From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

[Big DaveBig Dave is verified member.]

Not anything to do with stay "tuned" but a cool mod for my EN nonetheless. First off BIG THANKS to BIG DAVE for finding the link for me, 2 of them infact and this got here to me from the bottom of the planet FAST

So what you guys are looking at is the rear foglight for a Hyundai i30N sedan, basically my car "down under"

I've included a close up of the connection as we couldn't come up with the part # for it, so we'll go to "plan B" which is to wire it directly as the gray plug unscrews showing 2 wires, a green and black one

Any advice on making a light work without the proper pigtail harness? I'm thinking I'll use a simple toggle or rocker switch to turn it ON & OFF

Once again, BIG THANKS to BIG DAVE and stay "tuned" for this one, it's a really big deal for me as I'm all about the little details

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

No worries Roger, I was just surprised at the parts guys who had no idea how to get a part number without a valid Australian VIN. Most parts guys I've dealt with have been GM Holden, and they were all car guys as well, so they understood wanting to customise and fit non standard parts to your vehicle, they usually already knew what you were planning, and what parts you needed. I guess it's just something more common amongst GM and Ford enthusiasts. Hey, maybe you're at the leading edge of a Hyundai-Kia wave of customisers.

My bullbar came with front fog/driving lights, and when they were fitting it, I asked if they could wire it in to the factory switch for the rear fog lights, they said no, definitely not, hooking in to factory wiring can cause unintended consequences. Anyway, having extra switches is cool, it's always good to have extra switches, and the FJ had 2 or 3 blanks for extra switches.

P.S. one of the local air force guys just got a new I30N sedan, I was telling him about yours, he's not going to do any mods straight away, it's currently fast enough, and doesn't want to risk the warranty for a couple of years at least, and he's aware of the knock sensor issue, he plans to hand wash carefully in his driveway, which should be fine, we don't have the winters that you guys get.

Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk

 

[Desertnate]

Warmer weather has brought more boost, hits 22 psi now.

There is something about the air density at 60~70F that puts engines in their "happy place". My turbo'd cars seemed to run their best at about 65F and my N/A car now is really happy at 70F.

I'm also experiencing "surging" at 1/3-1/2 pedal throttle but when fully down it goes like stink! Apparently this is "a thing" with modern, boosted cars. My buddy did a Google search on this about partial throttle and it's across the board

What type of "surging" are you getting? None of my turbo'd cars have ever exhibited anything like that, and I've not experienced it in other cars I've driven. Granted, they've mostly all been German.

Not anything to do with stay "tuned" but a cool mod for my EN nonetheless. First off BIG THANKS to BIG DAVE for finding the link for me, 2 of them infact and this got here to me from the bottom of the planet FAST

So what you guys are looking at is the rear foglight for a Hyundai i30N sedan, basically my car "down under"

Are you going to run it as a rear fog light or as an extra break light?

If running it as a rear fog, are you able to get an AUS market headlight switch and swap them out? In the BMW world this is a pretty common thing. People will add the bulbs to the rear fog assemblies, buy the European headlight switch, and then with an ECU tool turn on the setting to activate the Euro headlight switch.

If running it as an extra break light you might have other options. In the BRZ/86 world, turning the rear fog into an extra brake light is pretty common and there are lots of kits with different lighting styles. Most come with or have the option to buy a wire harness that taps into wiring behind one of the rear brakes lights and then plugs right up into the new light. Do those harnesses exist in the Hyundai modding world?

 

[Klasse Act]

There is something about the air density at 60~70F that puts engines in their "happy place". My turbo'd cars seemed to run their best at about 65F and my N/A car now is really happy at 70F.



What type of "surging" are you getting? None of my turbo'd cars have ever exhibited anything like that, and I've not experienced it in other cars I've driven. Granted, they've mostly all been German.



Are you going to run it as a rear fog light or as an extra break light?

If running it as a rear fog, are you able to get an AUS market headlight switch and swap them out? In the BMW world this is a pretty common thing. People will add the bulbs to the rear fog assemblies, buy the European headlight switch, and then with an ECU tool turn on the setting to activate the Euro headlight switch.

If running it as an extra break light you might have other options. In the BRZ/86 world, turning the rear fog into an extra brake light is pretty common and there are lots of kits with different lighting styles. Most come with or have the option to buy a wire harness that taps into wiring behind one of the rear brakes lights and then plugs right up into the new light. Do those harnesses exist in the Hyundai modding world?

I am going to run it as a foglight for sure, didn't get the O.E. switch because I couldn't find it, just wanna get it hard wired to a seoerate switch.

As far as the "surging" goes, well, when I'm at speed and give partial throttle the tach will go up and down a bit and it stumbles until I take my foot off of the gas and/or give it the beans, it then goes like stink!

I'm going to find this article my buddy found and I'd like your educated thoughts on it

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

Flash/Chip Tunes and Compressor Surge

Here it is

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Desertnate]

Interesting. I've never heard of that before. 2500~3500RPM would be right in the middle of steady state highway speeds in fifth or sixth gear. Anyone not hooning would probably land right in that zone quite often.

After reading through the article and the recommendations at the very bottom, it seems to come down to the tune itself. It would seem a tune which gives up a little bit of immediate torque at the bottom end in favor of a more linear power delivery will avoid the issue. APR even offered a tune that delivered torque and HP at a bit higher RPM levels to save clutches. Most of their power charts shows a progression that matches the OEM curve for both torque and power.

I'm only familiar with a couple of the major brands like Unitronic and APR for VW's and a couple of the other tuners like Dinan for BMW and never heard about this condition. However, it's a big world out there with lots of tuner options.

 

[Klasse Act]

I think I'm going to have to pay someone to do some data logging for me and send the results to my tuner AND send my ECU back to Canada again

The one thing that's different from this Stage 1 and my previous one is the addition of my Stillen mid-pipe because previously I made like 318 hp on the pull and now I'm at 336 hp, again, based on the onboard dyno, it may not be as accurate but it has picked up gains and per some tuners a certain hp rating calls for thr upgraded HPFP. That said, when giving it the beans from a roll or launch control the EN pulls VERY hard, even in NORMAL mode.

The other option, lay down next to my bowl and put the stock ECU back in and accept 295/269 compared to 336/320

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

So I had some time to kill after work before picking up my daughter and headed out on the highway to try N mode at speed to see if it would do that again...it sure did, actually threw a code too

It was generic code 0302 (misfire cylinder #2) I pulled over to scan it, then erased it and started up the car, no light and no misfire! A little further down the road I put it in N mode, stomped it from a roll and no problems.

Thoughts

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

Re: From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

Tuner says it's a plug or coil

Thing is the coils are the originals and plugs have about 4K on them. He says the bad knock sensor probably caused the issue

Thing is, the car ran STRONG immediately after getting the tune re-installed, I don't get it and I feel like throwing in the towel here

It drove fine to work this morning, no issues, no cel.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

I would recommend new plugs with changes you made. Maybe try the MSD’s again?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

I would recommend new plugs with changes you made. Maybe try the MSD’s again?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did install new colder spark plugs with the modifications that I did back in the fall

If we figure out that I have a bad coil, I will take you up on that suggestion as well.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Desertnate]

Re: From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

Tuner says it's a plug or coil
Thing is, the car ran STRONG immediately after getting the tune re-installed, I don't get it and I feel like throwing in the towel here

Are there any Hyundai enthusiasts in the Chicago area or a shop that might be able to help you with doing some data logging?

When I've followed people in the past who've started chasing issues like this, being able to pull data logs from the sensors in the engine and then put those logs where the the "nerds" with the really deep knowledge of engine management could see them helped nail down the real problem(s).

Don't know if you have the patience to go that deep.

 

[Klasse Act]

Re: From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

Are there any Hyundai enthusiasts in the Chicago area or a shop that might be able to help you with doing some data logging?

When I've followed people in the past who've started chasing issues like this being able to pull data logs from the sensors in the engine and then put those logs where the the "nerds" with the really deep knowledge of engine management could see the values being passed when the engine wasn't running right and nail down the real problem.

Don't know if you have the patience to go that deep.

Your right, I don't have the patience but more importantly the intellect for it either

The data logging has been suggested to me but I guess you gotta buy some program for the laptop and start driving, get the data and send it to the tuner for "fine tuning", this is, as I'm sure you know, is an "off the shelf" tune

He said previously it's "high timing, low boost and I have no idea what degree timing I have my boost is 20-22 psi depending upon the weather

Over the weekend I'm going to my buddy Hectours and bringing my stock ECU, 13K original plugs and just incase, the infamous MSD coils. He wants to start with swapping the ECU and taking it out right away and see what happens, if it doesn't do it we know it's the tuned ECU, we'll also swap the stock plugs back in as well...then call it day, back to 295 hp and 269 lbs ft, what a step down

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Desertnate]

Re: From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

Your right, I don't have the patience but more importantly the intellect for it either

From the logs I've seen it's certainly not for the faint of heart. Total gibberish to me, but I've seen conversations on forums where a couple really smart people pick out bad values in minutes and talk about what might be causing what they see. Pretty interesting to follow.

The data logging has been suggested to me but I guess you gotta buy some program for the laptop and start driving, get the data and send it to the tuner for "fine tuning", this is, as I'm sure you know, is an "off the shelf" tune

That's why I wondered if there was someone in your area who might already have the equipment and software and would do it as a favor or for a small fee. I know for other cars with a history or tuning (JDM or German) it isn't hard to find someone on a forum able to decrypt the logs. Not sure if the Hyundai modding community has been around long enough to have developed that level of depth yet.

I do full appreciate not having the patience to go through all of that, and honestly I wouldn't either. In the same position, I'd take the car back to a "known good" state of hardware/software and leave it.

...then call it day, back to 295 hp and 269 lbs ft, what a step down

That's still not too shabby for a car that size, but I do get what you're saying.

 

[Klasse Act]

NDriverKG, a respected guy in our community, posted a video today and I threw out my issue and this well said comment came out

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Desertnate]

What does he mean by a "dyno tune"? Does he mean an ECU software tune?

Interesting there seems to be issues with a couple brands and their tunes. I can't help but wonder if this is all due to the newness of the Hyundai entering this market. Everyone tuning Subaru's, Honda's, Toyota's, BMW's and VAG engines and transmissions have had decades of experience at this point.

 

[Klasse Act]

What does he mean by a "dyno tune"? Does he mean an ECU software tune?

Interesting there seems to be issues with a couple brands and their tunes. I can't help but wonder if this is all due to the newness of the Hyundai entering this market. Everyone tuning Subaru's, Honda's, Toyota's, BMW's and VAG engines and transmissions have had decades of experience at this point.

Yeah...tuning it on the dyno so it's tailored to your actual car and its mods

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[BudgetPlan1]

From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

What does he mean by a "dyno tune"? Does he mean an ECU software tune?

Yeah...tuning it on the dyno so it's tailored to your actual car and its mods

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

It can be a bit nerve wracking to watch as they run the car up, make a few adjustments to ECU tables, run it up again, tweak some more…lather, rinse, repeat.

Obviously disclaimers/releases are signed before beginning.

It’s quite a relief when it’s over.

Optimal experience is dyno tune for WOT optimization coupled with a follow up ‘street’ tune for low/midrange.

Some dynos like a Mustang dyno can load the rollers up to simulate street driving so sort of best of both worlds without traveling to a deserted road in ‘Mexico’ for questionable behavior during a street tune session. Apparently.

If I recall correctly, dyno tune was around $500 back when we did it; took about 4hrs in all, 20 pulls or so.

Dyno Trimmed - YouTube


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Klasse Act]

$500 is less than I paid for my off tye shelf tune

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

My buddy Hectour and I will be working on the EN this weekend. He wants to work backwards, starting with swapping the tuned ECU for the stock one, taking it out for a run and see what's up. He thinks this tune is THEE issue here. If that works out, he'll swap the stock plugs back in and we'll call it a day...and I'm out $1300

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[BudgetPlan1]

$500 is less than I paid for my off tye shelf tune

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Well, it was back in 2005 so prices have likely gone up!

When I was messing around with Mustangs a few years later I did a few off-the-shelf mail order tunes; Brenspeed, Bama, Tillman…I think they were sub-$200 for a 3-pak via e-mail. Had to drop a few $ for the handheld SCT Tuner initially to load ‘em though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro