First time PC mistakes

[Whitey]

Alright, been here for a bit, just been reading and absorbing. Finally got the nerve to use the pc for the first time, but had a little trouble. 05 Black Honda Civic, driven daily (30K) since oct. Paint condition is ok, just had some moderate swirl marks.

washed
Clayed
washed
SSR2.5 w/ an edge2K orange pad
SSR 1 with blue pad
EXP
Maxwax

Using a halogen light to see my swirls, they appeared to be large, very distinguished swirls. After using the 2.5/orange, the large/pronounced swirls were gone, but I could now see what appeared to be 1000's of small, light swirls. Wasn't sure if it was normal, but figured it was since 2.5 is more abrasive than 1.0 and thought the 1.0 would fill in the rest. So I went with the 1.0 and the blue pad. I couldn't tell it did much. The swirls were definitely lighter, but still there. The paint didn't seem to pop either. It almost looked to be more dull. So I tried another round of 1.0/blue pad. Again no change. Thinking I should probably just call it quits before I screw things up, I went ahead and applied the EXP and then the maxwax a day later.

It does look better now with the last two steps. I think the exp might have filled in some of the light swirls, not real sure. But still, I didn't get the results I was looking for.

The technique I used was pc on 5.5, moved horizontal at about 1in/sec. then went vertical. I worked in an approx. 2x2 area. Not sure how much time I worked the polish, but it was enough to get dusting. I think I was able to get two complete passes of horizontal and two complete vertical once it finally started dusting. So I think I worked it long enough??

The best way to describe my swirl marks after I've finished everything would be it looks like I've just set a light to med. aggressive pad in one spot and let it just spin dry on the paint. Any ideas? I'm sure there's something to my technique that I'm missing... please fill me in. thanks

 

[BILL]

try the white pad with the SSR-1 Then a finshing polish with the blue or gray pad.....

 

[sparkie]

Sound like you done every thing right. It all depends on you paint, Just as always, go with the least abrasive products first. Now that I got that said. I have had some cars I had to go more aggressive with more bite and go over body parts 3 or 4 times at a setting of 6. Some times I have to spray some water or water/alcohol mix 50/50. Just be sure to use overlapping strokes, and it takes me about 45-60 seconds to complete my first pass. Then use a little extra pressure on the second pass. Keep overlapping so you have the hold panel completely covered. Keep repeating until the product is almost gone, and buff off with a MF. It depend on the swirls you have, you can increase speed and pressure, and how many times you go over the same body part. Just remember that the more pressure is more aggressive, so be careful around raised surfaces and ridges. You said you let the buffer set in one single spot, don't do that, you might burn the paint, always keep it moving. I hope this helps, here is a link to AG Video
http://www.autogeek.net/xmt.html

And here is one from a member of this fourm.

http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/

 

[MikeyC]

try the white pad with the SSR-1 Then a finshing polish with the blue or gray pad.....

SSR1 is a finishing polish, but I agree that to get optimum results you might have to polish with SSR1 twice first with a orange pad to remove the buffer haze from SSR2.5 and then to jewel the finish with a blue or white pad.

The color pads I recommend are different because I think Bill is giving you the colors that correspond to Lake Country pads. I say this because I don't think there is an Edge grey pad.

Also, one thing to note is that PB polishes dust very easily. I find that when using PB polishes that once the dust starts that the pad constantly spews dust. The best indicator of when the polish is completely broken down is that the residue will turn clear. Not working the polish long enough may have contributed to your issue.

 

[Whitey]

You said you let the buffer set in one single spot, don't do that, you might burn the paint, always keep it moving.

No, I never let the PC sit in one place. That is just what the swirl marks reminded me of once I was finished. Very small swirls, but 1000s of them. The original swirls just seemed to be large, pronounced ones.

Thanks for your help guys. So far, I'm not a big fan of the PB polishes. Not that it didn't give me the results I was looking for because that is probably operator error, but because they dust so much. I think I may go with the XMT series as many have said they dust less.

So, just for future reference, anybody mind giving me a breakdown of what products (Poorboys and XMT) to use with which pads (Edge2k)? I've searched on here a few times and I can only seem to find lists that include the LC pads.

thanks

 

[P1et]

I agree with the above statements. I had great results using SSR2.5 (two passes) followed by two passes off SSR1 on a white pad. Then finish it off with EX-P on a gray or blue pad.

 

[ktyklr]

I experienced the same issue when I used my PC for the first time. I also used PB SSR2.5 and SSR1. After getting some good advice on this forum, I used the SSR1 again, with a white pad, at speed 6, and worked it into the paint for a good 5 minutes...that took care of the micro-marring....

 

[ScottB]

try the white pad with the SSR-1 Then a finshing polish with the blue or gray pad.....

Exactly correct !!

The mistake was jumping from a highly abrasive polish and pad (orange) to a blue (finishing pad) with finishing polish was just to far a jump. Those small marks are called micromarring and are typically present in this situation. Move down the pad abrasive scale and only use a finishing pad for "jeweling" or wax application/removal.

 

[Whitey]

Exactly correct !!

The mistake was jumping from a highly abrasive polish and pad (orange) to a blue (finishing pad) with finishing polish was just to far a jump. Those small marks are called micromarring and are typically present in this situation. Move down the pad abrasive scale and only use a finishing pad for "jeweling" or wax application/removal.

We are talking about edge pads correct? Orange is their light cutting pad and blue is the next step down. If thats what you meant, then I'm confused as to what to do.

 

[dengood1]

You said you let the buffer set in one single spot, don't do that, you might burn the paint, always keep it moving.

I have to disagree with you here as it's ALMOST impossible to burn your paint with a PC, which is a random orbit tool. I agree that one should keep it moving, but I think you're referring to a high speed buffer, which can definitely burn your paint if you're new to it's use.

 

[FloridaNative]

We are talking about edge pads correct? Orange is their light cutting pad and blue is the next step down. If thats what you meant, then I'm confused as to what to do.

Killer is talking about the Lake Country pad system. In their system the white pad is a polishing pad, the grey pad is a finishing pad and the blue pad is a finessing pad.

In the Edge system the blue would be the finishing pad and the white would be the finessing pad.

Hope this clears up the confusion.

 

[ScottB]

correct .... Im sticking with Lake Country , dont find Edge to be all that. Sorry !!