Thank you Mike!
I sent the 6 inch back, and I ended up picking up a bunch of 5.5 inch LC CCS pads.
Good deal. I always feel kind of bad when I know someone has bought 6" or 6"5" pads, any brand for a Porter Cable polisher or even some of the other weaker random orbital polishers on the market because I know if a person is just starting out they are going to have a bad experience trying to remove swirls simply because these types of tools cannot maintain good pad rotation - except on only the flattest of panels.
It took too many decades for companies to catch up with the info on forums like this to finally introduce THIN foam pads. Here's an article I wrote that showcases the currently availabl options.
5.5" SUPER THIN FOAM PAD OPTIONS for your Dual Action Polisher
From left to right
Lake Country 5.5" ThinPro foam pads
Griot's Garage BOSS 5.5" foam pads
Meguiar's 5.5" foam discs
ANY of the above pads will work better than THICK larger foam pads. It's just a physics thing.
Based on what you told me last night, I placed another order for 6 ThinPro pads (3 Orange, 3 White).
I'm still only using the 3D, so I think will start with White LC CCS/3D and work my way to Orange Thinpro/3D if I need to.
That's a good approach. Chances are you'll find best correction and overall results using the orange pads. The orange pads, while a cutting foam pad are not overly aggressive PLUS remember that as a pad gets wet with product it becomes softer and less aggressive.
A good rule of thumb is to test and start with foam "polishing" pads first and see if they'll get the job done. If not, you can always get more aggressive and switch to a foam "cutting" pad. The issue is, on softer paints foam cutting pads, just like microfiber pads, can and will micro-mar the paint.
The word micro-mar is a kind fluffy way of saying scratch.
So aggressive pads will scratch the paint.
If the goal is to go around a car ONE TIME using a one-step cleaner/wax like the 3D HD Speed, if your pad is micro-marring the paint and due to this you have to re-do the car, that is go around the car a second time with a less aggressive pad to remove the micro-marring from the first pad. This is no longer a one-step process but now a two-step process. You defeat the concept of doing a one-step.
This is why you TEST first. Then choose the type of pads for the hardness or softness of the paint in front of you and move forward. I cover this in my article here,
Good rule of thumb when using an AIO - stick with foam polishing pads by Mike Phillips
I know I need A LOT of pads ( in particular if I'm trying to figure out the right combination of products that I need ), but in reality I think with my first job, I am going to focus on strictly the hood, roof, and trunk, as these seem to be the problem areas.
Good plan. In my how-to book, under the chapter "Getting Started", if I remember correctly I recommend for someone new to machine polishing to JUST tackle the hood, roof or trunk lid. Start small. By doing this, even from start to finish you'll be into the project for about 3-4 hours.
Here's what will happen,
1: If using good abrasive technology you'll have a GREAT experience as you see the paint on your car transform from neglected to respected.
2: You'll get a really good feel for "timing" as in how long it takes to do one panel and then how long it's going to take to do an entire car.
3: You'll obtain a great sense of accomplishment and satisfaction - and this important as it will give you the re-enforcement and excitement to jump back in and finish the car.
4: You'll get all of the above without a significant other or kids complaining you were in the garage all day working on your car. Been there, done that. Other people that are not familiar with the process don't know how much work and time that goes into this thing we call detailing.
In particular the hood had some work done at a paint & body shop and I have noticed that while water beads on the hood, it does not run off, and in the glaring sun, I can see holograms from when they must have used a rotary buffer (learned that in one of your vids).
That's the norm for body shops. Sad but true.
The 3D Speed and any free spinning random orbital polisher will remove the holograms. Too bad that body shop owners don't read this forum, I just threw them a free bone as to how to put out higher quality work and it's really not that hard.
I also picked up some 3M tape to mark off my test spot, and some Snappy's cleaner for the pads afterwards.
That will work.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Taping off plastic trim is faster and easier than coming back later when you're tired and trying to scrub off compound, polish or cleaner/wax splatter wit a toothbrush.
Be sure to take some good before pictures. You can never go back in time to get them once you put the pad to the paint.
:buffing:
