First time paint correction - Product recomendations

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613carguy

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I'm going to be attempting my first full paint correction on my new-to-me 2013 BMW 335 in what I believe to be Mineral Grey Metallic. It has pretty heavy swirls, some heavy scratches and a few rock chips. I'm looking for some confirmation that the steps and products I'm considering will be compatible with each other and don't have a high likelihood of ruining my paint. Here's what I'm proposing:

1. Touch up rock chips and let cure
2. wash
3. clay, using wash suds for lube
4. compound using orange pad with Meg's Ultimate compound
5. Polish using blue pad with Meg's Ultimate polish
6. Clean and fill deep scratches using Meg's mirror glaze #5 or #7 on black pads
7. Apply Meg's ultimate wax using Black finishing pad
8. Admire work, post to Show N' Shine forum!

A bit of context:

Being in Canada, I'd like to use locally available products (Meg's)
I will be using a PC 7424XP
I still need to buy pads, but will likely get either LC or Buff n shine flat pads
This is my daily driver and the kids will be touching it constantly
I know I won't be able to remove all the deeper scratches, but i'd like to at least remove the swirl marks and fine scratches, then hide most of the deep ones.
I don't want any chance of going through the clear coat, assuming I'm following Mike P's best practices.

Thanks in advance for you're help.
Graham
 
You could eliminate step 6 as Ultimate Polish will accomplish tgat task. Everything else looks good. Very similar to my approach, product, and tool choice.

The only difference is that I use Green B&S pads with Ultimate Compound, and Red to apply the sealant. Your choices will be perfect though.
 
dlc95 said:
You could eliminate step 6 as Ultimate Polish will accomplish tgat task.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input dlc95.

The reason I have that in there is to fill the deeper scratches that I can't remove. according to the Autopia comparison chart, the ultimate polish doesn't have any fillers in it. Will the fillers not really do anything?
 
You do not need to have step 6 or Glaze. That is not necessary. Pictures please!
 
Thanks for the help guys. I'm going to probably get the following pads then based on info I've read here:

6 orange
4 blue
2 black

Graham
 
613carguy said:
Thanks for the input dlc95.

The reason I have that in there is to fill the deeper scratches that I can't remove. according to the Autopia comparison chart, the ultimate polish doesn't have any fillers in it. Will the fillers not really do anything?
Click to expand...

#5 and #7 are glazes. They can hide some lighter imperfections, and minimize larger defects. They might not be as effective on defects Ultimate Compound was unable to remove.
 
Can someone recommend a product that could fill in the deeper scratches?

Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
you can try Poorboys Black Hole Glaze or Prima Amigo. I think Wolfgang/Pinn. has a glaze product too. And maybe 3M also.
 
If you can buy Meguiars DA Microfiber cutting pad and Meguiars d300 compound. Then finish it Meguiars M205 finishing polish on a Meguiars yellow polishing pad. And use the lsp you want to seal in the finish you get. Maybe Meguiars Fast Finish would be something to test out as it's simple to apply. The thought about it is that you most certainly has a rock hard clearcoat on your BMW. And to get both the cut and finish you would need to think in one or 2 step more coarse approach to even get some correction out of your work. Then the mf cutting pad and the yellow polishing pad is thin and will make your XP polisher more effective. If you still wants to use meguiars UC and UP I would chose a more coarse pads to get more correction and finish.
 
SWETM said:
If you can buy Meguiars DA Microfiber cutting pad and Meguiars d300 compound. Then finish it Meguiars M205 finishing polish on a Meguiars yellow polishing pad. And use the lsp you want to seal in the finish you get. Maybe Meguiars Fast Finish would be something to test out as it's simple to apply. The thought about it is that you most certainly has a rock hard clearcoat on your BMW. And to get both the cut and finish you would need to think in one or 2 step more coarse approach to even get some correction out of your work. Then the mf cutting pad and the yellow polishing pad is thin and will make your XP polisher more effective. If you still wants to use meguiars UC and UP I would chose a more coarse pads to get more correction and finish.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I would do. I have a 2011 335d and the paint is very hard. I used Megs microfiber pads with Megs d300 to cut and the paint came out almost defect free. You could use the Megs finishing microfiber pads and d301 and save yourself a lot of time. Megs microfiber pads are thin so the PC spins them easily. Good luck!
 
Ultimate Liquid Wax has fillers so I agree that step 6 may not be necessary. I'd also add that you might be able to get away without step 5 depending on how your paint reacts to the compounding. On hard paints I've had UC finish out perfectly. Personally my go to for a quick 3 step is UC followed by an all in one (menzerna 3 in 1 or hd speed, depending on the paint) then wiped down with some D156. I use all in ones as a finishing polish in most cases for their ease of use (you can let them dry and do the whole care before wiping if you want).
 
SWETM said:
If you can buy Meguiars DA Microfiber cutting pad and Meguiars d300 compound. Then finish it Meguiars M205 finishing polish on a Meguiars yellow polishing pad. And use the lsp you want to seal in the finish you get. Maybe Meguiars Fast Finish would be something to test out as it's simple to apply. The thought about it is that you most certainly has a rock hard clearcoat on your BMW. And to get both the cut and finish you would need to think in one or 2 step more coarse approach to even get some correction out of your work. Then the mf cutting pad and the yellow polishing pad is thin and will make your XP polisher more effective. If you still wants to use meguiars UC and UP I would chose a more coarse pads to get more correction and finish.
Click to expand...

That is a great system. D300/megs mf + M205/yellow polishing disc.

UC is no slouch on microfiber either.
 
So thanks for all the advise. I ended up getting some UC and UP but after visiting a local detailer and pad supplier, was talked into buying some carpro clearcut and yellow heavy cut pads to go after the swirls in my BMWs clearcoat. I’m unsure of how aggressive the clearcut is though since I don’t see it on the autopia chart. Can anyone suggest where on that chart it would fall?

Thanks,
Graham


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
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