hi geek I saw a lot of discussion about rupes and flex I own both and I own a rotary in my opinion go with flex. Rupes stop even with washer mod but the advantage of rupes its so easy to control and your arm will not sore. But if you want a deep gloss and very reflective finish go with a rotary.
Flex vs rupes go with flex my honest opinion
- Thread starter Wynex
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AeroCleanse
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- Nov 17, 2008
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My advice is get the rotary and a dynabrade head
:dblthumb2::applause:
2old2change
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- Jan 3, 2007
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I find it strange that many of you prefer the Flex over the Rupes. Since getting my 21 I have barely touched another da. Many of my close friends have sold or have for sale their 3401's . I have six da machines, a rotary and a dynabrade da head for a rotary and plan on thinning my collection down to the 21 , Makita and my 3" Griots . As soon a funds allow a LHR 75 will replace the 3: Griots. I guess it's just different strokes for different folks.
ski2
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- Dec 2, 2011
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I don't have either a Flex or Rupes, but have been doing allot of research in anticipation of a future purchase. The overwhelming opinion of those pros who understand how the Rupes is to be used (slower speeds, very little pressure), have the 21 with the 5" backing plate and who have the washer mod installed seems to be that it cuts their total correction/polishing time down significantly. They are able to do serious corrections that finish down so well that it eliminates an additonal step. And this seems to be with a variety of products.
Wheelzntoys
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- Dec 18, 2011
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A lot of new people come on this forum looking for advice, I find it difficult to recommend a rotary.
Finishing hologram free takes time with a rotary plus the strike through danger......for a new person.
Is your recommendation for a skilled DA user?
brianch
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- Jul 21, 2012
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I say buy both.
The forced action FLEX is likely to cut faster than the Rupes but might not finish as nice easily.
I wouldn't really call the FLEX a DA . It's more of a rotary/da hybrid.
The Rupes is a true DA and still has the disadvantages of a DA (it still stops if you work on curved panels sometimes)
I'm planning to get both the Rupes21 and FLEX VRG sometime this christmas.
I am interested in the dynabrade though
The forced action FLEX is likely to cut faster than the Rupes but might not finish as nice easily.
I wouldn't really call the FLEX a DA . It's more of a rotary/da hybrid.
The Rupes is a true DA and still has the disadvantages of a DA (it still stops if you work on curved panels sometimes)
I'm planning to get both the Rupes21 and FLEX VRG sometime this christmas.
I am interested in the dynabrade though
Ryry11
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- Oct 4, 2012
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I have both and use both. Like anything else, they both have their place. The 21 is awesome to use on flat panels, a joy to use as it is very smooth, and doesn't require much pressure to correct.
The 3401 is great on curved panels, or anything with a contour. The rupes still stops for me on anything with a curve, and yes I use the washer mod. I've tried my technique many different ways on curved panels with the rupes, and while I can get it to rotate, it doesn't rotate consistently and still wants to stop. Put the 3401 on it, turn it on, and it's going to correct without having to think about it, period.
Both are great machines, and I enjoy using both. I personally have never had the issues with vibrations like others gripe about with the 3401. I like using my flex, and like I said, I like knowing that if its on a panel, no matter how's by curves, it's going to spin.
The 3401 is great on curved panels, or anything with a contour. The rupes still stops for me on anything with a curve, and yes I use the washer mod. I've tried my technique many different ways on curved panels with the rupes, and while I can get it to rotate, it doesn't rotate consistently and still wants to stop. Put the 3401 on it, turn it on, and it's going to correct without having to think about it, period.
Both are great machines, and I enjoy using both. I personally have never had the issues with vibrations like others gripe about with the 3401. I like using my flex, and like I said, I like knowing that if its on a panel, no matter how's by curves, it's going to spin.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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Test them all out before you buy an the detailing bootcamp class coming up September 28th and 29th.
At last May's class I had a 1940 Chevy here that we buffed out using the Flex 3401 using both 6.5" pads and 5" Hybrid pads.
For the Rupes polishers I had a 1987 Buick Grand National...
Not only do you get to use these two tools plus more so you can have an opinion based upon holding the tool and using it but you also get to work on some pretty cool cars.
At last May's class I had a 1940 Chevy here that we buffed out using the Flex 3401 using both 6.5" pads and 5" Hybrid pads.
For the Rupes polishers I had a 1987 Buick Grand National...
Not only do you get to use these two tools plus more so you can have an opinion based upon holding the tool and using it but you also get to work on some pretty cool cars.
The opinion has changed a lot since February. In February, I couldn't believe everyone bashing the flex after so many years of praise it received. Now a lot of people are going back to praising the flex. I agree with above posters. Flex on curved panels and rupes on flat.
- Thread starter
- #18
That's why I posted here because there's a lot of people searching for the right tools to buy. Some post here about the tools but they are just telling what they heard from the others, that is why i posted the picture of my machine, flex and rupes Bigfoot. Finishing hologram free is easy you have to use fine polish and use the right pad. Are you a rotary user? If you use common sense, and don't run the rotary in high speed and move your arm, than burning paint will likely not happen. I bought flex and rupes because I'm curious about the talking rupes is okay, but the construction of the machine is cheap, rupes stop in curve panel with or without the washer mod. But its very good in flat panel and your arm will not sore.Flex will not stop, experience or not experience go with flex if you want a deep and very reflective finish go with rotary.if you want to spend a lot of time correcting go with portercable. If you have extra money go get all of them.
6supersport7
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- Oct 22, 2009
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I started with a rotary and still use it in some situations, mostly removing sanding scratches with a wool pad. I have found that their are simply some paints that is almost impossible to finish down halo free with the rotary. Sure, it might look it at first. Do multiple IPA wipe downs and put it in direct sun and there they are. I don't have to worry about this by doing my final polishing with a RO machine. I can get the same deep reflective finishes with a Flex 3401 or Rupes as my rotary.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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Most people don't check and sometimes they don't know how to check. Checking also takes time and can re-introduce marring into the paint.
Good discussion here...
Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer
I've learned that if a person thinks they can finish hologram free on every car they buff out then they can and more power to them. I'm of the opinion that while it can be done it's a safe bet that for the last machine polishing step...
"Change the action of the tool"
That means go from a direct drive single rotating action to ANY tool that offers both rotating and oscillating actions and then you don't have to worry about holograms returning down the road to haunt you.
At least by the time you add a coat of wax, a sealant or a coating, the entire finish, (that means the entire car), will have a very uniform appearance.