rmagnus
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- May 28, 2011
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Yes do it.
Flex3401 not playing nice with ford jet black paint
- Thread starter 7O7SRT10
- Start date
Yes do it.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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And that just goes to show that sometimes some paints like different abrasive technology and different foam pad designs.
I can't remember any paint "system", that the Wolfgang TSR and FG didn't finish out flawless on no matter the pad, tool, technique or even when working by hand.
It's consistent.
Yes. I like them but as I explain in my how-to book, this type of foam won't last as long as some other types of foam. It's a trade-off of a different type of pad performance for shorter life over say an open cell foam pad formula.
This won't work if they are the thin version. We discontinued the thick version in 5.5" but still carry the thick version in 6.5".
The pads might physically fit on the backing plate but the pads you're talking about are thin. Thick pads buff better on direct drive tools like the Flex 3401 while thin pads buff better on tools with free spinning drive mechanisms like the Porter Cable.
I've only used the thick style pads on my Rupes 21 so I need to test out some thin pads to see if this helps to maintain pad rotation when buffing out curved panels as compared to thicker pads like the Rupes and Hybrid pads which are both thick when compared to the 5.5" 7/8" thin Hydro-Tech pads.
This article I wrote with the idea of thin pads are better for PC style tools versus thicker pads has some good pictures showing the size thickness difference.
Thin is in... New Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
Just visited your website and “Wow". What beautiful work. I have the 3401 as well and you use the LC hybrids with it. I've been using their flat pads but looks like I'll give the hybrids a try.
Mike@DedicatedPerfection
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- Feb 26, 2011
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IMO, the hybrid pad lineup is the best setup for the 3401 bar none.
Redfireshaker06
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- Feb 24, 2012
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And that just goes to show that sometimes some paints like different abrasive technology and different foam pad designs.
I can't remember any paint "system", that the Wolfgang TSR and FG didn't finish out flawless on no matter the pad, tool, technique or even when working by hand.
It's consistent.
Yes. I like them but as I explain in my how-to book, this type of foam won't last as long as some other types of foam. It's a trade-off of a different type of pad performance for shorter life over say an open cell foam pad formula.
This won't work if they are the thin version. We discontinued the thick version in 5.5" but still carry the thick version in 6.5".
The pads might physically fit on the backing plate but the pads you're talking about are thin. Thick pads buff better on direct drive tools like the Flex 3401 while thin pads buff better on tools with free spinning drive mechanisms like the Porter Cable.
I've only used the thick style pads on my Rupes 21 so I need to test out some thin pads to see if this helps to maintain pad rotation when buffing out curved panels as compared to thicker pads like the Rupes and Hybrid pads which are both thick when compared to the 5.5" 7/8" thin Hydro-Tech pads.
This article I wrote with the idea of thin pads are better for PC style tools versus thicker pads has some good pictures showing the size thickness difference.
Thin is in... New Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads
Thanks for the info Mike. Yes, they are the thin pads. But I know with the power of the PC. I am going to upgrade. Most likely to the flex. So I can still use the hydro, I just have to use the 6.5" pads? Do you have a 5.5" you recommend for the Flex? Because I kind of like working with the smaller pads
MajinAl
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- Aug 12, 2013
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Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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Agree with both of the above. In fact, ever since these pads and the 4" backing plate were introduced I use these pads and the 4" backing plate for all my Detailing Boot Camp Classes for the part of the class where we go over how to use the Flex 3401.
We also use these pads for a lot of our Thursday Night Extreme Makeover and Show
Car Makeover classes.
Here's two articles showing the pads and the backing plates and there's also links to all these products in the articles...
New 5" pads for 4" Backing Plate on Flex 3401
New 4" and 6" Backing Plates for Flex 3401
Recommendation
Anyone getting the Flex 3401 take a look at the Hybrid Pads. You can start with the 6.5" pads as they will work with the factory installed backing plate.
Down the road, add the Lake Country Backing Plate Adapter System as this is the only way to get the 4" backing plate. You don't really need the 6" backing plate but the 4" is only available in this kit form.
Then you can use the 5" Hybrid Pads. The Velcro backing on the back of the 5" Hybrid pads is 4" in diameter specifically made for the 4" backing plate and this tool.
5" Hybrid Pads for the 4" backing plate on the Flex 3401!
This BLACK plymouth Valiant was COMPLETELY SWIRLED OUT and we restored a flawless, show car finish to it here at Autogeek using these pads and tools.
Live Broadcast Video - 1965 Plymouth Valiant - Extreme Makeover
***Live Broadcast Video - Extreme Makeover - 1965 Plymouth Valiant***
[video=youtube_share;VGnDSmMLwk8"]Live Broadcast Video -..." target="_blank">Live Broadcast Video -...[/video]
Here's some still pictures I took from the Valiant Extreme Makeover with Justin using them...
Also, my friend and forum member Tom Risk tried them out, he said,
"They make using the Flex 3401 easier than any other pad"
Forum Member Tom Risk aka ShineTimeDetail visits Autogeek.net
Here's Tom using a 4.5" Hybrid Pad on the Flex 3401
On Autogeek.net
Lake Country Hybrid Power Finish 5 Inch Foam Pads
You'll need the 4" backing plate to use these pads...
FLEX XC3401 Changeable Backing Plate System
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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Yes the 6.5" Hydro-Tech pads will work just fine on the Flex 3401 using the factory 5.5" backing plate.
[/quote]
We no longer carry the THICK 5.5" Hydro-Tech pads. These were too thick for all the PC style tools and with the introduction of the 5" Hybrid pads and the 4" backing plates the decision was made to go with these as inventory to carry.
There is alot of technique involved polishing Jet Black cars. Most of what I learned polishing-wise came from working on a wide variety of Jet Black cars and sticky Subaru paints.
There's a million different ways to polish paint, there is a correct way and an incorrect way. Almost every paint will require a different approach which may be as subtle as using less pressure, doing fewer passes, working with lower/higher speeds, and using different variation of pressure from the time you spread the polish to the cutting phase to the final pass.
I remember a while ago I was doing a Jet Black car with an orange pad and 3401 and I was working on one side of the car and my detailing partner (who has far more experience) was using the same pad and polish combo on the other side of the car. His side was coming out near perfect, mine was looking like crap. All it took for me to achieve a great result was to not let off on the pressure too much on the last pass. Basically letting off the pressure too much on that fourth pass was creating buffer marks and hazing the paint.
The reason I brought up this story is because sometimes it's the most minor change in technique that can make a world of a difference. This is why you do a test spot first and learn what technique must be used. Too much focus is given on pad/polish combo and not enough focus on technique which is easily just as important or in many cases the MOST important. Sounds like you found that out dealing with Jet Black.
There's a million different ways to polish paint, there is a correct way and an incorrect way. Almost every paint will require a different approach which may be as subtle as using less pressure, doing fewer passes, working with lower/higher speeds, and using different variation of pressure from the time you spread the polish to the cutting phase to the final pass.
I remember a while ago I was doing a Jet Black car with an orange pad and 3401 and I was working on one side of the car and my detailing partner (who has far more experience) was using the same pad and polish combo on the other side of the car. His side was coming out near perfect, mine was looking like crap. All it took for me to achieve a great result was to not let off on the pressure too much on the last pass. Basically letting off the pressure too much on that fourth pass was creating buffer marks and hazing the paint.
The reason I brought up this story is because sometimes it's the most minor change in technique that can make a world of a difference. This is why you do a test spot first and learn what technique must be used. Too much focus is given on pad/polish combo and not enough focus on technique which is easily just as important or in many cases the MOST important. Sounds like you found that out dealing with Jet Black.
parttimer
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- Aug 5, 2013
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Hey Mike, regarding this section of the post:
You suggest using the fat pads with the flex, I guess I am stumped as I just bought the VIP deal for the FLEX and it comes with the thin 5.5" pads. Shouldhn't that have bundled it with the 6.5" thicker pads instead?
You suggest using the fat pads with the flex, I guess I am stumped as I just bought the VIP deal for the FLEX and it comes with the thin 5.5" pads. Shouldhn't that have bundled it with the 6.5" thicker pads instead?