Getting new car - comments on plan for first detail?

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eyost

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Hi all,

Tomorrow I am taking possession of a new Honda Accord in Champaign color. Here is my plan for the first detail.

1. Wash car with two bucket method.
2. Clay.
3. Apply Pinnacle Paint Cleansing Lotion.
4. Apply Wolfgang High Gloss Paint Sealant.
5. Apply Wolfgang Fuzion.
6. Apply Aquapel on windshield.

Any suggestions on best protection for the interior of the car, namely the plastic parts to protect for shoe scuffs, etc.? Also, any suggestions for protecting the headlights and plastic molding on the exterior of the car?

What are your thoughts on my plan? Any suggestions on which pads to use for applying the cleansing lotion, the hips, and the Fuzion. I will be using a Porter Cable da polisher.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Ed
 
How To Detail Your Brand New Car by Mike Phillips

Just in case there were any other questions you have that you forgot or if you're looking for just some light reading.

To answer your questions, it seems you're in line with AG's brands, so any of their designated interior products should satisfy you (e.g. WG Leather Care Conditioner).

Headlights, there are a few headlight specific sealants (Opti just came out with theres). I just use my KHGS (Klasse High Gloss Sealant) and it's worked fine. Trim, just upkeep on cleaning and you can use things from the Tuff Shine to keep them looking new/protect them.

And as far as pads go, if you're using anything similar to the LC color system, Black/Blue for your sealant/fuzion, and I'm not sure on the cleansing lotion.
 
Prep, Prep, Prep. To get a good start on your polishes, sealant,wax....
 
1. Get a bottle of UIG+ and coat everything on the inside of the car that's plastic, vinyl, or rubber.

2. Drive it home from the dealer and OptiCoat the wheels.

3. Coat all the rubber seals with Gummipflege.

4. If the seats are leather, get a leather coating like CarPro Fabric and Leather on them ASAP. Skip "conditioners".

5. Scotch guard or 303 Fabric Protect the carpets.

6. Check the door jambs. They probably have a ton of grease or no grease.

7. Decontaminate exterior: Trix/IronX followed by clay.

8. Check exterior for defects. Polish as necessary.
 
Congrats!
Hopefully your dealer won't add in what's referred to here as the "DISO" option. (Dealer Installed Swirl Option)

You seem to have the basics covered, and doubtful I can add much to any of Mike Phillip's tutorials.

You appear to have knowledge to stay away from over the counter products. About all I can add is remember to do the least amount of harm, and the least agressive approaches to get the job done.

Good Wash Mitts, Towels go far to reducing user induced swirls, and thus maintainence will be easier, without a need to use more agressive paint correction products, or procedures for a good while.

As for any plastic lenses (headlights-tail lights, etc) try staying away from any products that have abrasives, or harsh cleaners-solvents in them. Something like the WG Sealant should work just fine, or other Sealants such as WOWA's.

Use good treatments for rubber, the seals, the tires.

If your interior is cloth upolstered, other good options might be a fabric guard and/or seat covers. As for factory floor mats, some times they're barely adequate at best. A set of Weather Tech Mats, or similar will offer better protection of the carpeting.

As for Trunk-Cargo Areas, one can often find small remnant rolls of carpeting at a Carpet-Tile Store, and one can custom cut a Protective Mat for not much money invested. Or you may have something laying around.

Be sure to give the vehicle a cursory shakedown inspection yourself, under the hood, fluid levels, etc. I always feel the less visits one needs to make to a dealership, the better. Sometimes it is required though, due to issues that might need service under warrantees.

Best of luck! Mark
 
I've been going through this as well. Picked up a new car myself about 2 weeks ago.

First, I had a paint protection film applied to the front bumper, mirrors, and door edges. I considered the hood and fenders but that's a much more expensive install. The work I had was $500, the whole thing would've ran $1200. But for $500, IMO, it's worth it. You have a very forgiving color so you may not feel the same way, but I just came from a black car with a front bumper that looked like I let some vicious animal chew on it for about an hour so the clear bra was a must-have for me on this car.

Second, I did what you've already been planning: Clayed the car, applied a double coat of sealant (I used M20 for the mild cleaning properties). I applied it head to toe: wheels, wheel wells, chrome trim, head and tail lights, etc. I topped it with a natural wax and it's looking beautiful.

I'd stay away from any rubber dressings for the exterior and instead I just have applied 303 protectant to all the rubber trim. I plan to do this consistently so hopefully in a few years the "black" trim is still black and not grey.

I think most importantly, now is a good time to take a critical eye to your existing products. Are your buckets and grit guards clean? Have you gone through your MFs recently and demoted older ones to non-paint status? Get a new wash mitt/sponge/whatever and demote your current one to wheels and tires.

Also, after each wash, give it a good examination. After a few washes, any flaws in your process should reveal themselves as hints of marring or haze. If you see that, take corrective action.
 
I'd add in a set of weathertech digital fit floor mats, at least for the front. Husky makes them too, just depends what make/model vehicle.
 
encoder said:
I've been going through this as well. Picked up a new car myself about 2 weeks ago.

First, I had a paint protection film applied to the front bumper, mirrors, and door edges. I considered the hood and fenders but that's a much more expensive install. The work I had was $500, the whole thing would've ran $1200. But for $500, IMO, it's worth it. You have a very forgiving color so you may not feel the same way, but I just came from a black car with a front bumper that looked like I let some vicious animal chew on it for about an hour so the clear bra was a must-have for me on this car.

Second, I did what you've already been planning: Clayed the car, applied a double coat of sealant (I used M20 for the mild cleaning properties). I applied it head to toe: wheels, wheel wells, chrome trim, head and tail lights, etc. I topped it with a natural wax and it's looking beautiful.

I'd stay away from any rubber dressings for the exterior and instead I just have applied 303 protectant to all the rubber trim. I plan to do this consistently so hopefully in a few years the "black" trim is still black and not grey.

I think most importantly, now is a good time to take a critical eye to your existing products. Are your buckets and grit guards clean? Have you gone through your MFs recently and demoted older ones to non-paint status? Get a new wash mitt/sponge/whatever and demote your current one to wheels and tires.

Also, after each wash, give it a good examination. After a few washes, any flaws in your process should reveal themselves as hints of marring or haze. If you see that, take corrective action.
Click to expand...

I've always liked M20 Sealant from Meguiars. So much, I bought a case once at a fair price, and turned some buddies onto it. Same with a product years ago called "Race Glaze".

The rest of your advice is wise, better written-explained than I said it.
 
cartman57 said:
I'd add in a set of weathertech digital fit floor mats, at least for the front. Husky makes them too, just depends what make/model vehicle.
Click to expand...

Keep this to yourselves guys, but years ago, I was heading up a Upholstery Shop in an Amtrak Railroad Yard. I had a shop to myself full of tools, and materials.

We had mucho commercial grade carpeting, a short nap, with a foam backing that was quite sturdy, and quite water inpenetrable.

But is was a undesired color, and no bosses wanted this stuff in their offices, and it wasn't applicable to passenger railroad cars.

Hence, it got used for bottom linings of custom made tool fabric sewn bags, and made some mighty good custom floor mats for a few choice folks-friends.

My Tahoe, which I've taken better than the '67 Vette I once owned has three sets of floor mats in it! I ain't kidding!

One can simply make a custom pattern with some newspaper first. get way better coverage than almost any commercial floor mat, and they will protect.

Most carpet places will have such heavy duty commercial grade foam backed carpeting, you use a stick of chaulk to trace your pattern onto the carpet, then have yourself access to a good pair of heavy duty Wiss Shears (or an industrial carpet cutter) to cut to size. They wear like iron. Mark
 
swanicyouth said:
1. Get a bottle of UIG+ and coat everything on the inside of the car that's plastic, vinyl, or rubber.

2. Drive it home from the dealer and OptiCoat the wheels.

3. Coat all the rubber seals with Gummipflege.

4. If the seats are leather, get a leather coating like CarPro Fabric and Leather on them ASAP. Skip "conditioners".

5. Scotch guard or 303 Fabric Protect the carpets.

6. Check the door jambs. They probably have a ton of grease or no grease.

7. Decontaminate exterior: Trix/IronX followed by clay.

8. Check exterior for defects. Polish as necessary.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information. Few questions. What is UIG+? What rubber seals will I have to address? As for the door jams, should I remove grease if I find some?

Thanks,

Ed
 
MarkD51 said:
Congrats!
Hopefully your dealer won't add in what's referred to here as the "DISO" option. (Dealer Installed Swirl Option)

You seem to have the basics covered, and doubtful I can add much to any of Mike Phillip's tutorials.

You appear to have knowledge to stay away from over the counter products. About all I can add is remember to do the least amount of harm, and the least agressive approaches to get the job done.

Good Wash Mitts, Towels go far to reducing user induced swirls, and thus maintainence will be easier, without a need to use more agressive paint correction products, or procedures for a good while.

As for any plastic lenses (headlights-tail lights, etc) try staying away from any products that have abrasives, or harsh cleaners-solvents in them. Something like the WG Sealant should work just fine, or other Sealants such as WOWA's.

Use good treatments for rubber, the seals, the tires.

If your interior is cloth upolstered, other good options might be a fabric guard and/or seat covers. As for factory floor mats, some times they're barely adequate at best. A set of Weather Tech Mats, or similar will offer better protection of the carpeting.

As for Trunk-Cargo Areas, one can often find small remnant rolls of carpeting at a Carpet-Tile Store, and one can custom cut a Protective Mat for not much money invested. Or you may have something laying around.

Be sure to give the vehicle a cursory shakedown inspection yourself, under the hood, fluid levels, etc. I always feel the less visits one needs to make to a dealership, the better. Sometimes it is required though, due to issues that might need service under warrantees.

Best of luck! Mark
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. The car looks great and literally came off the carrier yesterday and they removed the protective stickers yesterday afternoon. When you mentioned to treat the rubber and seals, what would you recommend?

BTW - they tried to sell us the Simoniz paint sealant for 600.00. Sounded similar to Opticoat with a lifetime warranty; it covers interior and exterior. I asked how long it would take and they said about one hour. Sounds like they wouldn't prep it correctly. We opted out.

Ed
 
Do an iron contamination before the claying step. Iron x or similar product.
 
eyost said:
...they tried to sell us the Simoniz paint sealant for 600.00... We opted out.
Click to expand...

Wise decision. There are so many better choices out there if you are looking for an actual "coating" that isn't just an overpriced warranty for the dealer to add profit onto the sale.
 
vegas911gts said:
Do an iron contamination before the claying step. Iron x or similar product.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Should I do the entire car with Iron x, or just the wheels? It seems like a pretty aggressive product, so I am a bit intimidated by it.
 
eyost said:
Thanks. Should I do the entire car with Iron x, or just the wheels? It seems like a pretty aggressive product, so I am a bit intimidated by it.
Click to expand...

The whole car. Just don't let it dry. Make sure it is done outdoors. I can understand being intimidated by it the first time. I was worried that it was going to eat through my clear bra, but the car pro usa dealer assured me that it is very safe to use.
 
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