First No Rinse Wash - And Used Garry Dean's Method

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kappy
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glen e said:
LOL thank you...I always remember a comment made by Brock Yates in a issue of 1978 Car and Driver and could not agree more:

"the best aftermarket wheel is one that shows a lot of the caliper and swept disc, and can be cleaned with one swipe of the washmitt"...

I never forgot that....
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What wheel would that be, LOL! I know this, the classic Corvette rallye wheel is VERY EASY to clean IMO! So not only is that wheel easy to clean it still stands the test of time like a true classic does. Its so easy to change the look of the wheel depending upon which trim ring you use (stock one which is a natrual metal finish, aftermarket ones like those JC Whitney used to sell and those that fit on the inside of the lip) and then there's the centercaps, stock turbine, 68' police car caps and the 67' Corvette disc brake caps....and you can paint the steel wheel body color if you'd like, its up to you!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
ONR Recommends 1oz per 2 Gallons but I can get away with washing an entire car with 1 Gallon if I use the Gerry Dean method.

I just let my clean towel soak in the mixture without ever reintroducing the dirty towel back in the solution.
 
I use both 2BM and GD when I wash my wagon. I mix up a gal. of rinseless and wash the roof and greenhouse and wheels (separate mitt for wheels) 2BM style, then mix up another gal. and do the rest of the car GD style.

Why? I'm not sure. I think there are certain parts of the car where I prefer a mitt.
 
Kappy said:
Today was the first time I attempted any detailing on my car since I got it a few weeks ago, which was also about the time I joined the forum. After reviewing various recommended options for washing a car, I decided to give the Garry Dean one-bucket-multiple-towels method a chance.

I used the Optimum No Rinse, instead of Garry Dean's Ultimate Detail Juice, and it couldn't have been easier. I was able to wash the car in the garage, with the door open, and barely broke a sweat. This is really the first time I got up close and personal with the car, and the end result is that it looks fantastic, other than dealer inflicted swirls from cleaning the car after sitting on the lot for a year, and a scratch or two that brought me to this forum in the first place.

Some observations:

The Optimum No Rinse smells very good.

Garry Dean must use a thinner towel than the ones I bought for this purpose - The Super Soft Deluxe Microfiber towels from AG - because I had trouble keeping the towel from unfolding while working with it.

The towels I used seemed super-soft, as their name implies, but I can't really tell if I added any scratches because the finish is already in need of some help. I hope not because it seems like a really good towel for something like this, and reasonably priced.

I should have ordered my Murano with the Cherry Picker option so I could reach the top. :)

It takes much less time to wash the car, than it does to explain to your neighbor what you're doing and why.

I'm not sure what I would do if my tires and wheels were much dirtier than they were. As it is, I cheated a little by rinsing the car this morning before washing, just to ensure that I wouldn't be scratching it with any dirt or dust. If I continue to rinse the car before washing, I might as well do some tire cleaning at the same time. Otherwise, this might be the perfect place for some very inexpensive microfiber towels, which would be used once or twice and probably pitched.

Is there any kind of shelf life for a spray bottle of detailer?I mixed some of the ONR with water so I could spray the car as I washed it, and have about half a bottle of it left.

I honestly think the car looks better than when I got it. Before I took possession the dealer did a little minor repair to the paint in one small area and I can't even tell where that was. On the other hand, now I found a spot that looks like something spilled on the car and left streaks, which I never noticed until today. I tried to take some photos but couldn't get the streaks to show up so I'll try again in different light tomorrow.

I have no idea if there's wax or some other finish on the car. Water appears to bead up, and the car shines like crazy, but I know that doesn't necessarily indicate wax. I plan on claying the car at some point, and trying to correct the paint, and didn't know if I have to be concerned about wax/finish removal as well.

Anyway, even though I'm new to all of this, I would still recommend this method of car washing. In the past, when I didn't go to the car wash, I used to wash my cars with a bucket of soapy water, like a lot of people, and I think the no rinse method was easier and required less clean up.
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Kappy - what have you ended using for MF towels?
 
cleanmycorolla said:
I'm not him, but you can use chinchillas, blue rolled edge, gold plush Jrs, basically any plush towel..
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Thanks! I'm new to true car care and hustling to get caught up. I'll confess that the multitude of options makes this confusing at times. So, the Cobra Jrs (360 gsm) are a good option? I've been using Ultra plush 530's and they are challenging to keep folded (I use one per panel and typically flip to a new side after each pass).
 
I had been using some blue towels with rolled edges but I'm starting to see small scratches in the paint. I don't know if it's the towels or my technique, or the fact that the Nissan paint scratches if you stare at it for too long. :laughing:

I'm going to try some edgeless towels recommended by a local detailer, as well as several people on the forum, but don't want to use them until I polish the paint and remove the existing scratches. That's the only way I'll be able to tell if new towels make a difference or not.
 
For wheels and tires, just get some optimum power clean and a mothers wheel brush. Most of the time the power clean isn't even necessary, ONR is amazing on wheels, just dip the mothers brush in the left over ONR solution and just wash them. If they're really really dirty just spray some power clean on the wheel and tires and wash them down. As for drying wheels and tires I have some old 25x36 gold drying towel I got at K-mart about 6 years ago and it works great.
 
Honestly, I think wheel cleaning is a weakness of the Garry Dean method, although they will certainly look presentable when you are done. I'm one of those guys who will take a very dirty car to the coin op and then do the Garry Dean method. That's my opportunity to really attack the wheels and get the crud out. Its amazing how much stuff comes out if you haven't taken the car to the coin-op for awhile.

I use the cheapest possible microfiber towels and I spritz the surface first. I like to use a different brand for the spritzer than the main ingredient, in hopes that what one brand doesn't have, the other will. At the moment, that's Turtlewax rinseless for spritzer and Duragloss for the main event. I have a truck and use three gallons. I use thirty el cheapo [Sam's Club] microfibers typically.

I got a lid for my bucket and when I clean up the towels I mix up next weeks batch, put the damp towels in the clean bucket and leave it in the cool garage until use. Saves drying. If you wait too long in warm weather the duragloss will go sour (but still work OK).

You can do Garry Dean at night in your garage or in your garage in inclement weather. Just one less thing to do on your precious weekend.
 
My recommendation to the original poster: If you're actually using a spray bottle to pre-spray panels, consider picking up a pressurized sprayer from lowes or home depot. They have one in the lawn/garden type area that's about a half gallon in size for about $7 or $8. Very handy for those that pre-soak with their rinseless washes. Once it's pumped up, you can easily spray the whole car with it and then some.
 
Legumes said:
My recommendation to the original poster: If you're actually using a spray bottle to pre-spray panels, consider picking up a pressurized sprayer from lowes or home depot. They have one in the lawn/garden type area that's about a half gallon in size for about $7 or $8. Very handy for those that pre-soak with their rinseless washes. Once it's pumped up, you can easily spray the whole car with it and then some.
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+1 on the pressurized sprayer

I use ONR with Gary Dean's method during winter. I go to a coin wash, get most of the dirt and salt off the car then go home and use the pressurized sprayer to put down a layer of ONR for lubrication and proceed with wiping
 
Legumes said:
My recommendation to the original poster: If you're actually using a spray bottle to pre-spray panels, consider picking up a pressurized sprayer from lowes or home depot. They have one in the lawn/garden type area that's about a half gallon in size for about $7 or $8. Very handy for those that pre-soak with their rinseless washes. Once it's pumped up, you can easily spray the whole car with it and then some.
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Great tip...thx!
 
I've been using a Rubbermaid "Professional" spray bottle that's sold at Walmart and haven't had any problems with it. It only takes a few sprays to cover the area I'm going to clean, and I spray as I work my around the car.
 
Just had my paint corrected and sealed with Opticoat 2.0. Looks awesome. My detailer reccomended a waterless wash process if the car isn't too dirty: mix 1/2 cap of ONR in a 32 oz spray bottle, liberally spray a panel at a time and wipe with a clean MF towel. Tried it this weekend and it worked great. I would probably use the Gary Dean method of the car is dirtier. BTW, my detailer told me once mixed, ONR will breakdown in about 3 days. Anyone else confirm?

BTW, should point out this method was only reccomended for a car treated with Opti coat.
 
sdsanta said:
BTW, my detailer told me once mixed, ONR will breakdown in about 3 days.
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I don't think that's correct, or at least I hope not, because I save the clean solution to use in my spray bottle as a pre-spray. Sometimes it could be a few weeks old before I use it up. At least it still looks okay.

Maybe Chris from Optimum will see this and reply.
 
Kappy said:
I don't think that's correct, or at least I hope not, because I save the clean solution to use in my spray bottle as a pre-spray. Sometimes it could be a few weeks old before I use it up. At least it still looks okay.

Maybe Chris from Optimum will see this and reply.
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I would love to know as well, I had half a bottle leftover.
 
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