Gyeon vs. GTechnic which do you prefer.

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Lamented

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Can’t decide what brand to go with. Looking for opinions from people who used both.
Have you experienced better results with one, ease of use etc.
looking at the whole line of products.
Thanks
 
Dan Tran said:
Curious, will you be using these products professionally or as an enthusiast?


Also, what made you narrow it down to these, two brands?

Dan Tran

High Quality Car Detailing at the Comfort of Your Own Home
Click to expand...

They will be just for me. I know there is more budget friendly products on the market.
I like the idea of using the same brand products since they were designed to work together.

Any other info would be greatly appreciated.
 
I personally like working with the Gtech a little more than the Gyeon. But the slickness of the Syncro kit is hard to top. This spring I did my Car with Syncro and leather shield on my leather. This weekend I did a F150 that my son just got and it pretty much is all Gtechnic. Coated with CSL/ExoV4 glass with G1 on the windshield and G5 on the side glass I1 on the carpet T1 on the tires.

With leftover products I also did my wagon with CSL on the paint topped with Skin the vinyl got EXOV3 just tyo see how skin and CSL work as a pair which if could be purchased separately would be my coating of choice.

Earlier this spring I did some testing of toppers on coatings and used CSL and a base coat on the drivers side and trunk lid with Mohs on the passenger side top. Here are a couple pictures I took at a little over 4 months of how clean each stayed. To me as far as being hydrophobic The skin is noticeable better even tho I haven't seen how EXOv4 does since I just used it last Sunday.

Test%20Hood.jpg~original

Roof%20Test.jpg
 
I know you are looking to stick with one line but what products are you actually looking to get?
 
Ancient1 said:
I personally like working with the Gtech a little more than the Gyeon. But the slickness of the Syncro kit is hard to top. This spring I did my Car with Syncro and leather shield on my leather. This weekend I did a F150 that my son just got and it pretty much is all Gtechnic. Coated with CSL/ExoV4 glass with G1 on the windshield and G5 on the side glass I1 on the carpet T1 on the tires.

With leftover products I also did my wagon with CSL on the paint topped with Skin the vinyl got EXOV3 just tyo see how skin and CSL work as a pair which if could be purchased separately would be my coating of choice.

Earlier this spring I did some testing of toppers on coatings and used CSL and a base coat on the drivers side and trunk lid with Mohs on the passenger side top. Here are a couple pictures I took at a little over 4 months of how clean each stayed. To me as far as being hydrophobic The skin is noticeable better even tho I haven't seen how EXOv4 does since I just used it last Sunday.

Test%20Hood.jpg~original

Roof%20Test.jpg
Click to expand...

You nailed it. That test panel is a thing of beauty.

Stupid question but what the heck is “booster”?
 
If yoy want to see how they react to water here is a edited clip Idid at the 1st wash and was the reason I used syncro on my car, syncro is skin on mohs.

 
The Guz said:
I know you are looking to stick with one line but what products are you actually looking to get?
Click to expand...

Interested in the interior products. As far as coatings go. I’m thinking my best bet would be Can Coat. I would love to try a better coating but I have no shade to apply it.
 
Nice panel test, Ancient1!

Looks like Syncro really beads up -- and that's no so good in my mind. Looks like it is the dirtiest panel -- or any panel with Skin on it. But, it clearly acts differently on your water and drying demo.
 
If you are looking into interior check out the Gyeon Fabric Coat. Its expensive but works amazing. I have used it on a couple clients vehicles and have had amazing results. Check out the hashtag on instagram for some good videos of it working. I think I paid like almost $60 for a bottle of it. I am pretty sure that it is ceramic based, but not positive. I like the Gtechniq C2v3 liquid crystal as a really good spray sealant. I use it and the Gyeon Pure as a spray sealant. I have applied the MOHS to a few vehicles and my 2017 F-150 and absolutely love it. It is fairly easy to apply but I learned its a must have proper lighting while applying it as with any coating. I use Gyeon Prep all of the time when I polish before applying a wax or sealant. I love the smell of it and it works very good. Gyeon also has really good soaps for foam guns.
 
Ancient1 said:
If yoy want to see how they react to water here is a edited clip Idid at the 1st wash and was the reason I used syncro on my car, syncro is skin on mohs.

Click to expand...

Why does it look like your foam cannon is filled with skim milk instead of car shampoo? Is it supposed to be like that? If so, that’s a bit mind boggling. Maybe it’s just me, but I’d be frustrated to no end if my foam cannon worked like that.

I can’t get over the foam cannon part. Lol. What in the world kind of soap is in that bottle?
 
Lamented said:
Interested in the interior products. As far as coatings go. I’m thinking my best bet would be Can Coat. I would love to try a better coating but I have no shade to apply it.
Click to expand...

Interior wise Gyeon Leather Coat, Leather Shield and Preserve are all great products. I've used all three of them.

Gyeon CanCoat is a good place to start. Great product to work with. Good performance from it.

Gyeon Syncro is easy to use and has been performing well in the 7 months it has been on my dad's car. Gyeon MOHS goes on and off easily. As does the topper skin.

Gyeon Trim and Rim are also easy to use and have been performing well.

Gyeon Tire Coating is a good tire product. Leaves a matte finish as it is not the glossiest tire dressing.

Gyeon Bathe is nice but it is not cost effective. Bathe Essence is the latest shampoo and I am not overwhelmed by it. Seems to watered down and I have to use the same dilution ratio as Bathe to get decent performance from it.

From GTechniq C6 Matte Dash is nice.

Gtechniq C4 trim coating is easy to use. Similar performance to Gyeon Trim.

GTechniq C5 wheel armour is easy to use like Gyeon Rim. Gyeon Rim is more hydrophobic. Some choose to use Exo on top of C5 to add more hydrophobic properties.

Crystal Serum Light is easy to use. Goes on and off easy. Similar to Gyeon Mohs. I find CSL to be slightly more hydrophobic.

Exo is not as user friendly as CSL. I speak to V3 and not V4 that just came out. It's hydrophobic properties are pretty nice.

GTechniq Panel wipe is probably the strongest of the panel wipes on the markets.

I hope this helps.
 
Ancient1 said:
I personally like working with the Gtech a little more than the Gyeon. But the slickness of the Syncro kit is hard to top. This spring I did my Car with Syncro and leather shield on my leather. This weekend I did a F150 that my son just got and it pretty much is all Gtechnic. Coated with CSL/ExoV4 glass with G1 on the windshield and G5 on the side glass I1 on the carpet T1 on the tires.

With leftover products I also did my wagon with CSL on the paint topped with Skin the vinyl got EXOV3 just tyo see how skin and CSL work as a pair which if could be purchased separately would be my coating of choice.

Earlier this spring I did some testing of toppers on coatings and used CSL and a base coat on the drivers side and trunk lid with Mohs on the passenger side top. Here are a couple pictures I took at a little over 4 months of how clean each stayed. To me as far as being hydrophobic The skin is noticeable better even tho I haven't seen how EXOv4 does since I just used it last Sunday.

Test%20Hood.jpg~original

Roof%20Test.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow what a difference in the self cleaning ability on your test panels. The mohs+booster sections looks great in that expect. And the Syncro sure has some great water beading. But the sheeting properties don't seems to be as effective. Maybe you get away with it if you drive the car regualary so the beads rolls of. The self cleaning ability I see works best on LSP with a high sheeting ability.

To the OP I think you will be fine with either of gtechnic and Gyeon. Maybe Gyeon has a little bigger line of products. But with the chemicals you have them on par with each other.
 
Eldorado2k said:
Why does it look like your foam cannon is filled with skim milk instead of car shampoo? Is it supposed to be like that? If so, that’s a bit mind boggling. Maybe it’s just me, but I’d be frustrated to no end if my foam cannon worked like that.

I can’t get over the foam cannon part. Lol. What in the world kind of soap is in that bottle?
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I am pretty sure for that it had about 3oz of Gyeon Foam (my normal mix) and 6+ of Hyper-wash by looking at the color to try to get more foam. It was the first try with the PF22. The problems with having very hard water. My other canon does better but still leaves a lot of room for improvement. From what I have tried it seems the Gyeon and Angelwax foam.s do the best .

Here are the ones I have tried so far at different strengths.

2018-07-12%2009.35.17.jpg~original
 
Ancient1 said:
I am pretty sure for that it had about 3oz of Gyeon Foam (my normal mix) and 6+ of Hyper-wash by looking at the color to try to get more foam. It was the first try with the PF22. The problems with having very hard water. My other canon does better but still leaves a lot of room for improvement. From what I have tried it seems the Gyeon and Angelwax foam.s do the best .

Here are the ones I have tried so far at different strengths.

2018-07-12%2009.35.17.jpg~original
Click to expand...

What is your specs on the PW?
With only the chemicals and no dilution and the mix setting on the foamcannon to max chemical. You would get shaving cream thick foam. Since I asks about the specs on the PW. Is you might need a smaller orifice in the foamcannon. To get you a thicker foam.
 
It is rated 3100psi and 2.8gpm But my gauge it is around 2900 and drops to about 2500psi when rinsing with the white tip.

Here is a short clip showing the pressure.

[video]https://photos.smugmug.com/PW/i-T3ChjkT/0/65e54dd3/1920/PW-1920.mp4[/video]

There was dilution that was the aprox amount added to about 24oz of water.
 
Ancient1 said:
It is rated 3100psi and 2.8gpm But my gauge it is around 2900 and drops to about 2500psi when rinsing with the white tip.

Here is a short clip showing the pressure.

[video]https://photos.smugmug.com/PW/i-T3ChjkT/0/65e54dd3/1920/PW-1920.mp4[/video]

There was dilution that was the aprox amount added to about 24oz of water.
Click to expand...

Then the orifice is not the problem lol. It's about the specs I have too and I have gone up from the original orifice 1.25mm to 1.30mm orifice. But with your hard water I would not do that and keep the 1.25mm orifice on. Have you tested with either use some warm water or destilled water to the foamcannon bottle. With 3oz and about 24oz of is my useally mix. And with the setting on max chemical output from the foamcannon I get a nice foam that is not to thick or to runny. You can also have almost 1:1 dilution in the foamcannon bottle and play around with the chemical mix setting. The hard water is a PIA to get it foam up.
 
What about a product like the new Blackfire Foam Booster? Wouldn’t that solve the problem?
 
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