Gel Coat/ Fiber Glass / Top Coat Question - Any experience please respond!

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Alright guys - here's the dilemma :

1993 Winnebago - owner stripped top coat (clear on gel coat IMO) with putty knife. It was stripped VERY unevenly, and each area looks as if it is to a thin layer of clear. I did 3 test spots on the stripped areas and was able to produce a significant difference. With that said, there are other areas that look either in rough shape and/or in descent shape. Im worried about performing a 90% correction because of the unevenness of the surface, but then again this gentleman isn't trying to dish out the mula to provide a 100% correction on his investment. While my gut feeling says not to touch it due to the condition, my pro detailer side says that I can correct anything and produce a ridiculous turnaround.

My question to you all with experience in this area is...... Is there a chemical that will strip the top coat without thinning the gel coat? Have any of you turned around any type of project like this? I want to help this gentleman out, but at the same time do not want to risk damaging his surface or producing sub par results! Any help would be appreciated!
 
Just did my trailer that was in bad shape, can you post a pic?


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I have been told Gel coats are usually 15-20 mils thick and companies usually don't clear over gel coat being gel is harder. Can you see any fibers showing? Can it be an aftermarket coating that is peeling? Can you post some photos? I had a few that had fiber showing and just worked enough to get a good shine and sealed and it made a big deference. I don't have to tell you, sometimes you can only do so much.

I have been by your website; you do some great work on the RVs and Buses. What products are you using? I seem to sometimes have a problem with a blotchy finish using a one step product but only on certain RVs. Also seem to have better results with good quality auto product then with the ones made for gel coat. Things have gotten better with the Rotary and wool finishing pads I bought. I was using a DA
 
Meg's #67 is an amazing one step product


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Just did my trailer that was in bad shape, can you post a pic?


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online

Unfortunately my camera on my phone is busted, so I couldn't snap any pics :/

I have been told Gel coats are usually 15-20 mils thick and companies usually don't clear over gel coat being gel is harder. Can you see any fibers showing? Can it be an aftermarket coating that is peeling? Can you post some photos? I had a few that had fiber showing and just worked enough to get a good shine and sealed and it made a big deference. I don't have to tell you, sometimes you can only do so much.

I have been by your website; you do some great work on the RVs and Buses. What products are you using? I seem to sometimes have a problem with a blotchy finish using a one step product but only on certain RVs. Also seem to have better results with good quality auto product then with the ones made for gel coat. Things have gotten better with the Rotary and wool finishing pads I bought. I was using a DA

I am thinking that the clear was applied later on in its years and it started peeling, so this gentleman decided to scrape it off. I looked at a small damaged area and saw that there is still a bit of gel coat on this RV. The main issue I suppose would be getting the clear completely removed without damaging the gel underneath - then I can work some magic I think. Wonder if their are any chemicals for that?

Thanx for the compliment man. We use 3m, Ardex, Nuvite, and others..... Rotary is a neccessity in my eyes for most RVs, Boats, and Buses to provide top results.
 
I am thinking that the clear was applied later on in its years and it started peeling, so this gentleman decided to scrape it off.


Unless you don't have another customer lined-up and need the work, I would walk away from this project and let someone else have the blessing...

If it turns out good you're the hero. If it turns out bad you'll be the zero and you don't need anyone bad mouthing your good reputation because you tried to help them out of a jamb from the goodness of your heart.

Ugh...

  • Clear paint sprayed onto a gel-coat finish
  • Some places the clear has been scraped off (scraping scratches to boot)
  • Some places the clear has good/concrete adhesion

Double ugh...


I don't know of any chemical strong enough to dissolve clear paint that won't also try to dissolve polyester resin. That's a can a works I wouldn't want to open.


Heck, buffing out a RV is a ton of work to start with let alone one that has "issues". Reminds me of some signs I've seen in auto repair shops for their hourly rate.

  • Labor - $65.09 an hour
  • You worked on it first? $85.00 an hour

Good luck on your "Go" or "No Go" decision.


:)
 
I'm with Mike.....time to bow out on this one. The risk is high and the pay will not be worth the massive effort.
 
A friend of mine wet sanded his RV, it wasn't as much work as it sounds (a lot of flat big area and he did it by hand) but he didn't have to remove a coat of Clear. Maybe you could try that on an edge where the peeling and gel meet to see what it would take. If the customer is willing to pay for what is needed..
 
If you do decide to go that route, just be careful around the areas that are normally painted aluminum. Usually around the slides, door, and storage compartments.
 
Unless you don't have another customer lined-up and need the work, I would walk away from this project and let someone else have the blessing...

If it turns out good you're the hero. If it turns out bad you'll be the zero and you don't need anyone bad mouthing your good reputation because you tried to help them out of a jamb from the goodness of your heart.

Ugh...

  • Clear paint sprayed onto a gel-coat finish
  • Some places the clear has been scraped off (scraping scratches to boot)
  • Some places the clear has good/concrete adhesion

Double ugh...


I don't know of any chemical strong enough to dissolve clear paint that won't also try to dissolve polyester resin. That's a can a works I wouldn't want to open.


Heck, buffing out a RV is a ton of work to start with let alone one that has "issues". Reminds me of some signs I've seen in auto repair shops for their hourly rate.

  • Labor - $65.09 an hour
  • You worked on it first? $85.00 an hour

Good luck on your "Go" or "No Go" decision.


:)


I've been feeling this way, and hearing it from you Mike solidifies my choice. Thanks man..... appreciate the advice!
 
I'm with Mike.....time to bow out on this one. The risk is high and the pay will not be worth the massive effort.

A friend of mine wet sanded his RV, it wasn't as much work as it sounds (a lot of flat big area and he did it by hand) but he didn't have to remove a coat of Clear. Maybe you could try that on an edge where the peeling and gel meet to see what it would take. If the customer is willing to pay for what is needed..

If you do decide to go that route, just be careful around the areas that are normally painted aluminum. Usually around the slides, door, and storage compartments.


Thanks guys, I'd love to take this project and create the biggest turnaroundever lol, but passing is my best bet I think. Thnx for your help though!
 
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