Fresh paint how to's/dont's ?????'s

Znig22

Znig22

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I have another Black Range Rover full paint correction coming up this coming Tuesday. I went to correct this vehicle 3 weeks ago site unseen and when I arrived it was blasted with rock chips. It is a 2012 with 30k and I've never seen one in such bad shape. I spoke with the customer and he decided to take it to the body shop. He will pick it up tomorrow (Friday) he is bound and determined to have me come correct the vehicle from the front doors back and the roof this Tuesday. (The body shop resprayed the entire front clip. Hood, front fenders, front bumper) my question is can I opti coat the fresh paint if the customer chooses to coat it and if not can I apply my WGTS to it after I complete my correction.

I do understand I may have some work to do to the front clip if the body shop fails to deliver 100% perfection, but I want to know where I stand on protecting it.
 
I'm not a painting expert, but I do know the type of paint and if it was baked or not makes a difference. Paint requires cure time and I've heard some need to "breath". There may also be a warranty issue with the body shop that did the paint. I would check with them and see what they say.
 
Are you going to wet sand and buff it?
PPG's wait time before applying wax is 90 days. (I think)

Meguiar's No. 7 and I believe M26 is also body shop safe.

As far as opti coat. That answer I don't know. It might be longer :dunno:

Call Optimum Doc G and the paint manufacturer to see what they say or recommend.

While they recommend you don't apply a wax until 90 days. I have done it a lot of times and not once did I see anything go wrong. But i'd be more cautious towards a coating since it is permanent.

Just trying to help :xyxthumbs:
 
As one of my business partners own a body shop and I have worked in there (special occasions and vehicle wraps). I think I can chime in.

Until you see the paint. You won't know what the condition is. If there detailer didn't fix anything. There will be some dust. Orange peel 50/50. High quality paints and a good paint will go as flat as factory.

As far as baking. Pretty much everyone bakes the paint in the booth. Once baked you can do anything to it. It will still be a little softer, but you can wax/seal/coat and even wrap/clear bra new paint no problem.

So just keep in mind it's softer, but anything can be done.
 
bsmith0404 said:
Don't assume this. One of the best painters in my area that turns out some great show cars doesn't bake. I would make sure.
Click to expand...

Of course. And there are very important reasons as not to bake, but most production shops do bake. At least here in my area. Hybrids aren't baked
 
I'm on iPad so I can't copy and paste easily but I have 3-4 articles under

Car Paint


In my article list that are very indepth and cover every topic of interest related to car paint.

Here's the nut shell answer,

There's not a single paint manufacturer that states or recommends to seal paint before 30 days air cure.

Not one.


There are always people posting under a nickname on a forum their 2cents and telling others it's okay to seal paint before 30 days air cure.


But these people are not paint manufacturers.

That said... I've never seen a new/fresh paint job fail because it was sealed to soon.

My question is always,

What's the hurry?


I'll post more tomorrow, time to crash, I hit the gym at 5:00am

:)
 
Znig22 said:
I have another Black Range Rover full paint correction coming up this coming Tuesday. I went to correct this vehicle 3 weeks ago site unseen and when I arrived it was blasted with rock chips. It is a 2012 with 30k and I've never seen one in such bad shape.

I spoke with the customer and he decided to take it to the body shop. He will pick it up tomorrow (Friday) he is bound and determined to have me come correct the vehicle from the front doors back and the roof this Tuesday.

(The body shop resprayed the entire front clip. Hood, front fenders, front bumper)


my question is

can I opti coat the fresh paint if the customer chooses to coat it and if not can I apply my WGTS to it after I complete my correction.
Click to expand...


Opti-Coat II is like adding a layer of clear paint to a car. This means your are for the most part, sealing the paint to a very high degree and if there are any solvents or other substances that have NOT finished outgassing you will have effectively trapped them "in" the paint.

In a perfect world, your customer would be open to a little education and allow some time to go by, like a week or two, just for safe measures, and then let you seal it.



Znig22 said:
I do understand I may have some work to do to the front clip if the body shop fails to deliver 100% perfection, but I want to know where I stand on protecting it.
Click to expand...


The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover as well as the Uber Compound and Finishing Glaze are all "Body Shop Safe" that means they can be used,

A: In a fresh paint environment, (body shop), without contaminating it.

B: Applied and worked over brand spanking new fresh paint without sealing it.

However, the TSR won't act like a wax or sealant to either protect it or make it look the way a wax would make it look.

The Finishing Glaze would, either hand applied or machine applied with something like a Porter Cable and a soft foam buffing pad and the a VERY gentle wipe off.

All three of these products are water soluble so as soon as your customer starts to drive the car in inclement weather or washes it the appearance quality will start to diminish as compared to how it would look and how long the "look" would last if it were coated with something that is not water soluble.

This is the dilemma anyone faces after getting new paint.

What to do for the first 3-4 weeks.


If it were my car I'd wait at least a few weeks and then seal it. If this guy can't wait the seal it for him but maybe consider having him sign a release of some sort so if the paint does bubble up, (your fault or not), you don't get the blame.


I doubt the paint would bubble up, like I said in my first post to this thread I've NEVER seen a new paint job fail because it was sealed too soon.

Don't know if any of the above helps...

Seal everything but the hood and educate him as to why. Heck bring this thread up on your computer, e-mail him the link or copy and paste my reply into MS Word and print it out and give it to him.

You've done the right thing by doing some research. You are already in the act of helping him. by looking out for his best interests.

:dunno:
 
Thanks Mike, I appreciate you taking time to educate me. I believe I will follow your advice and just refuse to seal/coat the front clip for at least 2 weeks. Happy Holidays.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I doubt the paint would bubble up, like I said in my first post to this thread I've NEVER seen a new paint job fail because it was sealed too soon.
Click to expand...

I have seen paint get damaged and bubble from being washed (wet) too soon. BMW has had a lot of problems with water droplets being sealed behind the transit vinyls and bubbling the paint.

Like Mike said. When in doubt, wait. Letting the paint be unsealed for an extra 4-5 weeks won't make or break anything.
 
x2 on what others said do not coat with a sealant/wax/etc. so soon as the solvents are still escaping even after being baked. Educate your customer, have them verify with the body shop, so that they do not run off to someone else and will return to you when a safe amount of time (I've dealt with Sikkens and they recommend about after 90 days).
 
I go with "what's his hurry". :dunno: Thing is, you don't KNOW what the body shop just did to the paint. What did they do to their work, and what did they do (if anything at all) to the rest of the vehicle?

The term you keep reading, "Body Shop Safe" is more about what products you can use, (IE water soluble) that in a 'body shop environment' will not cause harm to other painting being done in the area. Take fisheyes for instance from silicone particulates floating in the air within half a mile of a paint booth!

They may have glazed the entire front end and it looks slick as glass. Doesn't mean that when the glaze washes off that it isn't covered in buffer trails and holograms! Try to coat that and you'll end up with a total coating failure.

I wouldn't TOUCH IT until it was at least 30 days old at which time you can buff it and remove whatever they put on it to cover up their mess. (I'm posting a thread today showing just how bad a WELL KNOWN and GOOD body shop can screw up a BRAND NEW paint job.) ;)
 
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