Only way to know is doing the test spot.
Since SF4000 is my favorite polish, I try to handle the work with it always I can, I'd start with it - a pleasure to use, and a finish to be proud around bragging... (it's not bragging because you will be able to back it up).
I can't say if I'd start with a finishing or polishing pad, but let's go for reasoning around this one.
If you take a brief look at this honda thread (you can look at threads after reading my write up in here for best insights):
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-full-detail-pbl-coating-coating-booster.html
Knowing 'historically' that Honda paint may be on soft side, and defects were mild/fine, I've started using a finishing pad and SF4000. Worked that way, no step up.
Now to your case. Knowing 'historically' that the paint you'll be working may be on the hard side, I'd start using a polishing pad (generally white) and SF4000 - (if you need some guidance about technique using it, I may give you more light on that).
However, that may depend a lot on severity of defects you're trying to remove.
If car is really Thrashed, I may not start a test spot with a finishing pad but a polishing pad. On my reasoning, car is in need of polishing, not 'refinement finish'. From this spot, you may have the answer to maintain, step up or down. I may start with finishing pad when I'm dealing with other guy's instilled holograms, since 'basically what lacked was a proper finishing work'. Got my point?
However, it's very unlikely (to me) start a test spot right from compound and cutting pad. It's always best to see if a polishing approach will get you there first.
I mean, if I see a thrashed paint, it's very unlikely a wax applied on gold jeweling pad will solve the defects. I extrapolate the 'use least abrasive method first' to 'I use the least abrasive method that I believe based on experience will be able to tackle the defects'. Small test spot, I get my answer in a minute.
Even while doing test spot, stop after 2-3 passes to observe what's happening, restart, and pay huge attention to what you're doing.
Please, note, the above is not a rule, just some ideas for you to add on your reasoning while trying to decide.
Some tips about SF4000:
If you use it on white pad, speed 5, pressure, slow arm speed, 4-6 passes, and it's barely removing anything, it may indicates you are dealing with harder finishes.
Trying to speed up even more with SF4000 (6, max. polisher speed), adding TONS of pressure is not the way to work SF4000, a finishing polish (however with decent cutting capabilities depending on paint being worked).
If the above won't work, you may step up product on white pad, and not try to get compound cut on SF4000, like using it on wool pad...
On this reasoning, I prefer using FG400 and white pad on speed 4 (relaxed, effectively) than using SF4000 on cutting pad and speed 6, struggling.
Again, nothing to be generalized, just to add for your reasoning.
An exception to the above, I've stepped up to blue light cutting pad + SF4000 on parts of this car I've detailed recently, since white and SF4000 was not tackling the more severe defects:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ll-detailed-pinnacle-black-label-coating.html
I've stepped up pad in this case, not product, since I was needing 'just a bit, very little more' from SF4000.
However, if you notice, I've selected the white pads and SF4000 to start the test spot, not the 'gray finishing pads'. Defects looked ugly under the sun, and Corolla (at least in my area) presents generally harder paint than related on the web (not hard, but harder than I read people commenting).
That said, not trying to make it look rocket science, in contrary, it's much harder to write about it than to actually do it.
You just got to have in mind that detailing is indeed a very mental activity, not (only) an intensive physical task of grinding the paint. It's also a form of art.
Hope that helps, please, feel free to ask regarding what I've wrote above.
Kind Regards.
