Flex3401 not playing nice with ford jet black paint

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7O7SRT10

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I am using chemical guys hex logic orange pad and v36, I have tried changing pressure and arm speed and machine speed from 5-6, not only am I not getting the correction results but it's also marring the paint :-( My giros garage with the same set up is putting my flex 3401 to shame right now.
 
ok quick update, tried slower speed got better results but not good enough,ive been through a few different set ups and am getting poor results.This is only the 3rd car i have done with my flex,the previous 2 cars the flex 3401 took care of bussines like a champ,not this time. Thats ok back to work with gg!!
 
Sometimes different machines are needed. That's why we buy so many of them.

At least that's how I've convinced myself lmao :laughing:
 
Ok guys, I know that I am not the first person that has attempted to polish out a blackcar with the flex 3401, I tried again on my own personal car '' it's black also''
and got the same results :-(. I have a black CTSV to work on this weekend and really want to make the flex be the tool for the job, will the LC hybrid pads help??
 
I don't want to just come in and recommend the hybrids right off the bat as I have never used the hex pads but I am a fanatical user of the hybrids on the 3401 along with Menzerna products and I don't have any issues using this setup on my 2 jet black BMW.

If you decide on the hybrid pads I say go for the 5 inch size. In my humble opinion there isn't a better pad for the 3401. You will also need to grab the LC interchangeable bp system to run the 5 inch pads.

Just giving my 2 cents on what works for me.
 
I'm not trying to insult you, but it's probably your method. The flex is an awesome machine for correcting. My favourite correcting combo with it is the TB black wool, but the purple foamed wool will work well too. Check out a few cars I have done with that combo and tell me it doesn't correct!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/67502-caddy-brought-back-hell.html


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/67657-2010-mustang-foose-wheels.html


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/63991-2003-passat-lots-work.html


If you work the Flex properly with the black wool and M100 or 105, it will finish down very well indeed. I think I explain the method in the Caddy post. You have the right tool at your disposal. You need a different pad and polish to get the most out of it. That's my $.02.
:xyxthumbs:
 
smack said:
I don't want to just come in and recommend the hybrids right off the bat as I have never used the hex pads but I am a fanatical user of the hybrids on the 3401 along with Menzerna products and I don't have any issues using this setup on my 2 jet black BMW.

If you decide on the hybrid pads I say go for the 5 inch size. In my humble opinion there isn't a better pad for the 3401. You will also need to grab the LC interchangeable bp system to run the 5 inch pads.

Just giving my 2 cents on what works for me.
Click to expand...

According to most people your opinion is correct, I actually bought the 5 inch flex backing plate. I will be placing my order today!!
 
smack said:
I don't want to just come in and recommend the hybrids right off the bat as I have never used the hex pads but I am a fanatical user of the hybrids on the 3401 along with Menzerna products and I don't have any issues using this setup on my 2 jet black BMW.

If you decide on the hybrid pads I say go for the 5 inch size. In my humble opinion there isn't a better pad for the 3401. You will also need to grab the LC interchangeable bp system to run the 5 inch pads.

Just giving my 2 cents on what works for me.
Click to expand...

FWIW, that's all I've ever used on mine, period. Same with the Rupes.
 
Here's a picture of the Flex 3401 "optimized" and in action. Not the backing plate and pad.

1932_Ford_Phaeton_001.jpg




Here's the Rupes Bigfoot 21 "optimized", note the backing plate and pad.

Note in both pictures above I took them while Eric was buffing out the curved portion of the panel and pad rotation was maintained with both tools.

1932_Ford_Phaeton_002.jpg




As for cutting, get one of the original Purple Foamed Wool pads, the thick ones, not the thin ones as forced rotation tools like thicker pads better than thin pads, it's free spinning dual action polishers that tend to like thinner pads.

The fibers that make up a fiber pad are a type of abrasive that compliments any abrasive product you're using for maximum cut. Of course the downside is the fibers can leave their own "cut" in the paint that you'll need to polish out using foam.

If you're running into DA Haze or Micro-marring issues, sometimes it's the abrasive technology you're using and sometimes it's the paint.


Troubleshooting a problem
If you have ANY other type of polishes, do some troubleshooting with the finishing polishes by using a tape-line. You can troubleshoot the origins of the problem by troubleshooting.

Here how to troubleshoot this problem, in the below example I'm using Wolfgang polishes to test with as these have known good abrasive technology.

How to troubleshoot a problem
Find a section where you see the defects and place a tape-line across it so the defects are on both sides of the tape line.

Next buff on just one side using good technique with your compound and polish like you're doing a Test Spot.


Step 1 - Place a tape-line down across the section of paint where you see the problem.

Step 2 - Take your DA Polisher, a clean foam "polishing" pad and some Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and buff on one side of the tape-line for about 6-8 section passes. DON'T BUFF TO A DRY BUFF. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS SEE A WET FILM OF PRODUCT BEHIND THE PATH OF TRAVEL FOR THE POLISHER/PAD. Anytime you see you are buffing dry, STOP BUFFING.

Are the defects gone? If so, move to the next step.

Do the defects remain? If so post back here what you see.
​


That's how you can troubleshoot to see if it's the abrasive technology. The idea being to keep all factors the same except one, in the above example the polish. If there's no difference then you can keep the polishes the same and switch out pads. If it's foam pads you need to use clean pads to test with. If you find it's not product or pad, then you can test technique.

It helps of course to have a flat panel to look down on for troubleshooting. Once you find the culprit, switch your process for the car to what fixed the issue in your troubleshooting testing.


:xyxthumbs:
 
To the OP, here's a car that had some pretty hard paint and lots of nasty swirls and scratches, to remove them using the Flex 3401 we opted for "fiber pads".



1972 Corvette Stingray - Extreme Makeover - Process and Products Used


Then we tested Prima Cut and Prima Swirl with 6.5" Purple Foamed Wool Pads on Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polishers and also using small prototype buffing pads on a Flex PE14 using an extension adapter.

1972Corvette014.jpg


1972Corvette068.jpg


1972Corvette069.jpg


1972Corvette070.jpg



1972Corvette026.jpg




:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks for everyone's advice!! I really appreciate your guy's input. I will keep everyone updated with my progress on this situation.
 
7O7SRT10 said:
Thanks for everyone's advice!! I really appreciate your guy's input. I will keep everyone updated with my progress on this situation.
Click to expand...

Great. I hope it all comes together and you can get your black paint perfected. Keep us updated and don't hesitate to ask questions if need be.
 
UPDATE....

So I finally received my hybrid pads and I also ordered a bottle of WTSR 3.0, all I can say is WOW!!! The blue pad combined with the WTSR is an amazing combination, its removing the swirls with such ease and finishing down so nicely I am absolutely speechless.
 
Do you guys think the lc hydro pads are a good pad? I have those from my PC and if I get the flex. i would get the adapter system and use them. They are 5" pads
 
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