Flex or Rupes?

Here's my $.02. Just recently switching from a Flex to a Rupes 21, I'm still adjusting to the Rupes. I've only done 1 full correction, and am currently correcting my wife's Yukon here and there. I did multiple vehicles with the Flex, mainly with the LC Hybrid 5" pads.

FLEX 3401 -
Pros: Forced rotation. This things put out some serious power, but it takes a little bit of a learning curve to "control" this power. It really teaches you how to control your pressure on panels and not to tip it on its side.

1 step machine - This thing is unbeatable for 1-step. From rock hard GM to soft Toyota paint, this will correct and finish with ease.

Built quality - Just a work of art. Flex engineers have put some serious time and effort into making sure every one of these machines functions properly, is put together perfectly, and will last.

Cons: Pad selection. I found that the ONLY pad I liked were the LC Hybrid. Is that a bad thing? Not at all, but it is the one reason I switched to a Rupes. I like using MF pads...I love using MF pads. I did not find a single MF pad the Flex works well with, so that put me off to using my PC7424. So I kept asking myself, why was I using my $100 machine
instead of my $400 machine?

Control - If you don't learn quickly, this machine can really turn into trouble. A little adjusting and LEARNING PROPER TECHNIQUE will not have you worried, but the Flex will try to talk your entire body off the hood the first time you turn the speed up.

RUPES 21:
Pros: Huge throw, big power. A huge leap of a PC7424 (can't speak for a GG6"), but this thing corrects well. Again, I'm still adjusting a few things to make it more comfortable for me to use, this is a big change from a Flex 3401.

Comfort - What feels to be a tad longer than a Flex, isn't a bad thing. Controlling this machine across panels is a breeze, it does all the work for you. Little downward pressure helps with fatigue and fighting yourself to correct faster. It just glides over the surface regardless of pad selection.

Cons: Build quality. Compared against a Flex, I wouldn't even put it in the same league. I took mine apart to clean it and it seemed well built, but some of the plastic parts felt cheap. I HATE the power cord, it will definitely be a modification I do in the future. It is extremely slick and hard, whereas the Flex is very flexible and not slick at all. IE: Won't slip off your shoulder when you blink like the Rupes does.

"Modifications" - Do I hate the fact that you have to put a $.10 washer on to help it? Of course I do, but it's a simple modification. Do I hate the fact that you have to buy a 5" backing plate just to use the pads you want? Of course, but Flex is the same way, so it's hard to gripe about this.

The Flex is 100% perfect out of the box. Change the backing plate and boom, you've got, in my opinion, one of the best overall work horses in the industry. Again, I switched because of pad selection. I really, really enjoy using Meguiars MF discs and they were almost impossible to use on the Flex. Just the pads drove me to switching machines. Crazy right? The Rupes is effortless when working across a panel, and with a little tweaking to your angle or downward pressure, it will not stop rotation.
 
Point is, for now I'd suggest the Rupes. But you'll still want to have a Flex in your arsenal for those really curvy panels.

:iagree:This ^^^ agreed with I own a Rupes 15ES and Love it!!! Works great, smooth, finish wonderful, but eventually I may get me a Flex 3401 :xyxthumbs:
 
i doubt there will be a v.2 as they would of came out with it already at sema (just like a larger throw DA like many that are out now). no need to mess with something that's been proven to work and reliable...

:iagree: I dunno' about you..... but Flex not introducing another (forced rotation) polisher at SEMA went a long way towards showing where they were looking.


Didn't quote Corey, but KILLER POST dude!


Kevin,

One thing that has stuck with me for a long time now, since the introduction of the Rupes Duetto in fact) is how Mike P. said he'd never been one to jump on the train (of this or that buffer) but with the Duetto not only would he get on the train, but he would be the Conductor. (Paraphrasing a bit, but that's what he said about being the conductor.)

THAT is the reason we own one!
(Albeit even THAT ONE has had the all too talked about "washer mod".)

That is ALSO the reason we don't own any other Rupes machines.
Keeping them spinning is as much a work of art as the machines themselves.
Do they correct? Well YES. But would you have to switch out several times doing a vehicle, using the "Rupes System".... absolutely!

Were I you, I'd get the Flex, hands down. You are used to working with the rotary on a regular basis (thanks again to TundraPower for that new Dewalt after yours crashed) ;) and you work on a lot of larger vehicles down your way, that sometimes need 'muscle' more than 'finesse'. I've been wanting that Flex for a while now, would have bought it earlier this year (had not one guy stuck me with a bunch of towels he said he wanted). Well that and as you know.... the back problem(s) didn't get any better during the year.

IME the Flex (as many will/can/have state(ed) offers the best of both worlds. No buffer trail/holograms yet the power to grind through hours on the job without having to 'lift', or 'tweak' or 'finesse' or 'switch to another machine' or do "washer mods" just to get to the end of the day. I'd rather be the engine pulling the train than a passenger along for the ride. :D
 
Be like the rest of us, buy em both and buy em all LOL!!!

Well after all, Kevin is at least in Louisiana..... maybe he can head over to the Busbice Ranch and pick up some of the dough they leave scattered all over the place. They surely have some ways to get a 4x4 mighty dirty around there. (They even have a dedicated wash bay so they don't track mud right up to the front porch.) Might even stop by the Robertson's and see if they wanna' kick in a bit too. :laughing:
(Although just between the two of us.... I don't see the Robertson's keeping up their vehicles worth a DARNED! Might be why they have wraps on so many of them. :laughing: That and they have less than a 50th of the over 55,000 acres that the Busbice's have to tool around on.)
 
Just wanted to add a short comment.

I would love to try a Rupes and probably will in the next few months.

When you put a good pad on the Flex with a good compound or polish and turn the speed dial up to 6, there will be no doubt in your mind that you are holding the most powerful DA on the planet!

The thing runs at 9800 OPM and does not slow down no matter what you do.
 
Mike, do you think Rupes offers a finishing advantage? Occasionally, you'll see someone having a difficult time with a 3401 getting micro-mar free results on softer dark paint.

My experience is it "can" require the right product, pad and technique to get micro-mar free results on any softer paints but the good news is there's a lot of new ultra fine cutting polishes and soft foam pads to help out here.



While I'm guessing this is technique related, I can't help but wonder if the direct drive makes it more difficult?


I think it is something about the direct drive function but I'm not sure I can explain why this is. I just know what I see.

Some of you reading this thread will remember this car I buffed out.

For some of you this is the first time.

I did this car right at 2 years ago, it's a very rare car and a very cool looking car.

I tackled the major correction step using the Flex 3401 but I used the Porter Cable 7424XP to tackle the polishing step.



Christmas Detail - Ferrari P4 - Move over Rudolf

Ferrari_P4_After.jpg



The entire thread is worthy of a read-through but I comment on the use of the PC versus the Flex 3401 for the polishing step in post #32 after I was asked about this topic in post #31


Regardless of the use of the PC for the final finishing step I knocked out the major correction step as fast as it could humanly be done without making a mistake on the soft single stage red paint.


p.s.

The terms Major Correction Step and the Polishing or Minor Correction Step are both used and defined in both the first and second edition of my first how-to book.

Words mean things and in this industry there's so little industry standards in every dimension of the business that these terms are attempts and bring at least a modicum of resemblance to some type of verbiage standards.

Kind of like how everyone uses the terms RIDS, LSP and Test Spot.

:)
 
I don't own either...but it seems like with the Flex you can run the 6.5 pads and increase efficiency on larger panels, also go 5.5 for the smaller panels. If you go with the Rupes 15 your not getting much more than you already have, except a little larger throw and smoother running.

I guess bottom line I'm saying your going to add more diversity to your arsenal with the Flex.

Just my .02
 
I own the Flex 3401 and 14-2 rotary after using PC7424 for years. If I could only have one, it'd be the Flex 3401 (use 95% time) using LC adapter plate and 5" hybrid pads as Mike recommends.
 
I have a quick question for people who use larger pads for the flex, why? Arent you trying to correct not finish bigger cars at a shorter time?
 
I have a quick question for people who use larger pads for the flex, why? Arent you trying to correct not finish bigger cars at a shorter time?

I personally match up the size of the pad to the panel size I'm working on. So if I am going to do a large truck or SUV I will equip the larger 6.5" Hybrids.

For smaller vehicles and smaller panels, I will equip the 5" Hybrid pads. Matching up the pad to the panel not only saves time but also frustration. Imagine trying to fully correct and polish out a crew cab long box pick up with the 5" pads. Or trying to work on say a Smart car with 6.5" pads. Make sense?
 
I personally match up the size of the pad to the panel size I'm working on. So if I am going to do a large truck or SUV I will equip the larger 6.5" Hybrids.

For smaller vehicles and smaller panels, I will equip the 5" Hybrid pads. Matching up the pad to the panel not only saves time but also frustration. Imagine trying to fully correct and polish out a crew cab long box pick up with the 5" pads. Or trying to work on say a Smart car with 6.5" pads. Make sense?

:iagree:
 
Yeah i get it. What are you mostly using the larger pads for is what i am asking, i am guessing obviously a variety of things.
 
Yeah i get it. What are you mostly using the larger pads for is what i am asking, i am guessing obviously a variety of things.

Have you seen the size of some of the cars I work on?

Here's a flat panel car...

Testing Out Chemical Guys Black Wax - 1964 BLACK Catalina

Before
FG400_Test-Spot_029.jpg


Finished...
FG400_Test-Spot_031.jpg


FG400_Test-Spot_032.jpg



FG400_Test-Spot_033.jpg




This one has a few curves....

How to use the Flex 3401 for Show Car Detailing


watermark.php




Large pads = Large panels
Small pads = Thin panels

It's never a good practice to buff on top of raised body lines or edges


:)
 
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