First engine detail

cadd

New member
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
158
Reaction score
0
Hey guys.... Gonna finally try my hand at engine detaling next week. And just need a few tips on do's and dont's. I know I need to cover the alt. and any exposed wiring that may be of concern. Will any basic degreaser that I can pickup at my local auto store suffice, and I have heard conflicting stories on whether or not to run the engine a few minutes before starting.
Thanks..and may the detailing gods have mercy on all of us !!:xyxthumbs:
 
Stay away from Auto Zone brand engine degreaser, I used it and it turned black plastic parts such as the air cleaner box and radiator shroud white. Cheap APC such as Purple Power will turn cast aluminum white. I would suggest using some brushes and car wash soap or a good APC designed specifically for cars then top with a water based dressing.

If you must use an auto parts store product, I would suggest CD2 Engine Detailer. It will clean and dress all in the same application if the engine isn't too cruddy to begin with.

This was done with Gunk Engine Degreaser and topped with CD2 Engine detailer. It was one of my first engine details.
mybuickengine007-1.jpg
 
As far as engines go...I like P21S auto bathe and 303 aerospace protectant to dress it up. Its OK to run the engine just long enough to let it get WARM (about 2 min) to help let the degreaser agents work. I let it sit for a while, then agitate any heavier soiled areas, using LOW water pressure rinse off and either blow it dry with a leaf blower (low speed) or let it run for about 8-10 minutes with the hood latched (but not fully closed) in order for it to steam itself dry.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. One more quick question. I ordered some Megs Silicone free dressing. Is this safe to use on the plastic and rubber engine components ? The reason I asked is because I was watching a youtube video, and the guy ( no affiliation with Meguires) mentioned that to make sure you use a dressing that is non-flammable.
 
Copied and pasted this from another post I posted for a forum member.
Good luck :xyxthumbs:



Don't forget to cover your alternator and any other sensitive eletrical componets. Using a plastic bag to cover your alternator works well and so does aluminum foil for anything else. The foil allows you to wrap and mold around those tricky parts. Also don't forget to run your engine for a few minutes once your done hosing it down. An even better way is to quickly dry after rinsing, add your dressing and then running your engine with the hood closed. This will allow for drying of any water you missed and also for your dressing to soak in your plastics while providing nice even coverage.
Good luck!
 
Copied and pasted this from another post I posted for a forum member.
Good luck :xyxthumbs:



Don't forget to cover your alternator and any other sensitive eletrical componets. Using a plastic bag to cover your alternator works well and so does aluminum foil for anything else. The foil allows you to wrap and mold around those tricky parts. Also don't forget to run your engine for a few minutes once your done hosing it down. An even better way is to quickly dry after rinsing, add your dressing and then running your engine with the hood closed. This will allow for drying of any water you missed and also for your dressing to soak in your plastics while providing nice even coverage.
Good luck!

Just a couple more points that beginners might not realize:

NEVER concentrate water in any single area of the engine (or its electronics), period. (Most vehicles with HID exterior lighting have headlight housings that incorporate a rear molded moisture escape from the internal assembly. If water (washing or even a steady rain) is concentrated on that area for more than a few minutes; the electronics will short for that fixture & force replacement). BMW is notorious for this as are Nissan & Mercedes.

Older vehicles that are not fuel injected (carburetor/distributor cap in plain sight) should always have these parts covered up. If you're unable to cover them up then either don't clean the engine or .... if you're competent/confident in your skill set ...... let the vehicle run while cleaning the engine top. Not for any more time than it takes for you to clean the top manifold area though. Cool water in contact with a hot exhaust manifold can cause the exhaust manifold to crack.
 
My routine when detailing an engine:


  • Degrease the engine compartment in its entirety
  • After the use a soft bristled brush (Boar's hair in my case) & scrub all painted, delicate (computer module/electronics area), under side of hood and as much of the top side of the engine as is accessible
  • Rinse either with a hose or pressure washer (PSI should be set low enough that it isn't doing more than rinsing with mild pressure)
  • Continue brushing areas that may have been missed
  • Blow water from the engine compartment starting from the underside of the hood & working your way down
  • Apply dressing of choice (I prefer to use products NOT containing petroleum)
  • Close the hood without latching it
  • Wash or begin exterior process (if vehicle is being waxed then I prefer to blow the dressing off of the engine now. If vehicle is only being washed then dressing would be blown out BEFORE the wash)
  • After dressing has blown off ..... use a MF towel to dab any standing water missed as well as dressing
  • Finish the exterior of the vehicle
  • Dab any dressing residue from the engine compartment before the final wipe down of the exterior
DONE. :xyxthumbs:
 
Back
Top