Glossy (ceramic optimizing/safe) drying aid/quick detailer?

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cardude2000

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I usually use meguirs et al but had wife’s car coated with gteqniq EXO and am not sure what to use. Really going for some layering as well as gloss/pop.

Thanks!
 
These are what I use or have used and they all work well on coated surfaces.

CarPro Ech20 at 1:20 - Won't leave that much in terms of protection but will leave a slick and glossy finish. Works well as a drying aid.

CarPro Elixir - Quick detailer that leaves protection behind. Works well as a drying aid.

Shine Supply Throttle - Works best on a dry surface rather than a drying aid. But leaves a nice shine and the slickness is the slickness from the actual coating and not the QD. Does not leave SiO2 protection behind.
 
If looking to layer make sure to use topper/sio2 sealant. I like Polish Angel spritz’s, kamikaze Overcoat, and Shine Supply Clutch. Will try IGL PREMIER next as its gaining popularity and seems to work well.i top every 3-4 months.

Second the Ech20 or elixir. I mix the Clutch with the Ech20 at 3oz/3oz in a 32oz bottle filling rest with distilled water. Adds slickness while drying and leaves a nice gloss.


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Ok so polish angel.

What am I dealing with here? For $70 this can’t ‘just’ be a drying aid.

Would I use it AFTER a traditional wash and drying aid to boost shine?
 
cardude2000 said:
Ok so polish angel.

What am I dealing with here? For $70 this can’t ‘just’ be a drying aid.

Would I use it AFTER a traditional wash and drying aid to boost shine?
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I would use it after a traditional wash/dry. They can be used as drying aids but treat them as liquid gold and only use small amounts when dry.
 
Use like a sealant. Buy Ech20 or elixir for drying aid. I mix my own “elixir up.


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I literally just use D156. A gallon is, like, $33. Either that or I've used DG Rinseless wash mixed as Quick Detailer, but D156 does a fine job. Otherwise all the SiO2 stuff is super over-priced and doesn't really do much. I say trust your coating. If your coating alone lasts 2 years, what's the benefit to actually extending its life an additional 3 months or so? By that time it'll be so contaminated that it's ready for a re-do any way.
 
I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.
 
conman1395 said:
I literally just use D156. A gallon is, like, $33. Either that or I've used DG Rinseless wash mixed as Quick Detailer, but D156 does a fine job. Otherwise all the SiO2 stuff is super over-priced and doesn't really do much. I say trust your coating. If your coating alone lasts 2 years, what's the benefit to actually extending its life an additional 3 months or so? By that time it'll be so contaminated that it's ready for a re-do any way.
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The consensus negative of D156 on top vs. SiO2 toppers would be a perceived reduction in beading and self cleaning. If those are OK by the owner then they should go for it.
 
PaulMys said:
I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.
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Depending on what kind of prof you want. But Budgetplan excessive testing with coatings on fleet vehicals where he works. Has coatings going on for 2years. I have yet not noticed on a domestic forum where Essence and 2 layers of CQUK the old version has done less of 2 years. They will not be performing as day one and depending on the mileage and the environment you live in and maintance. It's a difference to how well they holds up. If it was a new kid on the block I may be more in doubt. But coatings have been around for longer than 2 years know. And if it would be snake oil it would be a massive speaking about it. Then if it's not for you personal preference to use a coating it's okay. As there are different ways to protect and maintain a cars paint. With so many consumer coatings that have been sold it would be a big noise if it's not living up to the longevity of them. The scratch resistant is one of the noise from those who have had to high of expectations from that part. And there is a big misstake on the marketing about coatings IMO.
 
PaulMys said:
I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.
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Don't know how to prove it other than after cleaning the winter goo off of wifes winter driver, decided to skip redoing this year as the surface still looked good and was shedding water in a manner which is to my liking.

Coating was applied in October 2016 but perhaps not typical usage of vehicle as it's only traveled about 17k miles since then; just sits outside for the most part Apri thru November, short trips only December thru March.

Had fully intended to redo but after Spring cleanup just decided "Well, that's still working for me...".

FWIW, same coating on my car is nearing the end (and at the end in the typical areas) after about 21 months, 38k miles. Always garaged at night but 70 mile round trip daily commute (90% freeway). After Spring cleanup you could just tell that it's time is drawing to a close...just not working for me in all areas anymore.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Don't know how to prove it other than after cleaning the winter goo off of wifes winter driver, decided to skip redoing this year as the surface still looked good and was shedding water in a manner which is to my liking.

Coating was applied in October 2016 but perhaps not typical usage of vehicle as it's only traveled about 17k miles since then; just sits outside for the most part Apri thru November, short trips only December thru March.
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How does that paint feel when you do a baggie test?
 
PaulMys said:
I would love to see actual proof of a coating lasting 2 years.

Topped, Spritzed, Chopped or Whipped.
Click to expand...

Best way to tell is first-hand. I think you'll be impressed. FWIW, contaminants stick to coatings and just using a light touch with a Nano Mitt will pull them off without marring. just go much slower than you would doing a base-vehicle. Then it it with some type of coating topper and you'll see the hydrophobic property comes back pretty well.

I share this as I've had customers come back with cars that don't appear to be sheeting/beading as they were when the coating was first applied. Natural, obviously but then still a shame. 9/10 times it's due to contaminants. One never really knows though how they care for the vehicle. They could be washing it with harsh chemicals and doing damage too, thus why first-hand is best.
 
Eldorado2k said:
How does that paint feel when you do a baggie test?
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To be quite honest, never occurred to me to give it a try. Since the surface was still exhibiting very strong evidence of that which I seek in a coating, it is a completely inconsequential issue for me what the surface feels like when my hand is in a baggie. The surface feels smooth, glass-like and positively delightful when I run my bare fingers over it and, at the risk of being labeled a detailing heretic, I really don't care what it feels like w/ the baggie test. Kinda like the "If a tree falls in a forest and nobody is around to hear it, does it really make a sound" thing.

Others may consider that an important issue but I guess I'm just not one of them. If the car is still exhibiting the self cleaning & hydrophobic tendencies that make coatings appealing to me, what goes on at a 'microscopic' level is of little concern in my world.

As Bridget Fonda said in the movie Point of No Return, "I never did mind about the little things." and to me, this is a little thing. But then again, my 2-bucket wash only really involves one bucket and I always do the wheels last so maybe I just like to be a bit 'different' (i.e. 'lazy').
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
To be quite honest, never occurred to me to give it a try. Since the surface was still exhibiting very strong evidence of that which I seek in a coating, it is a completely inconsequential issue for me what the surface feels like when my hand is in a baggie. The surface feels smooth, glass-like and positively delightful when I run my bare fingers over it and, at the risk of being labeled a detailing heretic, I really don't care what it feels like w/ the baggie test. Kinda like the "If a tree falls in a forest and nobody is around to hear it, does it really make a sound" thing.

Others may consider that an important issue but I guess I'm just not one of them. If the car is still exhibiting the self cleaning & hydrophobic tendencies that make coatings appealing to me, what goes on at a 'microscopic' level is of little concern in my world.

As Bridget Fonda said in the movie Point of No Return, "I never did mind about the little things." and to me, this is a little thing. But then again, my 2-bucket wash only really involves one bucket and I always do the wheels last so maybe I just like to be a bit 'different' (i.e. 'lazy').
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Paint can feel smooth, bead water, and seem easy to clean, but contaminants can gradually creep up and before you know it a vehicles paint is far from what it could be.

c0559a26f3ef4b323e12499d75cebcd0.jpg
 
Eldorado2k said:
Paint can feel smooth, bead water, and seem easy to clean, but contaminants can gradually creep up and before you know it a vehicles paint is far from what it could be.

c0559a26f3ef4b323e12499d75cebcd0.jpg
Click to expand...

I won't dispute the point as it is certainly valid but until it becomes an situation where appearance and performance become a noticeable issue, it remains irrelevant to me. Now on my daily driver where the coating is near the end of it's useful life, it's quite apparent with regards to appearance and performance and hence, is a call to action for me. As for the other car, if it ain't broke, I ain't fixing it....and fortunately I get to determine just when 'broke' is.
 
If I recall, southern Cali can put a lot of contaminants on a car in short time. Here in the northeast I barely get any roughness to clay away after a year (that’s me, I’m not near an airport, train tracks, etc.). It’s easy to overlook claying if there is not a lot of contaminants causing negative performance to the paint.
 
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