Getting back in the saddle

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Lurchalicious

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Hi all, got my kit out of the basement - haven't used my menzerna products in a long time and the bottles are originally from 2010 ish.

I have some final finish, intensive polish and finishing glaze 115c. Lake Co orange and white pads( 3+ of each) a red, a gray, and a blue. Pinnacle sovereign wax and Wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant. Porter cable DA.

Are my menzerna bottles still good? Does this stuff have a shelf life?

I am having trouble lining up what the new names are of these bottles. The grids and cross references all have numbers after the names when trying to find the new product.

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nobody knows these old labels and what they would be called today?
 
Lurchalicious said:
nobody knows these old labels and what they would be called today?
Click to expand...


Sorry, but forums are not instaneonous. I for one am always a tick busy... Years ago I wrote an article for the new names AT THE TIME, here's that article from 2012 with pictures that have not disappeared like all the pictures that people have posted to Photobucket


Menzerna - New Names and Product Numbers


Menzerna has introduced all new labels and product names for identifying their products. I know it's easy to stick with what you know and change can be hard but the new product names and identifying numbers are here to stay so might as well make the switch when talking and typing about them..



NewMenzernaLabels001.jpg



NewMenzernaLabels001.jpg





No label change at this time for,







Since then they've changed the name AGAIN. And sorry to say I have not had time to write an updated article. Here's the link to the Menzerna store page on Autogeek.com


Menzerna Polishing Compounds


Hope that helps...


And welcome back to the game...


:)
 
Lurchalicious said:
Are my menzerna bottles still good?

Does this stuff have a shelf life?
Click to expand...


I just answered this question for a guy using an old bottle of #7 Show Car Glaze via e-mail. Here's what I wrote to him,


If you can shake the product up and it has a uniform consistency then it’s safe to use.

I have #7 from the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s and not only are they good I use them on classic cars.

I really prefer to discuss car detailing on our forum and not in e-mails. All this information could be read by thousands of people instead of just two.



:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
I just answered this question for a guy using an old bottle of #7 Show Car Glaze via e-mail. Here's what I wrote to him,


If you can shake the product up and it has a uniform consistency then it’s safe to use.

I have #7 from the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s and not only are they good I use them on classic cars.

I really prefer to discuss car detailing on our forum and not in e-mails. All this information could be read by thousands of people instead of just two.



:)
Click to expand...

You're fantastic mike - I always appreciate that you're so active on these forums.

I was looking at the cut level of the products - this older bottle of intensive polish has the same cut as the power finish;
The older bottle of Final Finish has the same cut level as the super finish.

Not to say they are the same - but trying to place in my mind where they fall in the new product line.

Ill be using these on a 2015 Tornado Red VW GTI. It was originally coated with simoniz glasscoat at the dealer and honestly still has sheeting and a slick feel.

Vehicle has minimal swirl markings so I do not think a full multi step would be needed - I was going to use my final finish and a white pad (goto orange if needed) and follow up with my wolfgang paintwork polish enhancer. From there I wanted to use Mckees 37 ceramic coating.
 
Lurchalicious said:
You're fantastic mike - I always appreciate that you're so active on these forums.

I was looking at the cut level of the products - this older bottle of intensive polish has the same cut as the power finish;
The older bottle of Final Finish has the same cut level as the super finish.

Not to say they are the same - but trying to place in my mind where they fall in the new product line.
Click to expand...

You're probably right, I haven't used the new labeled products for a while so I'd have to stop my other projects and start a new project and I'm sorry to say I simply don't have time.

It would seem we would have a stellar forum member this is familiar with the names that could post but I notice most people read but never post anymore, kind of sad...



Lurchalicious said:
I was going to use my final finish and a white pad (goto orange if needed) and follow up with my wolfgang paintwork polish enhancer.

From there I wanted to use Mckees 37 ceramic coating.
Click to expand...


Someday I'll write the article that explains that paint clears are "Either/Or" products.

You either use a paint cleaner and then move on or you use a polish and SKIP the paint cleaner and move on. You don't use both as not only is it a redundant step, (waste of time), a true polish will do MORE than a paint cleaner.

So use the polish and then chemically strip the paint (carefully) and then apply the McKee's Paint Coating.


I have a bunch of RECENT articles on applying coatings in this forum group,

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2017-new-car-detailing-how-to-article-by-mike-phillips/

:)
 
So this probably isn’t a lot of help, but from what I can tell the IP2000 (PO91E) hasn’t been carried over to the new names. It’s still PO91E) Final finish (PO85U)is now FF3000 or just 3000.

Now the part you don’t want to hear. The products you have were created prior the beginning of the ceramic clears on many cars now. So they’ll have more trouble on harder clears than menzerna’s newer technology products. The newer ones are the the ones like FG400, SIP (now 2400), Power finish (2200) and 3500 and 3800. Everything I’ve read said they cut better and can finish slightly better.

I’ve not personally used the newer compounds, but I have the exact compounds you do have. Only hard clear coated car I used them on was my Cadillac. IP did mediocre. It cut most minor swirls but left the more moderate stuff. I had to purchase Meguiars M105 as a stronger compound. The FF3000 did a fine job cleaning up any haze from either compound, but I would not count on it to have much cut.

I’ve heard VWs have hard paint so it’s worth a test spot, don’t be surprised if you need to find a more aggressive compound. The Final Finish will likely clean up any marring you have left.

Hope I helped sorry for redundancy and typos. Hard to type on a phone and get kids to bed
 
hollerstiltner said:
So this probably isn’t a lot of help, but from what I can tell the IP2000 (PO91E) hasn’t been carried over to the new names. It’s still PO91E) Final finish (PO85U)is now FF3000 or just 3000.

Now the part you don’t want to hear. The products you have were created prior the beginning of the ceramic clears on many cars now. So they’ll have more trouble on harder clears than menzerna’s newer technology products. The newer ones are the the ones like FG400, SIP (now 2400), Power finish (2200) and 3500 and 3800. Everything I’ve read said they cut better and can finish slightly better.

I’ve not personally used the newer compounds, but I have the exact compounds you do have. Only hard clear coated car I used them on was my Cadillac. IP did mediocre. It cut most minor swirls but left the more moderate stuff. I had to purchase Meguiars M105 as a stronger compound. The FF3000 did a fine job cleaning up any haze from either compound, but I would not count on it to have much cut.

I’ve heard VWs have hard paint so it’s worth a test spot, don’t be surprised if you need to find a more aggressive compound. The Final Finish will likely clean up any marring you have left.

Hope I helped sorry for redundancy and typos. Hard to type on a phone and get kids to bed
Click to expand...
Helps plenty! Was looking for someone who had the same products as me but also knew about the newer formulations. Much appreciated.

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