Frustrated with MF pads
- Thread starter BorisC
- Start date
tuscarora dave
Active member
- Aug 21, 2009
- 5,408
- 12
I've only tried the Meg's, Optimum and Lake Country Ultrafiber MF pads. I use MF exclusively now in a production setting.
I initially prime the entire face of the MF pad with a thin film of compound and work it for several section passes with just the thin film of compound on it. After completing the first work section (test section) I blow the pad with compressed air, then do a quick brushing of the fibers to dislodge any abraded off clear coat before another quick spin with the compressed air to blow out what was dislodged by the brushing.
After the initial priming and first work section is completed and the pad has been cleaned off, I apply 4 drops of product (a little bigger than pea sized) about one inch in from the outer edge of the pad. Holding the polisher between my knees I spin the pad with one hand and spread the 4 drops of product into the fibers in the outer 1-1/2" of the pad, being careful not to add anymore product to the center area of the pad. The product tends to migrate toward the center of the pad naturally so if I'd add more product to the center area of the pad, it would end up getting too saturated with product and this product saturation combined with the friction heat of downward pressure is what causes the adhesive to be degraded on these pads.
After every worked section, I feel the center of the pad with the back of my fingers to see if there is any heat building up in the pad. This is where the compressed air comes in handy. If there is "any heat" present, I give the pad a spin with the compressed air starting at the outer edge of the pad to get it spinning really fast (machine powered off) and work my air nozzle from the outer edge of the pad, in to the center of the pad and then back out to the outer edge again. This cools the pad back down.
As a rule...If there is heat present, there is plenty of product (S.M.A.T.) remaining in the pad to move on with the next work section (or to continue polishing/compounding the same work section) so without adding more product, I either move on or continue compounding the unfinished work section after blowing the pad with the compressed air to cool it down. I used to be concerned about the fibers getting mashed down against the pad in the center area and would find myself over brushing the pad all the time. I've determined that if there is the right amount of working product remaining in the pad, re-brushing the fibers is really to no avail as it tends to cut just as well regardless of whether it's brushed or not (so why waste time brushing) when you can spend time continuing on with your compounding duties.
The key is to be constantly testing to see what's the least amount of product that gets the work done with these MF pads, while maintaining a cool pad through the entire process. I've found that to achieve this balance of cutting efficiency and a cool running pad, the compressed air is a necessity. At roughly $10 each for MF pads, increasing the life of your pads with compressed air (if you are doing a lot of compounding) can easily pay for the price of a small cast iron air compressor. The oil free compressors won't have the duty cycle capability to keep up with continued use day in and day out so a little extra should be spent on a cast iron oiled compressor. Waste the money on buying pads all the time or spend the money on a small cast iron air compressor. If you'll be doing more than just playing around in the garage from time to time polishing a car or 2 a year, simply put... you'll need the right tools to do the job.
I'd much rather spend money on an air compressor than to waste money destroying pads all the time.
Just some of my thoughts on the subject as I have learned it in a production setting. Hope it helps...TD
P.S. I've found that (of the one's I've tried) the Lake Country UltraFiber pads last the longest.
I initially prime the entire face of the MF pad with a thin film of compound and work it for several section passes with just the thin film of compound on it. After completing the first work section (test section) I blow the pad with compressed air, then do a quick brushing of the fibers to dislodge any abraded off clear coat before another quick spin with the compressed air to blow out what was dislodged by the brushing.
After the initial priming and first work section is completed and the pad has been cleaned off, I apply 4 drops of product (a little bigger than pea sized) about one inch in from the outer edge of the pad. Holding the polisher between my knees I spin the pad with one hand and spread the 4 drops of product into the fibers in the outer 1-1/2" of the pad, being careful not to add anymore product to the center area of the pad. The product tends to migrate toward the center of the pad naturally so if I'd add more product to the center area of the pad, it would end up getting too saturated with product and this product saturation combined with the friction heat of downward pressure is what causes the adhesive to be degraded on these pads.
After every worked section, I feel the center of the pad with the back of my fingers to see if there is any heat building up in the pad. This is where the compressed air comes in handy. If there is "any heat" present, I give the pad a spin with the compressed air starting at the outer edge of the pad to get it spinning really fast (machine powered off) and work my air nozzle from the outer edge of the pad, in to the center of the pad and then back out to the outer edge again. This cools the pad back down.
As a rule...If there is heat present, there is plenty of product (S.M.A.T.) remaining in the pad to move on with the next work section (or to continue polishing/compounding the same work section) so without adding more product, I either move on or continue compounding the unfinished work section after blowing the pad with the compressed air to cool it down. I used to be concerned about the fibers getting mashed down against the pad in the center area and would find myself over brushing the pad all the time. I've determined that if there is the right amount of working product remaining in the pad, re-brushing the fibers is really to no avail as it tends to cut just as well regardless of whether it's brushed or not (so why waste time brushing) when you can spend time continuing on with your compounding duties.
The key is to be constantly testing to see what's the least amount of product that gets the work done with these MF pads, while maintaining a cool pad through the entire process. I've found that to achieve this balance of cutting efficiency and a cool running pad, the compressed air is a necessity. At roughly $10 each for MF pads, increasing the life of your pads with compressed air (if you are doing a lot of compounding) can easily pay for the price of a small cast iron air compressor. The oil free compressors won't have the duty cycle capability to keep up with continued use day in and day out so a little extra should be spent on a cast iron oiled compressor. Waste the money on buying pads all the time or spend the money on a small cast iron air compressor. If you'll be doing more than just playing around in the garage from time to time polishing a car or 2 a year, simply put... you'll need the right tools to do the job.
I'd much rather spend money on an air compressor than to waste money destroying pads all the time.
Just some of my thoughts on the subject as I have learned it in a production setting. Hope it helps...TD
P.S. I've found that (of the one's I've tried) the Lake Country UltraFiber pads last the longest.
rmagnus
New member
- May 28, 2011
- 1,446
- 0
I didn't see it mentioned but the early pads Meguisrs put to market had some glue failures and they have changed the process for newer inventory. They were aware of it and made the changes. That said all the other advise is solid in this thread. Heat, speed and too much product are killers for mf pads.
My preference is wool and foam. I can put a mf pad on a DA for more correction (cut) or I can use a rotary or Flex 3401 that has more power and select wool or foam to get the job done more efficiently. I usually opt for the later.
Same destination just a different route. If you stay with mf you really need compressed air to clean and cool the pads.
My preference is wool and foam. I can put a mf pad on a DA for more correction (cut) or I can use a rotary or Flex 3401 that has more power and select wool or foam to get the job done more efficiently. I usually opt for the later.
Same destination just a different route. If you stay with mf you really need compressed air to clean and cool the pads.
van185
New member
- Oct 26, 2011
- 502
- 0
I use a Flex and have MF pads from Chemical Guys. I clean the pads often with a pad cleaning brush and have never experienced any type of pad failure. I really like the pads and have ordered several of their new pads that came out this week. I hope they work as good as their older pads. Hope I haven't just jinxed myself.