Glass scratch correction anyone had to do this?

[HellaBroke]

Did a couple YouTube searches and see that it can be done. Just curious as to how everyone else goes about it and the best and fastest (if fastest can even really be used here)
Thanks

 

[rms64]

Check this out - I "favorited" because I thought it was excellent and want to give the process a try sometime. Good luck! :xyxthumbs:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...removal-glass-scratches-carpro-griots-da.html

 

[swanicyouth]

Yes I did it. My glass was fairly bad with tick marks, scratches and haze - and now its clear and scratch free

You only will need 4 things:

1. CarPro Glass Polishing Pads
2. CeriGlass
3. A Griots DA
4. Water in a spray bottle.

If you get these 4 things, there is only one real trick to it:

1. Do not let the polish dry while working it. Keep spraying the glass/polish with your spray bottle.

Here is an example of a before and after. It was really hard to catch the glass defects on camera. However, the windshield was full of tick marks from a previous attempt to fix it. You just have to trust me on that that they are all gone, as I couldn't catch them on camera.

 

[flyinion]

Thanks for the info, I might have to try that stuff. My Jeep has a couple of windows that have a scratch all the way up them where some grit got caught in the felt where the window goes into the door.

 

[HellaBroke]

Awesome thanks for the quick replies! Is this anything like paint at all with if a fingernail catches its too deep?? I thought for sure I would end up having to use a drill or rotary buffer for this!

 

[AutowerxDetailing]

Awesome thanks for the quick replies! Is this anything like paint at all with if a fingernail catches its too deep?? I thought for sure I would end up having to use a drill or rotary buffer for this!

Glass is way thicker than paint which gives you much more room to polish out below surface defects. The thing to keep in mind is if you are trying to perform spot correction on random deep scratches you may encounter a "warping" effect in those spots on the glass.

My best advice would be similar to when polishing paint: do a test spot. See what it will take to get your glass where you want it and replicate that exact technique over the entire glass pane. If the glass is polished uniformly throughout you will not have any distortion and most all defects will be removed.

Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online

 

[cartman57]

Both swanicyouth and BobbyG did excellent write-ups of CarPro http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/52351-carpro-cquartz-dlux-review.html
Amazing results prompted me to try it on a rear window of an SUV for removal of the wiper marks.......all gone!

 

[swanicyouth]

Awesome thanks for the quick replies! Is this anything like paint at all with if a fingernail catches its too deep?? I thought for sure I would end up having to use a drill or rotary buffer for this!

You can do it with a GG6 DA, which I personally think may work
better (not faster), than a rotary for glass correction if you are new to it (me).

Here are my reasons:

1. DAs generate less heat. You want to keep the glass cool to the touch when possible to avoid breaking it or causing any weird optical illusions in it from polishing, as no matter what you use, you will be polishing a single area a long time.

2. Since glass polishes contain abrasives, theoretically it could be possible to be left with something similar to "paint holograms" in the glass, like what would be left on paint when using an abrasive polish with a rotary by a noob.

3. DAs are more "forgiving". Since you will be polishing a long time, and often have only one hand on the buffer and one hand grabbing a water bottle, the possibilty coud exist that your polish could go dry and you micro - mar your glass in one area. I think you have less of a chance of doing this with a DA. Allowing the polish to dry is what causes the glass to micro-mar in my experience. It's somewhat difficult (and tiresome) to juggle the polisher at high speeds (with a pad with little cushion) and a water bottle for an extended period. It's easy to get "sloppy" and loose your perfect technique for a few seconds. I feel you are less likely to mess anything up if the the pad is moving in a random orbit.

4. The bale handle on the Griots does come in handy when your trying to buff and spray water at the same time. It's another place to hold the polisher, as your hands can get tired. I was buffing a single area (about 1/4 the windshield) for up to 20 minutes at a time without stopping or turning off the polisher (on spped 6). I also found it handy to hold the polisher head with one hand, and jamb my wrist under the bale handle when operating the water bottle.

All this is just my experience and 2 cents. For whatever reason, there is not a lot of info out there on glass polishing.

 

[jrs1418]

I dont think you're going to fix any scratches on glass that you can feel with your nail with a DA or rotary. And if you can, you'll be spending TONS of hours on it.

Just correcting swirls on glass with a DA took me hours and they're not 100% corrected. Just like Swanicyouth said you'll be holding your machine at speed 6 trying to spray water for 15-20 mins at a time. I broke my windsheild down into 6 sections and made 8-10 passes per section.

Now, there are glass "leveling" pads.. I've only tried the 4" LC ones and they marred the crap outta my glass. So went to a 4" heavy coarse polishing pad with Ceri glass.

If glass is anything like paint, then while your polishing, particles of the glass can lodge into your pad, so be careful. This is what I think marred my glass. Lots of water and pad cleaning.

 

[swanicyouth]

Now, there are glass "leveling" pads.. I've only tried the 4" LC ones and they marred the crap outta my glass. So went to a 4" heavy coarse polishing pad with Ceri glass.

I spent a decent amount of time with the LC glass pads. Unless there is a "trick" to them I'm not aware of (and they are keeping it secret), those pads are just downright BAD. They also marred the crap out of my glass; and the surface loses polishing material when they get wet.

I actually was one of the three random winners of the contest over on the sister site Autopia. The contest was to post new ideas for LC pads. I posted they need to change these pads so they are like CarPro's. I won some of the new LC CCS "Cool Wave" pads.

I'm not bashing LC. I love their stuff and use their pads exclusively. But in my experience their glass pads are second rate. I just want to post that, so a noob to glass polishing doesn't end up with a marred up windshield like I (and others) did. Also, if we don't give feedback, how would anything ever get improved ?