First time using Rotary, not good

mpmiller37

New member
Joined
Aug 9, 2008
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
I've been using a DA polisher (porter cable 7424) for years without issue, though I wanted to try something to do some paint correction and get the job done faster. So I bought a rotary at harbor freight with speed from 1500-3500. I also bought some products: Meg DA microfiber correction compound and some MF cutting discs, also some Meg M100 and a wool pad. I also have some foam pads. I have an old 2007 Ridgeline and the paint looks pretty good but it has alot of minor scratches and water marks that seem embedded in the clear coat. I tried various combinations of pads (MF discs, the wool, and foam) with the correction compound and the M100. Results ...
1. The products did not correct what I expected them to and I was fairly aggressive with speed and polishing time, but the finish is shiny. Didn't damage anything and no swirl marks (which surprises me because I thought rotary with wool was dangerous).
2. Very messy, I watched videos on how to apply product etc. but polish still seemed to go everywhere.
3. Working time was short. The correction compound dusted quickly. The M100 was a bit longer.
4. Biggest complaint: the machine would wobble and pull quite a bit such that my arms were trashed. I tried slower speeds which didn't help, and ended up doing most of the truck at 3500. The foam pad seemed to be the smoothest to work with, so I stayed with that. I wanted to use more product but didn't want it flying everywhere, but I really wanted the machine to do the work without jumping/pulling and trashing my arms.

Is this typical? Can anyone tell me what I might have been doing wrong or provide tips for a better rotary experience? My objective was some paint correction with less effort in a timely fashion (work smarter not harder) but it was very hard work.
Thanks for the help ... Mike
 
I’m not an expert with a rotary but I’ll say 3500rpm is crazy fast. You’ll create lots of heat which will dry out your compound. M100 (and most of Meguiar’s compounds) are short cycle products. Over heating them will make a mess and you will struggle.

I would bet money that there are holograms in the paint. Keeping the pad flat will reduce the chances of leaving them but they’ll be there. You will need direct sunlight to verify.

It’ll take practice to control the rotary. You have to leverage the rotation and direction of the machine. If you fight it it’ll fight you back. Feel out the naturally tendency of the machines movement and apply slight changes to get it to go where you want.
 
Last edited:
I've been using a DA polisher (porter cable 7424) for years without issue, though I wanted to try something to do some paint correction and get the job done faster. So I bought a rotary at harbor freight with speed from 1500-3500. I also bought some products: Meg DA microfiber correction compound and some MF cutting discs, also some Meg M100 and a wool pad. I also have some foam pads. I have an old 2007 Ridgeline and the paint looks pretty good but it has alot of minor scratches and water marks that seem embedded in the clear coat. I tried various combinations of pads (MF discs, the wool, and foam) with the correction compound and the M100. Results ...
1. The products did not correct what I expected them to and I was fairly aggressive with speed and polishing time, but the finish is shiny. Didn't damage anything and no swirl marks (which surprises me because I thought rotary with wool was dangerous).
2. Very messy, I watched videos on how to apply product etc. but polish still seemed to go everywhere.
3. Working time was short. The correction compound dusted quickly. The M100 was a bit longer.
4. Biggest complaint: the machine would wobble and pull quite a bit such that my arms were trashed. I tried slower speeds which didn't help, and ended up doing most of the truck at 3500. The foam pad seemed to be the smoothest to work with, so I stayed with that. I wanted to use more product but didn't want it flying everywhere, but I really wanted the machine to do the work without jumping/pulling and trashing my arms.

Is this typical? Can anyone tell me what I might have been doing wrong or provide tips for a better rotary experience? My objective was some paint correction with less effort in a timely fashion (work smarter not harder) but it was very hard work.
Thanks for the help ... Mike
I am no expert rotary man. I have spent time behind the tool though.

What size backing plate and pads did you buy/use?

Mf pads and a rotory is a no no.

That speed is to way to fast. Stay around 1500 for starters. Heck my flex only goes up to 2100.

Work off on side more of the pad. Dont want to try to run the pad flat on surface. Makes it jumpy

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 
>> 3500rpm is crazy fast. You’ll create lots of heat
Yes, the surface of car was getting quite warm, but I thought you needed some heat for paint correction?

>> Work off on side more of the pad. Dont want to try to run the pad flat on surface
All the videos I saw suggested keeping the pad flat to the surface, so I tried to do that, and yes it
was jumpy, which is why I bumped the speed higher

I was attempting to correct some defects in the clearcoat and didn't think my DA would do the job.
Thus I went to rotary, idk.
 
Yes, the surface of car was getting quite warm, but I thought you needed some heat for paint correction?
I think that's an old wive's tale. Sure some heat is ok (a black car in the sun is going to get...over 150F....I think a member put his IR thermometer on his car not long ago), but too hot is bad.
 
Back
Top