FLEX L3403 VRG Lightweight Circular Polisher

HateSwirls

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Jun 24, 2013
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I've had my eye, my good eye on the Flex L3403 for about 3 months now.
My rotary I have now is just too heavy for me since back surgery so I thought maybe the Flez Lightweight might be the way to go.
From time to time I need my rotary, either to remove sanding marks or stubborn water spots, heavy swirls,etc.

Questions for those who has this model and has rotary experience.

When I read "Lightweight " two things came to mind, 1 being its light, not as heavy like the rotaries we grew up using, 2 meaning not heavy duty to handle big jobs.

So here's my questions.
Can it handle working on an entire large truck or car?
Does it handle any different than lets say a DeWalt?
Is it loud?

I plan on using 5.5 inch pads if I were to buy it but can it handle large pads if I have a need to use them?
Can it handle an 8 inch wool pad?

I have my heavy rotary, my GG6 and my PC.

Feed back please
 
I've had my eye, my good eye on the Flex L3403 for about 3 months now.
My rotary I have now is just too heavy for me since back surgery so I thought maybe the Flez Lightweight might be the way to go.
From time to time I need my rotary, either to remove sanding marks or stubborn water spots, heavy swirls,etc.

Questions for those who has this model and has rotary experience.

When I read "Lightweight " two things came to mind, 1 being its light, not as heavy like the rotaries we grew up using, 2 meaning not heavy duty to handle big jobs.

So here's my questions.
Can it handle working on an entire large truck or car?
Does it handle any different than lets say a DeWalt?
Is it loud?

I plan on using 5.5 inch pads if I were to buy it but can it handle large pads if I have a need to use them?
Can it handle an 8 inch wool pad?

I have my heavy rotary, my GG6 and my PC.

Feed back please

If you can afford it, get the Flex PE. The 3403 is for light buffing only. It cannot handle a 8" wool pad without overheating. Anything over 1200rpm I need ear plugs..has a high pitch sound.
 
Thanks for the feedback.
I was afraid someone one give me an answer as you did.



If you can afford it, get the Flex PE. The 3403 is for light buffing only. It cannot handle a 8" wool pad without overheating. Anything over 1200rpm I need ear plugs..has a high pitch sound.
 
If you are using a dewalt or similar rotary, I gotta believe the Flex PE 14 is much lighter than that.
 
I started with a PC, upgraded to 3401, and recently bought the PE14......it's pretty light. With any power tool, 1-2 lbs is a HUGE difference. Just depends on what you are comparing it with I guess.
 
I was in the same boat as you and ponied up for the PE14. It goes down to 600rpm while I believe the 3403 only goes to 1200 (I think). The lower speed is helpful for finishing and not burning through paint. The PE14 is very light and a pleasure to use.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
The Flex PE14 offers,

Low of 400 RPMs when you feather the trigger.
600 RPMs on the 1 speed setting with trigger locked.
A high RPM of 2100 RPM

With modern clear coats you don't want to create heat so you don't need a rotary buffer that goes to 3000 RPM.

The Flex PE 14 weighs approximately 5 pounds but it's not just the light weight it's the compact size. By this I mean you don't have a bulky tool body to man-handle. This is really nice when you're doing any type of precision or surgical buffing in tight areas.


From this thread...

Blown 1934 Ford Pick-up - Show Car Makeover - Modeled by Kristin

Dampsanding with Meguiar's #3000 Finishing Discs and using the Optimum 3" Microfiber Pads on a Flex PE 14 Rotary Buffer to remove the sanding marks..

Dampsanding34Ford01.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford02.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford03.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford04.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford05.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford06.jpg


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Dampsanding34Ford08.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford09.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford10.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford11.jpg


Dampsanding34Ford12.jpg



Project34077.jpg






Here's a couple of articles, this first one actually has a TON of info in it if you care to read all the way through it. I used a very cool car for the testing to and this was a 100% rotary buffer, hologram free finish project.

Bumblebee - Testing out the NEW DeWALT DWP849X

49SedanDelivery002.jpg




Lots of info in this review alos...


DeWALT DWP849X vs Makita 9227C Rotary Buffers

DeWALTvsMakita002.jpg




:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks Mike for breaking it down for us.
I think I'll order the 3504 Lightweight.
Something about it that excites me:)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online
 
Thanks Mike for breaking it down for us.
I think I'll order the 3504 Lightweight.
Something about it that excites me:)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online

Probably excited by the $100+ price difference between the two.;)
 
If you decide to order it, let us know how you like it! Kinda sounds like you had your heart set on that one anyway, and just looking for confirmation of your choice!
 
Not really about the money , it's the machine that excites me:dblthumb2:
I'm still reading reviews on it, some good, some bad but I'll make up my mind and go with what it tells me:)

It does have power, it's light and that's what makes me wanting to buy it.
I understand it's not a work horse meaning not best to work it hard all day using larger pads , no problem because my pads are 5.5 inch pads so it should do fine for me.

I remember my first rotary in the early 80's, I bought a used Craftsman, very heavy, guessing the weight was about 15 pounds which back then wasn't a problem, now I'm 49 years old and, um, well I prefer not to use the heavyweights. Lol
That was how I first learned how to do paint corrections.
You guys that's just starting out have it made with all the cool Prodcuts and machines offered us today.
I didn't have AG back then either. Lol


Probably excited by the $100+ price difference between the two.;)
 
Thanks Mike for breaking it down for us.
I think I'll order the 3504 Lightweight.
Something about it that excites me:)


For what it's worth...

Except for doing really hard grunt work or as I like to call it,

Chopping

I always reach for the Flex PE14 first when I need a rotary buffer.

For example, when I wetsanded and buffed out this 1964 Malibu I did all the rotary work using a 7" wool cutting pad and a 6.5" foam polishing pad on the Flex PE14.

How to wet sand a car
[video=youtube_share;5zDuFzvKSAI"]How to wet sand a car[/video]​


Here's everything I used from start to finish...

64_Malibu_Show_Car_Makeover_027.jpg

All tools, pads and products can be had on Autogeek.net or call Customer Care at,
1-800-869-3011

When I had to remove some really stubborn oxidation and stains off the side of a boat I used the DeWALT 849X as I had to pretty much lean into the polish a little to really cut deep and fast.


24' Pro-Line Boat - Extreme Marine Makeover - Oxidation Removal!



This is how you lean into the buffer....

2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_031a.jpg



DeWALT 849X sans handle and grabbing the rubber overmold on the head of the unit and the pushing down hard...

2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_032a.jpg




It's all about having and then using the right tool for the job but in all cases, my preference is to grab the Flex PE14 first.


Besides the lightweight and compact size, the two most important physical features that separate the Flex PE14 from the DeWALT or the Makita or any other FULL SIZE rotary buffer is the RPM Range.

Now follow me on this because all my life I've been correcting this little tidbit of information....

Clearcoats don't like heat. Buffing clearcoats at high speeds is counterproductive.


Here's the confusion.... I can't count how many time's I've seen some person post,


You need HEAT to break down the abrasives.


That is so wrong.

First, if you're using a product with abrasives that break down, then it's PRESSURE over TIME that breaks down the abrasives not heat.

Heat is an unnecessary byproduct of the process.


  • The Flex PE14 has a range from 400 RPM to 2100 RPM
  • The Flex 3403 has a range from 1100 RPM to 3700 RPM
  • The DeWalt has a range from 600 RPM to 3500 RPM
  • Makita has a range from 600 RPM to 3000 RPM
The only time you need the high RPM is when buffing out gel-coats or polyester or epoxy molds. Or grinding steel or concrete.


In fact, if you watch this video we made with Meguiar's last summer you'll hear that M100 was designed to be used at 1000 RPM, not high speeds at all in the history of buffing.


Questions about Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds? Watch this video!



Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds Round Table Discussion at Autogeek with Mike Phillips
[video=youtube_share;Ugl35QexkkQ"]Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds Round...[/video]​


Recently I had the opportunity to host a round table discussion here at Autogeek’s Show Car Garage with experts from Meguiar’s including,

Jason Rose – Technical Service Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.

Mike Pennington – Global Director of Training for Meguiar’s.

Steve Coronado – Marketing Product Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.



In this round table discussion the four of us go over the benefits, features and intended use for each of these incredibly popular cutting compounds in Meguiar's Professional Line. This includes,


M105 Ultra Cut Compound - M101 Foam Cut Compound - M100 Pro Speed Compound
Meguiars_SMAT_Compounds.jpg



The goal of this round table discussion is to hopefully remove some of the confusion surrounding the intended markets and uses for these compounds and to help you choose the right compound for your specific detailing projects.


When Meguiar’s introduced M105 it quickly set a new standard for both cut and finish quality for an aggressive compound. M105 is what is called a SMAT product, that is it uses Super Microscopic Abrasive Technology instead of old fashioned coarse “rocks in a bottle” abrasive technology or diminishing abrasive technology, (DAT).

Following the success of M105, Meguiar’s introduced M101 Foam Cut Compound in Europe where it quickly became the new hot product being talked about throughout all the popular Internet detailing discussion forums.

M101 was not originally sold in the U.S. market but due to super high customer demand Meguiar’s was prompted to introduce the popular M101 to the U. S. market.

Next Meguiar’s introduced M100 Pro Speed Compound, which like the M105 and the M101 quickly gained popularity in the refinishing industry, detailing industry and even the do-it-yourself market.


Jason, Mike, Steve and myself discuss all the differences and similarities between these three compounds as well as describe the variety of ways each compound was intended to be used along with successful non-intended ways these products are being used throughout the entire spectrum of the refinishing and reconditioning industries as well as the car hobby in general.

A lively and informative discussion that will clear up any confusing you might have as well as help you decide with compound will be the best choice for your specific paint correction and detailing needs.

Yancy Martinez, the Creative Director for Autogeek really does a spectacular job of directing and editing this video making it not only informative but simply put, fun to watch.

So grab a bowel of popcorn and your favorite cold beverage and get ready to learn more about Meguiar’s premium, top shelf compounds.


On Autogeek.net

M105 Ultra Cut Compound

M101 Foam Cut Compound

M100 Pro Speed Compound











And just to include,

Here's what the gel-coat finish looked like when the boat arrived....

2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_011.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_012.jpg





And here's what it looked like when it left...


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_083.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_084.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_085.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_086.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_087.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_088.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_088c.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_089.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_090.jpg


2006_Proline_24_Supersport_Boat_Detailing_Class_091.jpg




For reference...



On Autogeek.net

DeWalt DWP849X 7”/9” Variable Speed Rotary Polisher

Makita 9227C Rotary Polisher



All it takes is a little bit of this...


:buffing:
 
If it were me...

I'd get the Flex PE14 and then add smaller sized buffing pads. 7" and smaller for wool and foam.

The Meguiar's Solo Wool Pads work well also.

Then as you can, add an extension for precision or surgical buffing as I like to call it. and some smaller wool and foam pads.


Surgical Buffing


On Autogeek.net

Lake Country Double-Sided Pad Rotary Buffer Adapter
LakeCountryRBExtension.jpg



Optimum Double-Sided Pad Rotary Buffer Adapter
OptimumyRBExtension.jpg






I use the Flex PE14 in all my classes for the portion of the class where people that have never used a rotary buffer learn how to use one.

How to use a Rotary Buffer



Craig's turn at cleaning up the paint on this classic 1966 Corvette....


First is learning how to pick up a bead using the 10 @ 10 Technique...
TrainingVette040.jpg



While Craig gets of feel for how a wool pad feels spinning against the flat panel I'm laying down a thin bead of product next to the curve or the raised body line because next he's going to bring the pad in their and cut the swirls and scratches out of the curved area without buffing on top of the raised portion...
TrainingVette041.jpg



First pick up the bead in the curved portion...
TrainingVette042.jpg



Now it's time to go up on edge and do some gentle cutting...
TrainingVette043.jpg




Freestyling and buffing like a pro!
TrainingVette044.jpg




It's a nice tool. In a perfect world it's nice to have both a full size and a lightweight compact size and then use the best tool for the job.

I know I probably didn't help with all of the above but I know from experience, you will appreciate the low RPM range of the Flex PE14 over the 1100 RPM lowest speed setting of the Flex 3403


:)
 
Guys, I've gone through Mike's iBook "Complete guide to a showroom shine" and have been reading a lot of threads on the Forum. I'm looking to do a three step process to remove swirls, polish, seal and wax my Shelby. My last decision is what tool to use. Porter Cable, Griot's, Flex... I've always waxed/buffed by hand and don't want to just throw money away. Give me your honest opinion on what DA tool is best bang for the buck?
Feed back please
 
Wow Mike you explained it well, very well put together so even I can understand it:)
Thank you for taking time out of your busy day to explain this.
I watched the video with you and the Meg guys, good stuff.

That little extension I have for when I use wool pads which isn't often but I leave it on always, just use to it I guess.
One thing I finally understood when talking with you on the phone was when you said "Clear coat likes low speeds "
I always used higher RPM's thinking it was the best way, for 30 years I've done that but now I'll use lower speeds now that I know which is best.
Mike do you remember back in the day the choices w had compared to now?, it was so simple back then. Lol
Back in the day our rotary didn't have all of the speeds settings they have now, no we'd hit the trigger and go.
 
Guys, I've gone through Mike's iBook "Complete guide to a showroom shine" and have been reading a lot of threads on the Forum. I'm looking to do a three step process to remove swirls, polish, seal and wax my Shelby. My last decision is what tool to use. Porter Cable, Griot's, Flex... I've always waxed/buffed by hand and don't want to just throw money away. Give me your honest opinion on what DA tool is best bang for the buck?
Feed back please

Best bang for the buck: Griot's Garage 6", powerful and lifetime warranty
If you can spend $350: Flex or Rupes, smoother machines compared to GG6
 
Wow Mike you explained it well, very well put together so even I can understand it:)
Thank you for taking time out of your busy day to explain this.

No problemo.... Whenever I answer a question on a forum I try to write it in a way that not only will it help the person asking the questions but help others into the future with the same questions... pictures, videos, links to additional related articles fill in all the blanks.


I watched the video with you and the Meg guys, good stuff.

The "Round Table" discussion format really worked well for explaining the different compounds.



That little extension I have for when I use wool pads which isn't often but I leave it on always, just use to it I guess.

The extensions are handy, they also make it easier to clean your pads in a Grit Guard Pad Washer as they get the body out of the way while pumping the pad against the Grit Guard Insert.


One thing I finally understood when talking with you on the phone was when you said

"Clear coat likes low speeds "

I always used higher RPM's thinking it was the best way, for 30 years I've done that but now I'll use lower speeds now that I know which is best.

Actually, it's clear coats don't like heat and by using lower speeds it helps to keep surface temperatures down. In my how-to book I have a section on destructive paint polishing and that has to do with surface temperatures of paint while buffing.

Mike do you remember back in the day the choices w had compared to now?, it was so simple back then. Lol

I remember very clearly. We didn't have the products, the pads nor the tools that are available today.

Heck I see people brand new to machine polishing turn out work comparable to the most seasoned pro all the time. It's just not that hard any more with the technology available today.


Back in the day our rotary didn't have all of the speeds settings they have now, no we'd hit the trigger and go.

I remember their were grinders and sander/polishers and the sander/polishers had 2 speeds with a switch to go from low to high.

Then the variable speed was introduced. I don't know who did it first but I do remember when I bought my Makita Rotary Buffer back in 1988, the year I went to work for Meguiar's, it was a new model and the variable speed dial was a new feature.


:)
 
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