Harbor Freight DA Polisher - New

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Seems strange to me a person who is a "senior member" would be that rude.
I can say this, If I did own a lot of stock, I would not be posting pics of a used Camary! LOLOL
 
Nice write up!! About how much grease do you add????
 
I have just used the HF DA to apply a sealant to the surface of my hood. (To try it out) Using a 5" BP and the HF black pad also I have greased the HF thru the hole in the top under the black sticker. Put enough grease to reduce the noise. It seemed to be as smooth as my GG6. The HF pad fits on the 5" BP, I have other good pads from autogeek, but wanted to try the HF pads with a 5" BP
 
Please PM me the instructions.

I love DIY and decided to give it a try. I appreciate all the info in this thread. I did the conversion based on pics, but want to make sure I didn't miss anything. Plan on learning to do my own detailing with a DA polisher to make my black Camaro shine.

I used the 25% off coupon and got it for around $45. I didn't notice it on that visit, but HF also carries the red Sta-lube extreme pressure lube which is the same type I got from O'Reileys. The only difference is the O'Reiley version is in a small tub and the HF is in a tube. Took the DA apart and cleaned out all the grease I could with paper towels and q-tips. Packed it full of red grease and burped it after. Much quieter than it was stock.

I did the 90 degree twist to make the switch on top. I also picked up a black/red striped 50ft 16GA at Home Depot for $15. Had an orange for $11, but I liked the red because the DA has red on it. Used crimp on connectors (also bought at HF) and added solder and heat shrink tubing for good measure. Used pliers to pull ground prong off of cord since it's not grounded. Used my heat gun to melt the plastic/rubber around where the prong was and pushed the soft melted rubber into the hole. Makes it look a little better and ensures there is no illusion of the polisher being grounded.

I also ordered the Astro Pneumatic backing pad per the suggestions here. In addition to some MF pads and the Speedy surface prep towel (clay alternative) which should help my main objective of cleaning the contaminants and getting the swirls out using the MF pads.

Assuming I didn't miss any steps once I get the instructions, I have a DA polisher with a longer cord and better backing plate than the PC version for much less $$ :dblthumb2:
 
Please PM me the instructions.

I love DIY and decided to give it a try. I appreciate all the info in this thread. I did the conversion based on pics, but want to make sure I didn't miss anything. Plan on learning to do my own detailing with a DA polisher to make my black Camaro shine.

I used the 25% off coupon and got it for around $45. I didn't notice it on that visit, but HF also carries the red Sta-lube extreme pressure lube which is the same type I got from O'Reileys. The only difference is the O'Reiley version is in a small tub and the HF is in a tube. Took the DA apart and cleaned out all the grease I could with paper towels and q-tips. Packed it full of red grease and burped it after. Much quieter than it was stock.

I did the 90 degree twist to make the switch on top. I also picked up a black/red striped 50ft 16GA at Home Depot for $15. Had an orange for $11, but I liked the red because the DA has red on it. Used crimp on connectors (also bought at HF) and added solder and heat shrink tubing for good measure. Used pliers to pull ground prong off of cord since it's not grounded. Used my heat gun to melt the plastic/rubber around where the prong was and pushed the soft melted rubber into the hole. Makes it look a little better and ensures there is no illusion of the polisher being grounded.

I also ordered the Astro Pneumatic backing pad per the suggestions here. In addition to some MF pads and the Speedy surface prep towel (clay alternative) which should help my main objective of cleaning the contaminants and getting the swirls out using the MF pads.

Assuming I didn't miss any steps once I get the instructions, I have a DA polisher with a longer cord and better backing plate than the PC version for much less $$ :dblthumb2:

just go back to page 46.
 
I have found some cheap waffle weave towels. I bought a pack of 50 of 16x16" for $90. Good deal. Just google ERC Wiping Products, click on microfiber and scroll down.

Why would you want 50 Waffle Weave towels?? I only use one or two big ones to dry and entire car. I wouldn't want to use a WW to remove LSP or for that matter touch the paint when it's dry.
 
Hi guys. I purchased a HF DA Polisher and tried it out with the stock 6" backing plate and there was minimal vibration. My 5" Astro backing plate came in today and when I attached it, it wobbles a bit and vibrates quite a bit.. is this common?
 
Happened to me too after I did the grease swap/put on a new backing plate--vibrated like crazy--I forget what I did, but it went away after I fiddled with it.

Try taking off and re-attaching backing plate and also try a diff washer as well
 
Hi guys. I purchased a HF DA Polisher and tried it out with the stock 6" backing plate and there was minimal vibration. My 5" Astro backing plate came in today and when I attached it, it wobbles a bit and vibrates quite a bit.. is this common?


Nope, remove and add washer be carefull putting back on. sounds like it might be cross threaded and uneven causing wobble and vibration My astro plate is great. I also used all washers. I like a bit of distance.

@ NIPSIP ****** DO NOT MESS WITH THE WEIGHT*******

THE ONE THAT IS THERE IS FINE.
 
I have 3 different BP's and don't see the need to change out the counter weight.
I've read that if you use a DA for sanding then yes you should change the counter weight.



On all other DA units, if you change the size of the pad, you should change the counterweight. Is the HF unit different? I don't think so. The PC one fits.
 
I know I had a small issue when I went from 6 1/2 inch pads to 5 inch pads using my GG6 but it didn't take long to adjust to it.
Same when I switched to the 4 inch.



Nope, remove and add washer be carefull putting back on. sounds like it might be cross threaded and uneven causing wobble and vibration My astro plate is great. I also used all washers. I like a bit of distance.

@ NIPSIP ****** DO NOT MESS WITH THE WEIGHT*******

THE ONE THAT IS THERE IS FINE.
 
On all other DA units, if you change the size of the pad, you should change the counterweight. Is the HF unit different? I don't think so. The PC one fits.

Not so! The PC requires a counter weight change only if you purchased it as the sanding model-- on the polishing model from 5.5" to 4" to 3" no need to change the counter weight. The Griots does not require a counter weight change--use mine all the time with 6", 5.5", 4" and know of others using 3" pads. Never heard anyone changing a weight on a Megs PC. Even the Rupes do not require a counter weight change.
 
On one of my HF there was a problem...the BP would move up and down about 1/4" (L-R or up and down) the shaft was loose.

Returned for a new one ...all works good with a 5" BP or 4" BP,
without changing weight
 
Yeah I didn't need to change anything when switching to 5" BP. Worked better actually. No skip or drag and what not. Well I got some sta-plex EP lube from harbor freight cause I saw it and figured what the hell. In a tube for like $4. Now I'm sitting here contemplating on doing this grease mod. Just don't want to #### anything up if I do ill be upset. I mean if it ain't broke don't fix it right. But I really do want to do it. Just because it seems to be the smart thing to do. If it will run smoother , cooler, quieter. Why not. I know it's not necc going to do all that. But I can imagine that the original stuff in There isn't the best grease. I'm all about improving #### by mods.

Now hearing people saying there just adding the grease through the hole or whatever and saying its cool. Now isnt it not that great of an idea to mix the 2 grease together. I don't know but. If I do it id like to make sure I do it properly and not have to mess anything up for it work. If its simple enough as just taking backing plate. Red cover and 4 screws and clean. Then fine anything else. Frigging sillyness is just a pain.

Anyway. Hope that makes sense. But. If it really makes a decent difference ill do it. I mean obviously the vibrations and noise can def use a little love cause my bones can only take so much lol

Now since I got this #### in a tube. I don't know if I got a grease gun somewhere laying around either. How much n best way to make sure that its in there properly and not to much. Shouldn't have to be worried about any bleeding while working on a car right. But I get that burping should help with excess prior to working. Anyway. Sorry if I sound a little silly at the moment. I'm just blah and shot from all day working
 
Yeah I didn't need to change anything when switching to 5" BP. Worked better actually. No skip or drag and what not. Well I got some sta-plex EP lube from harbor freight cause I saw it and figured what the hell. In a tube for like $4. Now I'm sitting here contemplating on doing this grease mod. Just don't want to #### anything up if I do ill be upset. I mean if it ain't broke don't fix it right. But I really do want to do it. Just because it seems to be the smart thing to do. If it will run smoother , cooler, quieter. Why not. I know it's not necc going to do all that. But I can imagine that the original stuff in There isn't the best grease. I'm all about improving #### by mods.

Now hearing people saying there just adding the grease through the hole or whatever and saying its cool. Now isnt it not that great of an idea to mix the 2 grease together. I don't know but. If I do it id like to make sure I do it properly and not have to mess anything up for it work. If its simple enough as just taking backing plate. Red cover and 4 screws and clean. Then fine anything else. Frigging sillyness is just a pain.

Anyway. Hope that makes sense. But. If it really makes a decent difference ill do it. I mean obviously the vibrations and noise can def use a little love cause my bones can only take so much lol

Now since I got this #### in a tube. I don't know if I got a grease gun somewhere laying around either. How much n best way to make sure that its in there properly and not to much. Shouldn't have to be worried about any bleeding while working on a car right. But I get that burping should help with excess prior to working. Anyway. Sorry if I sound a little silly at the moment. I'm just blah and shot from all day working

Biatch its an easy job and well worth it with real effects. Id clean the cheap grease out for sure. But really not a big deal to scoop it out, cram new stuff in, and slap it back together - maybe :20 if yer handy. I advise a little loctite on everything to hold it tight afterwards and in fact i replaced 4 screws which were cheap chinese junk and started to strip the heads but thats just cuz im OCD about stuff.
 
On sale...


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