First time Opti-Coat user

RichardWest

RichardWest

New member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Hello everyone!

After a few weeks of reading the forums and researching the various paint sealants I'm ready to give this a try.

I've got a 2010 Jaguar XKR - silver - that I would like to apply Opti-Coat 2.0 to. My shipment is on the way from AutoGeek.com, but I thought I should double check to make sure that I've got the steps down to make the a successful project.

My plan is:

1. Wash the car
2. Clay bar the car
3. Use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion to remove any old wax
4. Mix up a 15% IPA solution to clean the car with
6. Apply Opti-Coat 2.0
7. After a week or two, then I will follow up with a coat or two of Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax

Is there anything that I am missing here? Any suggestions?

I appreciate any feedback or advice.

Thanks!
 
Does the paint need any compounding or polishing to remove defects prior to applying the Opti-Coat?
 
SRTSean said:
Does the paint need any compounding or polishing to remove defects prior to applying the Opti-Coat?
Click to expand...

The paint is in great shape -- no swirls -- always hand washed, waxed and garaged. I've looked at it under several different light sources and can find no problems.
 
RichardWest said:
The paint is in great shape -- no swirls -- always hand washed, waxed and garaged. I've looked at it under several different light sources and can find no problems.
Click to expand...

Having said that, I do not have a problem in polishing the car first to ensure a proper prep, so if that is recommended please let me know.
 
RichardWest said:
The paint is in great shape -- no swirls -- always hand washed, waxed and garaged. I've looked at it under several different light sources and can find no problems.
Click to expand...


Opti-coat will make any defects more noticeable, but as long as you are comfortable with the condition of the paint I would say your plan is fine other than the wax. Just make sure you give the paint one last good inspection, hand washing and being careful will keep most scratches/swirls off your paint, but it is very hard to avoid them all together. (Note, I know nothing about the hardness of the paint that would be on your vehicle.) I would hold off at least 30 days before waxing it as it could mess with the curing of Opti-coat. I think the rule of thumb is most likely cured in 30 days but could take as long as 90 depending on conditions, I believe.
 
RichardWest said:
Having said that, I do not have a problem in polishing the car first to ensure a proper prep, so if that is recommended please let me know.
Click to expand...


If it was me and time wasn't an issue, I would definitely pursue that route and you wouldn't necessarily need a compound. Using the optimum line as an example, if my paint was in similar condition to yours, I would start off with say polish II (or hyper polish if you prefer) and then finish with the final polish. And just have something stronger on hand in case you do find an issue that your polish won't remove.
 
If the paint is defect free there is no real need to polish but I always like to at least go over it with something really light like Optimum Finish.

Adding a wax on top may add a subtle change in gloss/appearance, but in doing so you will temporarily loose out on some of it's best attributes opti-coat has to offer, like readily shedding away dirt and reduced dust attraction...just something to keep in mind. ;)
 
You may want to consider decontamination with Iron-X prior to claying.
 
Hi Richard,

I like your plan but if I could focus on one important point it's the finish prep prior to applying Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0.

The key to a sparking defect free finish is in the surface preparation.

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Polish
  • IPA
  • Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
If you review the application instructions, including some of the videos actually showing applying Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0, take your time and you'll be shocked at how gorgeous the finish looks....

Optimum Technicion Applied

[video=youtube_share;Yyo_-UA8yM4"]Opti-Coat Application Methods - YouTube[/video]
​

Raskyr1 Application

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5itLTTTMexE

Before topping with wax give yourself some time to absorb the look of Opti-Coat and see if you really need to overcoat...
 
Your plan looks pretty solid. I would second the opinions on here that say to do at least a finish polish.

Once the OC is on, you will be stuck with the current paint condition. Your paint sounds like it is in great shape.

I am very happy with my decision to use Opti Coat last year. You do not need to top it with anything, unless you really want to.

Chris, the Optimum support guy, will tell you that any top wax will not last too long on top of the opti coat.
 
Keep in mind, sometimes clay can cause some marring, depending on what clay you use, how contaminated the paint is, and how soft the paint is. I always tend to get some marring with clay, but it's easy to polish out. I just Opticoated one of my vehicles, and clayed and polished it first. Just make sure all old wax is gone before Opticoating.
 
BobbyG said:
Hi Richard,

...snip...

If you review the application instructions, including some of the videos actually showing applying Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0, take your time and you'll be shocked at how gorgeous the finish looks....


Optimum Technicion Applied





Raskyr1 Application

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5itLTTTMexE

Before topping with wax give yourself some time to absorb the look of Opti-Coat and see if you really need to overcoat...
Click to expand...


Thanks for posting this video Bobby. I found it on Youtube last week and was curious if other have tried, and recomend, this application technique of wrapping the foam applicator in a rubber glove as using a shop cloth paper towel as the "applicator surface" for the Opti-Coat
 
Thanks to everyone for the great feedback.

Based on your suggesstions I'm going to add Iron-X and a polish to my steps to make sure that everything is in tip top shape.

So, it looks like my new sequence will be:

1. Wash
2. Iron-X
3. Clay bar
4. Use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion to remove any old wax
5. Polish with Optimum Hyper Polish Spray using Porter Cable 7424XP
6. (Wash car, if necessary) Mix a 15% IPA solution to clean car
7. Apply Opti-Coat 2.0


Question -- Is step 4 necessary if I will be polishing the entire car?
 
RichardWest said:
Thanks to everyone for the great feedback.

Based on your suggestions I'm going to add Iron-X and a polish to my steps to make sure that everything is in tip top shape.

So, it looks like my new sequence will be:

1. Wash
2. Iron-X
3. Clay bar
4. Use Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion to remove any old wax
5. Polish with Optimum Hyper Polish Spray using Porter Cable 7424XP
6. (Wash car, if necessary) Mix a 15% IPA solution to clean car
7. Apply Opti-Coat 2.0


Question -- Is step 4 necessary if I will be polishing the entire car?
Click to expand...

It is overkill and can be avoided. Step 5 will accomplish the same thing so you should be all set.....:props:

Step 8 will be posting some great photos!! :xyxthumbs:
 
Polish will most likely remove old wax. I also read many post which say that OC is compatible with Optimum Polishes (Both Paste and Spray?) that you won't have to do an IPA wipe. Not doing an IPA will remove the risk of marring. On the other hand, IPA wipe will ensure that the surface is squeaky clean marring will not be a problem if you are very careful with it.

I haven't tried OC. I have tried another resin coating on my hood. They say that OC is the best so based on what I am experiencing with an "inferior" coating (others' opinion), you made a right decision of following the advice of ditching the wax step. Water behavior is extra terrestrial. :D
 
I would also skip step 4, between the clay and polish, there really shouldn't be any wax left after claying and polishing. If you are really concerned about the current wax on there, I would consider something like Griots Paint Prep/Optimum Power Clean and these would take less time (I think) than the paint cleansing lotion. Wash the dirt off the vehicle then spray each panel with one of th above products and agitate followed by thorough rinse. This could extend the use of your clay and/or keep the wax from clogging your pads from the polish removing it.

With all of my opti-coat projects, I have used Optimum polishes (haven't tried the sprays yet, they just came in the mail...) and have always moved from polish to a wet microfiber wipe on each panel. I usually do the wet microfiber twice drying each time just to make sure the residue has been completely removed. No problems thus far, but I do have some Griots Pre-Wax Cleaner on hand if I feel like I am not getting the panel clean enough.
 
Hey guys, i've been looking on the forum... forgive me if i missed it somewhere... but how long, 'should you' wait, to take the vehicle out on the road or give it back to the client after applying OC 2.0? i'm asking because the only thing which is making me think twice about OC, is my pickup truck is to big to fit in my garage... i have to use a friends work garage to detail my truck 'indoors' and once i'm done i take my truck home and park it outside in the drive way... if i OC my truck, and it gets dew on the paint over night, or worse it rains, will this cause issues with the OC?

i've read that with Opti-Seal it's not an issue, but i'm not sure about OC 2.0....
 
I think I remember that it could get wet after an hour, and that you could wash it after 12 hours.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top