Full detailing procedure

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Hello,

I am getting into the passion of car detailing and I would like to understand the whole process of detailing my car for the first time. I will do this by hand with help from friends. This is what I think and please correct me:

1. Wash
2. Clay detailing
3. Remove small scratches and etchings with Meguiars UC
4. Remove swirls
5. Polish the whole car (maybe the polish removes swirls so 4 isn't needed?)
6. Sealant
7. Wax
8. Wax deatilling spray as final touch

Please correct my procedure and also recommend products for each step since I am clueless :)

Thanks
 
You can pretty much delete step 4 because if you are using UC, it will most likely get most if not all of the swirls out. Polish will just refine your paint after the compounding step.
 
3 and 5 would take care of swirls. Add a iron decon product in their especially on light colored vehicles before the clay and your good to go. You can also eliminate 7 and 8 or 6 and 8 depending on your LSP of choice.
 
3 and 5 would take care of swirls. Add a iron decon product in their especially on light colored vehicles before the clay and your good to go. You can also eliminate 7 and 8 or 6 and 8 depending on your LSP of choice.

My car is a Volvo S40 balck metallic paint...what is an iron decon?
 
Ok thanks!

Even though some people say 6 7 or 8 can be excluded, I prefer to do a complete list for academic purposes:

1. Wash
2. Iron Decon detailing - Iron X
3. Wash
4. Clay Detailing - Product?
5. Compound Detailing - Meguiar's UC
6. Polish - Product?
7. Sealant - Product?
8. Wax - Product?
9. Wax detailling spray as final touch - Product?
 
Ok thanks!

Even though some people say 6 7 or 8 can be excluded, I prefer to do a complete list for academic purposes:

1. Wash
2. Iron Decon detailing - Iron X
3. Wash
4. Clay Detailing - Product?
5. Compound Detailing - Meguiar's UC
6. Polish - Product?
7. Sealant - Product?
8. Wax - Product?
9. Wax detailling spray as final touch - Product?

For #3 and #4, you could use the very popular Optimum No Rinse; it can also double as a clay lube. For clay, Pinnacle seems to be the popular choice. You can also use a clay substitute. The Nanoskin Speedy Prep Sponge is inexpensive.

If you like Meg's UC, they make Ultimate Polish too. Heck, you can use all Meg's Ultimate products; UC, UP, and Ultimate Wax (which is really a sealant). Top it with Meg's #26 wax. The nice thing about those products...besides working well...is that they are sold everywhere. They are not expensive either.

I don't see any point in #9, but a spray wax is good for topping off after maintenance washes. Of course Meg's makes an Ultimate spray wax.
 
Hello,

I am getting into the passion of car detailing and I would like to understand the whole process of detailing my car for the first time. I will do this by hand with help from friends. This is what I think and please correct me:

1. Wash
2. Clay detailing
3. Remove small scratches and etchings with Meguiars UC
4. Remove swirls
5. Polish the whole car (maybe the polish removes swirls so 4 isn't needed?)
6. Sealant
7. Wax
8. Wax deatilling spray as final touch

Please correct my procedure and also recommend products for each step since I am clueless :)

Thanks

Although compounding by hand can be done it's a very labor intensive process and time consuming. Your best bet is to pick up the harbor freight DA polisher for around $50 if you are tight on money.

For your LSP you can't go wrong with collinite. It has such a strong following because it's such a great product.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
What does LSP mean and which exact product of collinite are you talking about brondondolon?

Sorry I am new here...

Furthermore, do I have to do all steps the same day or can I do them separately on my own time?
 
LSP is last step product & collinite 845 is what I have used and it's awesome a lil will go a long way. You can probably do a dozen cars with a bottle of 845.
 
So its basically my step 9 in the list above?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
If you'd like some product suggestions that perform, take a look at these. I guarantee they will not disappoint...

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar's
Compound - Menzerna FG-400
Polish - Menzerna PF-2500
Finishing Polish - Menzerna SF-4000
Sealant - Wolf's Hard Body Sealant
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax - Optimum Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Wheel Cleaner - PoorBoy's Spray & Rinse
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Wheel Protectant - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Trim Protectant - CarPro DLux
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
Interior Protectant - Meguiar's M40


In the event you decide to do some paint correction, here's some information on pads.

Foam Pads

Yellow Cutting Foam
- Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
 
If you'd like some product suggestions that perform, take a look at these. I guarantee they will not disappoint...

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar's
Compound - Menzerna FG-400
Polish - Menzerna PF-2500
Finishing Polish - Menzerna SF-4000
Sealant - Wolf's Hard Body Sealant
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax - Optimum Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Wheel Cleaner - PoorBoy's Spray & Rinse
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Wheel Protectant - Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Trim Protectant - CarPro DLux
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
Interior Protectant - Meguiar's M40


In the event you decide to do some paint correction, here's some information on pads.

Foam Pads

Yellow Cutting Foam
- Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

Thanks alot for the answer! Could you please tell me what pad I should use for these: please have in mind, no machine, all by hand
1. Iron Decon detailing
2. Compound Detailing for etcings and swirls
3. Polish
4. Sealant
5. Wax
6. Wax detailing spray as final touch


Thanks
 
Thanks alot for the answer! Could you please tell me what pad I should use for these: please have in mind, no machine, all by hand
1. Iron Decon detailing
2. Compound Detailing for etchings and swirls
3. Polish
4. Sealant
5. Wax
6. Wax detailing spray as final touch
Thanks

I copied this directly from the web page as it does a great job at explaining what each are used for.


  • Compounds - Orange
  • Polish - White
  • Sealants - Red & Gold
  • Wax - Red & Gold
  • Spray Wax - Microfiber towel


The Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicators are available in these foam varieties:

orange-handapp.jpg
Orange Light Cutting Applicator – The orange foam is the most popular type of foam used in making buffing pads. It has a texture like memory foam but denser. It can be used to remove light to moderate swirls with little or no loss of surface gloss. Use a light swirl remover, such as XMT Ultra Fine Swirl Remover 1 or XMT Fine Swirl Remover 2. In most cases, you can go straight to wax application with the red applicator. Use the orange pad for spot correction or on the entire vehicle.
white-handapp.jpg
White Polishing Applicator – For general polishing and pre-wax cleaning, we recommend the white polishing foam. This is one of the most versatile foam compositions. Use it to apply finishing polishes, pre-wax cleaners, and all in one products, for example Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion or Klasse All In One. The foam is less dense than the orange pad. It has just enough density to help clean and polish the paint, but it will not produce haze.
red-handapp.jpg
Red Ultra Soft Finishing Applicator – The red foam is designed specifically for the application of waxes, sealants, and glazes. It has no cut or cleaning ability. The soft foam will not leave any haze and it is gentle on all automotive surfaces. Use the red foam applicator with any last step product to product a smooth, flawless finish.
gold-app-200w.jpg
Gold Jewelling Applicator - Use the gold pad to apply a very fine polish or glaze as the final step of the polishing process. Jewelling is the term coined for this step because it intensifies gloss and reflectivity, like a jewel. The gold foam pad also works well for wax and sealant application.​
 
What does LSP mean


Here you go....


LSP - The definition and the story behind the term

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Back in the early 1990's I used the term LSP when talking to a customer about detailing their car and as I used it in conversation it meant,

LSP = Last Step Product

Last Step Product means the last product to be applied and then removed off the paint before making the final wipe and then returning the keys and the car back to the owner and saying, it is finished.

Some people have thought that it means Last Step Protectant and it can mean that if you want to use it that way but it originally meant Last Step Product and there's a distinct reason for this, let me explain.

While most detailers work on cured paint, that is a car that has the original factory cured paint, my work included clients with freshly painted cars, or clients that didn't want their car's paint sealed with either a car wax or a paint sealant.

When working on freshly painted car, that is paint that is less than 30 days old, there is not a single paint manufacture that recommends sealing the paint before at least a minimum of 30 days air-cure has passed to insure any and all solvents or other ingredients used to thin and spray the paint have had a chance to outgass unhindered.

Car Waxes, Synthetic Paint Sealants, or Hybrid products, which is a blend of both natural protection ingredients combined with synthetic protection ingredients, no matter which one you use, all three types act to protect paint by doing a number of different things but one of these things is they seal the paint by coating over it and depositing their protection ingredients onto the surface.

It is this coating over and sealing with a sacrificial barrier coating that paint manufactures recommend a waiting period of at least 30 days and sometimes 60 or 90 days as recommendations differ between paint manufactures.

Because some of my work would involve sanding and then compounding and polishing paint that is less than 30 days old, the Last Step Product wold be a fresh-paint-safe Glaze or non-abrasive Pure Polish, not a wax or paint sealant.

Also, some of my customers owned cars that were on display only, never driven and instead of using a wax or paint sealant to lay down a coating of protection, they would request the car only be polished using a Glaze or non-abrasive Pure Polish.

Most companies that create products for use in body shops where fresh paint is sprayed also offer fresh-paint-safe Glazes and/or non-abrasive Pure Polishes and these types of product can be used on both fresh paint and also on cured paint if a person so desires. Because they are fresh-paint-safe, or "Body Shop Safe", they are usually water soluble and offer no protection in the way you think of a Car Wax or Synthetic Paint Sealant offers protection.


The point being, when I coined the term LSP, in the context I was using it, it meant Last Step Product because not all my last steps included applying a protection product like a car wax or paint sealant but instead included fresh paint glazes and polishes.

Anyway, that's what the term meant, the last product you apply before you make your final wipe and the job is finished.

Now days in the discussion forum world most people use the term in a way that means Last Step Product or Last Step Protectant but in both instances the words Product and Protectant are used in the context of a paint protection product like a car wax or paint sealant.

Perfectly okay by me, I just thought I would share the original meaning behind the word.


Cleaners versus No Cleaners
There has also been instances where people would define the term LSP to mean Last Step Protectant and the word Protectant specifically meant a finishing wax or a finishing sealant, not a cleaner/wax of any type.

If you're doing production detailing work and you're using a one-step cleaner/wax or cleaner/sealant, and this is the last product you apply to the paint, (and usually the first and only product you apply to the paint), then in a situation like this it's completely possible for a cleaner/wax to be the LSP, as in the cleaner/wax is the Last Step Product.


As near as I can track down, here's the first use of the acronym LSP on a discussion forum that dates to October 25th, 2003 and it was by me when posting to a thread about a new paint sealant that ended up becoming NXT Tech Wax.


!!!!! Meguiar's Lab Sample "d"!!!!! - Page 3

Post #68

Mike Phillips said:
Tomorrow, If I'm lucky, I will be meeting the owner of one of the original Batmobiles. If I'm even luckier, the owner will give me permission to detail his treasure. If I am granted this blessing, (a detailers dream come true), I will not hesitate to use this next generation of polymer technology as a last step product, (LSP), after first massaging-out the existing defects and bring the surface to a super smooth, high gloss finish.


And that's the story...

:)
 
I'll probably be repeating a lot of what has already been said.
I think #3,4,5 are basically the same thing. Polishing the paint (by machine, not so much if you're trying it by hand) should remove scratches, etchings and swirls. It might be a polish combo like Meguiars 105/205 or something similar. After this, maybe a finishing polish. However, if a polish like Meguiar's 205 is used correctly, I'm not sure you'll be able to see any difference by polishing with a final polish (I think it depends on the car- daily driver vs show car; maybe 2003 Toyota or 2014 Maserati). As was mentioned earlier, if the car is white, you might consider using a product like, Iron-X to remove particles of iron embedded in the paint. Finally, not sure about the, "wax detailing spray". In my limited experience, if the car is correctly polished and carefully sealed/waxed- I think your done. Have a cold glass of tea and enjoy your masterpiece before the birds find it.
 
You don't even have to put wax on top of the sealant
 
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