custmsprty
New member
- Apr 11, 2012
- 7,496
- 0
Just get it over with and buy both.
FLEX vs Rupes
- Thread starter Niko Molina
- Start date
Just get it over with and buy both.
Quiksilver5882
New member
- Mar 8, 2013
- 357
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I have a PC, GG3, and a Flex3401. The Flex is amazing! I really want a ZENTOOL 21 though 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dlc95
Well-known member
- May 18, 2013
- 6,062
- 26
94LT1
New member
- Mar 29, 2008
- 537
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Thats interesting because both larry at AMMO and Kevin brown talk about residue control and how great the rupes is at residue control.Makes me want to put down my flex and try a rupes 21.restores my faith in my flex.
MshawnBauer
New member
- Apr 18, 2013
- 203
- 0
I've used them both and prefer the Rupes. They are BOTH awesome, choose one, buy it and don't look back. You will be happy. Don't buy a knockoff (Zentool, glossit, whatever) your relying on AUTOGEEK to help you in your research, support autogeek, not some Chinese factory turning out imitations. Just my $.02
Evan.J
New member
- Sep 18, 2012
- 4,915
- 0
One thing I will say that with the Flex 3401 it has been on the market for 10 years and in those 10 years never has copy been made nor has the design changed (other than a slight color change).
If you need a repair on the Flex you can send it to Power House Tools in Nebraska.
If you need a repair on the Flex you can send it to Power House Tools in Nebraska.
mbpress01
New member
- May 28, 2014
- 120
- 0
My two sense - bought the rupes duetto, LHR 15 and the whole Rupes polishes and pads. Final conclusion - flat horizontal panels it was awesome. The second the polisher hit anything curved, slightly curved, convex or vertical it stopped spinning and I wound up spending so much time trying to get it to spin it was useless. Dumped them both at a huge loss and went with Flex. Don't waste your time with Rupes. I have seen many comments about technique with the Rupes, but I haven't seen one video where someone is actually showing their so called technique to video for us to evaluate, while I have seen a ton of videos on the Flex and they all show the power of this tool. Just my thoughts.
idk if it will make a difference but i think if you had got the rupes mini plus 21 you would swear by them...
I was more referring to how the Flex wants to throw you around on soft paints making it a very tiring machine to use. It corrects and finishes fine on soft paint but it works you out as well.
You're dead right about no machine being perfect, though. The last car I did needed a rotary to correct - nothing else was doing more than glossing the paint (with any wool, MF or foam pads incl Carpro Flash).
The Flex VRG is built far better of any of the DA's, without doubt and the rotary Flex is better made than the Rupes rotary too.
I'll see if I can find one for you. Sometimes I have to watch the angle I'm holding for convex surfaces or even have to ramp up the speed for concave surfaces but never so much that I'd say it was useless. And no probs at all for vertical.
I sometimes wonder if the lower voltage in North America means that DA's will bog down more easily since we seem to be able to correct with lower speed (3-4 with 8mm throw DA's) here, Asia and in the UK.
Kevin Brown
New member
- Apr 11, 2009
- 176
- 0
I am still the biggest fan of a large stroke random orbital polisher.
I've never used the LHR21ES and thought, "Drat! She's-a-stalling too much on the curves & bulges!"
• The design of the pad makes a difference
• Motor speed makes a difference
• The pad diameter makes a difference
• Polishing technique makes a difference
• The backing plate makes a difference
• The quantity and type of buffing liquid makes a difference
About finesse-polishing:
IF it is possible to fit the large stroke machine onto any particular area of the vehicle, AND the extended stroke does not make it difficult to polish the area... then I still believe that the large stroke random orbital is very tough to beat, in terms of its ability to create a benchmark finish.
Regardless the machine being used, the problems associated with finishing out soft paint has less to do with machine force and stroke, and more to do with polishing procedure, the quantity of buffing liquid being used, and the accumulated paint residue that has mixed into the buffing liquid (and has become attached to the buffing pad).
I cannot recall how many times I've engaged in discussions about finishing out haze-prone, soft, or finicky paint. Yet, by making simple adjustments to a guy's polishing technique (and without changing the machine being used), difficult-to finish paint types become not-so difficult-to-finish anymore.
As is usually the case, procedure can make or break polishing results. The best machines, pads, and liquids are obviously vital to achieving mind-blowing paint finishes, but someone's got to have the skill set to make it happen.
I've never used the LHR21ES and thought, "Drat! She's-a-stalling too much on the curves & bulges!"
• The design of the pad makes a difference
• Motor speed makes a difference
• The pad diameter makes a difference
• Polishing technique makes a difference
• The backing plate makes a difference
• The quantity and type of buffing liquid makes a difference
About finesse-polishing:
IF it is possible to fit the large stroke machine onto any particular area of the vehicle, AND the extended stroke does not make it difficult to polish the area... then I still believe that the large stroke random orbital is very tough to beat, in terms of its ability to create a benchmark finish.
Regardless the machine being used, the problems associated with finishing out soft paint has less to do with machine force and stroke, and more to do with polishing procedure, the quantity of buffing liquid being used, and the accumulated paint residue that has mixed into the buffing liquid (and has become attached to the buffing pad).
I cannot recall how many times I've engaged in discussions about finishing out haze-prone, soft, or finicky paint. Yet, by making simple adjustments to a guy's polishing technique (and without changing the machine being used), difficult-to finish paint types become not-so difficult-to-finish anymore.
As is usually the case, procedure can make or break polishing results. The best machines, pads, and liquids are obviously vital to achieving mind-blowing paint finishes, but someone's got to have the skill set to make it happen.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Thanks for chiming in Kevin...
I 100% agree with the above.
The Rupes company isn't about a tool it's about a system.
Last weekend I demonstrated how unbalanced the Rupes Bigfoot 21 is when holding it in the air on speed 6 without a pad and then holding it in the air on speed 6 with a pad and the you can see for yourself very quickly how smooth the tool operates with the pad on and how rough it is with the pad off.
The point being this is part of the engineering that went into the design of the "system" not the tool. Huge difference in felt vibration.
If you look at the pad you can see this tool is turned on yet the body is still and there is no vibration. The backing plate and pad are made by Rupes and engineered for this specific tool.
For the most part I've only used the Rupes "system" on all the cars I've detailed using Rupes. I'm like that with the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System too in that I don't try using other pads or chemicals with a "system approach" engineered and designed by the chemists and guys like Jason Rose at Meguiars and as such, I always get consistent successful results using when using either system.
100% agree with you on that too...
I always see people saying that technique is Number #1 and while technique is very important the most important factor as it relates to taking a swirled-out mess and creating a swirl-free, flawless show car finish starts with the abrasive technology because it is the abrasives FIRST that are in contact with the paint.
If the compounds and polishes used have archaic, caveman abrasive technology then even with perfect technique you're still going to end up with mediocre results. It all has to do with what's touching the paint.
Rupes compounds and polishes use amazing abrasive technology in fact, in the pictures below, the after shots of the Ferrari were after the UHS System but NO LSP. And the pictures showing the glossy looking paint on the 1956 Nomad were taken after using ONLY the Rupes Zephir Gloss COARSE Compound and the coarse blue foam cutting pad.
Mind blowing is the word that comes to me when I think about how coarse the compound and the pad is and then look at the finish results.
1998 Ferrari 355 F1 Spyder
Using the right technique with the Rupes polishers you can make them dance... even when buffing out complicated louvers over the engine compartment.
1978 Trans Am - Original Single Stage Lacquer Paint
This is the version that Burt Reynolds made famous in the movie Smokey and the Bandit. It was not in the movie but is the correct engine, transmission, T-tops, colors, wheels, etc that are the same as the car Burt drove in the movie.
1956 Chevrolet Nomad
I don't think it's a fair comparison to compare the Flex 3401 with any of the Rupes polishers as the Flex 3401 is a completely different tool in how it's designed and how it operates.
I know people want to compare them but all you have to do is buff out a few cars with either tool to come to the conclusion that they are very different tools.
My opinion is that the Flex 3401 is a beast when it comes to powering through any detail project simply because the pad won't stop spinning regardless of your skill or technique and you can use it successfully with any high quality abrasive technology and get great results. In other words, you can use it successfully with any high quality compounds and polishes.
In fact, the signed version of my Flex how-to book includes the inscription that starts like this,
The Flex 3401 is a BEAST!
The Rupes polishers and paint polishing system is indeed a true one-line system where when used as a system with the proper technique you can consistently create amazing results like shown in the pictures above.
That said, the Rupes polishers in my opinion do require more skill and better technique to great results than the Flex 3401 which requires less skill and less technique.
If you're new to machine polishing and/or new to the Rupes "system" then you should allow yourself some time to become proficient with these types of tools, pads and products. If you're willing to invest the time you can perfect your technique and make any of the Rupes polishers do anything you want them to.
It's just like any true skill set... you must pay the price of investing time and focused attention to attain true talent.
Good thread...
:dblthumb2:
I 100% agree with the above.
The Rupes company isn't about a tool it's about a system.
Last weekend I demonstrated how unbalanced the Rupes Bigfoot 21 is when holding it in the air on speed 6 without a pad and then holding it in the air on speed 6 with a pad and the you can see for yourself very quickly how smooth the tool operates with the pad on and how rough it is with the pad off.
The point being this is part of the engineering that went into the design of the "system" not the tool. Huge difference in felt vibration.
If you look at the pad you can see this tool is turned on yet the body is still and there is no vibration. The backing plate and pad are made by Rupes and engineered for this specific tool.
For the most part I've only used the Rupes "system" on all the cars I've detailed using Rupes. I'm like that with the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System too in that I don't try using other pads or chemicals with a "system approach" engineered and designed by the chemists and guys like Jason Rose at Meguiars and as such, I always get consistent successful results using when using either system.
100% agree with you on that too...
I always see people saying that technique is Number #1 and while technique is very important the most important factor as it relates to taking a swirled-out mess and creating a swirl-free, flawless show car finish starts with the abrasive technology because it is the abrasives FIRST that are in contact with the paint.
If the compounds and polishes used have archaic, caveman abrasive technology then even with perfect technique you're still going to end up with mediocre results. It all has to do with what's touching the paint.
Rupes compounds and polishes use amazing abrasive technology in fact, in the pictures below, the after shots of the Ferrari were after the UHS System but NO LSP. And the pictures showing the glossy looking paint on the 1956 Nomad were taken after using ONLY the Rupes Zephir Gloss COARSE Compound and the coarse blue foam cutting pad.
Mind blowing is the word that comes to me when I think about how coarse the compound and the pad is and then look at the finish results.
1998 Ferrari 355 F1 Spyder
Using the right technique with the Rupes polishers you can make them dance... even when buffing out complicated louvers over the engine compartment.
1978 Trans Am - Original Single Stage Lacquer Paint
This is the version that Burt Reynolds made famous in the movie Smokey and the Bandit. It was not in the movie but is the correct engine, transmission, T-tops, colors, wheels, etc that are the same as the car Burt drove in the movie.
1956 Chevrolet Nomad
I don't think it's a fair comparison to compare the Flex 3401 with any of the Rupes polishers as the Flex 3401 is a completely different tool in how it's designed and how it operates.
I know people want to compare them but all you have to do is buff out a few cars with either tool to come to the conclusion that they are very different tools.
My opinion is that the Flex 3401 is a beast when it comes to powering through any detail project simply because the pad won't stop spinning regardless of your skill or technique and you can use it successfully with any high quality abrasive technology and get great results. In other words, you can use it successfully with any high quality compounds and polishes.
In fact, the signed version of my Flex how-to book includes the inscription that starts like this,
The Flex 3401 is a BEAST!
The Rupes polishers and paint polishing system is indeed a true one-line system where when used as a system with the proper technique you can consistently create amazing results like shown in the pictures above.
That said, the Rupes polishers in my opinion do require more skill and better technique to great results than the Flex 3401 which requires less skill and less technique.
If you're new to machine polishing and/or new to the Rupes "system" then you should allow yourself some time to become proficient with these types of tools, pads and products. If you're willing to invest the time you can perfect your technique and make any of the Rupes polishers do anything you want them to.
It's just like any true skill set... you must pay the price of investing time and focused attention to attain true talent.
Good thread...
:dblthumb2:
tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 12
I couldn't have said it any better!!
IMO, Rupes puts out some pretty polishers, with a good build quality, and they have a machine best suited for pretty much any area of any vehicle.
Having a Flex 3401, a rotary and a DA for spinning 3" pads is the ideal setup.
I agree but I wouldn't dump the whole system. I use the Rupes on flat surfaces and the flex on curves and contours. It would be nice to see a video of someone polishing a curved panel with a 21 throw polisher. I don't think it's possible to do it properly because the pad won't spin.
If you get the pad spinning then you won't have enough contact with the curve to make it worth using.