Frustrated Newbie...

some advice i can give you is, get more light

You're right, of course.

It was overcast today and I was afraid it was going to rain on me so I worked in the garage. I stayed dry...but I couldn't see much.

I will definitely practice. I have two DD to practice on. I just bought a 07 Vette which is the whole reason that I even found this addictive website but I'm too scared to touch it yet. ha
 
RE: More pressure....
Watching the video, I know that it recommends applying 15# of pressure (assuming that the PC weighs 5#. It seems to to me that the PCXP weighs more than 5# and it doesn't take much pressure to stop the pad from spinning.

Like I said....frustrated. Spent about 8 hours today washing, claying, taping, polishing, finishing only to not be very impressed.

Eh...there is always tomorrow.

Mark your backing plate with a Sharpie. Apply as much pressure as possible, but keep the pad spinning. The Sharpie mark will help you see if the backing plate is spinning

6.5" pad....speed 6 for for swirl removal and 5 for finishing glaze.

This is what I got delivered on Friday.
Wolfgang Duo & Porter Cable 7424XP FREE BONUS

If I were you, I would order a quart of 105 and 4-6.5" Surbuf pads. If your going to get a 5" backing plate, order 3 orange and 3 black 5.5" foam flat pads too

If you order either of these combo's, when the product (105) Flashes (dries) spritz the area with water, then go back at it

Did I mention working in small areas?

Thanks, guys......I do appreciate you taking the time on a Saturday night to try to help me!!!

What else would I be doing on a Saturday night then glued to AG Forum :help:
 
When I make another attempt today, do I need to clean off the Finishing Glaze that is on the paint before taking another run with the Orange Pad and the Swirl Remover?
 
When I make another attempt today, do I need to clean off the Finishing Glaze that is on the paint before taking another run with the Orange Pad and the Swirl Remover?

Absolutely Yes!!!

Also, make sure you don't cross contaminate your pad with two different products
 
If you order either of these combo's, when the product (105) Flashes (dries) spritz the area with water, then go back at it

I orderd M105, M205 and surbuf pads. Gonna work on the SUV this weekend.

When you say spritz the area.....do you spray the pad or the buffing area? I want to avoid slinging the water everywhere.

Thx.
 
I orderd M105, M205 and surbuf pads. Gonna work on the SUV this weekend.

When you say spritz the area.....do you spray the pad or the buffing area? I want to avoid slinging the water everywhere.

Thx.

Spray the panel. Just a quick hit
 
Thanks, Flash.

I also ordered some 5.5" CCS pads. The 6.5" pads that came with the PC weren't cutting it.

I'll do a test spot with those first and if that doesn't cut it, I'll move up to the surbuf pad.

Thanks again for the help.
 
It is not uncommon to feel a bit frustrated when first starting out. First, never let any paint whip you. You have to show it who is the boss. Who is the boss? Jim! Like MJ said, some water spots can be difficult to remove, especially since they may have etched the clear coat.

You may want to start with a small 2x2 section. Let's get that small area perfected before we move on. Your pads and products are good. LC orange with the WG Total Swirl Remover can tackle some nasty defects. Downward pressure on the PC is important. Take a Sharpie marker and put a thick line on the outside edge of the backing plate. You want enough pressure on the pad but still need the pad to rotate. The mark will let you know if the pad is spinning properly. Move slowly with your passes like in the video. It may take a few section passes before you see the results you want.

Take your time and work small. Move down from the orange to the white pads if you have some. Finishing Glaze on white should finish down great without needing the black pad. The black has almost no cut at all. Nissan paint is fairly soft so the orange and white should get it done. Deeper defects,scratches will not be removed with the PC but don't worry about that. We all strive for perfection and have to live with some imperfections.


:iagree: He has put you in the right direction. If you think your section is small, make it smaller. As a newbie, I learned that your sections tend to "grow" after a few passes. CCS pads are reticulated, aka open cell foam. These type of pads are more absorbent and more porous-this info is taken straight from Mike's book (Which I HIGHLY recommend anyone getting if they're using a DA). You'll need to work the product in alot longer when using open cell foam pads. Go with Porsche Pilot's recommendations, but work the product longer. I just got done using the TSR and FG on my Acura. I used a Lake Country tangerine hydro tech pad with the TSR and like it ALOT better than the CCS pads, however there is nothing wrong with your pad. Just, like I said, gotta work the product longer.

Also...make sure you're cleaning your pads on the fly after every other section. You want to keep the pads minimally saturated as possible. I absolutely love the XMT Pad Cleanser and Condition when polishing with a DA:

XMT Pad Care Combo <font size=2><i>by Pinnacle</i></font>
 
Thanks, Flash.

I also ordered some 5.5" CCS pads. The 6.5" pads that came with the PC weren't cutting it.

I'll do a test spot with those first and if that doesn't cut it, I'll move up to the surbuf pad.

Thanks again for the help.

After you spritz the panel, start back spreading the product on 3 or 4 (this will help you reduce sling) Crank it back up to 6 asap and apply firm pressure. You can do this (spritz) more then once if necessary

It can be very time consuming, so take your time :buffing:
 
Any luck today Jim?

When I just went to your user profile to dig up this thread, I noticed your currently viewing a thread on stubborn scratches

lol
 
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