Guy with DA and OCD and WW black paint - needs help!

flip7f

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I have a '16 VW GTIDeep Blue Pearl, which because of improper hand washing - got some light swirls.


Then I thought a DApolisher (I got a Torqx) with Hexlogic orange/white/Black pads as well as CGV32/34/36/38 will bring back the beauty of my car…. Well not exactly, so I needsome help and guidance.

The swirls wereminor, hardly visible - not deep in any case.

I probable did 4-6passes with each below.

After watching somevideos and reading some articles I tested with the white pad with V38 I guessspeed 5 - that did not remove the swirls.
Then I went down toV36 and orange - that did not remove the swirls either
Then went down anotch to V32 with orange pad. - ok, that did removed the swirls to some extent - maybe 75%

However aftercleaning the compound I noticed a barely visible haze (or cloudiness - I assumethey are the same??)
Then I went to V36followed by V38 assuming that will take care of those. It is likely I usedthose on an orange pad and then applied wax by hand+MF wipe off

So after all this Istill have a barely visible cloudiness/haze which irritates me. I even feelafter about a week it is more visible

Being where I am Ineed your help and advice.
I read that Menzernadoes good job on German paint.

What would you gustsuggest for me?
I read in the forum that Menzerna 400 followed by 3800 workedwell on some Audi A7.

Do I need to go down to 400 or I can just do the 3800.Please also suggest what pads shall I use.

Thank you inadvance.
 
Hey op I have the same car lol
6cb1872315a5f73fabfcee1f4d449a22.jpg

ff61825844bb711315d4096f5071f9ad.jpg


Probably just need v36 followed by v38. Unless the car was hammered no need really for V32 or 34.

It's extremely easy and possibly to gloss it up with what you have, no need for the 400 imo.

unless the paint was really punished, a pass or two with v36 and a orange foam pad followed by v38 and a white pad is how I would go. Easy and simple.
 
Then I thought a DApolisher (I got a Torqx) with Hexlogic orange/white/Black pads as well as CGV32/34/36/38 will bring back the beauty of my car….

First question? Did you mark your backing plate so your eyes could easily see if the pad was rotating?

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


MarkYourBackingPlate01.jpg





However after cleaning the compound I noticed a barely visible haze (or cloudiness - I assume they are the same??)

My guess is what you're seeing is called micro-marring. If you read the forum long enough you'll see me always telling people the most important factor when it comes to polishing paint is the abrasive technology. You'll find lots of people that will disagree and say it's technique.

I'll stick to abrasive technology trumping technique all day long. See where I'm wrong here,

POLL - What's the number one most important factor when it comes to polishing paint? :laughing:




What would you suggest for me?

I read in the forum that Menzerna 400 followed by 3800 worked well on some Audi A7.

Do I need to go down to 400 or I can just do the 3800.Please also suggest what pads shall I use.

Thank you in advance.


I would highly recommend getting both the 400 and the 3800 as that way you'll have a great compound and a great polish that will tackle ANY paint system with any pad and any tool and technique will be the least of your worries.

As for pads, the last time I used the Torx polisher I found the best pads for maximum pad rotation would be THIN foam pads, not thick foam pads.

The pad MUST ROTATE in order to remove paint. You remove defects like swirls, scratches and micro-marring by removing a little paint. I've also seen guy claim that a free spinning tool can remove paint with ONLY oscillation (which shows up as a pad vibrating against the paint), and no rotation but I don't believe and I've never seen any guru prove it on black paint.

So if you want to get the most out of the Torx polisher get one of the pads I show in the article below...


5.5" SUPER THIN FOAM PAD OPTIONS for your Dual Action Polisher


Super thin 5.5" foam buffing pads

watermark.php









And be sure you have a 5" backing plate

5” Backing Plates Options for Dual Action Polishers

5” Backing Plates
watermark.php








Hope that helps...


:)
 
From this article...


The difference between Rotary Buffer Swirls, Cobweb Swirls, Micro-Marring, DA Haze & Tick Marks





Micro-Marring - Tick-Marks - DA-Haze

These three terms are pretty much the accepted terms for a scratch pattern left in some paints from the oscillating and rotating action from a compound or polish and a buffing pad when applied using a DA Polisher.

Unlike Cobweb swirls or Rotary Buffer Swirls, the scratch pattern instilled by a dual action polisher is made up of millions of tiny scratches, some are curved or circular but some are straight, like a small tick mark you would make with a pencil if you were keeping track of a count of some type.

Tick Marks are a sign that either the paint is on the soft side, so easily scratched or the pad and compound or polish you're using are too aggressive to finish out without leaving a mark.

In most cases Tick Marks can be removed by re-polishing with a different pad and product combination.

MicromarringTickMarks01.jpg


MicromarringTickMarks02.jpg



:)
 
Wow, that's fast help and support!
Thank you!

To answer Mike first: yes, i did mark the 5" backing plate, and controlled it's rotation (by force on DA) about once per one second or two (+/-)

What worries me is that my surface does not look micro-marred as in the pics you shared. Is much more subtle than that. I would say slightly cloudy. I will try getting a picture of it

@idriveblackcars - nice looking car.

What wax/ sealant did you use on top of the v38?
 
I would highly recommend getting both the 400 and the 3800 as that way you'll have a great compound and a great polish that will tackle ANY paint system with any pad and any tool and technique will be the least of your worries.

As for pads, the last time I used the Torx polisher I found the best pads for maximum pad rotation would be THIN foam pads, not thick foam pads.

The pad MUST ROTATE in order to remove paint. You remove defects like swirls, scratches and micro-marring by removing a little paint. I've also seen guy claim that a free spinning tool can remove paint with ONLY oscillation (which shows up as a pad vibrating against the paint), and no rotation but I don't believe and I've never seen any guru prove it on black paint.

And be sure you have a 5" backing plate



^^ home run on that advice. good news for the OP is you've completed the school of hard knocks without any harm done. follow the above and the joy you'll find afterwards will be quite rewarding and will make all the other frustrations you've experienced go away.

Looking forward to seeing the your results.

My only other advice would be to skip waxes and sealants and once fully corrected you just go put a coating on it. It will certainly help in terms of future micro marring that may and will likely pop up. Ask me how I know.
 
Hi! Welcome to AutoGeekOnline! Congrats on the new car!

Plenty of great information given.

Yes, Menzerna LOVES German paint.
 
What worries me is that my surface does not look micro-marred as in the pics you shared. Is much more subtle than that.


The pictures I shared are what you could call


Extreme Micro-Marring


Most micro-marring will simply look like black paint is kind of cloudy.


It's easy to test, simply take a section of black paint that is not been polished, place a tape-line down and then do a little polishing with any compound or polish and any clean foam polishing pad on a dual action polisher. The strip the section of paint with some glass cleaner or diluted IPA or Mineral Spirits, or Panel Wipe, etc. and then inspect with a strong swirl finder light.

Most glass cleaners are about 10% Isopropyl Alcohol so these work fine.



I test compounds and polishes often enough and over the years to have a number of tests all dialed-in for testing purposes.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ailing-questions/106298-compound-testing.html

Compound_Testing_01.jpg





:)
 
That spot in the back on the right is an aggressive compound Mike is not letting out of the bag.
 
My MK6 in Deep Black Pearl says, Hello!

View attachment 53972

I found the Blackfire SRC Compound on a white Lake Country Flat Pad works wonders for most swirls. It is a very mild compound, more like may of the polishes categorized as swirl removers here and it finishes down LSP ready without needing a finishing polish if you don't want to take a second polishing step.
 
I'm curious about CG V32, how does it compare to Menz 400 in cut and gloss?
 
I have 2 other noob questions. Can claying be skipped if surface is really smooth to the touch from previous polishing about 2 weeks ago?
Second question what pads should i use with menzerna 400 and 3800? I have orange white and black in hand
Thanks

Sent from JB1 :)
 
I have 2 other noob questions. Can claying be skipped if surface is really smooth to the touch from previous polishing about 2 weeks ago?
Second question what pads should i use with menzerna 400 and 3800? I have orange white and black in hand
Thanks

Sent from JB1 :)

1. Put your hand in thin plastic bag and see if surface still feels smooth when running fingers over it. If so, not likely a need to clay.
2. Orange will work with FG400, white and/or black will work w/ 3800 depending on level of defects left in paint. White = more cut, black = nearly no cut.
 
I have 2 other noob questions. Can claying be skipped if surface is really smooth to the touch from previous polishing about 2 weeks ago?
Second question what pads should i use with menzerna 400 and 3800? I have orange white and black in hand
Thanks

Sent from JB1 :)

You won't likely have to clay but as noted, do the baggy test to be sure. In terms of pads, Orange for the 400 and white with the 3800. Also be aware that you'll need to change out pads if you are going to do the car all in one sitting. You'll need 5-6 orange an likely 3-4 white ones.
 
You won't likely have to clay but as noted, do the baggy test to be sure. In terms of pads, Orange for the 400 and white with the 3800. Also be aware that you'll need to change out pads if you are going to do the car all in one sitting. You'll need 5-6 orange an likely 3-4 white ones.
Is an ipa wipedown needed after menz 3800? I read that most likely I will marr the paint and on black will be noticeable.
After finishing with 3800 i am planning a meg M20 glaze and followed by a meg wax. Is this going to be ok? I am looking for decent results at this moment as my technique is still to be improved.



Now I'm waiting for pads to arrive and some milder weather in TX before my next journey.

Thanks for all your help. It's one of the nicest communities I've been part of.

Sent from JB1 :)
 
Meguiar's M20 is a cleaner wax type product. More like a cleaner sealant as it is synthetic. You could actually stop at M20. No need for an IPA as the cleaners in the product will remove anything previously applied to it.
 
At a minimum, you should strip the paint (with IPA or another panel wipe) after your test spot with 3800 to verify that you have actually removed the haze in question and not just masked it with the oils in 3800. After that, I would say it's not necessary based on your other product selections.
 
At a minimum, you should strip the paint (with IPA or another panel wipe) after your test spot with 3800 to verify that you have actually removed the haze in question and not just masked it with the oils in 3800. After that, I would say it's not necessary based on your other product selections.
View attachment 54223View attachment 54224View attachment 54225

So here are a few pics after the work. Pretty nice. Thanks for help
I used menz 3800 on a white pad afterc claying, followed by meg M20

Sent from JB1 :)
 
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