First time user of Klasse AOI and Klasse SG

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arc1880

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I have a few minor scratches and swirl marks. I was wondering if I can use Scratch X2.0 along with Klasse AOI and Klasse SG. So wash, dry, clay, Scratch X, AOI and then SG. Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Other info:
Car color Sparkling Graphite 335i Coupe
Not garaged
Car is driven daily
Working by hand (don't have experience in detailing in general)
 
If you're working by hand, then you have your work cut out for you if you're using Scratch X for the entire car... With the SG, I can tell you that you need to apply the most even and thin coat as you possibly can, otherwise buffing off is a real pain for those heavily coated spots.
 
you really need to move to a buffer and polishes, its quite easy and will be much better and faster than hand polishing. You can then certainly use the Klasse Twins as protection.
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
you really need to move to a buffer and polishes, its quite easy and will be much better and faster than hand polishing. You can then certainly use the Klasse Twins as protection.
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What would be a good tool to use for a complete newbie? And products as well? I've been looking at the Porter Cable 7424XP, but how user friendly is that?
 
I just did my car with a PC for the first time ever and got great results. Just read everything you can online, ask questions, and you should be fine IF you're patient and don't try to cut corners.

Get the machine and a few choice pads along with the right product and those swirls/scratches will be gone. My metal flake practically jumped off the paint once the clear was.... clear.

For getting off the SG it's a lot easier if you very lightly mist the towel with a QD, or water if you've let it dry for 12 hours. That's usually what I do. I leave it overnight to be sure it's dry.

Good luck.
 
arc1880 said:
What would be a good tool to use for a complete newbie? And products as well? I've been looking at the Porter Cable 7424XP, but how user friendly is that?
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very user and more important, neewwwbie friendly! i will never go back to hand. so easy. i was scared and then once i tried it...wow! whole new world.

that color you have, kinda like a dark gray? it will look nice with the twins. my wife has a graphite mustang, and it came out real nice.

when you put on the finishing glaze, put it on very lightly. it's a mother to get off. most will put a very light coat on one panel at a time, then buff off before it dries completely. that is probably the best way. you'll see.

good luck
 
Yes the color of the car is a darker grey. Thanks for the feedback on the Porter Cable. I am leaning towards getting it. Just not sure what product to get as far as removing swirls/scratches and what pads. Autogeek has a ton of package options.
 
arc1880 said:
Thanks for the feedback on the Porter Cable. I am leaning towards getting it. Just not sure what product to get as far as removing swirls/scratches and what pads. Autogeek has a ton of package options.
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Now's the time to get if your thinking about it.....with the sale on the unit by itself and on the pads you can't go wrong.

I did the kit thing when I got mine last year, I didn't know better and it came with the 6" pads.......most here will say don't use the 6's with a DA (not enough umph in the unit once the pad gets wet with product).

What pads do you need, all depends on what you want to do, spread wax/sealant go for the black/red/blues......paint correction depends again on what product your going to use and how much of a correction your trying to do...but Orange/White/Green is probably what you should be looking at.

How many of each color you might ask? From what I've seen here on the board, wax /sealant you could probably get away with one or two per vehicle. Paint correction you will need more, I've seen it listed here recently as many as one per panel.

People with more experience then what I've got I'm sure will point you in the right direction.
 
What pads would be recommended for using both Klasse products (IE color)?
 
If used with the Porter Cable. Can Klasse AOI be used to remove swirl marks or scratches? Can scratch x be used with the Porter Cable?
 
arc1880 said:
What would be a good tool to use for a complete newbie? And products as well? I've been looking at the Porter Cable 7424XP, but how user friendly is that?
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I personally would grab a PC-XP, 5 inch backing plate, some 5.5 inch flat pads and polishes. For polishes I like three two-step products. Menzerna SIP/Nano, Wolfgang TSR/FG, or Megs 105/205.

Vjeszczi said:
What pads would be recommended for using both Klasse products (IE color)?
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I would use finishing pads with them since neither has abrasive qualities just chemical cleaners in AIO and other is a pure sealant.

arc1880 said:
If used with the Porter Cable. Can Klasse AOI be used to remove swirl marks or scratches? Can scratch x be used with the Porter Cable?
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AIO is not an abrasive polish and will NOT remove swirls. I would use dedicated products listed above. I personally would NOT use ScratchX with buffer over entire car, but have heard of others hand polishing with it. I just find hand polishing much to hard, with little if any reward.
 
Thanks killrwheels. I noticed on your site that you have the Wolfgang Duo & Porter Cable 7424XP kit. Would you recommend this to start out plus a couple of fine finishing pads like the CCS grey or blue pads for the Klasse AOI and SG? Which CCS pads would be best used for AOI and SG?
 
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Also, that kit only comes with 2 pads, one orange and one grey. Would more pads be needed to do the entire car? Also, is it true that if you use the larger pads like the 6.5 inch, there isn't enough power in the Porter Cable once the pad gets too wet with the product? That kit comes with the 6.5.
 
I used the Menzerna Intensive polish and Micro polish, with orange and white CCM pads respectively, for the top surfaces that had more swirls and water spots. And Final Polish for the sides. I left behind quite a few deeper scratches and tiny bird etchings though because I didn't want to remove more paint than necessary to make it shine. And shine it did. It's a medium grey metallic paint with CC. But at the time I didn't know about that newer Menz (Super Polish?) that cuts like intensive but finishes better than Micro or Final. I probably would have used that with a tangerine hydro pad if I had known. One product, one step, and one pad for the same results! That sounds good to me.

I recently got some of the PO85RD light finishing polish and will probably do the whole car in the fall to see if I can get that last little bit of shine out of it. But I don't know if it will make a noticeable difference on "just" a grey car.

Oh, I put the AIO on with both a red and blue pad.
 
Do I need to do the whole 2 step process all over the car? Or can I just do the 2 step process where the swirls and scratches are. Then apply AIO and SG all over the car.
 
arc1880 said:
Do I need to do the whole 2 step process all over the car? Or can I just do the 2 step process where the swirls and scratches are. Then apply AIO and SG all over the car.
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Well speaking from my noob experience, you can do it any way you like. As I said I used different level polishes on different parts of the car - but finished with the same finishing polish all over for uniform shine. I only deep corrected the tops which were much worse than the sides. (Oddly enough the lower doors were probably the shiniest part of the car. I guess no bird poop, nobody ever sat or leaned on it, no water drops baking in the sun, etc. In fact I never even did them! (Shhh don't tell anybody). ;)

But from everything I've read yes you can do that. And probably should, leaving as much paint on the car as possible. The heavier correcting polishes generally don't produce much shine anyway, they usually just scour away the scratches. It's that fine last polish that does that shines the paint.

I liked using the KAIO last to clean the paint after all the work and put a quick coat of sealant on it (no drying time or hard buffing) so I could use the car if I needed to, and then put the SG or other LSP on another day.
 
Silverstone said:
Well speaking from my noob experience, you can do it any way you like. As I said I used different level polishes on different parts of the car - but finished with the same finishing polish all over for uniform shine. I only deep corrected the tops which were much worse than the sides. (Oddly enough the lower doors were probably the shiniest part of the car. I guess no bird poop, nobody ever sat or leaned on it, no water drops baking in the sun, etc. In fact I never even did them! (Shhh don't tell anybody). ;)

But from everything I've read yes you can do that. And probably should, leaving as much paint on the car as possible. The heavier correcting polishes generally don't produce much shine anyway, they usually just scour away the scratches. It's that fine last polish that does that shines the paint.

I liked using the KAIO last to clean the paint after all the work and put a quick coat of sealant on it (no drying time or hard buffing) so I could use the car if I needed to, and then put the SG or other LSP on another day.
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How many different pads did you go through for the entire car? How many of each pad? How many pads did you go through when doing the finishing polish for the entire car? I just want to try to get a feel of what pads I need to buy and how many. Thanks for the info.
 
arc1880 said:
Thanks killrwheels. I noticed on your site that you have the Wolfgang Duo & Porter Cable 7424XP kit. Would you recommend this to start out plus a couple of fine finishing pads like the CCS grey or blue pads for the Klasse AOI and SG? Which CCS pads would be best used for AOI and SG?
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Thats a great kit indeed. I believe that you need at least 2 pads of each color per vehicle. I like orange, white, grey, and red.


arc1880 said:
Also, that kit only comes with 2 pads, one orange and one grey. Would more pads be needed to do the entire car? Also, is it true that if you use the larger pads like the 6.5 inch, there isn't enough power in the Porter Cable once the pad gets too wet with the product? That kit comes with the 6.5.
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The newer Pc-XP handles 6.5 inch pads but you need alot of time and patience. The 5.5 inch pads just "seem" to work a bit better and quicker. As for pad type, guess I am boring as I still find that flat ones to be perfectly acceptable and get the job done.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I decided to order a PC today. I can't wait to try it out. Now all I need to do is clear my garage so I can actually put my car in it. One question though, what parts of the car should I tape off? I didn't really want to create a whole new thread on this and my searches are turning up with any obvious results. Also, how do I handle those curved or odd shaped surfaces on my car?
 
get painters tape (masking tape usually blue) and anywhere glass meets paint tape of the area. Also tape off where trim (plastic) touches painted areas.
 
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