Hello. I have never posted on a forum before so here goes. I just got back my 2010 camaro after a seven month wait for a complete color change. Way longer then I thought it would take but it's home now. Now the problem. The paint looks good as far as colors I picked out,the break in the two tone,etc. but the finish work is terrible. I guess my question is do I have to wait to correct this until after it cures which is about 90 days or do I try and correct it while its still soft? Thanks in advance for the advice and I look forward to all the good advice I know I will get from the awesome people on this forum. Happy holidays to all.
Fresh paint
- Thread starter Wicked ss
- Start date
miniSguy
New member
- Jun 26, 2013
- 183
- 0
Good question.
asalesagent912
Member
- Jun 19, 2012
- 586
- 0
one piece of advice i can give you is defenitly dont wax it.
the paint needs to cure. you can probably can use a polish but in my opinion be very careful
especially on plastic bumpers. my opinion is because the paint is just never the same as factory paint and could flake off on bumpers if using a machine buffer.
the paint needs to cure. you can probably can use a polish but in my opinion be very careful
especially on plastic bumpers. my opinion is because the paint is just never the same as factory paint and could flake off on bumpers if using a machine buffer.
Just02896
New member
- Nov 15, 2013
- 1,734
- 0
If they left buffer trailers and swirls without doing any actual damage to the paint from a virgin cure, then you "should be OK" to do a correction.
Bump for more seasoned vets to advise!
And I'm not seeing any pictures of the car! Lol!
tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 12
What exactly about the finish work are you not pleased with? Is it dirt in the paint, excessive orange peel, really bad buffer marks, no gloss, all of the above?
Bob raises a great question. Have you expressed to the painter that you're displeased with their finish work? Did you pay them to do the finish work? Did they give you the option for them to go above and beyond with the finish work in the form of an elevated cost package or did they simply not discuss options with you?
I know it would be a real pain to wait even longer for them to address this issue but if they're capable and responsible to do so you should go in and discuss it with them.
I know this is the first time posting on a forum (and welcome to AGO by the way) but do you know how to post photos to a forum yet? Can you learn to do so? It would be irresponsible of any forum member to advise in a matter like this without knowing more and perhaps seeing a few photos of the displeasing paint condition.
My last thought would be where are you located? A lot of the qualified detailers here at AGO eat, sleep and breathe this kind of stuff. Maybe someone local to you might be willing to consult with you on what your options are upon seeing the car in person. There are a lot of helpful members here like that.
Happy New year!! I hope you get this sorted out to you benefit.
Bob raises a great question. Have you expressed to the painter that you're displeased with their finish work? Did you pay them to do the finish work? Did they give you the option for them to go above and beyond with the finish work in the form of an elevated cost package or did they simply not discuss options with you?
I know it would be a real pain to wait even longer for them to address this issue but if they're capable and responsible to do so you should go in and discuss it with them.
I know this is the first time posting on a forum (and welcome to AGO by the way) but do you know how to post photos to a forum yet? Can you learn to do so? It would be irresponsible of any forum member to advise in a matter like this without knowing more and perhaps seeing a few photos of the displeasing paint condition.
My last thought would be where are you located? A lot of the qualified detailers here at AGO eat, sleep and breathe this kind of stuff. Maybe someone local to you might be willing to consult with you on what your options are upon seeing the car in person. There are a lot of helpful members here like that.
Happy New year!! I hope you get this sorted out to you benefit.
- Thread starter
- #9
Wow I didn't expect that many posts so quick. It's not that I'm not happy with the paint. The painter did a great job. It's all the finish work. They finished it in 2000 paper. From there it was a cut and buff. Just not sure I want to bring it back there . It's winter in NW Indiana.lots of salt on the roads. I have the tools to do it. I don't mind doing it. Just not sure if I should do it yet. What products would you more expert detailers recommend for this job as far as pads,polishes,etc. I have a rupes polisher as well as a dewalt and a flex. Can't wait for the new rupes mini to come out. Never hurts to have a good reason to shop at autogeek ,right. Thanks again for all the advice.will post pic as soon as I figure it out. Not as savy with the tech as most of you are yet.
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
You do realize that once you "touch" the paint:
the Shop, the painter, and the "cut&buff-er"...
Are all now completely off the hook!!
Any displeasure with the "finish work" is yours...and only yours...from then on.
Bob
HateSwirls
New member
- Jun 24, 2013
- 3,632
- 0
I don't see a problem by polishing the paint but I'd ask the guy who painted it first.
If you think about it they put a rotary on fresh paint so why can't we?
A DA would work fine with the right combo.
As with any car do a test area first, 2x2.
If it looks good then go with the product and pad that gives you the best results.
As one said do not wax or seal it, not for the first 90 days.
Years ago I had my entire Grand Prix repainted,as soon as I got it back I buffed it out due to buffer trails from the guy who painted my car.
If you think about it they put a rotary on fresh paint so why can't we?
A DA would work fine with the right combo.
As with any car do a test area first, 2x2.
If it looks good then go with the product and pad that gives you the best results.
As one said do not wax or seal it, not for the first 90 days.
Years ago I had my entire Grand Prix repainted,as soon as I got it back I buffed it out due to buffer trails from the guy who painted my car.
Kevin Cullen
New member
- May 25, 2012
- 592
- 0
As Hate Swirls says, talk to the painter and see if he did a thick clear coat and where he did not do clear coat. From there you can use a coating thickness gauge (if you have one) and get an idea of what you are working with. From there you can do as you please. I know you will void warranty if you touch it without talking to the shop that painted it BUT, as most of us here know, you probably won't be happy with the results if you take it back and get them to do the finishing work again.
Andr3wilson
New member
- May 16, 2012
- 1,615
- 0
Was it baked? You can basically tell by how soft it is. Unbaked paint will be a mess at this point. Most shops bake their paint now (especially if it is a bigger operation).
You can polish it no problem. I would get some FG400 on an orange pad, then SF4500 on a white, then again on a black.
Be very gentle when buffing off with towel. You may need to buy a few new ones.
If it has been baked you can wax/coat/seal no problem. I have waxes and wrapped fresh paint without any negative effects or remote chance of failure.
You can polish it no problem. I would get some FG400 on an orange pad, then SF4500 on a white, then again on a black.
Be very gentle when buffing off with towel. You may need to buy a few new ones.
If it has been baked you can wax/coat/seal no problem. I have waxes and wrapped fresh paint without any negative effects or remote chance of failure.
- Thread starter
- #14
Car was not baked. It was done in a cross draft spray booth. I think I might be better off waiting at least the 90 days and just let it cure. Thanks for all of you're input. Good to know that I'm not the only person out there who is a freak when it comes to their car looking perfect. Thanks to autogeek for giving us all a springboard to bounce ideas and advice to one another.
Andr3wilson
New member
- May 16, 2012
- 1,615
- 0
Definitely wait. From the handful of cars I have polished with fresh unbaked paint. It take so much time technique and patience to master it (I still haven't). Make a spring project out of it!
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
- 3,937
- 0
WORD!!!!
Dude, 7 months, cross draft, not baked, and still unhappy. Hmmmmm?
Photos would help, and the sweet part is you can upload to AG (as a forum member) an unlimited amount of photos.
Just resize them all to no larger than 800 x 600 (to make it a lot easier) and build yourself some of your own libraries. (Can even make the private.)Still unsure what you don't like though. Is it orange peeled? Buffer burns? Buffer trails/holograms? Dry spray? Trash, runs, what????? (Thinking it's not the last ones as you say the paint itself is good.)
Look at the Mazdaspeed thread I did a couple of weeks ago. That was a $12,000+ repair that took 7 weeks. When he got it back the first time it was covered in orange peel and even some dry spray. I went with him that time, back to the shop, and had them color sand the entire right side. Of course they filled it with glaze and once he drove it for about a month (was waiting on it to cure anyhow so we could coat it) the glaze melted/went away from all the rain we had and what you see in the thread was what it looked like.
It was BAAAAAAAD! Hood and bumper cover were swirled something crazy. They had been replaced with used crash parts (same color) but never properly buffed. The right side though was horrible as far as finish. Once it was done I emailed the photos to the body shop manager. Actually I know the guy, and it's a BIG chain of dealerships. I'll end up getting work out of it, FROM HIM because they are just not set up to do that type of correction work. Whereas I'll spend days on it getting it right, they will spend a couple of hours and that's all it'll ever get.
You need to have a serious, perhaps bullet pointed, line itemed talk with the shop manager, perhaps the painter and the cut/buff crew. Likely they have nothing but a rotary and some 3M glaze, and chances are... they have never heard of names like Griot's, Rupes, and Flex. Even though two of those have been making tools for professionals for decades! Probably longer than the painter and his helper combined have been alive.
Surely they can do better work, but do they WANT to do better work? :dunno: Maybe they'll give you a warm place to work, you can take your own tools, and show them HOW to do it like you want it.
rops:Until then, Welcome to AGO, and I guess we'll wait on those photos.
hernandez.art13
New member
- Apr 8, 2013
- 6,958
- 0
I would like to see pictures of what you are not happy with. Also I would check with the shop to see what they say or recommend.
Hopefully the paint has a nice full amount of CC. Might want to check if you want to be sure how much CC it has. A PTG can help you with that.
If all this is new to you, as far as sanding down dirts, removing orange peel etc... You can contact a professional detailer to get his input and advice.
You can get a lot of help here, but I like to get an opinion in person as well. Most of the time I just ask my family.
Either way good luck, :xyxthumbs:
Also
There are also waxes that state they are body shop safe.
Hopefully the paint has a nice full amount of CC. Might want to check if you want to be sure how much CC it has. A PTG can help you with that.
If all this is new to you, as far as sanding down dirts, removing orange peel etc... You can contact a professional detailer to get his input and advice.
You can get a lot of help here, but I like to get an opinion in person as well. Most of the time I just ask my family.
Either way good luck, :xyxthumbs:
Also
There are also waxes that state they are body shop safe.