FLEX XC3401 vs any of the new long stroke polishers???

flex vs long stroke machine

  • flex

    Votes: 25 65.8%

  • long throw rupees or gg

    Votes: 13 34.2%
  • Total voters
    38
Interesting discussion.

One thing I love about the detailing classes I teach, everyone gets to try all these tools completely hands-on, working on real cars, not a demo hood, and then they can make up their own mind which tools are the fastest and which tools are best for them. That's 2 things.



:)
 
I just did a time warp jump! I went from November 2016 to November 2019
 
JustJesus said:
I just did a time warp jump! I went from November 2016 to November 2019
Click to expand...
Wow, didn't even notice. Looks like I'm the dork who resurrected it. Wonder why it showed up as a 'New Post' in my Tapatalk feed?
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Wow, didn't even notice. Looks like I'm the dork who resurrected it. Wonder why it showed up as a 'New Post' in my Tapatalk feed?
Click to expand...

So we can go back and read through a great discussion?

No worries, Budget. It happens to all of us!
 
This just showed up for me as a “new thread”


Cool read tho!
 
Yeah...

The post date for the first post in this thread is,

11-19-2016, 08:38 AM


So over 4 years ago.


Here's the deal. If you LOOK at the top of the page you'll see a POLL.

If someone votes in the poll it's processed by the forum software as a NEW REPLY - even though the person that voted in the poll did not post a comment in this actual thread.


:D
 
Ahhhhh. That makes sense, Mike.

I didn’t even think of that....
 
From my limited experience with free spinning short/long throws and a mini rotary. I have the first gen G15 and the new G8.

Both take practice and i agree to what a few said once you get used to a non-force DA, you can get very used to correcting and/or preventing stalling - i find it fun actually :) And yes the rotary will definitively walk, its a tougher machine to control. But i haven't used it nearly so much has my free spinning DA's.

To do a whole car effectively though i would recommend a long throw paired with a mini 3 inch DA. I'm sure a G15 and G8 is very competitive with the flex 3401 in price.

Haha! Just caught its an old thread! :D
 
Time Warp!!!

Then and now I still prefer my long throw.
Currently use a 25mm with a 5in BP and a 25gram pad to get it to run its smoothest.
With Makita PO5000C and even the MILLE, im more inclined to use my forced machines ( I have a forced 3in mini on the way!)
The short throw forced machines feel more comparable to the longthrows when talking balance..when you have correct pad weight and it being level on panel.


My assessment from 2015 to 2022 on machines

Overall, longthrow is the smoothest and typically finishes the best
Same goes for correction speed, typically the fastest.



But..
Hard paints, forced is better at than the longthrows
Medium hardness, longthrow takes it.

Soft paint, whichever finishes out better in the test spot.

As for machine imbalance.
Pad weight is a huge factor, more so when were talking about going from a 6in to a 5in or a 5in to a 3in

Best way to dial in machine balance is keep a lineup of new pads, 15 grams(LC thin pros) all the up to 45 grams(LC HDO or B&S Low Pros)
Free spin each on mad speed. Go with the smoothest.
You'll find there will be a few different weight pads that feel the same...say 25, 30 and 35 gram... Youll want to go with the lightest. Reason being is your pad will load up with product and make pad heavier. You got a margin of room to where the product buildup wont throw off your optimum balance..

Foam composition.can also affect balance while in the surface such was a really stiff pad like buff snd shine low pros...too stiff to contour so you may get pad bounce/wobble.


Only machines where pad weight tuning really doesnt make the machine smooth are your standard throws 8mm/9mm D/As and the 3401
But best route for those are heavy HDO or force pads for 3401 and LC thinpros for the standard throws.
 
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