First Impression: Optimum Microfiber Polishing Pads

[Kevin Brown]

...the mf its self has no cut.

Mmm... no more or less than any other pad, disc, sandpaper sheet, saw, or knife.... until pressure is applied to the item as it is put into motion across a surface. Even though the fibers are very fine, they'll certainly remove paint once they're used in tandem with a buffing liquid (even one that has no added abrasive).

The only reason to fluff the fibers and blow out the pads between panels is to work clean, and cleaning on the fly is what you're doing that for...you're removing spent polish, removed paint, and contaminants. Keeping the fibers fluffed is not the goal...working clean is the goal.

Keeping the fibers clean and "fluffy" (separated from one another) is important to the overall performance of the pad, regardless the brand. You'll get a consistently deep cut and less marring when the fibers are not stuck (or bundled) together.

Additionally, with fluffed or non-bundled fibers, there is more potential material available to scrub the surface at any given time, so paint can be removed more rapidly, and in a consistent manner.

This is why your pads (or the Meguiar's discs for that matter) will work well initially via rotary, and then fall off in performance as they load with abraded residue, or as the fibers bundle together (bound by liquid or abraded goop, twisting, or mechanical attachment due to the gripping power of the buffing liquid's abrasive particles).

To be clear, "fall off in performance" refers to consistency of the cut; if some of the fibers were to bind together, those fibers would likely cut deeper or wider than non-bound fibers.

For a visual... if we were to pair two individual fibers together via twisting, and repeated this across the entire face of the disc, there would be half as many independent fibers available to scrub paint. The newly formed fibers would be twice as thick, so not as many could fit side-by-side, effectively doubling the pressure placed atop each fiber. Therefore, it is likely that we would see deeper cutting action, but more rapid coating of each fiber (we'd have to do the math on the circumference of the fibers to be sure). There's also the void area between each fiber to consider... as less fibers are able to set next to each other, there is more room for residue to reside. Lots to consider!

Assuming that the fibers would not be able to fully and repeatedly spin (allowing abraded paint residue to evenly coat the entire circumference of each fiber), we could just about bank on the fact that there would be an inconsistent cutting of the surface.

Fluffy (or separated) fibers also act as a suspension of sorts, enabling the fibers to better contour to a surface (all other things being equal... applied pressure, speed, etc.)

Sorry if this is confusing... wrote it at a time I should have been sleeping!

 

[umi000]

As always, your posts are informative, interesting, and insightful, Kevin! :urtheman:

 

[Chris Thomas]

Mmm... no more or less than any other pad, disc, sandpaper sheet, saw, or knife.... until pressure is applied to the item as it is put into motion across a surface. Even though the fibers are very fine, they'll certainly remove paint once they're used in tandem with a buffing liquid (even one that has no added abrasive).

I meant in comparison to foam that varies in degrees of cut from aggressive to finishing. The fact that both cutting and finishing microfiber pads have the same face material infers product dependent controlled cutting ability. Of course there is a non uniform "scratching" ability with no buffing liquid applied but that would be outside correct usage parameters and not really relevant in usage instructions.

Keeping the fibers clean and "fluffy" (separated from one another) is important to the overall performance of the pad, regardless the brand. You'll get a consistently deep cut and less marring when the fibers are not stuck (or bundled) together.

Additionally, with fluffed or non-bundled fibers, there is more potential material available to scrub the surface at any given time, so paint can be removed more rapidly, and in a consistent manner.

This is why your pads (or the Meguiar's discs for that matter) will work well initially via rotary, and then fall off in performance as they load with abraded residue, or as the fibers bundle together (bound by liquid or abraded goop, twisting, or mechanical attachment due to the gripping power of the buffing liquid's abrasive particles).

To be clear, "fall off in performance" refers to consistency of the cut; if some of the fibers were to bind together, those fibers would likely cut deeper or wider than non-bound fibers.

For a visual... if we were to pair two individual fibers together via twisting, and repeated this across the entire face of the disc, there would be half as many independent fibers available to scrub paint. The newly formed fibers would be twice as thick, so not as many could fit side-by-side, effectively doubling the pressure placed atop each fiber. Therefore, it is likely that we would see deeper cutting action, but more rapid coating of each fiber (we'd have to do the math on the circumference of the fibers to be sure). There's also the void area between each fiber to consider... as less fibers are able to set next to each other, there is more room for residue to reside. Lots to consider!

Assuming that the fibers would not be able to fully and repeatedly spin (allowing abraded paint residue to evenly coat the entire circumference of each fiber), we could just about bank on the fact that there would be an inconsistent cutting of the surface.

Fluffy (or separated) fibers also act as a suspension of sorts, enabling the fibers to better contour to a surface (all other things being equal... applied pressure, speed, etc.)

Sorry if this is confusing... wrote it at a time I should have been sleeping!

I think we're saying the same thing but your emphasis is on separation while I feel separation is a attribute of being clean. Performance will fall off with any dirty pad (foam, wool, of microfiber) so working clean is important with all pads and machines. Also, the rotary would have more of a tendency to uniformly flatten the fibers vs the DA twisting some fibers around one another due to its random motion. One things you'll find (and like) about using our spray polishes with these pads is that there is much less matting than with pastes and as you use up the product during final section passes, the fibers actually start to refluff on their own unless over saturated. This phenomenon is exactly why I make the distinction that the goal is a clean pad and not "fluffed" fibers as they can be fluffy even when soiled.




Sent from my IPhone

 

[silverfox]

I wish there was a spray product that actually has less cut than Hyper Polish....many times, I'd like to finish down with a MF pad/polish....to the same level as what I can do with foam pad/polish. Perhaps its my technique. Not sure.

Seems the MF pad revolution (Megs/Optimum) works great for correcting....but foam still finishes down for FINAL finishing better. I was hoping that the finishing piece of the MF puzzle would have been solved at this point to compete, if not exceed using foam for final finishing or even jeweling.

I'm still not buying the argument that MF cannot finish down as well as foam because existing MF pads are simply too aggressive for that purpose...its hard for me to wrap my mind around that. MF feels so much softer than any foam....perhaps a real "polishing for dummies" explanation would help.

 

[Chris Thomas]

...I wish there was a spray product that actually has less cut than Hyper Polish...

There is...GPSrops:

 

[silverfox]

Chris...its on my short list...!!...maybe its the missing piece I've been looking for.

 

[RaskyR1]

I wish there was a spray product that actually has less cut than Hyper Polish....many times, I'd like to finish down with a MF pad/polish....to the same level as what I can do with foam pad/polish. Perhaps its my technique. Not sure.

Seems the MF pad revolution (Megs/Optimum) works great for correcting....but foam still finishes down for FINAL finishing better. I was hoping that the finishing piece of the MF puzzle would have been solved at this point to compete, if not exceed using foam for final finishing or even jeweling.

I'm still not buying the argument that MF cannot finish down as well as foam because existing MF pads are simply too aggressive for that purpose...its hard for me to wrap my mind around that. MF feels so much softer than any foam....perhaps a real "polishing for dummies" explanation would help.

MF has always had more bite then foam IMO. This is very apparent when trying to polish by hand...cotton applicators have more bite then foam too.


On harder paints the MF pads will probably finish down pretty well

 

[Ron Atchison]

Well get it off your short list and onto the ordered list!!!!! Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[budinsc]

nick, as you know i just bought 4 3"ers yesterday. will try them with mez micro polish when they arrive and send you a note.
ps tks for giving me the free shipping code! saved me $7.99.

budinsc

 

[Nick McKees37]

nick, as you know i just bought 4 3"ers yesterday. will try them with mez micro polish when they arrive and send you a note.
ps tks for giving me the free shipping code! saved me $7.99.

budinsc

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts! :dblthumb2:

 

[Setec Astronomy]

One of the things you'll find (and like) about using our spray polishes with these pads is that there is much less matting than with pastes and as you use up the product during final section passes, the fibers actually start to refluff on their own unless over saturated.

So this once again begs the question, were the MF pads the impetus for the development of the spray polishes, even though the polishes came out well before the pads?

 

[Kevin Brown]

I meant in comparison to foam that varies in degrees of cut from aggressive to finishing...

Oh.

Of course there is a non uniform "scratching" ability with no buffing liquid applied, but that would be outside correct usage parameters and not really relevant in usage instructions.

Except that you weren't referring to usage instructions in this case, you were referring to your reasons for keeping the pad fluffed.

I think we're saying the same thing, but your emphasis is on separation while I feel separation is a attribute of being clean...

I hope my comments weren't out of line, but guys that have little or no experience using microfiber discs should know that the microfiber material certainly can affect the paint surface in a big way.

...Also, the rotary would have more of a tendency to uniformly flatten the fibers vs the DA twisting some fibers around one another due to its random motion.

Yes. There is a difference as to how the fibers pack, even when comparing random orbital to random orbital. With the rotary, the fibers contacting the paint are usually loaded with abraded residue and spent buffing liquid, yet immediately below those fibers, they are relatively clean. This is especially apparent when buffing with wool pads that are thick with wool.

With a random orbital, the matting of the fibers can vary depending upon how much rotation of the backing plate exists. If there's not much rotation, the fibers aren't going to lay in a manner similar to how they might if used with a rotary. With lots of rotation, the similarity rises.

Stroke size plays a part, too.

Movements created by forced rotation machines vary. The Flex XC 3401 VRG essentially "machine-guns" the backing plate inward and outward as it forces backing plate rotation, so there's quite a potential to wiggle the fibers apart during that time.

One things you'll find (and like) about using our spray polishes with these pads is that there is much less matting than with pastes and as you use up the product during final section passes, the fibers actually start to refluff on their own unless over saturated.

Water spritzing when using typical buffing liquids nets a similar effect, and will eventually make for a very clean pad as well.
Its effects are partly tied to how much buffing liquid is present in the pad prior to spritzing.

I do look forward to trying the sprays. Coming from Dr G., I suspect that the performance is world-class.
I enjoy seeing him, although it seems limited to once per year, and the visit brief.

 

[2old2change]

I have added the water spritzing to my m/f use and I'm definitely impressed with the results. Product last longer and pad stays cleaner. Definitely a win-win deal.

 

[Chris Thomas]

So this once again begs the question, were the MF pads the impetus for the development of the spray polishes, even though the polishes came out well before the pads?

No, the sprays were born from a problem solving solution for one of our OEM clients and we introduced them to consumers because they rock. We tweaked them a bit recently to work well with the MF pads because they are a VERY good fit.

Except that you weren't referring to usage instructions in this case, you were referring to your reasons for keeping the pad fluffed.

I'm sorry I'm not being clear. Something seems to always get lost in text, but I was saying that the goal is not to fluff, but instead to keep the pad clean...fluff without clean is no good. Fluff is an attribute of clean...but a dirty pad will fluff too and still be less effective.

I hope my comments weren't out of line, but guys that have little or no experience using microfiber discs should know that the microfiber material certainly can affect the paint surface in a big way.

Not at all! I am glad you got involved in the conversation. Your experiece with mf pads is certainly greater than mine. The only point I wanted to make is that between sections, the pads should be blown out, a pad washer used, or at least cleaned on the fly with a damp MF and not just fluffed with a brush for best performance.

Yes. There is a difference as to how the fibers pack, even when comparing random orbital to random orbital. With the rotary, the fibers contacting the paint are usually loaded with abraded residue and spent buffing liquid, yet immediately below those fibers, they are relatively clean. This is especially apparent when buffing with wool pads that are thick with wool.

I completely agree. Many of the people buying mf pads are inexperienced with wool though...so, that's why I feel it's important to advocate working clean as we introduce these pads. You can get by with more build up on a foam pad (I think you should clean foam between sections too), but with the mf pads performance will fall off quickly as they build up. Just like we try to educate our detailing customers about proper techniques...with a new product introduction I feel it's important to help everyone use them properly to get the best results.

I do look forward to trying the sprays. Coming from Dr G., I suspect that the performance is world-class.
I enjoy seeing him, although it seems limited to once per year, and the visit brief.

I'm not sure why, but I assumed you had tried them, you are always on top of new stuff and I love to read your first impressions as they are very thorough. PM me and I will get some out to you.

 

[Kevin Brown]

Regarding clean pads, as taken from an article I wrote about Pad Priming and Supplemental Wetting Agents:

A CLEAN SWEEP.

Since today’s polishing technology does not allow us to eliminate abraded paint residue from the buffing liquid after each cycle, it is important to keep our pads clean. Sometimes the residue’s effects are negligible, but other times it can wreak havoc on a paint surface. In fact, this type of contamination can cause scouring so fine that it seems no pad & polish combination will deliver stellar polishing results. When this occurs, it can really shake your confidence!

This sort of thing happens any time we use one item to remove material from another. A rake that becomes clogged with leaves can no longer gather them efficiently… a file clogged with shavings can no longer remove material in an even manner (if at all). In most cases, the tool is still usable, but contamination slows or halts progress altogether. Stuck-on debris can even ruin a surface. Can you imagine the damage caused by a file that has become loaded with aluminum shavings? How about a piece of sandpaper packed with pills of freshly sanded paint?

In the case of buffing pads, once they have become clogged with abraded residue and spent abrasives, we tend to see a less than perfect finish. When using rotary machines, we see swirls in the paint surface: these are scratches that are long and curved. When using dual-action or orbital machines, we see scouring or hazing of the paint surface: this is simply caused by an accumulation of scratches that are short and curved, and layered upon each other.

Wouldn’t it be nice to know whether the residue featured sharp, hard points and edges similar to the type found on shards of glass? What if instead it was pulverized into a soft, powder-like substance? If we had this sort of information, perhaps it would help us to make choices as to the type of pad we should use and how often it should be cleaned. We might even get some insight as to which buffing liquid would work best for the situation.

On that note, I’ll leave you to ponder whether or not the solvents and other liquids designed into a buffing liquid help to dissolve the abraded paint remnants. At the minimum, they likely coat the residue and other contaminants, perhaps curtailing some of their negative effects. For now, we’ll have to rely upon common sense cleaning of our pads.

USE A RAKE TO COMB YOUR HAIR? I DON’T THINK SO!

Imagine having to remove some sort of gritty, oily, caked on goop from your hair using nothing more than a common leaf rake. For guys like me, imagining a full head of hair is merely a harsh reminder of what once was, but I digress. For the hairy-headed among us, think about how futile such an attempt might be.

Unless the rake’s teeth were able to force their way between the hairs and strip the goop away, all that would likely occur is perhaps a haphazard redo of your 'do! I think it’s pretty safe to say that most of the hair on your head would stay packed tightly together. The probability of cleaning and separating thousands of hair strands using the comparatively thick and flimsy raking teeth is undoubtedly very low.

Yet, in the midst of a polishing session, many of us attempt to clean our buffing pads using nothing more than a run of the mill, nylon bristled brush. Unless the pad is coated in dry or crusty residue, agitating the fibers or pores of a pad won’t do a whole lot of good. In fact, other than seeing some foam or fibrous pad remnants and a few crusty residue bits, I don’t recall seeing any oil or grease droppings oozing from the brush. Isn’t there a better way to clean foam, microfiber, or microfinger pads on the fly?

Back to the hair: I suppose that if we didn’t have shampoo and water handy, most of use would reach for a towel in an attempt to wipe the goop away. Perhaps we would first wipe our hair with the towel, then agitate it with a brush, and repeat both steps until we were satisfied that we had removed all we could. In fact, lots of us use this exact method for cleaning our pads when we are polishing paint using random orbital machines. First, we agitate the pad with a brush. Then, we place the face of the pad against a towel and run the machine until the pad looks pretty clean. Some guys will go one step further and mist the pad with water, then repeat the towel step (I do this while cutting, but never for finishing). Three steps later, the pad usually looks pretty darned good! Sounds like a lot of work, and it is. Luckily, there is a much better way.

The best way to clean a buffing pad in the midst of a polishing session is to blow it clean using compressed air. A high-pressure blast of air aimed directly at the pad’s face loosens stuck-on contaminants, and will have no problem separating fibers or cleaning pores with ease. Compressed air works incredibly well on wool pads, so the need to spur a pad is virtually eliminated. With air, there’s no way I’m transferring trace amounts of plastic or metal onto my pads as I clean them. One less big deal to worry about.

Most detailers and paint polishing enthusiasts don’t keep a portable air compressor in their polishing kits, so perhaps it’s not a reasonable option for most folks right now. But rest assured, as our pads become more fibrous and our compounds feature finer and more capable abrasives, you’re going to need an air compressor.

So the next time the desire hits to buy that “must have” polishing machine, consider purchasing a small air compressor instead. Once you make the switch, you may just realize that you didn’t need that new machine after all.

 

[Kevin Brown]

More from the article pertaining to keeping pads clean:

WATER SPRITZING… THE NITROUS OF PAINT POLISHING?

A large portion of this article touts the benefits of pad priming. However, once a pad has become excessively packed with abrasive particles and abraded paint residue, cutting power can decrease rapidly. Not only is cutting power affected, so too are all other positive aspects associated with having a clean buffing pad. Rather than having to constantly clean the pad or exchange it for a fresh one, what is a buffing guru to do?

What if I told you that by spritzing a bit of water onto the paint, you could:

• Thoroughly clean the pad
  
• Use less compound
  
• Extend the buffing cycle by 200-300%
  
• Increase cutting & leveling ability by 30-50%
  
• Increase pad rotation when using a random orbital machine

It sounds too good to be true, but it is true, and it works with all types of pads!

Supplemental wetting agents, or wetting agents, are liquids that are sprayed onto the paint surface during polishing to moisten the pad and paint surface. They are used in addition to buffing compounds or polishes, and can be used when polishing using any type of buffing machine.

When used correctly, a wetting agent can dramatically increase cutting power and extend the amount of time an application of buffing liquid can be used before additional liquid is needed. A wetting agent can also help to keep buffing pads clean. In fact, it can clean a pad much better than agitating it using a nylon bristled brush, or rubbing a towel against it.

Wetting agents can be used with all types of pads including foam, wool, wool blends, Surbuf® Microfinger Pads, and Meguiar’s® DA Microfiber Pads.
Although a wetting agent could be categorized as a lubricant, in this case its intended purpose is to control the bond between the abrasive grains and the buffing pad, not to increase slipperiness between the pad and paint surface. Regardless the intent, a wetting agent will serve double duty, working as an “abrasive grain bond-controller”, and as a surface lubricant.

Purified water is probably the most popular wetting agent, but a paint maintenance spray can also be used. Although a paint maintenance spray may seem to be the natural choice for this task, it may not always be the best choice. Some maintenance sprays are designed to evaporate more rapidly than plain water, while others contain ingredients that can help to clean, beautify, or protect a paint surface. Oftentimes, these additives can form a barrier, making it more difficult for abrasives to scrub paint away. For these reasons, purified water is an ideal supplemental wetting agent because it can evaporate from the surface completely, leaving nothing behind that could affect polishing performance.

Note: Occasionally, an added bit of slipperiness can be a benefit. I have used Meguiar’s Last Touch Detail Spray (1:1 dilution) in conjunction with Surbuf pads and various Meguiar’s compounds to pick up a bit more backing plate rotation, thus improving leveling ability when using my random orbital.

Compared to lubricants that are typically used in buffing compounds and polishes, most wetting agents tend to evaporate rather quickly. Plus, since they are usually very thin in viscosity, wetting agents can fling or splatter, especially if there happens to be a lot of pad rotation. For these reasons, the lubrication supplied by a wetting agent can be very short lived.

Perhaps it is best to think of a wetting agent as being similar to a lubricant that has been designed for use during the drilling or sawing of metals. These types of lubricants are commonly used to minimize the damaging effects of friction-induced heat. They are also used to keep metal shavings from packing into the drill shank or saw teeth by flushing them away.

Although we are not necessarily trying to control the level of heat generated by polishing, we are concerned with maximizing the pad and compound’s cutting power. In order to keep cutting power at the highest level, sometimes the pad must be purged of the abrasive grains and paint residue that have become tightly packed onto the pad. If the compound is fresh and has some obvious cutting ability left, there is no need to waste it by blowing, scrubbing, or rubbing it away. A wetting agent will help to loosen and then redistribute the compound.

Note: If the pad has become laden with debris, you should consider cleaning the pad before using a wetting agent. Do not use a wetting agent at the onset of the buffing cycle because it will dilute the buffing liquid and cause it to splatter. It can also rinse away precious lubricating agents… in a hurry!

It’s pretty easy to tell when it’s time to use a wetting agent. Usually, the polish seems to “flash” or disappear from the paint surface, and cutting ability diminishes almost completely. After cutting stops, scouring of the surface sometimes begins. When this occurs, our natural inclination is to add more polish or increase downward pressure on the machine. Adding more product can help initially, but the excess polish inevitably clumps onto the pad and then rolls off, forming spheres of compound and paint residue that can become trapped between the pad and paint surface. This can really make a mess of a freshly polished surface, especially if you’ve increased downward pressure.

A pad face that is completely covered in tightly packed compound loses its ability to squeegee away compound and abraded residue from the paint surface. Instead, the pad rides atop it. Known as gumming, this phenomenon can be very frustrating to deal with because it continue occur until the pad is cleaned or replaced, or the gumming is manually wiped away.

Fortunately, a wetting agent can also help to eliminate gumming issues. As the wetting agent loosens excess buffing compound and residue from the pad, the pad face becomes exposed once again, thus allowing its pore or fibrous structure to whisk the gummy stuff away.

After the face of the pad has been purged of excess buffing liquid, there will very likely be a lot of polish sitting atop the paint surface. It is therefore important to carefully inspect and regularly clean the edge of the pad to make sure it doesn’t become laden with an excessive amount of debris. This happens as the pad moves across the paint and its edge works as a squeegee, gathering up whatever happens to be in its way. The accumulation of spent abrasives, buffing liquid, and paint residue can clump along the pad’s edge, potentially scouring an otherwise pristinely polished surface.

When using buffing pads featuring strings or fibers, a wetting agent can help to loosen stuck-on buffing compound and paint residue. It can also find its way into and between each fiber, effectively making the fibers more pliable by breaking the friction lock they have on each other. With the newfound wiggle room created by the liquid, the fibers are able readjust positioning in relation to each other.

As the wetting agent becomes displaced via pressure, evaporation, or by absorption into the pad, the fibers are able to pack tightly against each other. This phenomenon effectively creates a pad featuring a higher density of fibrous material, if only for brief periods of time. As the pad once again scrubs material from the paint surface and becomes coated with buffing compound and paint residue, it must be cleaned again.

Although the benefits of a wetting agent can be short lived when used with these types of pads, what a difference it can make! The increase in cutting power and leveling ability can be jaw dropping; this is especially true when a rotary machine is paired with a wool buffing pad, or when a random orbital machine is outfitted with either a Meguiar’s DA Microfiber Cutting Disc, or a Surbuf Microfingers Pad.

Another huge benefit: wetting agents can help to keep pads clean. This is especially true when the pad is rotating at a high rate of speed. As the pad rotates, attached compounds, liquids, loose fibers, and debris are essentially flung from the pad. Although this can create a messy environment at times, pad debris, compound splatter, and dust can be minimized through diligent pad cleaning, and adjustments to the amount of compound being added between cleanings.

 

[2old2change]

I can still remember the first time while using the m/f cutting pad I spritzed a panel with water after a couple of passes. It was like someone had added compound to the surface. Upon inspection of the pad it looked cleaner and kind of fluffed up a little. Now when I clean the pad with compressed air I spritz first to accelerate the process and end up with a cleaner pad. Thanks again for sharing this info.

 

[Kevin Brown]

... Many times, I'd like to finish down with a MF pad/polish....to the same level as what I can do with foam pad/polish. Perhaps its my technique. Not sure.

Seems the MF pad revolution works great for correcting....but foam still finishes down for FINAL finishing better. I was hoping that the finishing piece of the MF puzzle would have been solved at this point to compete, if not exceed using foam for final finishing or even jeweling.

I'm still not buying the argument that MF cannot finish down as well as foam because existing MF pads are simply too aggressive for that purpose...its hard for me to wrap my mind around that. MF feels so much softer than any foam....perhaps a real "polishing for dummies" explanation would help.

I will try. I just sent this info to a friend yesterday, and recalled that you asked about final polishing with a microfiber disc.

Certainly a microfiber disc can rival a foam pad in terms of finishing ability.

However, I have seen what you speak of in that, on some paints it seems that no matter what you do, micro-marring seems to form across the paint's surface when using a microfiber disc.

Keep in mind that when using a foam pad featuring a flat face, for the most part, all of the foam is lined up in a single plane (the foam face is lying at the same level). Assuming the foam itself is not overly stiff or abrasive, nor impregnated with some sort of abrasive residue, particle, or substance, the foam should simply act as a squeegee, or applicator.

As the machine moves the pad, the polish is distributed across the paint, and the pad scuttles it along. Some of the buffing liquid will inevitably attach to the membrane structure of the pad across its face. If the buffing liquid contains any sort of abrasive media, then it will affect the paint surface more aggressively than the liquid that is not attached to the face. This is because it is moving at maximum speed (tied directly to the pad), and it is positioned between the pad and the paint. So, user applied pressure and lateral machine motion forces the liquid into the paint.

The other thing to consider is that, since some of the membranes are structurally tied together, they tend to move in tandem. As the pad encounters an obstacle or variance in the polishing surface, the connected foam pulls and lifts or pulls and drops the piece of foam directly next to it. Due to this dynamic, foam pads likely do not have large variances in pressure, at least from one membrane to the next. If you think about the tracks used on tanks and bulldozers, you'll get a better visual. It's not the same thing because the wheels are riding atop the track (essentially the tracks are creating a flat road, or they're distributing the weight of the vehicle... look at it however you'd like).

Microfiber discs on the other hand, do not enjoy this dynamic. So, a single strand placed next to another gets no such "tow-along" benefit. In addition, there really isn't a squeegee-like action when using a microfiber disc, at least not like you'd get when using a foam pad. This is because the fibers lack a firm structure (as just mentioned), and there's nothing to tie them together (they are not connected to one another like the membrane structure of a foam pad). Instead, the polish usually attaches to the microfiber material, and goes along for the ride.

In the case of the microfiber discs, the material is much finer than the membrane structure of even a 100PPI foam finishing pad (PPI ratings can be misleading, because the walls of the pad can vary in thickness, and the foam materials can vary in rigidity). Therefore, the microfibers won't cause any noticeable marring, unless they're placed under an unusual amount of pressure.

Unfortunately, therein lies the issue... in order for the microfiber material to cut evenly, we have to place enough pressure upon the pad to create a leveled face. Otherwise, we have to rely upon the fibers being coated with polish, and hope that they'll drag the polish across the surface in an even manner. It might eventually do that, but it sure could take a long time. It would be like trying to wipe away wax from the paint surface using a microfiber, and never adjusting the pressure on stubborn areas. To eliminate the stubborn wax, you'd have to rub repeatedly until the wax was eliminated, and all that rubbing could be detrimental to the finish on areas that have no wax buildup.

Once a microfiber strand has polish attached to it, it can be difficult for the particle to release from it. If the polish contains abrasive particles, and the particles clump together, the clumps will cut deeper or wider, and you'll see the cuts in the form of micro-marring.

This is why it's often best to prime the finishing pad with the buffing liquid, then blow it clean (or eliminate as much polish as you can by pressing the face of the disc against a microfiber towel and run the machine for several seconds). The goal is to get extremely even coverage of the microfibers, coating them with an evenly applied amount of buffing liquid. Once you're certain that the fibers are well primed, use only a minute amount of polish. Enough so that there is enough present to polish the surface (you want a thin layer of buffing liquid between the fibers and the paint). If the polish contains abrasive particles, we ideally want them to roll about, not drag along with the pad at speed.

A slow speed setting will deliver a better result than a fast speed setting. A minimal amount of backing plate rotation is desirable, as opposed to rapid rotation. It's all about moving the fibers slowly, so they can adjust positioning rather than forcing their way through obstacles (curves in the polishing surface).

Finally, a large diameter disc will finish better than a small diameter disc, as there is more surface area available to load abraded paint residue.

Hard to put this into words for you.

 

[Ron Atchison]

Here are my first impressions of the new MF pads. I would say they are mixed and align with what Kevin is stating on expected end results.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/43582-optimum-compound-polish-ii.html

 

[Cmich325i]

So I decided to try the Optimum Polishing MF pads. I bought 3 on one of my last orders through AG.

I was probably 55% through polishing a black G wagon and the mf portion peels off from the foam. One pad on the first use - using a makita on speeds ranging between 1.5 and 2.5. I was polishing the roof when it happened. I was polishing the car with menzerna 1500/SIP and the buffer starts hopping- I checked the pad only to realize that the mf was halfway peeled off ... I was checking the pad regularly and washed it once in the grit guart pad washer halfway through... I was using high compressed air to fluf the fibers from time to time.

In anycase, the microfiber separated from the foam. There was very little heat - I was checking it with my hand every few minutes of use and I was also touching the paint.

Fortunately I had 2 extras so I slapped on another pad and kept working. The second pad was also starting to break down - as you can see although the glue did not fail, the mf was separating with a thin layer of foam.

I like the idea, but I can't say that I can afford to use 2 pads per car. The Meguiars MF pads, although not desiged for an orbital, seemed to hold up better for me. I was able to go through 2 cars ( on the maroon cutting pad) before it started to show signs of wear.

Maybe I am not using the product the way it was meant to be used... I washed the pad once and kept using it after I spun it dry and fluffed it with high compressed air; I was not going over 2.5 speed on a makita buffer and most of the panels on the car are flat (mercedes G wagon.)

I will admit that I definitely like the idea of using a MF polishing pad. You definitely use less product and you get better results in a shorter amount of time. I can't say anything bad about the results of the actual product, however I do have a problem with the reliability/longevity of it...