My Rupes 15 MKII finally gave out on me, so I ended up getting the Cordless Flex version of it. Is there anywhere to make it more powerful? Feels so underwhelming, stalls more, edges on the MKII were mediocre, on the XFE 15 EC they're so brutal. I have loads of tools at my disposal so it's OK, just a little disappointed on how weak this tool is compared to the Rupes.
Flex XFE15 150 18.0-EC Underwhelming
- Thread starter VT675
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Mike Phillips
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I've used this tool a lot.....
What pads are you using?
I'm assuming your spinning the factory backing plate which should be a 6" backing plate.
What pads are you using?
I'm assuming your spinning the factory backing plate which should be a 6" backing plate.
Dr Oldz
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- Aug 31, 2010
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Mike, I just got mine C-Fin and they come with a 5 inch backing plate.
To the OP. This machine isn’t a grinder. It is made for finishing work. Not really designed for heavy compounding. Mine churns and turns 5.5 inch Lake Country Force Hybrid pads rather nicely. It also spins 6.5 inch Lake Country Force Hybrid pads nicely with a backing plate swap. Is you battery fully charged?
To the OP. This machine isn’t a grinder. It is made for finishing work. Not really designed for heavy compounding. Mine churns and turns 5.5 inch Lake Country Force Hybrid pads rather nicely. It also spins 6.5 inch Lake Country Force Hybrid pads nicely with a backing plate swap. Is you battery fully charged?
Mike Phillips
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They originally came with the 6". I thought they changed this so that's why I asked.
Correct, it's not the Corrector, it's the FINISHER.
I have experienced people that held the wrong expectations for this tool and forgot the name.
Not say this is you VT675 - just saying for all those that read this into the future.
When this tool first came out and I wrote my review, I struggled to maintain pad rotation with 5.5" pads, especially thin pads, which goes against my normal thinking and experience.
This is what I use and show on 20 of these tools in my classes.
Bigger, thicker pads goes against my normal thinking and experience with FREE SPINNING random orbital polishers but when I switched over to these years ago I found the tool was better able to maintain pad rotation.
I had 133 people take my class in 2019 if memory serves me correctly. At least that many in 2018.
With the 6.5" LC Force Hybrid pads on this tool, I must say the majority of people liked this set-up and of course, I show all the popular tools on the market so they are comparing this tool to both the RUPES and Griot's BOSS 15mm free spinning long stroke orbital polishers.
This doesn't mean it's perfect, no free spinning orbital is without stalling issues, this is why I'm primarily of GD Guy.
Good question.
Mike Phillips
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Good point. Important point.
To the OP VT675
If you're not already doing this, train yourself to use the Power Lock Button and lock the speed trigger into place after turning the tool on. And then move your hand back to the back of the tools and hold the back of the tool by the BATTERY - not the actual tool handle.
The below are of me holding the cordless PE14 but the grip style applies to any of the FLEX cordless tools.
Like this,
Not this,
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for the reply Mike, I just think my expectations of this tool were unrealistic. The first couple passes I learned that holding it by the battery would yield better balance and resit stalling, still compared to my MKII it stalls in areas where the MKII wouldn't. Power wise it actually feels like the MK1 without the washer mod, I've been using the Rupes system since inception and got to a level where I would prefer it over the forced rotation and even the rotary.
Now, I'm reaching for the forced rotation and rotary way too often and I don't like it -- I don't mind it they're all amazing tools I just feel like this was a downgrade over an upgrade. I'm applying years of experience using the Rupes system to this tool, same pads that worked on the MKII and it's just not delivering. It seems you're using more thicker pads with it?
Currently all the MF pads work the same, it's the foam that I'm having issues with. 3D Spider Pads, Scholl Concepts Spider Pads, even the Rupes Yellow pads are giving me stalling where none existed before. I feel with the MKII, I could power through almost anything. I used to use LC pads very often, delaminating and shredding as well as poor customer service pushed me away from that company.
Now, I'm reaching for the forced rotation and rotary way too often and I don't like it -- I don't mind it they're all amazing tools I just feel like this was a downgrade over an upgrade. I'm applying years of experience using the Rupes system to this tool, same pads that worked on the MKII and it's just not delivering. It seems you're using more thicker pads with it?
Currently all the MF pads work the same, it's the foam that I'm having issues with. 3D Spider Pads, Scholl Concepts Spider Pads, even the Rupes Yellow pads are giving me stalling where none existed before. I feel with the MKII, I could power through almost anything. I used to use LC pads very often, delaminating and shredding as well as poor customer service pushed me away from that company.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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Just seems I obtained best pad rotation with the larger, thicker LC 6.5" Hybrid pads over any other pad I've used.
Me? I'm a BEAST guy, I don't have time for pad stalling with any brand of tool or stroke length. The exception to this is when working on soft paints that tend to finish out better with a free spinning random orbital polisher versus a gear-driven tool.
I'm not sure what the return policy is for tools on the AG store or anywhere for that matter?
Billy Baldone
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If I can share a short story. I attended Mike’s 2 day class last summer in Denver. Mike does an excellent job of keeping the “System” recommended by each manufacturer. But, on day 2 Mike says “Go play” As far as trying out different tools/pads/compounds... I actually bought the corded version the day after that class. But in the class, the combo that I found to work very well, was The Finisher, teamed up with Rupes Mille yellow pads. That is my finishing combo on just about every car. If it’s very hammered, I cut with a Rupes rotary, and finish with the Flex 15
Mike Phillips
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Thanks for chiming in Billy. :xyxthumbs:
Correct.
As a professional courtesy to companies like RUPES and Griot's, (companies that offer complete "systems"), I show their system AS A SYSTEM and let everyone make up thier own mind as to what they think or like or don't like.
Then after we work through all the differnet tool types and brands eventually we get to what I call,
Free-for-All
This is where everyone can use any tool and pad combo they choose BUT it's also when were going over what I teach called,
Production Detailing
That's where you're only using an AIO - no dedicated compounds, polishes and ceramic coatings. (we've covered this when we worked through the multiple tool sets)
My classes are very encompassing.
That was a fun class too!
Pictures: Colorado Roadshow Class- Denver Auto Shield
Just by happen-stance, look at the color code of some of the cars the class trained on.
And I extracted just the pictures from ONE TOPIC covered in my classes and wrote this article, which is the REAL DEAL.
The SECRET to Wet Wash Engine Detailing by Mike Phillips
Here's Billy spraying the engine compartment down with SONAX Plastic Care
Here's before,
Here's after,
Sorry for taking this thread off topic - just saying, if anyone ever wants to take a car detailing class with a time-proven, photo-documented history of teaching HANDS-ON classes without any chairs, then that's how my classes roll.
Remember that Billy? No chairs.
:buffing:
Correct.
As a professional courtesy to companies like RUPES and Griot's, (companies that offer complete "systems"), I show their system AS A SYSTEM and let everyone make up thier own mind as to what they think or like or don't like.
Then after we work through all the differnet tool types and brands eventually we get to what I call,
Free-for-All
This is where everyone can use any tool and pad combo they choose BUT it's also when were going over what I teach called,
Production Detailing
That's where you're only using an AIO - no dedicated compounds, polishes and ceramic coatings. (we've covered this when we worked through the multiple tool sets)
My classes are very encompassing.
That was a fun class too!
Pictures: Colorado Roadshow Class- Denver Auto Shield
Just by happen-stance, look at the color code of some of the cars the class trained on.
And I extracted just the pictures from ONE TOPIC covered in my classes and wrote this article, which is the REAL DEAL.
The SECRET to Wet Wash Engine Detailing by Mike Phillips
Here's Billy spraying the engine compartment down with SONAX Plastic Care
Here's before,
Here's after,
Sorry for taking this thread off topic - just saying, if anyone ever wants to take a car detailing class with a time-proven, photo-documented history of teaching HANDS-ON classes without any chairs, then that's how my classes roll.
Remember that Billy? No chairs.
:buffing:
- Thread starter
- #11
Just seems I obtained best pad rotation with the larger, thicker LC 6.5" Hybrid pads over any other pad I've used.
Me? I'm a BEAST guy, I don't have time for pad stalling with any brand of tool or stroke length. The exception to this is when working on soft paints that tend to finish out better with a free spinning random orbital polisher versus a gear-driven tool.
I'm not sure what the return policy is for tools on the AG store or anywhere for that matter?
I'm keeping the tool. Which pads would you recommend for a one step? I'm not familiar with LC pads anymore.
Also, for the PE150 18.0-EC where can I get that gorgeous black backing plate I see on all the marketing material? She never came with anything and I've been using the yellow ones.
Mike Phillips
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Here's the pads I would use if I were to use this tool for a one-step detail.
6.5 Inch Hybrid Power Finish White Pad (Single)
I do use these on the BEAST and the Supa BEAST when I do one-step production detailing.
WRAPT C5Z06
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- Nov 12, 2009
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Light cut with the force white pads, IMO. If you come across hard paint, I wouldn’t bother with these pads, unless the defects are very minimal.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dr Oldz
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- Aug 31, 2010
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I’m a fan of these pads Mark. I get good cut and a really nice finish out of them. I will say with the denser, tighter foam, they won’t cut much if you use a few pea size drops tho. Use the AIO or whatever abrasive a bit heavy if you want some cut and these pads will provide. Just my experience with these pads and I use them a lot. I usually keep 50 on hand in both sizes!
Also these pads are very unlikely to marr about 97% of modern paints I used them on.
Mike@ShineStruck
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- Apr 17, 2015
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The corded version was underwhelming
I hope the version 3 plate actually fixes it's flaw
Best option to make it more"powerful" is 5in BP and LC thin pro..at 15 grams it's the lightest pad, gains you pad rotation...
Ive never owned this tool and wasn't into pad weight tests when I used it on competition ready or autoality flex demo day.
So not sure if this machines lights a lighter pad or not balance/vibration wise..
Also griot boss pad system isn't the best weight for the G21..it actually liked a lighter pad for best balance... But smoothest I got it was with a 35 gram pad and 5in plate
Pad weights okay a big role in vibration, balance and pad rotation..
Only thing I never tried was swapping counter balance weights
May be a good idea adding a 3in plate and a 25mm counter weight to balance a 21 or 15mm
Thats another test down the road as I just had that thought just now ha
I hope the version 3 plate actually fixes it's flaw
Best option to make it more"powerful" is 5in BP and LC thin pro..at 15 grams it's the lightest pad, gains you pad rotation...
Ive never owned this tool and wasn't into pad weight tests when I used it on competition ready or autoality flex demo day.
So not sure if this machines lights a lighter pad or not balance/vibration wise..
Also griot boss pad system isn't the best weight for the G21..it actually liked a lighter pad for best balance... But smoothest I got it was with a 35 gram pad and 5in plate
Pad weights okay a big role in vibration, balance and pad rotation..
Only thing I never tried was swapping counter balance weights
May be a good idea adding a 3in plate and a 25mm counter weight to balance a 21 or 15mm
Thats another test down the road as I just had that thought just now ha
Mike@ShineStruck
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Ps...just read it likes a heavier pad for rotation? Is it due to their counter balance design vs Rupes/clones counter balance shape?
Mike Phillips
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I've shared this for years now, not sure what you read or where you read it?
When this tool first launched, my natural thought with "free spinning" tools was,
Thin is in
Makes sense? Less mass for the tool to have to maintain pad rotation. I put on the 5" backing plate and smaller, thin pads. Problem was, I had a really hard time maintaining pad rotation.
Down the road, I swapped out to the larger backing plate and used the large Lake Country 6.5" Hybrid pads, polishing and finishing, (there's no reason to use a cutting pad on the FINISHER), and to my surprise - the tool was better able to maintain pad rotation.
I attributed this to the word,
Inertia
The large pad has more MASS plus the larger size. Thus once the tool brings the pad up to speed, (speed 6), it will be easier for the tool to maintain pad rotation.
Not sure of anyone else that's ever typed this out anywhere? It's my theory but I could be wrong.
I am confident enough in this pad/tool relationship "for this tool" that I switched all 24 FINISHERS I use for my car detailing classes over to the 6" backing plates and show it with the LC Hybrid pads.
Dr Oldz
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One thing I will say about the both Flex Finishers is that they are sooo SMOOTH.
I bought both tools with doing only finishing work in mind. I’ll cut with a rotary or the Beast.
I don’t consider the Finishers too be cutting/compounding tools or even proper for AIO jobs. What they do provide is very smooth operation which translates into superior finishing capabilities or even true show car results if you will.
Also after doing some cutting, it can be physically exhausting. These two machine are a dream to run.
I bought both tools with doing only finishing work in mind. I’ll cut with a rotary or the Beast.
I don’t consider the Finishers too be cutting/compounding tools or even proper for AIO jobs. What they do provide is very smooth operation which translates into superior finishing capabilities or even true show car results if you will.
Also after doing some cutting, it can be physically exhausting. These two machine are a dream to run.
Mike Phillips
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I agree.
I would also say that is the most common comment I hear from those that take my class and during and after the class they have had the chance to use a LOT of tools.