white toyota highlander and am trying to get one set of products to use for all 3 cars. Being new, the paint is in pretty good condition but the black honda does have light swirls from car washes.

I'm going after a deep, gloss (wet) shine for all cars with good durability. First a question:

Q: What's the point of topping an LSP (including AIO) with another LSP? If I'm not mistaken, most LSP's need a clean surface to properly bond; so why do people top with LSP's like Collinite 845 on top of an AIO or a sealant? Does it actually make a difference in terms of durability -- and if so, how does it bond on top of another LSP?

So the process is:

1) wash
2) clay
3) polish
4) pre wax cleaner
5) wax / sealant

3/4/5 can be replaced by an AIO but is it actually as effective as doing all 3 steps separately? I'm trying to be as cost effective as possible with this detailing. I've looked into many products but am trying to decide between the ones listed below:

AIOs:
- Griot's Garage One Step Sealant ($)
- Blackfire Total Polish & Seal ($$)
- Wolfgang Uber AIO ($$)
- Duragloss 105 ($)

Sealants
- Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant ($$$)- Collinite #845 ($)
- Duragloss 601/105 ($)
- Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax ($)
- Blackfire Crystal Seal ($$)

Polish
- Meguiars Ultimate Polish

Pre-Wax Cleaners
- Wolfgang Pre-Wax Paint Enhancer
- Duragloss 601
- Meguiars Ultimate Polish?

Lots of ways I can do this. Since I'm planning to do 3 cars, I'm thinking AIO might be the best route?

1) wash 2) clay 3) aio 4) (optional) formula 1 carnauba paste wax -- Q: Can I and should I top an AIO 12-24 hours later for more durability and a wetter look?

OR

1) wash 2) clay 3) polish? which polish should I use? meguiars ultimate polish? Is there a safer polish that doesn't stain anything? 4) duragloss 601/105 or Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax or Collinite #845

OR

1) wash 2) clay 3) pre wax cleaner 4) collinite #845 (or wolfgang or blackfire) (DO I NEED TO POLISH BEFORE PRE-WAX CLEANER?)

Which process is the best with the best products? If I go with the last one, do I really need to polish if I am using a pre wax paint cleaner (like wolfgang) and then I just follow up with a good sealant. wolfgang is kind of pricey so i'd like to go with another option if it can offer me similar durability / shine. All I see is compliments for wolfgang everywhere.

Q: Duragloss is cheap -- is it durable when using 601/105 together?
Q: Do you need a pre wax cleaner if you're polishing? Doesn't ultimate polish prepare the surface for wax/sealant? Any other EASY polish recommendations?

I'm thinking the best option would be:

1) wash 2) clay 3) polish (need cheap, easy to use recommendations) 4) collinite #845 or duragloss 601/105 or meguiars ultimate liquid wax (which one???)

OR can I skip a few steps and achieve the same results with an AIO? Please note these vehicles have never been detailed.
 
Whenever I get someone wanting to start with this paint polishing thing, I recommend the following:

Keep it simple. Start with a line that can cover a bit of ground.

This usually consists of:

Meguiar's-
Gold Class Shampoo
Mitts
Clay Bar Kit
Ultimate Compound
Ultimate Polish
Ultimate Liquid Wax, or Duragloss 111
Ultimate Quik Detailer
Ultimate Quik Wax
(If adding a random orbital polisher)
Porter Cable 7424xp
Meguiar's 5" backing plate
Lake country Hydrotech pads (4 cyan, 4 tangerine, 2 crimson).

If going by hand:
Gold Class Shampoo
Mits
Clay Bar Kit
Cleaner Wax (maroon bottle), or Duragloss 501
Quik Detailer
Quik Wax.
(If adding a random orbital)
Porter Cable 7424xp
6 white Lake Country polishing pads

Also Meguiar's foam applicators, and Supreme Shine microfiber towels.

Again, this is to keep things as simple as possible.

You're better off keeping the vehicle clean, with washing, and maintaining with Quik Detailer, and Quik Waxes (spray waxes) regularly, than trying to get a sealant or wax to shoulder such a burden on it's own.
 
I'll see where I can help and I'm sure others will as well soon.

direct said:
Q: What's the point of topping an LSP (including AIO) with another LSP? If I'm not mistaken, most LSP's need a clean surface to properly bond; so why do people top with LSP's like Collinite 845 on top of an AIO or a sealant? Does it actually make a difference in terms of durability -- and if so, how does it bond on top of another LSP?
Click to expand...

You don't have to top an LSP with another. Most of the time it's for appearance sake. My philosopy is to use one durable LSP, and then occasionally hit it with a spray wax after a wash to "spruce things up", but it isn't required if you used a durable LSP.

So the process is:

1) wash
2) clay
3) polish
4) pre wax cleaner
5) wax / sealant
Click to expand...

Unless you are using a coating, #4 isn't needed. When applying a sealant like 845, I go from the polish right to the LSP.

3/4/5 can be replaced by an AIO but is it actually as effective as doing all 3 steps separately? I'm trying to be as cost effective as possible with this detailing. I've looked into many products but am trying to decide between the ones listed below:
Click to expand...

An IO simply does 3 and 5, not 4 as there isn't a need. AIO's are waxes with some level of abrassives to clean/polish up the surface.

AIOs:
- Griot's Garage One Step Sealant ($)
- Blackfire Total Polish & Seal ($$)
- Wolfgang Uber AIO ($$)
- Duragloss 105 ($)

Sealants
- Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant ($$$)- Collinite #845 ($)
- Duragloss 601/105 ($)
- Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax ($)
- Blackfire Crystal Seal ($$)

Polish
- Meguiars Ultimate Polish
Click to expand...
So far so good...

Pre-Wax Cleaners
- Wolfgang Pre-Wax Paint Enhancer
- Duragloss 601
- Meguiars Ultimate Polish?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you're looking for as a "pre-wax" cleaner based on this list. Ultimate Polish is simply a mild finishing polish. Most "paint cleaners" are listed as such, or "paint prep". As mentioned before, they are often associated with coatings. Some are designed to be used in the place of a polish if you simply out to deep clean the paint and not do any correction. However, when polishing, they become redundant.
Lots of ways I can do this. Since I'm planning to do 3 cars, I'm thinking AIO might be the best route?

1) wash 2) clay 3) aio 4) (optional) formula 1 carnauba paste wax -- Q: Can I and should I top an AIO 12-24 hours later for more durability and a wetter look?

OR

1) wash 2) clay 3) polish? which polish should I use? meguiars ultimate polish? Is there a safer polish that doesn't stain anything? 4) duragloss 601/105 or Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax or Collinite #845

OR

1) wash 2) clay 3) pre wax cleaner 4) collinite #845 (or wolfgang or blackfire) (DO I NEED TO POLISH BEFORE PRE-WAX CLEANER?)

Which process is the best with the best products? If I go with the last one, do I really need to polish if I am using a pre wax paint cleaner (like wolfgang) and then I just follow up with a good sealant. wolfgang is kind of pricey so i'd like to go with another option if it can offer me similar durability / shine. All I see is compliments for wolfgang everywhere.

Q: Duragloss is cheap -- is it durable when using 601/105 together?
Q: Do you need a pre wax cleaner if you're polishing? Doesn't ultimate polish prepare the surface for wax/sealant? Any other EASY polish recommendations?

I'm thinking the best option would be:

1) wash 2) clay 3) polish (need cheap, easy to use recommendations) 4) collinite #845 or duragloss 601/105 or meguiars ultimate liquid wax (which one???)

OR can I skip a few steps and achieve the same results with an AIO? Please note these vehicles have never been detailed.
Click to expand...


To keep things simple a washing and claying are always needed. From there you can either go with the polish and then an LSP, or simply go with the AIO after you clay.

From my experience AIO's don't last nearly as long as traditional LSP's, so I don't use them. Others like the simplicity and simply do it more often, while you'll see other people here use the AIO as a polish because they like the abrasives in them, and then top with an LSP.

Since you are just catching the disease, I'd go with the most simple approach and build from there. I'd also start with the more economic products and then build a more expensive inventory as you grow in skill.

For cars with soft paint like your's, Meguiars Ultimate Polish is a good place to start as it's easy to work with. I also found it to work great on soft Toyota paint and keep it around for my wife's Highlander. 845 is a good LSP that is durable and looks great. Just be sure to read the frist few posts on the massive thread here about that product that explains the best way to use it.
 
Thank you for the detailed responses. So I think I'll stick with:

1) Wash (Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo & Chenille Wash Mitts w/ 2 buckets & grit guards)
2) Clay (Mother's Clay Kit)
3) Ultimate Polish with Random Orbital Polisher
4) Collinite #845 or Duragloss 601/105 Combo

I already have a gallon of Griot's Spray on Wax so I'd be maintaining with that. Q: Would using waterless car washes after going through a touchless car wash (during winter months when you really don't want to hand wash) cause swirls / scratches if its sealed with collinite or durogloss combo?

OR just wash, clay and AIO -- but I figure doing a separate polishing step should really bring out the shine in all the cars especially since they've never been polished. I've heard ultimate polish can stain plastic trim?
 
direct said:
Thank you for the detailed responses. So I think I'll stick with:

1) Wash (Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo & Chenille Wash Mitts w/ 2 buckets & grit guards)
2) Clay (Mother's Clay Kit)
3) Ultimate Polish with Random Orbital Polisher
4) Collinite #845 or Duragloss 601/105 Combo

I already have a gallon of Griot's Spray on Wax so I'd be maintaining with that. Q: Would using waterless car washes after going through a touchless car wash (during winter months when you really don't want to hand wash) cause swirls / scratches if its sealed with collinite or durogloss combo?

OR just wash, clay and AIO -- but I figure doing a separate polishing step should really bring out the shine in all the cars especially since they've never been polished. I've heard ultimate polish can stain plastic trim?
Click to expand...

You should be OK with the waterless washes after the touchless in the winter. Just be very careful and ensure your wash and dry media are soft and clean. Personally, I don't bother. I drive a black car, but have fully accepted the fact that between December and March, it will never be totally clean and live with what I can get from a touchless. It makes me really appreciate that first hand wash of Spring!

If you need to get through winter, I wouldn't use an AIO. The ones I've used only lasted a few weeks (6~8). That might not be a problem for someone who can top with a spray wax frequently or simply apply it again as needed, but my vehicles need to survive 4 months or longer and the AIO's I've tried so far just can't go the distance.
 
AIRS just don't tend to last, hence why many people top it with something else. My advice is to knock out those cars with whatever aio you choose then next time you wash, apply something else on it so you're splitting up the process a bit, and saves you some time.
 
As a true amateur (found autogeekonline.net about this time last year), I can't tell you which products work better than others, but I can tell you what worked for me. My vehicles are 2008 Acura MDX and a 2016 Toyota Tundra, both black, soft paint.

Here's my advice:

1. Don't clay with clay. Buy a clay mitt (Nanoskin was what I used). Maybe I'm impatient, but I'd rather spend 15 minutes with the mitt than two hours claying (which would entail me marring the paint, missing spots and dropping the clay). Seriously, the mitt requires no technique, and gives very gratifying results (you can feel the contaminants being removed with each wipe).

2. Use an easy to work with polish. HD Speed (technically an AIO) is was what I used. It has long work time and decent cut with the right pad. Being water-based is a plus too (you can spray your pad mid-pannel to increase work time). I'm sure there are other easy to use polishes (I've heard that Meg's 105 and 205, while great, are less easy to work with). Another nice thing about HD Speed is you don't have to tape your trim (it is non-staining... I taped the first time, then realized it was a total waste of time and have not taped since).

3. Buy a random orbital and lots of pads. I have a Griot's Garage 6. Apparently it has more power than a PC 7424. It works fast enough for me, as long as I use the right pads. I bought B&S orange (medium cut), blue (polish) and black (LSP). The orange cut well at speed 5, and finished up nice with a final pass at speed one. The blue I use for the now semi-annual minor correction. Buy lots of pads because (a) you'll probably push too hard and melt a few and (b) you'll use too much product and gum up your pads quickly.

4. No AIO will give you the durability of proper LSP. With HD Speed, you have to let it cure to get any durability (just like you do for HD Poxy). You won't let HD Speed cure though, since you'll be too eager to wipe off the haze to see if you've achieved the correction you want. I used HD Poxy in the summer, Collinite 845 last winter. Can't say I noticed a difference in appearance. Maybe it was the time of year, maybe they are both great LSPs?.

5. Buy Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Wax. You will find yourself addicted to the smooth slick feel of your post-correction paint. Meg's UQW gives that feel every time, and you using it as a drying aid will make you less paranoid about your MF leaving swirls. Better yet, buy the bulk version (Meguiar's Synthetic X-press Wax).

6. Buy two wash buckets, Meguiar's Gold Class wash, a grit guard, a good MF wash mitt and several MF towels. After doing all this, you won't want to put swirls in your paint, and you'll be surprised how long your paint stays nice with proper wash technique. You'll also become a true believer in Gold Class wash liquid.
 
I had a pearl white Optima and loved the paint on that car. Since you are working on 3 different cars, including a black Honda which can be a little challenging and want to stay cost effective I would do the following:

1) Wash however you want: 2-bucket or rinse less, just make sure you have the right equipment for either.

2) Clay: I would also use a clay towel and do this on the car twice a year.

3) All-in-One: I second HD Speed as it is super easy to use, gives fantastic results and gives decent longevity. My personal preference for this is a Lake Country green polishing pad on a dual action polisher. The green pad isn't the sharpest cutting pad, but it won't mar your black Honda paint and it is plenty good enough for your white cars.

4) Use a spray wax as a drying aid when you wash the car. This will maintain the protection and negate the need to "top" the all-in-one. Since you already have Griots Spray Wax (a nice one I have enjoyed using, and smells good enough to eat, but don't), you are already set.
 
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