Foam Cannon: Over it

I like it just because its fun and as little as soap cost by the gallon its not too expensive. IMO its not about the presoak because the initial rinse will remove most of the crud on the car. This is more about getting as much lubrication on the car as possible to prevent swirls. The more lubricity between the mit, the better. I'm sure its way overkill on top of soft mites and 2BM but I like to think it helps. I could just be wasting my time with it but I enjoy it! Also gets cool pictures for posting to social media. :xyxthumbs:

I put a bit more than 2 oz if maxi suds ii in the bottle.
 
Mark my word:
Foam---otherwise known as "Suds"---has absolutely nothing to do with the actual cleaning of a vehicle.

Bob
Not so sure about that. Soap makes water wetter and cleans better than just water. It helps loosen grime easier.

Water doesn't foam.
The suds are the most concentrated mixture of soap in the bucket. You should always try to get as many suds as you can on your mitt when washing.
I think suds have a lot to do with the cleaning of a vehicle.

I have a foam gun that I use to presoak, and then saturate again after rinsing, to better lubricate the paint to better prevent marring.
I believe a foam cannon that produces a drier foam with more soap to water ratio will loosen grime better than a foam gun.
 
Honestly I've been tempted to buy one for a while. I mean it looks cool and fun....but does it do a better job than traditional method, and it takes more time?

Are the results noticeably apparent? IMO, I can't see justifying the cost.

Here in California we have a drought so water waste isn't exactly kosher. Plus I use ONR.
 
Not so sure about that.

Soap makes water wetter and cleans better than just water. It helps loosen grime easier.

Water doesn't foam.
The suds are the most concentrated mixture of soap in the bucket. You should always try to get as many suds as you can on your mitt when washing.
I think suds have a lot to do with the cleaning of a vehicle.

I have a foam gun that I use to presoak, and then saturate again after rinsing, to better lubricate the paint to better prevent marring.
I believe a foam cannon that produces a drier foam with more soap to water ratio will loosen grime better than a foam gun.
Conversely:
I'm not too sure about all that you have written above.

And:
Though it seems to be worth the going to:
Logger-heads for...
I see no furtherance of this subject matter
will be gained, by being quarrelsome.


Bob
 
Not so sure about that. Soap makes water wetter and cleans better than just water. It helps loosen grime easier.

Water doesn't foam.
The suds are the most concentrated mixture of soap in the bucket. You should always try to get as many suds as you can on your mitt when washing.
I think suds have a lot to do with the cleaning of a vehicle.

I have a foam gun that I use to presoak, and then saturate again after rinsing, to better lubricate the paint to better prevent marring.
I believe a foam cannon that produces a drier foam with more soap to water ratio will loosen grime better than a foam gun.

He's referring to what people call 'dwelling'. If a shampoo isn't an active cleaner, its not going to lift anything off the paint. Most shampoos are designed to be lubricants that hold particles in the bubbles WHILE you drag your wash media over the surface.

So, pre-soaking a maintenance shampoo and letting it dwell is pointless.
 
It's possible you'd want a more powerful one for the house and driveway... I've had both gas and electric models. The electrics are nicer for washing cars, but the gas - with their higher psi and gpm ratings work much better for fences/decks/pavement. Just my $.02

I plan to get a gas one. HD has a Homelite 2700 PSI with Honda engine for $279. Costco a Honda engine 3000PSI for $299. I just got a contractor's account at HomeDepot so I will probably get the HD one as I now get a nice discount off their shelf prices.

I've had my doubts about the utility of the foam cannon. I'm not sure the foaming really does anything additional to the pressure washing I do prior to that and then the 2BM wash I do after the foaming.

If you PW a car, the foam won't dislodge any more dirt. The foam would be more for once the mitt releases the dirt, to keep the dirt embedded in the foam, rather than wiped across the car.
 
This thread has certainly turned a corner from helping me diagnose my lackluster foam output (missing suction draught tube!) to discussing the overall merits of foam dwelling and whether time/energy/money can be saved by using a foam cannon/gun rather than simply high pressure water combined with a more traditional wash method. It's an interesting question, but I'm afraid that even if the foam cannon doesn't win the time/energy/money debate, I'll still use it (once I get it working) because it looks like FUN and I'm just a weekend warrior that likes to have fun! Im the MAN:dblthumb2:Im the MAN

I appreciate all the responses to the original question! If I get it working, then I have you all to thank! :props:
 
I'll still use it (once I get it working) because it looks like FUN and I'm just a weekend warrior that likes to have fun!

The whole idea is to make it fun so it is enjoyable to do. If you like to try different soaps, then there always a surplus of soaps to use.

Many have a pressure washer so the only real expense is the foam cannon itself.
 
Not so sure about that. Soap makes water wetter and cleans better than just water. It helps loosen grime easier.

Water doesn't foam.
The suds are the most concentrated mixture of soap in the bucket. You should always try to get as many suds as you can on your mitt when washing.
I think suds have a lot to do with the cleaning of a vehicle.

I have a foam gun that I use to presoak, and then saturate again after rinsing, to better lubricate the paint to better prevent marring.
I believe a foam cannon that produces a drier foam with more soap to water ratio will loosen grime better than a foam gun.

I don't know about making "water wetter", but I like think it does contribute to protecting the surface, AND pulling particles away from the paint *without* (and before) ever touching it with a mitt of any kind. (Merino or otherwise) ;)

Conversely:
I'm not too sure about all that you have written above.

And:
Though it seems to be worth the going to:
Logger-heads for...
I see no furtherance of this subject matter
will be gained, by being quarrelsome.


Bob

Bob, you crack me up dude.
It'd be fun just to sit back and watch you get into a deep philosophical discussion with my daughter, existentialism and what not. :laughing::dblthumb2:

This thread has certainly turned a corner from helping me diagnose my lackluster foam output (missing suction draught tube!) to discussing the overall merits of foam dwelling and whether time/energy/money can be saved by using a foam cannon/gun rather than simply high pressure water combined with a more traditional wash method. It's an interesting question, but I'm afraid that even if the foam cannon doesn't win the time/energy/money debate, I'll still use it (once I get it working) because it looks like FUN and I'm just a weekend warrior that likes to have fun! Im the MAN:dblthumb2:Im the MAN

I appreciate all the responses to the original question! If I get it working, then I have you all to thank! :props:

Well, at the end of the day it does make it a LOT more fun. :D

I have both the Gilmour foam gun and the AG foam cannon. The gun is fun, but the cannon cleans better. Yes it CLEANS better. I've yet to even think of connecting it to my gas PW (4000psi). It'd most likely need the bigger orifice to do that. But I have a little 1700 electric Craftsman that saves me a TON of water washing cars.

One thing you'll notice, (once you attach the draw tube) is the knob on the top will go from pulling almost all water, (turned all the way one direction) to making REALLY THICK AND STICKY foam (turned all the way the other direction).

I've used DG901 (902 in the gallon size) Megs HyperWash, and CG Honeydew all with more than excellent results. But you really will use more soap. Just mix at least 1:1 and if you use it all fine, if not, pour it off into a bottle and save it for later. No need to play around with all sorts of dilutions as you can do that with the knob on the top. :)

Here's a quote from CG about Honeydew:
"...our chemists developed premium super polymers designed to capture dirt, dust, and debris by surrounding the particles allowing the surfaced to be rinsed clean."

Heavy pollen season here in Atlanta, and so far I've yet to take a mitt to my G35. I'll foam it, let it dwell for a few minutes, then rinse and all the pollen is gone, and it'll rinse perfectly clear. Now that car doesn't really get dirty, so it's certainly not the bellwether of all things "foam cannon", but in my situation the cannon SAVES me time. ;)

Of course ymmv. :dunno:
 
Soap reduces the surface tension of the water molecules, allowing them to get into smaller areas. Soft water is wetter water. Detergent is a wetting agent. Technically, most "soaps" are actually detergents, and not actually soaps.

What Are Wetting Agents? (with picture)

We always just explained this as, the soap we use is a surfacrant, surfactants are amphiphilic and left it at that for most people to understand though even that maybe a little wordy.

Not only does the soap lower surface tension but temperature also impacts surface tension (warm = less surface tension than cold), though if the soap lowers it enough temp shouldn't matter near as much (but again variables). Remember the impact on surface tension surfacrants have depends on dilution and intermolecular forces can only be weakened to a certain degree.

The entire foaming action requires low surface tension for the air to mix in and cause foam.

To make it dead simple for people who hate chemistry: soap molecules break apart long chains of water molecules allowing it to get in pores rather than being a big chain that's like a bridge over the pore (yup I'm simplifying).

This should mean that the foam will get into pores better than just a pressure wash and help those really dirty cars be a little easier to clean on the 2 bucket wash. The end result after the 2BW is probably the same or very similar but the 2BW step maybe a little easier than it would have been without the foam. Regardless, getting pics of a car you have foamed and putting them on your businesses facebook does seem to get peoples attention and foam is fun!
 
I have a Devilbliss commercial unit producing 4.0gpm and 4000psi. I use a CarPro foam cannon which I assume is manufactured by MTM. I must turn the pressure (unloader) way down and turn the knob on the cannon all the way down to get excellent foam action. I'm O.K. with that, I just want to post my experience here so it may help someone in the future. This thread sure turned into an excellent read!

I typically use 3oz. of Duragloss #902 in the cannon. I also have very hard well water.
 
Thinking about this whole "foam it and not touch it" theory then nothing but rinsing, I did a little experiment today. Albeit in the kitchen.

So for lunch I heated up a bowl of fresh home made soup that CarMomma made from Dr. Travis Stork's new book (it's called Anytime Soup), that is AWESOME I might add. But before that I pulled out 1.5 lean skinless chicken breasts that she cooked last night. Just braised in a skillet with some butter, no really heavy grease, but obviously enough to make a plate dirty.

Placed the 1.5 chicken breasts on a clean plate, then sliced them across the grain, diagonally. Afterwards the plate obviously needed washing.

So we have one of those foaming hand soap dispensers. Thing is, they don't need hardly ANY soap/detergent in them. It's 8.75 ounces and I'll put about .25 ounce of generic liquid detergent in it, then fill with water. That's easily a 32:1 (considering foaming on the head).

I take the foam and pump a few squirts on the plate. Nowhere NEAR as thick, or as sticky as what we get with a foam cannon. Not even as thick as a foam gun. None the less, foam on a plate. Without any pressure, just holding the plate and moved the foam around it three times, then went vertical with it. Foam slid right off leaving hardly anything there.

Followed that with nothing but cold water, no sprayer, just the aerated water from the faucet. Guess what? The plate was squeaky clean! :)

Hmmmm.... that was weird. Didn't have to scrub, or even RUB the plate.

Meanwhile the now, "chicken vegetable soup" (you really need to find this recipe it's GREAT) is cooking in the microwave. We have these covers, thick plastic things that you can put over dishes, bowls etc. for microwaving to contain splatter. They are opaque, with ridges on one side (the side that faces the food). So while that cooks, it gets tons of hot condensation on it from the soup, drips all over the place, and is honestly really in need of a good wash after several minutes in the microwave. Cooking on high, 50%, high again, you name it.

Then tried the foaming hand soap dispenser again. No scrubbing, NOTHING.
SAME RESULTS! Squeaky clean and never even touched it with as much as a wet paper towel. :D

Now of course liquid dishwashing detergent is better, (and built for) cutting grease. But car shampoo is also designed for it's specific purpose. It would go to reason that it can indeed clean the surface without intense, or in some cases, ANY agitation. :buffing:

Jus' throwin' dat' out there.........
 
uhynu3a6.jpg


Pirated the drinking straw from a camelback water bottle and stuck it on the "suction draught tube" barb, screwed the bottle on to the foam cannon... and voila! Thick foam - victory! Thanks to everyone for helping me diagnose the problem - Happy Easter!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
uhynu3a6.jpg


Pirated the drinking straw from a camelback water bottle and stuck it on the "suction draught tube" barb, screwed the bottle on to the foam cannon... and voila! Thick foam - victory! Thanks to everyone for helping me diagnose the problem - Happy Easter!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What does the suction draught tube look like? I have a gilmor (gilmore?) foam gun and it doesn't seem to produce any foam unless I place my finger covering the hole at the top that seems to suck in air. Even then, sometimes the foam isn't that great. Could a suction tube thing be my issue? I looked in my box when I bought it 1-2 yrs ago and didn't see any missing parts I didn't assemble... so I've been living with it this way, and have resorted to not always using the gun because of this. Any tips?
 
What does the suction draught tube look like? I have a gilmor (gilmore?) foam gun and it doesn't seem to produce any foam unless I place my finger covering the hole at the top that seems to suck in air. Even then, sometimes the foam isn't that great. Could a suction tube thing be my issue? I looked in my box when I bought it 1-2 yrs ago and didn't see any missing parts I didn't assemble... so I've been living with it this way, and have resorted to not always using the gun because of this. Any tips?

Quick pic: Foam Cannon on left---Gun on right

Both have tubes

2qn040m.png
 
Quick pic: Foam Cannon on left---Gun on right

Both have tubes

2qn040m.png

Oh, okay. That's definitely in, but if the gun with the mesh attachment on the end is like mine, there is a metal piece (where the adjustment bar slides in/out of) in the center of the top with a hole on it. When I use the gun I have to put my finger covering that top hole, making spraying a two hand process. Maybe mine is defective.
 
What does the suction draught tube look like? I have a gilmor (gilmore?) foam gun and it doesn't seem to produce any foam unless I place my finger covering the hole at the top that seems to suck in air. Even then, sometimes the foam isn't that great. Could a suction tube thing be my issue? I looked in my box when I bought it 1-2 yrs ago and didn't see any missing parts I didn't assemble... so I've been living with it this way, and have resorted to not always using the gun because of this. Any tips?

the gilmour foam gun has two screws, one that goes on top of the unit, and on the end of the brass pin. you do not want to lose either of these other it will effect the performance. it's a good idea to make sure they are tightened every time you use it...
 
the gilmour foam gun has two screws, one that goes on top of the unit, and on the end of the brass pin. you do not want to lose either of these other it will effect the performance. it's a good idea to make sure they are tightened every time you use it...

Maybe I lost the screw from the top, then. I have a screw on the end of the brass pin, and I think a screw on the other end opposite the pin. I'll try and get pics up sometime. Should the screw opposite the pin be on top in the center instead?
 
Maybe I lost the screw from the top, then. I have a screw on the end of the brass pin, and I think a screw on the other end opposite the pin. I'll try and get pics up sometime. Should the screw opposite the pin be on top in the center instead?

it looks like you may have lost it then, it comes with both screws as pictured (left) below...
xtreme02.jpg
 
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