Getting a Flex or PC ?

jmark

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I am thinking of a PC 7424 starter kit or stepping up to the Flex XC3401.

I currently detail my own vehicles some of which or garaged and some that aren't. I have my Silver Nismo 350Z, son's Black Xterra, wifes blue Miata and our Honda Pilot.

The Xterra & Pilot are outside. I am using the following products so far and I am pretty happy with the results.

Pinnacle Car Wash Shampoo
Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
Pinnacle Signature Series II Wax (Probably only use on the Z after doing the steps below.)

I washed my son's Black Xterra last weekend then used the Pinnacle Paint Cleansing Lotion followed by the Wolfgang DG paint Sealant. Really looks nice except for a few minor inperfections in the hood (looks like bird crap etching or water spots). My question is would the Porter Cable 7424 or Flex XC3401 speed up the process and help save my back? Basically waxing the car twice by hand is a killer. What do you think? Other options to help me out? Do all the new Flex XC3401 come with the improved backing plate?
 
The Flex is a natural progression from the PC for most hobbist to something more powerful and less time consuming. If I had the choice, I would likely have skipped the PC/UDM and went to the Flex. But can honestly say my 5 year old PC did me right many times.
 
The Flex or PC will give you a lot more options on what you can use to correct your paint. They won't always save big blocks of time but should save your back/arms.
 
if your gonna go, go with the flex... yes the flex's have the new BP. Go with 5.5" lc pads and menz SIP and 106ff for your polishes!!
 
if your gonna go, go with the flex... yes the flex's have the new BP. Go with 5.5" lc pads and menz SIP and 106ff for your polishes!!
Does the newest BP take different size pads?
 
Get the flex.I have the PC and it takes forever to correct paint.
 
Does the newest BP take different size pads?


not really, same size and hook/loop design. Using pads smaller will damage finish especially if you slip. Edge does make an adapter and sells it direct currently, they actually machine the adapter into the backing plate.
 
I have both the PC and the Flex and in my opinion the Flex goes to another level above the PC. If price is important, then the PC is still a great machine, but if you can swing the price, go for the Flex and consider the Edge pad system and their Flex adapter. You won't be disapointed. I'm wasn't.
 
Flex all the way! I recently acquired the Flex and it blows the PC away! It acts like a PC on steroids and it has a much more powerful correction ability! It cuts your time significantly. It's also easy to learn so go ahead man!
 
So does the 5.5" BP use the 5.5" or 6.5" LC pads?
 
Dunno if I want to take a chance on the "FLex" and then have to go deal with the importer to get it fixed...
 
If u dont want to spend the money the PC is deffinetly a good machine to get.I love mine.if i detail a few more cars and put some money away ill by another as a back up incase this 1 burns up.
 
Flex seems to be well backed from what I have read here.
 
So does the 5.5" BP use the 5.5" or 6.5" LC pads?

It can accomodate either, but I would advise you use the 6.5" LC pads as that extra 1/2" on either side of the BP provides a safety cushion should you slip and hit a side-view mirror or wiper blade, etc. A 5.5" pad would increase the chances of the BP directly hitting something.
 
Makes sense. Thanks! Is the Flex XC 3401 in stock here right now?
 
I will throw my 2 cents in here. I just recently upgraded from the original PC (non XP) to a Flex and am very happy with this decision. The Flex is more ergonomically developed and just reeks of quality. Let me say that the PC is a great beginner tool and did me right on some finishes and saved my butt more than once, but left me hanging on tougher jobs. I jumped up to 7.5" wool using a rotary but the margin for error using this setup is very small and I would not attempt it on someone elses car for money. I wanted something to fill the gap and enter the Flex. An alternative was the GG but I was more impressed with the Flex and did not want to come up short so was willing to cough up the extra money.

One of the things talked about on these forums is power. Just for grins I hooked up a load meter to my tools and found the following:

Flex Freewheeling at 6 setting (highest) 4.5 amps
Flex with a LC 6.5" orange flat pad on sheet metal with a 10 lb load 9.0 amps

PC Freehwheeling on 6.0 setting 2.1 amp
PC under same 10 lbs load with LC orange 3.8 amps

Now realize that this original PC was rated for 4.0 amps and in fact comes close to this. The XP is rated at 4.5 amps so I assume it will run close to that under the same loaded condition.

But interestingly enough, the Flex exceeded advertised current draw by 1.2 amps!

A simple test was to run your hand on the pad with equal pressure with the highest setting on both tools and with the Flex, it was too hot to touch after 3 to 4 seconds. With the PC it was 7 or 8 seconds....roughly double the time which is somewhat consistent with current draw. Now realize that these mechanisms are different which will affect output efficiency and cutting ability etc, but it is clear that the Flex power (ability to generate friction and heat at the pad surface is at least double of the older PC and at least 70% more than the XP. My guess is the GG is somewhere in between the Flex and XP but I am GUESSING here. (Love to try one just for grins).

In addition to ergonomical advantages such as the Flex handle is smaller and easier to grip and is further away from the motor so it will not run hot, and the fact that the Flex has easier speed control adjustments on the fly and a soft start and trigger lock and easier to hold forward grip, and less jiggly and possible less fatigue factor despite weighing a tad more than the PC, it does come down to power.

I suppose one can make up for lack of power from the machine by increasing Pad courseness or more aggressive chemical but It seems to me that solution will create other issues given the same amount of time applied to the job.

One of the reasons why the PC is "safe" to use is because it is not that aggressive and you can 'sneak up" to your desired finish but it takes more time. I would think that with a slightly milder polish and a more aggressive tool you can achieve the same results in less time on certain jobs.

As a practical matter, most light swirl jobs can be corrected in the same amount of time whether you use PC at 5 and Flex at 3 or whatever. But on the 1 out of 4 jobs where you need the extra power, I suspect but have not yet proven that you could save some significant time with the Flex. (plenty of others out there have said this is so and I believe them). And time is money. If I was a full time detailer I would not be without the Flex as it it could pay for itself in 2 weeks.

But let me say that the PC is a proven tool and is more than adequate for 75% of the typical buffing job, but over 12 months of even weekend detailing the Flex will justify itself and its higher costs in my opinion. :xyxthumbs:
 
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