Glaze: Do they all work the same? My quest for the the best glaze..
- Thread starter cobraa
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Loach
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- May 24, 2014
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Poorboy's Black Hole is an excellent glaze. Great filling abilities, very smooth feel after application, love the smell as well. I've also used CG EZ Creme, but I never tested its ability to fill in swirls, as I mainly used it on cars that were already well maintained and polished. I very much recommend EZ Creme as a great pre-LSP product as well, gave that slick feel that makes applying the LSP an absolute breeze, also a nice grape like smell to it like Black Hole, left a very nice shine.
With either product I don't think you can go wrong - I just wish I had EZ Creme in my arsenal to compare any filling abilities it might have against Black Hole, but for sure the Black Hole glaze fills in light swirling very nicely for me and I continue to use it.
With either product I don't think you can go wrong - I just wish I had EZ Creme in my arsenal to compare any filling abilities it might have against Black Hole, but for sure the Black Hole glaze fills in light swirling very nicely for me and I continue to use it.
HateSwirls
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- Jun 24, 2013
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I've tried a few but always come back to EZ Cream Glaze, I own a black and a red car, both benefit from the glaze,really like the way my finish looks every time I use it, I then top it with a good wax.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
I agree.
Plus the word glaze is probably the most convoluted term used in this industry. Most glazes are actually cleaner/waxes they just use the word "glaze" instead of cleaner/wax on the label.
Did my best to clear up all the confusion in this article...
Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes
:dunno:
GS2011
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- Jan 11, 2012
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:iagree:
Desertnate
Well-known member
- Aug 5, 2013
- 6,238
- 291
I use glazed for my winter prep. I don't have the time to correct the minor defects in my daily drivers only to have my work undone during the harsh winter environment. I'm also not keen on correcting my cars twice a year, even if I do use a very mild polish.
So far I've used Black Hole and really liked it. It gave my car an inky, glossy, deep look and covered all the imperfections really well. I've got a bottle of Amigo now and can't wait to try it out this fall.
So far I've used Black Hole and really liked it. It gave my car an inky, glossy, deep look and covered all the imperfections really well. I've got a bottle of Amigo now and can't wait to try it out this fall.
Black Hole is a good filler. Right after I polish, I don't use it, because the car is mostly swirl free. I use it once some swirls develop that I don't have time to remove. EZ Creme is a good cleaner. I will use this after I polish because it gets the last bit of miscellaneous crap off the finish before I apply sealant. I haven't figured out what Wet Mirror Finish is supposed to do. These are the only 3 glazes I have tried.
Mike@DedicatedPerfection
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- Feb 26, 2011
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The reason Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is a "Show Stopper", is that it is a polish just the same as Menzerna SF4000...
There are no "Glaze" properties in FG.
Hah! Mike was truly right when he said the word "glaze" is too convoluted in the detailing world.
HateSwirls
New member
- Jun 24, 2013
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I have plans to work on my wife's black RAV4 this weekend, after I clay it and before I polish it I'll use Meguiar's #7 then polish it.
I've used it a couple of times on the SS paint on this car, great results, after I polish it I'll then seal it using Wolfgang Paint Sealant then after it cures I'll apply a coat of EZ Cream Glaze then top it with Insulator, BAM, big time shine
I've used it a couple of times on the SS paint on this car, great results, after I polish it I'll then seal it using Wolfgang Paint Sealant then after it cures I'll apply a coat of EZ Cream Glaze then top it with Insulator, BAM, big time shine
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
From what I've seen in the forum world or blogoshpere... trying to establish what a true glaze is and separate it from cleaner/waxes, any wax or paint sealants, will never happen. Kind of like trying to establish what can and cannot be done when it comes to bonding and layering.
Here's what a true glaze is... from this article....
Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes
The most important thing is if it works for you, your paint looks good and you're happy....
The only glaze I ever use is the #7 Show Car Glaze and that's for restoring antique single stage paint because it's the only product like it in the world that's been around as long as single stage paints.
Considering that most people on this forum and in the world have a car with a basecoat/clearcoat paint job it amazes me that this article now has a 1/4 million views....
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
I used the techniques shared in the article above to restore the paint on a car that Wayne Carini had been chasing for over 40 years...
Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips
1953 Hudson Hornet
Here's the before and after pictures. This is a car that Wayne has been chasing since he was 16 years old, that's over 40 years he's been trying to purchase this all original 1953 Hudson Hornet with the original paint.
Wayne asked me to use my method of restoring antique, original paint to preserve the paint on this car and in the process teach his painter and head detailer to do the same.
This was a landmark event in my detailing career and since I'm sending the link to this thread to Wayne I would just like to say,
Thank you Wayne for trusting me with your very beautiful 1954 Hudson Hornet.
Restoring Antique Single Stage Paint all starts with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
#7 is an anomaly in the car detailing "products" world. There's no other product I know of that has endured over time as long as #7. None. except for #3, 5 and as of today, #1
#7 is water soluble so anytime you use it you should coat the paint with something that is NOT water soluble, i.e. a wax or paint sealant.
There's really no one left alive except for maybe Barry Meguiar that knows or remembers any of the history behind the very early products and how Meguiar's Furniture Cleaners and Polishes morphed into Automotive Cleaners and Polishes but suffice to say, as I document in my how-to book, early cars were coated or painted with coatings from the wood furniture industry because there wasn't any auto paint manufactures around back then and that's because we didn't have cars.
So when they started putting shellac, Lacquer and varnish on the wooden part of early cars to keep the wood from rotting and on the metal parts to keep the metal from rusting, it only made sense you could use "Furniture Polish" on a car to clean it up, make it look good and preserve it.
The introduction and progression of #7
It's the only product like it on the market that's been around as long as this thing we call the "car". And that means it's been around as long as single stage automotive paints.
It's main strength now days is for restoring oxidized, dried-out, brittle antique single stage paint like I did for Wayne Carini on his all original 1953 Hudson with the original single stage paint.
I really like Wayne Carine and enjoy working with him because he's the real deal. He's a car guy through and through. I would only do what's was right for his car's antique paint. I explain why in this article,
The Mindset of a Professional Detailer
Rub and Soak - The Saturation Step
And just like I recommend in my major article on how to restore antique paint, early in the morning I rubbed the antique paint down with a heavy saturation of the #7 polishing oils.
Then let the Hudson soak in the #7 oils while I trained Wayne's Painter and Detailer in the art of polishing paint using a Ferrari F430 and a 1959 Corvette for our training cars. Towards the end of the day, after the Hudson soaked in the #7 for around 6-7 hours we then removed the #7 and used Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover and Advanced Finishing Polish to gently and carefully bring the paint back to a clear, high gloss.
Before
Here's the Hudson outside, if you look you'll see Wayne is in the driver's seat moving the car out of where we were filming and into the wash and wax bay.
Dull, oxidized paint. If you look at the bumper that's me taking this pictures.
Rear shot, the 1959 Corvette we're going to use for a training car is to the right...
Dull, oxidized paint...
Same shot from above only I cropped out a 800 pixel section from the full size shot.
Here it is moved into the bay...
To some people, this car doesn't look to bad and in reality it wasn't horrible but it garage kept all of it's life.
It's still oxidized, dried-out and brittle and needs to be approached just the right way or the green top layer will be removed and the black primer will be exposed.
Here's a thin spot where you can see black primer showing through...
Here's some shots showing the oxidation that has occurred over the decades even parked in a garage....
Terrycloth Wash Cloth - This is your Abrasive
In my article, I use and recommend terry cloth wash cloths to apply the #7 and the reason for this is because the nap, that is the tiny little cotton loops will work to not only agitate, loosen and abrade dead paint off the car they also help to really work the oils into the paint.
Microfiber towels would be too gentle. Microfiber towels would however be the right tool to remove the future polish and wax we apply.
Heavy Saturation of the #7 oils
The car is literally soaking in a heavy saturation application of the #7 while we go off to buff out a Ferrari and a Corvette.
I continue to use a single side throughout the entire application of the #7
Later in the day, after we wiped off the #7 that's when I switched over to Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover and Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish. We used the swirl remover for the roof, sides and back of the Hudson. For the front clip however, because the paint was incredibly thin, ONLY Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish was used and it was hand applied ONLY.
I don't blame Wayne for being watchful over the process, one mistake and the original paint would be ruined. The goal here was to PRESERVE the original paint. The last thing Wayne or any car collector would want to do is to repaint this survivor 1953 Hudson Hornet.
Now you can see the paint is turning clear as we bring out the full richness of color...
Machine Polishing
After wiping the Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze oils off the paint THEN I hand rubbed the paint on the hood and front fender using
First - Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover
Second - Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish
Third - Machine applied Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax
Machine = Porter Cable 7424XP and 5.5" Lake Country Flat Pads
Finished!
In this shot you can see Wayne's hand as he's walking down the side of the car inspecting the results and giving the paint a final wipe....
And this my friends is one of the most rewarding pictures I've ever taken. This shot was taken after we finished polishing every square inch of paint and then applying a coat of Souveran Paste Wax.
This is what I'm talking about....
Glazes, cleaner/waxes, polishes.... if it works for you go with it...
Here's what a true glaze is... from this article....
Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes
Hiding Swirls
There's a number of reasons why historically body shops use a glaze on fresh paint to hide swirls. Most body shops are production oriented and perform a limited number of machine buffing steps due to time restrictions and profitability. This would include machine compounding with a wool pad and machine polishing with either a wool finishing pad or a foam polishing or finishing pad, both steps using rotary buffers.
The end results are normally excellent shine but with rotary buffer swirls in the paint, (also called holograms and/or rotary buffer trails), that can be seen in bright light. The glaze is normally hand-applied to fill-in and hide the swirls as hand application is fast and relatively effective as long as the swirls are shallow. This glazing procedure produces a finish that customers will accept at the time of vehicle pick-up. The results are somewhat misleading however because bodyshop glazes are water soluble and as such will wash off after a few car washes or repeated exposure to rainy weather and then the swirls will become visible. This is the standard and accepted practice in the body shop industry.
Note: Because there are no rules or regulations governing the definition or the use of the word glaze, manufactures and sellers of paint care products use the word glaze as a name for all types of products that are not true glazes in the historical sense of the word. Most common is the use of the word glaze in the name of a car wax or paint sealant.
Most of what is on the market that has the word "glaze" on it is not really a glaze but either a polish or a cleaner/wax.There's a number of reasons why historically body shops use a glaze on fresh paint to hide swirls. Most body shops are production oriented and perform a limited number of machine buffing steps due to time restrictions and profitability. This would include machine compounding with a wool pad and machine polishing with either a wool finishing pad or a foam polishing or finishing pad, both steps using rotary buffers.
The end results are normally excellent shine but with rotary buffer swirls in the paint, (also called holograms and/or rotary buffer trails), that can be seen in bright light. The glaze is normally hand-applied to fill-in and hide the swirls as hand application is fast and relatively effective as long as the swirls are shallow. This glazing procedure produces a finish that customers will accept at the time of vehicle pick-up. The results are somewhat misleading however because bodyshop glazes are water soluble and as such will wash off after a few car washes or repeated exposure to rainy weather and then the swirls will become visible. This is the standard and accepted practice in the body shop industry.
Note: Because there are no rules or regulations governing the definition or the use of the word glaze, manufactures and sellers of paint care products use the word glaze as a name for all types of products that are not true glazes in the historical sense of the word. Most common is the use of the word glaze in the name of a car wax or paint sealant.
The most important thing is if it works for you, your paint looks good and you're happy....
The only glaze I ever use is the #7 Show Car Glaze and that's for restoring antique single stage paint because it's the only product like it in the world that's been around as long as single stage paints.
Considering that most people on this forum and in the world have a car with a basecoat/clearcoat paint job it amazes me that this article now has a 1/4 million views....
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
I used the techniques shared in the article above to restore the paint on a car that Wayne Carini had been chasing for over 40 years...
Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips
[video=youtube_share;VcdNIJzRKC0"]Mike Phillips and Wayne Carini on "Chasing...[/video]
1953 Hudson Hornet
Here's the before and after pictures. This is a car that Wayne has been chasing since he was 16 years old, that's over 40 years he's been trying to purchase this all original 1953 Hudson Hornet with the original paint.
Wayne asked me to use my method of restoring antique, original paint to preserve the paint on this car and in the process teach his painter and head detailer to do the same.
This was a landmark event in my detailing career and since I'm sending the link to this thread to Wayne I would just like to say,
Thank you Wayne for trusting me with your very beautiful 1954 Hudson Hornet.
Restoring Antique Single Stage Paint all starts with Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
#7 is an anomaly in the car detailing "products" world. There's no other product I know of that has endured over time as long as #7. None. except for #3, 5 and as of today, #1
#7 is water soluble so anytime you use it you should coat the paint with something that is NOT water soluble, i.e. a wax or paint sealant.
There's really no one left alive except for maybe Barry Meguiar that knows or remembers any of the history behind the very early products and how Meguiar's Furniture Cleaners and Polishes morphed into Automotive Cleaners and Polishes but suffice to say, as I document in my how-to book, early cars were coated or painted with coatings from the wood furniture industry because there wasn't any auto paint manufactures around back then and that's because we didn't have cars.
So when they started putting shellac, Lacquer and varnish on the wooden part of early cars to keep the wood from rotting and on the metal parts to keep the metal from rusting, it only made sense you could use "Furniture Polish" on a car to clean it up, make it look good and preserve it.
The introduction and progression of #7
It's the only product like it on the market that's been around as long as this thing we call the "car". And that means it's been around as long as single stage automotive paints.
It's main strength now days is for restoring oxidized, dried-out, brittle antique single stage paint like I did for Wayne Carini on his all original 1953 Hudson with the original single stage paint.
I really like Wayne Carine and enjoy working with him because he's the real deal. He's a car guy through and through. I would only do what's was right for his car's antique paint. I explain why in this article,
The Mindset of a Professional Detailer
Rub and Soak - The Saturation Step
And just like I recommend in my major article on how to restore antique paint, early in the morning I rubbed the antique paint down with a heavy saturation of the #7 polishing oils.
Then let the Hudson soak in the #7 oils while I trained Wayne's Painter and Detailer in the art of polishing paint using a Ferrari F430 and a 1959 Corvette for our training cars. Towards the end of the day, after the Hudson soaked in the #7 for around 6-7 hours we then removed the #7 and used Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover and Advanced Finishing Polish to gently and carefully bring the paint back to a clear, high gloss.
Before
Here's the Hudson outside, if you look you'll see Wayne is in the driver's seat moving the car out of where we were filming and into the wash and wax bay.
Dull, oxidized paint. If you look at the bumper that's me taking this pictures.
Rear shot, the 1959 Corvette we're going to use for a training car is to the right...
Dull, oxidized paint...
Same shot from above only I cropped out a 800 pixel section from the full size shot.
Here it is moved into the bay...
To some people, this car doesn't look to bad and in reality it wasn't horrible but it garage kept all of it's life.
It's still oxidized, dried-out and brittle and needs to be approached just the right way or the green top layer will be removed and the black primer will be exposed.
Here's a thin spot where you can see black primer showing through...
Here's some shots showing the oxidation that has occurred over the decades even parked in a garage....
Terrycloth Wash Cloth - This is your Abrasive
In my article, I use and recommend terry cloth wash cloths to apply the #7 and the reason for this is because the nap, that is the tiny little cotton loops will work to not only agitate, loosen and abrade dead paint off the car they also help to really work the oils into the paint.
Microfiber towels would be too gentle. Microfiber towels would however be the right tool to remove the future polish and wax we apply.
Heavy Saturation of the #7 oils
The car is literally soaking in a heavy saturation application of the #7 while we go off to buff out a Ferrari and a Corvette.
I continue to use a single side throughout the entire application of the #7
Later in the day, after we wiped off the #7 that's when I switched over to Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover and Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish. We used the swirl remover for the roof, sides and back of the Hudson. For the front clip however, because the paint was incredibly thin, ONLY Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish was used and it was hand applied ONLY.
I don't blame Wayne for being watchful over the process, one mistake and the original paint would be ruined. The goal here was to PRESERVE the original paint. The last thing Wayne or any car collector would want to do is to repaint this survivor 1953 Hudson Hornet.
Now you can see the paint is turning clear as we bring out the full richness of color...
Machine Polishing
After wiping the Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze oils off the paint THEN I hand rubbed the paint on the hood and front fender using
First - Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover
Second - Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish
Third - Machine applied Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax
Machine = Porter Cable 7424XP and 5.5" Lake Country Flat Pads
Finished!
In this shot you can see Wayne's hand as he's walking down the side of the car inspecting the results and giving the paint a final wipe....
And this my friends is one of the most rewarding pictures I've ever taken. This shot was taken after we finished polishing every square inch of paint and then applying a coat of Souveran Paste Wax.
This is what I'm talking about....
Glazes, cleaner/waxes, polishes.... if it works for you go with it...