Flex, Hydro pads, Pinnacle product issues..

John_k

John_k

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Hey AG, I'm having some issues with my products marring my paint. I'm using the pinnacle line up as I thought they where a good first polish to buy. I used a orange polishing pad with the #2 fine swirl remover and received poor results of cutting and the heavy marring issue. Stepped up to #3 on a fresh and primed orange pad. Got better results but had a slight haze and minimal marring. Followed with #1 ultra fine on a red finishing pad. I pulled my car into the sun and stripped the paint of oils/fillers and found holograms...

I am new to the polishing world, but I don't think my technique is to blame here.. I've tried various pressures, speed and number of passes and receive the same results on all panels I have done using the #2. I find it odd that the "softer" polish is marring the paint. I'm lost as what to try. Any advice???



Fwiw, I am working clean, primed pads, clayed paint...
 
For cutting/compounding = Orange Pad. Pinnacle Advanced Compound/Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover with the Orange Pads

For polishing = White Pad. Advanced Finishing Polish for this Pad.

For LSP = Red Pad. Wax or Sealant for this Pad.

Speed setting for the Flex 3401 should be at 5 for both. If that does not work bump it to 6.

IMO your technique needs to get better. The marring IMO is caused by the RED PAD. IMO the red pad will not help in polishing.Use the White Pad for final polish. I think you will solve your marring issue.

Additionally, you need to go with slow up and down and side to side motion. If you are using the handle that came with the Flex....ditch it and try using your free hand on the center handle.

All the products you mentioned are excellent choices. Please show pics if you have them.

If this is your 1st time....it IS YOUR TECHNIQUE not product.

Remember, TECHNIQUE trumps product anytime.
 
Just to be clear, which Flex machine are you using?
 
With the LC hydro-techs the cyan is a cutting pad, orange is a polishing pad, and the red is a finishing pad with a light cut. My arm speed is slow as well, about a inch per second while performing section passes. I'm know my technique isn't the best but I thought it would be good enough to receive better results. It's the XMT line up of products.
 
John_k said:
3401
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Ah, yeah, those products are highly used, and quite reputable.

What kind of vehicle/paint are you working on?

Any chance we can see some pictures?
 
Chevy, I know the paint is a hard. I'll have some pictures in the a.m.
 
John_k said:
With the LC hydro-techs the cyan is a cutting pad, orange is a polishing pad, and the red is a finishing pad with a light cut. My arm speed is slow as well, about a inch per second while performing section passes. I'm know my technique isn't the best but I thought it would be good enough to receive better results. It's the XMT line up of products.
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Oops since you are using Hydrotechs the Pad colors are different.

Sorry I did not read what Lake country Pads you were using.

The Cyan (Blue Pad) is for compounding


The Tangerine (Orange Pad) is for Polishing

The Crimson (Red Pad) is for LSP.

If it were other Lake Country Pads it would be Orange, White and Red.....I am sorry for misleading you the 1st time.

But with the Flex 3401 you should not have any marring issues. Again, I think it is your technique.

As for XMT I am not familiar with them. You mentioned you use Pinnacle at 1st. But my guess it would be the same....compounding, polishing and LSP.
 
John_k said:
Chevy, I know the paint is a hard. I'll have some pictures in the a.m.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Have you taken a look at this video?

[ame="http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Arn_kVH3BVc"]How to use the FLEX 3401 Dual Action Polisher - YouTube[/video]
 
dlc95 said:
Thanks!

Have you taken a look at this video?

How to use the FLEX 3401 Dual Action Polisher - YouTube
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I have and I used the same technique that Mike shows, only difference is the products being used. I stepped up to the cyan pad with XMT #3 and still received the micro marring issue after following it with XMT #2 on the orange pad.

I did use the XMT #2 with the orange pad on a Dodge to remove some "Arizona pin-stripes" and it came out perfect. Maybe it's just the paint on my truck, not sure. The local autozone carries some Meg's products so I'll try those and see if results change on my paint.

Lastly, I couldn't capture and decent pictures of the marring or holograms. I also don't understand where my technique is lacking. I keep even pressure of the head of my tool, smooth and slow arm movement, proper passes. I know there is a lot for me to learn but I feel like I have the basics down.

If anyone reading this and is in the Phoenix area shoot me a pm, love to learn from some of the pros here...
 
Hey John. Were you inspecting your work after each section? It's very important to inspect with some light source, just for instances like yours. If I may recommend a good panel wipe that is very inexpensive. Look into Meguiars d114. One gallon can make you 16 gallons of panel wipe! Also what MF's are you using?
 
I was using a 10% IPA wipe down with the cobra super plush micro fonder towels. Thanks for the advice on the d114! I'll have to look into that.
 
John_k said:
I have and I used the same technique that Mike shows, only difference is the products being used. I stepped up to the cyan pad with XMT #3 and still received the micro marring issue after following it with XMT #2 on the orange pad.

I did use the XMT #2 with the orange pad on a Dodge to remove some "Arizona pin-stripes" and it came out perfect. Maybe it's just the paint on my truck, not sure. The local autozone carries some Meg's products so I'll try those and see if results change on my paint.

Lastly, I couldn't capture and decent pictures of the marring or holograms. I also don't understand where my technique is lacking. I keep even pressure of the head of my tool, smooth and slow arm movement, proper passes. I know there is a lot for me to learn but I feel like I have the basics down.

If anyone reading this and is in the Phoenix area shoot me a pm, love to learn from some of the pros here...
Click to expand...

Yeah, something like this can be very difficult to diagnose without being there. I'd hate to see you spend more money on product, but yeah, even Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish is worth a shot. I think they carry the m105/m205 there as well.
 
John, Adding to using D114 as panel wipe you can check here.

http://homedistiller.org/distill/dilute/calc

I'll mix D114 at no stronger than 128:1 usually at 192:1 along with at least 25%~28% alcohol.

On the calculator page that I linked the second calculator is the one to use. Change the values to US ounces and go across the top line.

For instance I'll use a 51 ounce pump sprayer. So I'll put 51 in the first box, 28 in the second, 91 in the third (for 91% IPA alcohol). It will then automatically fill in the next 2 boxes beneath there with the proper amount (s).

Just make sure that you changed all the dropdowns to US fluid ounces.



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