First timer purchasing DA + polish

[Gman91]

Hello all,

Currently, I detail my car by hand and have products here and there based on the situation. I plan on moving to the next level in car detailing by purchasing the DA (PC 7424XP) and the Meguiar's MF correction system. I have compiled a list of products I own and products I intend to purchase. Could the community let me know if I am missing any products or have products that may “overlap” one another or if there is a better one on the market?

I drive a 11’ VW GTI that has been washed using the two bucket method since I purchased it. Additionally, I clay it once a year and reapply wax when needed. I wash it approximately every 2-3 weeks; however, I am starting to notice some fairly light scratches and holagrams in areas that I tried to fix with Scratch X 2.0 :doh:

Current:
Meg’s Ultimate Quick Wax
Meg’s Ultimate Paste Wax
Meg’s Cleaner Wax
Meg’s Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner
Meg’s #7 Glaze
Meg’s Scratch X 2.0

Purchase:
Porter Cable XP
Meg's MF kit - Do I need a different counterweight?

Sealant - Meg's #21 vs Menz's Power Lock?
Menz's Power Finish 2500 (PO203)
Menz's Super Finish 4000 (PO106FA) vs 4500 (PO85RD)
=
Menzerna Power Finish & Super Finish Bundle, Menzerna Polishing Compounds, Menzerna PO203 & PO106FA, car polishes

Total: ~ $280, would prefer cheaper but... gotta pay to play I guess? :buffing:

Questions:
1: As a first timer, would the 5" or 6" kit be better? The garage is composed of my car, Mazda 3, and a Honda CRV. No trucks.

2: Menz's polishes used with Meg's MF discs acceptable?

3: It seems D300 is similar to M105 in cutting power. Since my vehicle's paint isn't in bad shape, would a less aggressive product like Menzerna's Power Finish work? Using Mike Phillips, "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" in mind.

4: I also read on the forum that some individuals who first used M105 first then finished with M205 still noticed scratches. Of course, I won't be using those particular products, but if start with Menz's Power Finish do I still need to follow up with an less aggressive product? Menz's Super Finish polish be a good? 106FA vs 85RD?

5: I also intend to purchase a sealant, this would be the first time I have every used such a product. I have narrowed down to 2 products, Meg's #21 and Menz's Power lock sealant. Which would you recommend?

6: When I finally begin detailing would i take the following steps?

1. Wash with Dawn soap
2. Clay bar
3. Meg's paint cleaner
4. Re-wash using regular car soap or dawn again?
   
5. Correction with D300/Menz's Power finish + MF cutting disc
6. Menz's Super finish polish + MF finish disc
7. Seal with Sealant - Since wax provided in Meg's MF kit has abrasives, should I use it before apply the sealant? Any bonding issues?
8. Apply choice of wax

Enjoy the clean car only to see it get ruined by pollen in a week


Thanks,
Jeff

Really appreciate the help guys! :bowdown:

 

[wysiwyg]

Questions:
1: As a first timer, would the 5" or 6" kit be better? The garage is composed of my car, Mazda 3, and a Honda CRV. No trucks.

I'd go with 5" backing plate with 5.5" flat pads. Much easier to work with than the larger thicker pads.

2: Menz's polishes used with Meg's MF discs acceptable?

No experience with either product.

3: It seems D300 is similar to M105 in cutting power. Since my vehicle's paint isn't in bad shape, would a less aggressive product like Menzerna's Power Finish work? Using Mike Phillips, "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" in mind.

If you're paint is not in bad shape, then definitely go with a less agressive polish like M205

4: I also read on the forum that some individuals who first used M105 first then finished with M205 still noticed scratches. Of course, I won't be using those particular products, but if start with Menz's Power Finish do I still need to follow up with an less aggressive product? Menz's Super Finish polish be a good? 106FA vs 85RD?

I use the M105/205 combo which works well for removing scratches. You may also want to consider an AIO. I've had good results with XMT 360

5: I also intend to purchase a sealant, this would be the first time I have every used such a product. I have narrowed down to 2 products, Meg's #21 and Menz's Power lock sealant. Which would you recommend?

I skip the sealant step on daily drivers and use an AIO instead.

6: When I finally begin detailing would i take the following steps?

1. Wash with Dawn soap
2. Clay bar
3. Meg's paint cleaner
4. Re-wash using regular car soap or dawn again?
   
5. Correction with D300/Menz's Power finish + MF cutting disc
6. Menz's Super finish polish + MF finish disc
7. Seal with Sealant - Since wax provided in Meg's MF kit has abrasives, should I use it before apply the sealant? Any bonding issues?
8. Apply choice of wax

Enjoy the clean car only to see it get ruined by pollen in a week


Thanks,
Jeff

Really appreciate the help guys! :bowdown:

See above

 

[maximus20895]

Here's my take on this..

Hello all,

Currently, I detail my car by hand and have products here and there based on the situation. I plan on moving to the next level in car detailing by purchasing the DA (PC 7424XP) and the Meguiar's MF correction system. I have compiled a list of products I own and products I intend to purchase. Could the community let me know if I am missing any products or have products that may “overlap” one another or if there is a better one on the market?

I drive a 11’ VW GTI that has been washed using the two bucket method since I purchased it. Additionally, I clay it once a year and reapply wax when needed. I wash it approximately every 2-3 weeks; however, I am starting to notice some fairly light scratches and holagrams in areas that I tried to fix with Scratch X 2.0 :doh:

Current:
Meg’s Ultimate Quick Wax
Meg’s Ultimate Paste Wax
Meg’s Cleaner Wax
Meg’s Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner
Meg’s #7 Glaze
Meg’s Scratch X 2.0

Purchase:
Porter Cable XP
Meg's MF kit - Do I need a different counterweight?

Sealant - Meg's #21 vs Menz's Power Lock?
Menz's Power Finish 2500 (PO203)
Menz's Super Finish 4000 (PO106FA) vs 4500 (PO85RD)
=
Menzerna Power Finish & Super Finish Bundle, Menzerna Polishing Compounds, Menzerna PO203 & PO106FA, car polishes

Total: ~ $280, would prefer cheaper but... gotta pay to play I guess? :buffing:

Questions:
1: As a first timer, would the 5" or 6" kit be better? The garage is composed of my car, Mazda 3, and a Honda CRV. No trucks.

5" for sure. Sometimes the DA doesn't have enough power to use the 6". It just depends.

2: Menz's polishes used with Meg's MF discs acceptable?

I don't know about this one either. Although, I like using Meg's polishes and would advice them for the beginner since they don't break down and you don't have to work the polish until the abrasive break down. Just look up SMAT vs DAT.


3: It seems D300 is similar to M105 in cutting power. Since my vehicle's paint isn't in bad shape, would a less aggressive product like Menzerna's Power Finish work? Using Mike Phillips, "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" in mind.

It might. M205 might also work. This is kinda hard to say since there are so many variables. This is also where having several products come into play. All I can tell you is it just varies.

4: I also read on the forum that some individuals who first used M105 first then finished with M205 still noticed scratches. Of course, I won't be using those particular products, but if start with Menz's Power Finish do I still need to follow up with an less aggressive product? Menz's Super Finish polish be a good? 106FA vs 85RD?

106FA can take out more scratches than 85RD, but it might not finish as nice. Some people say it does some people say it doesn't. Of course, once again it depends on the paint. If your paint is super soft and black than 85RD would be a good idea to get.

5: I also intend to purchase a sealant, this would be the first time I have every used such a product. I have narrowed down to 2 products, Meg's #21 and Menz's Power lock sealant. Which would you recommend?

I would get Menzerna Power Lock. I don't even think Meg's 21 is even in the same boat. I would view Power Lock as a more "semi-esoteric" sealant and Meg's 21 as a general sealant that would be used for soccer mom's etc. I'm not saying Meg's 21 is bad at all, but since these are your cars I would think you would want something better and I think Power Lock is just that.

6: When I finally begin detailing would i take the following steps?

1. Wash with Dawn soap
2. Clay bar
3. Meg's paint cleaner
4. Re-wash using regular car soap or dawn again?
5. Correction with D300/Menz's Power finish + MF cutting disc
6. Menz's Super finish polish + MF finish disc
7. Seal with Sealant - Since wax provided in Meg's MF kit has abrasives, should I use it before apply the sealant? Any bonding issues?
8. Apply choice of wax

I would even bother with paint cleaner or re-washing the car again. I don't know what wax in the MF kit has abrasives. I can't even find the kit and don't know what it comes with. For your LSP you apply sealant, wait 12 hours for certain ones likes Power Lock and then apply your wax.



Enjoy the clean car only to see it get ruined by pollen in a week


Thanks,
Jeff

Really appreciate the help guys! :bowdown:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hello all,

Currently, I detail my car by hand and have products here and there based on the situation. I plan on moving to the next level in car detailing by purchasing the DA (PC 7424XP) and the Meguiar's MF correction system. I have compiled a list of products I own and products I intend to purchase. Could the community let me know if I am missing any products or have products that may “overlap” one another or if there is a better one on the market?

I drive a 11’ VW GTI that has been washed using the two bucket method since I purchased it. Additionally, I clay it once a year and reapply wax when needed. I wash it approximately every 2-3 weeks; however, I am starting to notice some fairly light scratches and holagrams in areas that I tried to fix with Scratch X 2.0 :doh:

Current:
Meg’s Ultimate Quick Wax
Meg’s Ultimate Paste Wax
Meg’s Cleaner Wax
Meg’s Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner
Meg’s #7 Glaze
Meg’s Scratch X 2.0

Purchase:
Porter Cable XP
Meg's MF kit - Do I need a different counterweight?

Sealant - Meg's #21 vs Menz's Power Lock?
Menz's Power Finish 2500 (PO203)
Menz's Super Finish 4000 (PO106FA) vs 4500 (PO85RD)
=
Menzerna Power Finish & Super Finish Bundle, Menzerna Polishing Compounds, Menzerna PO203 & PO106FA, car polishes

Total: ~ $280, would prefer cheaper but... gotta pay to play I guess? :buffing:

You don't need a counterweight for the MF system, the Meguiar's DA doesn't even give you this option.

Foam still finishes out better than fiber pads. I hate to be a broken record but here goes, the Microfiber DA System is for production detailing. Nothing wrong with this but there's a difference between Production Detailing and Show Car Detailing.

The sealants are both good, the Menz is probably a little easier to work with it dries fast and wipes off really easy.

Questions:
1: As a first timer, would the 5" or 6" kit be better? The garage is composed of my car, Mazda 3, and a Honda CRV. No trucks.

5.5" pads for DA as the pads fit car panels better and rotate better under pressure.

2: Menz's polishes used with Meg's MF discs acceptable?

If you're going to use Menzerna Polishes then get foam pads and have the best of both worlds. If you're going to use Megs MF Pads then get their products.

3: It seems D300 is similar to M105 in cutting power. Since my vehicle's paint isn't in bad shape, would a less aggressive product like Menzerna's Power Finish work? Using Mike Phillips, "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" in mind.

D300 is not as aggressive as M105. Both work good, D300 is easier to work with.

[/QUOTE]


Just a tip... you'll get more answers and better answers if you only ask a few questions versus a ton of questions. I list why here,

A tip to help yourself get great answers when you start a thread

 

[Buckskincolt]

Hello all,

Currently, I detail my car by hand and have products here and there based on the situation. I plan on moving to the next level in car detailing by purchasing the DA (PC 7424XP) and the Meguiar's MF correction system. I have compiled a list of products I own and products I intend to purchase. Could the community let me know if I am missing any products or have products that may “overlap” one another or if there is a better one on the market?

I drive a 11’ VW GTI that has been washed using the two bucket method since I purchased it. Additionally, I clay it once a year and reapply wax when needed. I wash it approximately every 2-3 weeks; however, I am starting to notice some fairly light scratches and holagrams in areas that I tried to fix with Scratch X 2.0 :doh:

Current:
Meg’s Ultimate Quick Wax
Meg’s Ultimate Paste Wax
Meg’s Cleaner Wax
Meg’s Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner
Meg’s #7 Glaze
Meg’s Scratch X 2.0

Purchase:
Porter Cable XP
Meg's MF kit - Do I need a different counterweight?

Sealant - Meg's #21 vs Menz's Power Lock?
Menz's Power Finish 2500 (PO203)
Menz's Super Finish 4000 (PO106FA) vs 4500 (PO85RD)
=
Menzerna Power Finish & Super Finish Bundle, Menzerna Polishing Compounds, Menzerna PO203 & PO106FA, car polishes

Total: ~ $280, would prefer cheaper but... gotta pay to play I guess? :buffing:

Questions:
1: As a first timer, would the 5" or 6" kit be better? The garage is composed of my car, Mazda 3, and a Honda CRV. No trucks.

2: Menz's polishes used with Meg's MF discs acceptable?

3: It seems D300 is similar to M105 in cutting power. Since my vehicle's paint isn't in bad shape, would a less aggressive product like Menzerna's Power Finish work? Using Mike Phillips, "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" in mind.

4: I also read on the forum that some individuals who first used M105 first then finished with M205 still noticed scratches. Of course, I won't be using those particular products, but if start with Menz's Power Finish do I still need to follow up with an less aggressive product? Menz's Super Finish polish be a good? 106FA vs 85RD?

5: I also intend to purchase a sealant, this would be the first time I have every used such a product. I have narrowed down to 2 products, Meg's #21 and Menz's Power lock sealant. Which would you recommend?

6: When I finally begin detailing would i take the following steps?

1. Wash with Dawn soap
2. Clay bar
3. Meg's paint cleaner
4. Re-wash using regular car soap or dawn again?
   
5. Correction with D300/Menz's Power finish + MF cutting disc
6. Menz's Super finish polish + MF finish disc
7. Seal with Sealant - Since wax provided in Meg's MF kit has abrasives, should I use it before apply the sealant? Any bonding issues?
8. Apply choice of wax

Enjoy the clean car only to see it get ruined by pollen in a week


Thanks,
Jeff

Really appreciate the help guys! :bowdown:

I think the first thing you need to do here is choose between using Menzerna polishes or the Meguires micro fiber system. Above you keep trying to combine them and I think that would be a big mistake.
If you go Menzerna then get foam pads. If you want to try the MF system then go that way. I think you would be very happy using the MF system, simple to use great results.
I have other feedback but at this point i feel you need to decide rather than try to combine.rops:

As Mike said above the foam pads finish better for show car looks, the MF is for production. That said if these cars a daily drivers then the production polish will be great and look really awesome. If you what that wow glass finish then you need to choose a system that uses foam pads.
Think 5.5" no matter what way you go for a Da polisher.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I just posted this to another thread and it fits here,

And this one,

How to write a good title for your thread



Both the above article and the one I previously posted are written to help you help yourself.

Typing in a vBulletin message board system isn't hard but answering lots and lots of questions is clumsy.

It's always better to start at thread that tells people what you're working on.

My tires are brown

Then ask a few questions

• Why do they turn brown?
• How can I remove the brown color
• How can I keep them black longer?

Then when you have a NEW topic, like removing water spots off glass, start a new thread with a great title and a few questions.

By following these simple guidelines you make it EASY for the kind and helpful people on our forum to provide GREAT answers. Our kind and helpful forum member can provide GREAT answers if you make it HARD on them but why make it hard?


Make sense?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Questions:
1: As a first timer, would the 5" or 6" kit be better? The garage is composed of my car, Mazda 3, and a Honda CRV. No trucks.

See my articles here,

5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers


Thin is in... New Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads

2: Menz's polishes used with Meg's MF discs acceptable?

I've seen micro-marring using SF 4500 with a Megs MF Pad on my black test panels. I compared to Menzerna SF 4500 with a soft foam pad and no micro-marring. Read what I posted previously about this system. It's a great system for production detailing.

3: It seems D300 is similar to M105 in cutting power. Since my vehicle's paint isn't in bad shape, would a less aggressive product like Menzerna's Power Finish work? Using Mike Phillips, "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" in mind.

SI 1500 will take care of the majority of swirls and scratch problems for most people. Works great with foam pads on any DA Polisher.

do I still need to follow up with an less aggressive product?

Menz's Super Finish polish be a good? 106FA vs 85RD?

Yes. 106FA over the 85RD as it will tackle deeper swirls or haze left behind from an aggressive process. Get 85RD if you're a perfectionist.

5: I also intend to purchase a sealant, this would be the first time I have every used such a product. I have narrowed down to 2 products, Meg's #21 and Menz's Power lock sealant. Which would you recommend?

I was at Meguiar's when M21 was introduced and I've had nothing but good luck with it. That said I do like the Powerlock. Dries fast, leaves a very slick surface. To good features in a paint sealant.


Hope that helps...

 

[Gman91]

Thanks for all the replies, sorry about that Mike!

After some more research and reading the responses, I definitely want to keep it simple.

1: MF 5" kit and use provided D300. If hazing occurs after D300, then purchase M205.
2: Apply Menz's Power Lock Sealant using Single 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Hydro-Tech Crimson Finishing Foam Pad
3: D301 to finish

Sound good?

Thanks for the informative thread on the backing plates Mike! Good to know the provided "W67DA" will fit the 5 1/2 x 7/8 LC Hydro-Tech Pad's.

 

[Buckskincolt]

Thanks for all the replies, sorry about that Mike!

After some more research and reading the responses, I definitely want to keep it simple.

1: MF 5" kit and use provided D300. If hazing occurs after D300, then purchase M205.
2: Apply Menz's Power Lock Sealant using Single 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Hydro-Tech Crimson Finishing Foam Pad
3: D301 to finish

Sound good?

Thanks for the informative thread on the backing plates Mike! Good to know the provided "W67DA" will fit the 5 1/2 x 7/8 LC Hydro-Tech Pad's.

No need for the 205. The D301 is not just a wax it is a light polish that will remove any hazing from the D300. Not sure what the bonding is going to be like on the power lock topping on the D301 hybrid wax?:dunno:

Also some say not to apply an Sealant/wax with the crimson ht pads because they have a slight cut and could cause slight marring. I used them a lot before I heard that and never noticed any but have since switched to the Blue flat pads. Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Foam Pads, buffing pads, Lake Country curved edge pads, polishing pads

 

[Gman91]

Not sure what the bonding is going to be like on the power lock topping on the D301 hybrid wax?:dunno:

Very good point! I guess D301 would basically "erode" the sealant?

Perhaps D300 + D301, then sealant and then a "true" wax?

 

[Buckskincolt]

Very good point! I guess D301 would basically "erode" the sealant?

Perhaps D300 + D301, then sealant and then a "true" wax?

No, the deal is the sealant (power loc)won't want to bond to the protection coat left behind by the D301 (d301 is the final step in polishing with the MF system). So either another hybrid wax like chemical guys butter wet wax or a sealant like DP Poli-coat that has a mild cleaner in it that will make the sealant bond over the D301.
Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax 16 oz.
DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant, polymer paint sealant, auto paint sealant, DP Policoat paint sealant, paint sealer

 

[Gman91]

Also some say not to apply an Sealant/wax with the crimson ht pads because they have a slight cut and could cause slight marring. I used them a lot before I heard that and never noticed any but have since switched to the Blue flat pads. Lake Country 5 1/2 x 7/8 inch Beveled Edge Foam Pads, buffing pads, Lake Country curved edge pads, polishing pads

Wow, that's definitely great to know!

No, the deal is the sealant (power loc)won't want to bond to the protection coat left behind by the D301 (d301 is the final step in polishing with the MF system). So either another hybrid wax like chemical guys butter wet wax or a sealant like DP Poli-coat that has a mild cleaner in it that will make the sealant bond over the D301.
Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax 16 oz.
DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant, polymer paint sealant, auto paint sealant, DP Policoat paint sealant, paint sealer

Going with the DP Poli-Coat Sealant. BobbyG's review convinced me

Just to clarify the steps...

1. D300 with MF Cutting
2. D301 with MF Finishing
3. DP Poli-Coat Sealant with LC Blue flat pad
4. Apply wax with LC Blue flat pad

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Wow, that's definitely great to know!



Going with the DP Poli-Coat Sealant. BobbyG's review convinced me



Just to clarify the steps...

1. D300 with MF Cutting
2. D301 with MF Finishing
3. DP Poli-Coat Sealant with LC Blue flat pad
4. Apply wax with LC Blue flat pad

That will work and the Detailers Poli-Coat is a durable sealant. Do apply a thin coat and read this article before using it...

A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you




I wouldn't be too concerned about "bonding issues", to me that topic is much to do about nothing... I've never walked out into a garage the next day after a detailing session to find out the last coat of whatever I applied slipped off the car because it didn't bond and piled up on the garage floor surround the car body.

If the manufacture of a specific product states the surface must be chemically stripped for maximum bonding then follow their directions. IF not then don't turn waxing your car into rocket science.

See this very detailed article on the topic and then focus on having fun with detailing your car...


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

Sheldon explaining Quantum Physics to Penny on the Big Bang Theory

:xyxthumbs:

 

[bmwgalore]

+1 for Penny!

 

[Buckskincolt]

Wow, that's definitely great to know!



Going with the DP Poli-Coat Sealant. BobbyG's review convinced me

Just to clarify the steps...

1. D300 with MF Cutting
2. D301 with MF Finishing
3. DP Poli-Coat Sealant with LC Blue flat pad
4. Apply wax with LC Blue flat pad

Yes, that's it. Don't forget the wash and clay!
If you really like the power locK I guess you can give it a shot. Mike says to not worry so I'd take his word. Most of everything I have read says to apply sealants on a clean bare paint but that's sounds like its only for sealants that spec that?

I think you will be very happy with your results!:dblthumb2:

P.S. + Another for Penny!

 

[dougaross]

Wow, that's definitely great to know!



Going with the DP Poli-Coat Sealant. BobbyG's review convinced me

Just to clarify the steps...

1. D300 with MF Cutting
2. D301 with MF Finishing
3. DP Poli-Coat Sealant with LC Blue flat pad
4. Apply wax with LC Blue flat pad

I would always defer to Mike's opinion. However, it would seem to me that using 301 is going to leave a layer of wax before you use your sealant. This not leaving a pristine clean surface for the sealant. I personally use 205 instead of 301 that way I am only polishing not polish/waxing. Just my .02.

Are you going to use IPA(or similar) prior to sealant? If so you will strip any wax from 301.

 

[Buckskincolt]

I would always defer to Mike's opinion. However, it would seem to me that using 301 is going to leave a layer of wax before you use your sealant. This not leaving a pristine clean surface for the sealant. I personally use 205 instead of 301 that way I am only polishing not polish/waxing. Just my .02.

Are you going to use IPA(or similar) prior to sealant? If so you will strip any wax from 301.

IMO the D301 is much more forgiving to use for a beginner than 205. It sounds like he is going to use DP Poli-Coat for a sealant. It has a cleaner and bonding agents in it so I think it should not be an issue.

 

[Gman91]

I don't plan on using the IPA method; however, might try it just to see if there is any noticeable difference over time.

Well looks like my list is just about finalized! Other then some MF towels and accessories.

Thanks a lot guys!