mbpress01
New member
- May 28, 2014
- 120
- 0
First, I would like to say thanks to all the forum members on this site. As a weekend warrior, where every minute is important, I am always reading/researching time vs results. Clearly, the more time you have (as a hobbyist) the better result you will have and since most of us don't have unlimited time maximizing this ratio is critical.
Last year I purchased a black GS 350 and wanted to ensure that the paint stayed in good shape. After doing a ton of research I went all in with the rupes system (pads, polishers, and polishes). I had the 15, Duetto, mini, more pads that i could count and polishes. After spending hours researching the various "techniques" and such I, unfortunately, scrapped the whole system. My reasoning was that, regardless what others may think, Rupes, as well as every other DA polishers that is not forced rotation, will stop if the pad is not flat. Most importantly, modern cars, with all the curvy panels make these non-forced DA almost impossible to polish unless you have tons of time. No doubt anyone can get it to work if you can spend 1 hr on a 2x2 section, but these so called techniques to me are just like the mythical unicorn. You hear about it, see pictures of them but never see it live. I think it is time that anyone who has the technique, please film it and post to these forums since I would love to know how to make it spin on a curvy/vertical panel. And I can state unequivocally I tried very very hard to make this system work. Super slow arm speed, tilting the machine back and forth, washer mod, etc. I read and tried it all. I actually wound up polishing the whole car with the mini and that took 20 hours and it came out marginal.
End result was a $3k loss or so. I ebay all the stuff for basically nothing. Now onto the Flex.
Initial Impressions:
- This machine is a beast. It is not that heavy, the trigger is smooth (meaning it locks into place very easily), it is easy to swap the backing plate to the LC 4 inch, and at least for me operates perfectly. (Please make sure to buy ear plugs though - any DA is loud and I couldn't believe how much better one can operate the machine with the reduced volume - not sure why though).
- I started on my dad's car since I wanted to see what this machine could do on a test car - 2009 Ford Taurus Blue Metalic.
- Products - White hybrid, 4 inch LC backing plate and Menzerna 3in1. Wash Clayed car first.
- I followed somewhat the Tato technique - 2 hard passes, 2 medium passes and 2 weight of the machine passes.
- After the first 2x2 section was done I was like "WOW" what a machine. I actually had fun polishing for the first time.
- I continued on the whole car and where this tool shines is on the curvy/vertical panels. It took no time to finish the doors, bumpers, etc. The smaller areas (behind the side mirrors) you still need a mini since it won't fit.
- What was really great was that I finally good the nice looking buffer trails on the whole car. I can state that on curvy vertical panels with the Rupes you got polish that was just moved around, no real nice buffer trails and minimal correction.
- The whole process took no more than 6 hrs and the car came out great - one step below show car finish - all the freakin swirls were removed. I literally couldn't believe it and it was just fun to do this project. Every time with the Rupes i was very frustrated, angry, upset etc since the damn pad would stop every 5 seconds the minute it hit anything curvy and vertical. Sorry, but Rupes has some real issues and this is well documented in various places on these forums.
Final Thoughts:
Contrary to what is generally said, the Flex is the better tool for the weekend warrior AND for the newbie. My reasoning is that the newbie doesn't have to learn these "special techniques", just prime the pad and polish. I initially thought that the paint may burn or some other catastrophe may happen with the Flex but was that way overblown. You really can't damage the paint at all if you are just a little careful. As we all see tons of questions about Rupes vs Flex, for me at least and if you are a newbie/weekend warrior, the answer is clear - get the Flex (and this is from someone who spent a ton of money on Rupes). The whole thing about the smoothness of the Rupes is probably very important for the professionals whom perform details every day year in and year out but again I didn't find the Flex to be any different than the Rupes in terms of ease of use / smoothness. Finally, we hear comments about the Flex walking on you and such and I did have that happen but I didn't really care, I just strong forced the pad on the panel and got the beautiful buffer trails. Man that was a great feeling as I knew that the paint was being corrected. All in all the Flex is really remarkable.
Appreciate any comments and thanks for reading (sorry to be long-winded but I really hope this at least helps some in their decision).
Last year I purchased a black GS 350 and wanted to ensure that the paint stayed in good shape. After doing a ton of research I went all in with the rupes system (pads, polishers, and polishes). I had the 15, Duetto, mini, more pads that i could count and polishes. After spending hours researching the various "techniques" and such I, unfortunately, scrapped the whole system. My reasoning was that, regardless what others may think, Rupes, as well as every other DA polishers that is not forced rotation, will stop if the pad is not flat. Most importantly, modern cars, with all the curvy panels make these non-forced DA almost impossible to polish unless you have tons of time. No doubt anyone can get it to work if you can spend 1 hr on a 2x2 section, but these so called techniques to me are just like the mythical unicorn. You hear about it, see pictures of them but never see it live. I think it is time that anyone who has the technique, please film it and post to these forums since I would love to know how to make it spin on a curvy/vertical panel. And I can state unequivocally I tried very very hard to make this system work. Super slow arm speed, tilting the machine back and forth, washer mod, etc. I read and tried it all. I actually wound up polishing the whole car with the mini and that took 20 hours and it came out marginal.
End result was a $3k loss or so. I ebay all the stuff for basically nothing. Now onto the Flex.
Initial Impressions:
- This machine is a beast. It is not that heavy, the trigger is smooth (meaning it locks into place very easily), it is easy to swap the backing plate to the LC 4 inch, and at least for me operates perfectly. (Please make sure to buy ear plugs though - any DA is loud and I couldn't believe how much better one can operate the machine with the reduced volume - not sure why though).
- I started on my dad's car since I wanted to see what this machine could do on a test car - 2009 Ford Taurus Blue Metalic.
- Products - White hybrid, 4 inch LC backing plate and Menzerna 3in1. Wash Clayed car first.
- I followed somewhat the Tato technique - 2 hard passes, 2 medium passes and 2 weight of the machine passes.
- After the first 2x2 section was done I was like "WOW" what a machine. I actually had fun polishing for the first time.
- I continued on the whole car and where this tool shines is on the curvy/vertical panels. It took no time to finish the doors, bumpers, etc. The smaller areas (behind the side mirrors) you still need a mini since it won't fit.
- What was really great was that I finally good the nice looking buffer trails on the whole car. I can state that on curvy vertical panels with the Rupes you got polish that was just moved around, no real nice buffer trails and minimal correction.
- The whole process took no more than 6 hrs and the car came out great - one step below show car finish - all the freakin swirls were removed. I literally couldn't believe it and it was just fun to do this project. Every time with the Rupes i was very frustrated, angry, upset etc since the damn pad would stop every 5 seconds the minute it hit anything curvy and vertical. Sorry, but Rupes has some real issues and this is well documented in various places on these forums.
Final Thoughts:
Contrary to what is generally said, the Flex is the better tool for the weekend warrior AND for the newbie. My reasoning is that the newbie doesn't have to learn these "special techniques", just prime the pad and polish. I initially thought that the paint may burn or some other catastrophe may happen with the Flex but was that way overblown. You really can't damage the paint at all if you are just a little careful. As we all see tons of questions about Rupes vs Flex, for me at least and if you are a newbie/weekend warrior, the answer is clear - get the Flex (and this is from someone who spent a ton of money on Rupes). The whole thing about the smoothness of the Rupes is probably very important for the professionals whom perform details every day year in and year out but again I didn't find the Flex to be any different than the Rupes in terms of ease of use / smoothness. Finally, we hear comments about the Flex walking on you and such and I did have that happen but I didn't really care, I just strong forced the pad on the panel and got the beautiful buffer trails. Man that was a great feeling as I knew that the paint was being corrected. All in all the Flex is really remarkable.
Appreciate any comments and thanks for reading (sorry to be long-winded but I really hope this at least helps some in their decision).
